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Everything posted by judge

  1. They are pretty useless. When mine was my daily, I'd look at it as changing lanes. If something started to appear I'd just hold straight for awhile. The offender would usually pass or make room. When driving at night, I just looked for their headlight reflecting off the right dash pad. If it was lit up, I knew a car was in my blind spot.
  2. The last two entries are great advice. Also try one of those battery powered impact screw drivers(like Dewalt makes)(they look similar to a drill). The impacts should overcome the spinning nutsert.
  3. Mine broke there about 35 years ago. I welded the tab back on. It's been fine since.
  4. Either way, they are reproduced now.
  5. The doors are the outside pieces. Either all silver or silver and black.
  6. It looks like black bits to me. I'd think that the fuel is eating at the rubber. The E fuels do that.
  7. I use the acrylic fingernail materials. You can get black from Eastwood. It goes by the name Plastix. It works like a charm.
  8. I have used them on four doors. They worked like a charm. The joint being above the profile line, allowed plenty of relatively flat area to work it.
  9. Carolina, I've done the same with the rattle cans, when color matching the different shades of Wilmington white. I was surprised how well it worked. Then I cleared the affected parts for a matching repair.
  10. I have used armorall to rejuvenate Dashes and upholstery in the days when repo was not available. It took many heave applications (probably 50) and many months of soaking.
  11. Just had the same issue on my Expedition. Took the seat upholstery off enough to hand sew the pulled threads, also tied off the two ends of the existing stitching. Hemp cord, it's available in the craft store, it's for making jeweler, necklaces and such. The needle's are a standard number 1. I just reused the existing holes to restitch.
  12. I use body shotz. I think NPD carries it. Buy the $29.00 applicator if you can't borrow one. The assembly manuals tell you where it should be applied. I used Dupli-color bed liner prior to finding body shotz, it did well but not exact.
  13. I had the same experience as 72 H code. I was very pleased with the final product. I'm interested in the crack repair. What process and was the repair by one of the vinyl repair guys, or did you use a DYI kit?
  14. judge


    Welcome from Virginia. That Grabber Green is my favorite Mustang color.
  15. judge


    Welcome from the Virginia Coast.
  16. the priced one is good enough for a concourse car, I paid $40 for it, you can have it for that and add $10 for US shipping. The other one is free and add $10 for US shipping. Mark
  17. Larry, I'll have a couple of each. I'll put some pictures up tomorrow. Mark
  18. 1F562864 appears to be about the last Cougar made at Dearborn in 1971. And I'm thinking they ran production into August. So, I'd think your new block "1F561694" was for Summer production.
  19. Do you know what it came from? The number seams high for a Mustang. I think Dearborn vin's on Mustangs capped near 1F230000
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