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Everything posted by judge

  1. The front end is a separate piece. It's about 18" long-thats about 12" on the lowest vertical section, then it makes a 45° bend and runs about 6" until it fits into the upper section. They are the same on all models. Coupe, fastback and convertible all same part.
  2. I had the something happen on my upper control arm's grease fitting. Had all the same thoughts you mentioned. Replaced the zerts to cure the problem.
  3. Are you referring to the hole next to the light switch? It could be a park or belts light. Seems odd to have both on one car, but who knows. Could it be a park light socket?
  4. I have a nice set for sale. They are from a 71.
  5. Part of the VIN is stamped on the inner shock towers under the fender. And on the engine. You'll see year,plant,and consecutive unit number.
  6. That was pretty clever how you modified the front floor section. Sliding the ribs outward and using the outer piece as the filler panel. Well worth the labor, for the $ savings.
  7. I've done what EBStang recommended for many years prior to restoring. It worked very well. A little caulk helped hold it in place when normal service occurs.
  8. If you have a meter? I'd check primary coil voltage. Just make sure the power supply is there. 12 volts on starting then drops to 9 or so when in run position.
  9. When you say immediately. Do you mean as soon as you finish starting it and letting the key go? Or how many seconds?
  10. I see you both have Viper tires. Hope that's not normal for that brand. My experience has found that failures that circle the tire are from overheating (possible under inflation), and spot failures are from flat spots(sitting too long with car weight on them.
  11. I cannot open your link, but try NPD look up concourse hoses.
  12. If the belts are still not lining up, let's measure your spacer behind the alternator and bolt length. The front bracket merely hold the front firm. The belt alignment is dictated by what's behind the alternator. Also are the other pulleys and brackets factory for
  13. It goes in like the other plugs. Freeze it first to shrink it. It's half as deep as the other plugs so don't drive it in too far, just clear the edge.
  14. I checked TMI site and saw the panels you referred to. I took their part number and searched it. It came up in many places. One was CJpony the panels with that number were approximately $475 a set or so. I think the TMI site is advertising full retail pricing for vendor protection issues. I used Mustang Market panels on my last project and was satisfied with the results. There is another thread where many members have posted their opinions. Search for that.
  15. Are you running r12? A 40° evaporator should probably have 50-60° coming from the vents.
  16. You can buy it at Ace hardware for about $4.99. I've been buying it for years.
  17. You sound so sure. The sun is warming the car, the car is warming the air. He has to block the sun.
  18. I would think that you could use your bezel to hold the aftermarket gauges. I'm guessing the gauge face will conflict with the bezel cluster face.
  19. All the wife could say was " Oh God, how the heck did that happen?"
  20. The AC sounds like a good idea. I think that you need to block the sun also.
  21. I make staples out if stainless steel welding wire, drill two small holes every five inches or so. Push the staples through the twin holes. Fold them over tight on the inside. Paint the exposed flat side with black paint. I've seen many cars at shows with the rivits. If you use any screws make sure they are flat and can't hit glass when slamming the door.
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