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judge

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Everything posted by judge

  1. To remove the knob from any of the switch shafts, just clamp the shaft in a vise about 1/2" of the shaft and knob exposed, use a claw hammer to pry knob off.
  2. I use both. I spray the dark first, completely covering the part, then while it's still wet I mist it from about 30" away. I mist it in to get a variety of colors and textures. I have had good luck with the process.
  3. If you do find the build sheet. It will most likely be discolored or stuck in place with body sealer. Use oil and grease remover to release it. Afterwards, I use a baking pan with about a 1/2" of "oil and grease remover" to float out the stains. I usually let it soak several days. No need to force it loose, use care.
  4. They are the same between the two style hoods. It's easier with the hood off.
  5. Your upright and extender are the same on my standard grill 73. Can you post pictures of the end of the latch.? I may have all or part of the parts needed.
  6. I use a timing light to check for spark. I move it from wire to wire. If you have spark on some, you are getting someware. I believe it narrows it down your distributor cap, wires, or plugs. Cap check first.
  7. No. Headlight grounds would not make any difference. I'd follow the positive coil wire back to the switch. Probe the wire along the way, even with your harness work its still possible to have a poor connection. The more likely problem now I think is a wire connector not made at all or a block connection not allowing current to flow stepping through it from coil back will sort it out.
  8. I should have one in Virginia. I can't verify until next week. Out of town at a show.
  9. By supplying 12 volts to the coil and some plugs are firing, we are getting somewhere. If some fire and some don't. I'd suspect distributor cap or plug wires loose. Your main problem still exist though, that is the lack of 12 volts coming from the ignition switch. I believe the switch is adjustable-in that it slides forward and backward on the column. Here is what I would do. Put the red meter lead on coil +, put black on battery negative, loosen switch mounting screws, turn switch to run, slide the switch until you see twelve volts show up on meter, then secure the switch without moving it. If the twelve volts never shows. Respond back. We'll have to check wires. ,
  10. If I'm following properly your engine shuts off when in run position. This question applies to that issue. The point side of the coil is part of the grounded side. But at least you have the 12 volts on the + side. Let's be clear though. Are you saying that you turn the key to run, let go of it, and while not touching the key that you have 12 volts from the (red on ignition coil +, and the black meter lead on battery negative(-).?? From your first comment. It seems that the starter continued to run after it's energized.? Is that part functioning OK now.
  11. Sometimes when the large wire lugs are secured/tightened the post spins within the plastic housing of the solenoid. I've seen it a few times where it could have your symptoms.
  12. You can measure the distance on your inner quarter plastic cover. Measure from the panels bottom rear bolt mount to the slot in the panel where the belt comes through.
  13. It's a "Y" pipe for single exhaust. An ."H" pipe for dual exhaust. Check NPD catalog for detailed views.
  14. I insisted we drive my future wife's car from our wedding in 78. I didn't want my 73 messed up by well wishers. It was a good thing, the shaving cream stained her Mopar paint.
  15. There should be a number stamped in the front left foot under the solenoid. It's not the part number. But it can get you to it.
  16. For the hood with the air scoops. You should have the flat wire springs. They are the heavy duty version.
  17. I've seen the black ones at Carlisle all ford. I believe the Boss parts guy sells them. Usually run 20.00. I'll try to find the phone number. The name of the vendor was Semo Mustang. I've seen their parts on eBay.
  18. I believe they are Repo's available at NPD. Same for 351W, 351C and 68 on 302's.
  19. Fifteen years ago when dashes and quarters were not available my dash pad had a couple wide cracks in it. I ground down the high spots and applied regular bondo over a eight by twelve area. Sanded that smooth with 180 grit paper. After that it needed something to look similar to the rest of the pad. I used Dupli-color truck bed coating, it provide a nice texture but the difference was noticeable, with 180 paper on a DA sander, I sanded off the tops of the drop like profile of the coating. I sprayed it with a Krylon color then clear coated it. It turned out great. I showed it a few years at MCA without being noticed until I got a NOS pad. I'm sure the coating will work on your quarters. It dries hard like plastic.
  20. Trident1, I wouldn't let this flex freek you out to much. I've worked on many convertibles over the last thirty years and if it's not rusting you can deal with this. For one don't open or close the doors if the gaps don't look right, you will just be chipping paint. If you must open the doors you can jack up the front or rear to get the gaps back to normal before opening or closing the doors. Never adjust the doors when on frame supported stands. Have it on the tires if possible. You can use eight stands if you want to support it evenly. That would four on the rear near the spring mounting points. Two at front torque boxes and two at the frame near the radiator support. I use screw stands on the most rear and furthest forward because you can get precise adjustments with them to get gaps right. It can be difficult on ratchet stands.
  21. My dad had a 70 Thunderbird in the day. Your color appears to be the color of our car. I don't know they called it but if I were naming paints then it would have been "midnight blue metallic" it was real dark but distinguishable from black.
  22. I have a spare. Looks exactly like the above pictures. I'll do $20 including shipping.
  23. I believe the 65-66 cars adjusted their Caster by shimming the upper control arm. Perhaps you could add shim on the front bolt and push the top ball joint rearward.
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