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mcampbell26915

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    1972 mustang coupe 302

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    St. louis

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  1. Hey everyone! quick status report- I checked the transmission fluid level while the car was idling and it is overfilled a bit. I took a photo of the dipstick, and to see it just click this - http://tinypic.com/r/63rfok/9 It is kind of hard to see and the picture is a bit misleading so I added a red line to mark where the top of the fluid level is, and I added a blue line to show where the recommended fluid level should be. I also noticed some transmission fluid around and underneath the carbon storage canister, not sure how transmission fluid would get there but here are two pictures of that as well- http://tinypic.com/r/20i73pl/9 - and - http://tinypic.com/r/1079hfl/9 - that blue thing at the top of the photo is the canister, and all that wetspot is transmission fluid. It should be known that I did spill some transmission stop slip on top of the canister when adding it, and then I tried rinsing it off (which didn't work too well since its so viscous and oily). so its possible that the spilled fluid never got fully rinsed off and instead just spread further and found its way underneath the canister, which could be what we are seeing in that picture. I just thought I would include that though because that could be some sort of clue if it turns out that its not just spilled fluid. Don C, I couldnt find the vacuum line that you were referencing. I took a picture of the top-rear of my intake manifold and that can be seen here- http://tinypic.com/r/200bc5w/9 I circled the only thing coming out of the top rear of the manifold, but I don't think that line is it, but there are two other nozzles on that thing that are capped off (they have been capped off since I bought the car in 2013). The green arrow is pointing to the only other line that is near the rear of the intake manifold, but it isn't attached to the manifold itself so I don't think that is the one you were referencing either. So if you could help me a little more to find that vacuum line then I will definitely check it ASAP. Carolina_mountain_mustangs , would a leak in the fuel pump diaphragm cause all this smoke to come out of the exhaust and engine bay? The smoking didnt start until after I changed the oil and added the transmission fluid stop slip, so I would be really surprised if the fuel pump diaphragm happened to go bad the moment I changed those other things, since I didn't even touch any part of the fuel system. Hopefully the fuel pump diaphragm isn't leaking, I replaced the fuel pump not too long ago, probably 3 years ago and put less than 1000 miles on the car since. I also don't smell that strong of a fuel odor from the dipstick, if any at all. Fabrice , The smoke is coming from the exhaust as well as the engine bay. Its also coming out of the exhaust leaks near the muffler too, as you can see by the smoke coming out of the wheel wells in this picture- http://tinypic.com/r/2ynfo8y/9 What do you guys think? Thanks again! Matt
  2. Thank you all for your feedback! I just got back from Europe, and changed the oil today to VR1 20w50. (5 quarts) I drove the car around and after about 15 minutes it started to smoke again. it didnt smoke quite as bad, but definitely still smoked a good amount. I shut it down and waited 5 minutes and checked the oil level, which read around 4mm below the bottom of the "safe" line, so pretty low. This doesnt make much sense though because I added exactly 5 quarts of oil when I did the change. There might be a little over 5 quarts in there since there might be a little leftover 5w30 oil, so if anything there is a small bit more than 5 or exactly 5 quarts, so I'm not sure why it would say that the oil is low. I have never replaced my dipstick so I doubt that it is the wrong one, but I suppose it could be wrong if it got accidentally swapped with a different dipstick at some point, or maybe it got bent and is throwing the measurement off. I tried smelling the oil at the end of the dipstick to check if I can smell any gasoline, and I did get a small hint of gasoline odor when I smelled the dipstick. Should I let some more oil out even though it has 5 quarts, Or is it possible that its just burning off the excess 5w30 oil from the last oil change? Or could it be that there is too much transmission fluid in there after I added the trans-stop-slip? again, this car never smoked before I changed the oil to 5w30 and added the trans-stop-slip. I replaced the oil back to 20w50 and its still smoking, so that leads me to believe that it has something to do with adding the stop-slip. This still doesnt explain the low oil level reading on the dipstick though- or the slight gasoline smell on the dipstick. Sorry for the long post, I just want to be thorough. Thanks again guys!
  3. Thanks everyone for the replies! Looks like the consensus is just that I used the wrong oil (how could I be so naive?) I will replace the oil with 20w50 VR1 when I get back from my trip next week. Im sure that will clear up this mess, thanks again! Matt
  4. Hi all, I recently changed the oil on my '72 302, I read online that Valvoline Vr1 10w30 racing oil is the best oil for these older cars because of the zinc content, but I couldnt find any of that oil locally so I went ahead and used STP 5w30 instead. I read that that would be just fine to use in my car here in san antonio. While changing the oil, I noticed a pretty decent transmission fluid leak unfortunately. So after finishing the oil change I checked the transmission fluid level and it was a bit low. I added some Lucas brand transmission stop slip to top off the transmission fluid and hoped that that would slow the leak down a bit. After finishing the oil and topping off the transmission fluid, I did a test drive and it ran just fine, however after a few minutes of driving it started to smoke- A LOT. blueish white smoke came from everywhere once the car heated up; it came from the exhaust pipe, the engine bay, and even from the wheel wells. I looked under the car to see how it could be coming from the wheel wells and discovered that there was a pretty big exhaust leak which was dumping out that smoke. This car didnt smoke pretty much at all before I changed the oil and added the stop slip. I did spill a bit of the stop slip when topping it off, so I did expect a bit of smoke from it burning off, but there is so much and its coming from the exhaust too so I know it cant just be that. After the car ran for a while and still was smoking with no sign of subsiding, I noticed a clicking noise from the engine- maybe lifters. I decided to shut it off and post on here and figure out if you guys know what the heck happened. I am assuming (and hoping) that I was just given misinformation about the type of oil that would be ok for my car, and that replacing the 5w30 with the VR1 10w30 will somehow fix this issue. I read somewhere that adding too much oil can cause it to smoke because the pressure builds up too high and leaks into the cylinders and causes it to burn. However, after I changed the oil I measured the exact amount I took out and then added the exact same amount back in (5.6 quarts). The dip stick is showing adequate oil levels too, so I wouldnt expect there to be too much. Hopefully one of you has had a similar issue and knows how to resolve this, Thank you! Matt
  5. SOLVED the fast idle adjustment was way out of wack and so after adjusting that and some more adjustments on the choke and mixture screws its finally back on its wheels after almost 2 years of sitting. Thanks everyone for the help!
  6. I have a Holley 4412 500cfm 2bbl carb. I will go ahead figure out how to adjust those properly and then update again, thanks!
  7. Hey guys so its been a little over a month since my last post and Ive done a few things to the car in that time. I rebuilt the carb like we talked about and also replaced the ignition switch, neither of which solved my problem. then I cleaned the points with sand paper and then replaced the condenser and it fired right up no problem and ran well. the only problem was that it idled wayyyyy too high. I had the idle adjustment screw backed out really far (4.5 turns) and still idled way too high. my air/fuel mixture screws are backed out 2.5 turns as well. not sure what is causing this- maybe it could be a vacuum leak but I sprayed starting fluid around the base of the carb and vacuum lines and didnt hear the RPM's kick up at all, so Im thinking its probably not a vacuum leak. it could be an issue with the automatic choke. When I start it it sounds good and then when the choke opens up after 10ish seconds thats when the RPMs kick up way too high, and then when I put my hand over the choke plate and block some of the air from going in, it slows back down to a normal idle RPM, but as soon as I move my hand back off then the RPMs kick way up again. as always, I really appreciate any help you guys have to offer. Thanks!
  8. I just ordered a carb rebuild kit, so after I finish that in a few days then I will update again, hopefully that's the issue, but if not then it probably needed to get rebuilt anyway ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ as far as the coil goes- This is the new coil: https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/ignition-coil/duralast-ignition-coil/111849_576402_17367 The old coil was this: https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/ignition-coil/valucraft-ignition-coil/966579_576402_17367 I am not sure if either of those are good for my car, to be honest I just got whichever coil that the parts store said fit my car and didnt think twice about it. if those are bad coils then let me know and I will order a proper one asap. Ill go ahead and clean the points and replace the condenser as well. Thanks guys Ill update in a few days. hopefully it wont take too much more to get this thing back on its wheels :thankyouyellow:
  9. Hi Mark, thanks for your help. I did mention in the last couple posts that I did get it to turn over and run for a little bit but then it stalls out, no starting fluid needed to get it to fire (in reference to #1). as far as spark goes (#2), I just replaced all of the plugs so I dont see how they would be corroded already being only 24 hours old, so sandpaper wouldnt do much there. I'm thinking its a carb issue since its running way too rich. I think this because there are black deposits lining tailpipe and black smoke coming out. I also pulled one of the plugs and found that there was fuel on it. that combined with the constant smell of fuel whenever I try starting it laeds me to think it is running way too rich (possibly there is grime in the carb keeping the needle valve open). If that is the case then I think just rebuilding the carb would do the trick, or getting a new carb. would you agree with that? or do you think it is something else altogether. Thanks again!
  10. Hi 72HCODE, The fuel was pretty old so I drained the tank and lines last week and replaced it with new (87 octane, maybe shouldve used 93?) gas and replaced the fuel filter as well. So if there is an issue with fuel it would be from a gummed up carb since I havent rebuilt the carb in about 4 years. sounds like its time for a carb rebuild, or maybe i'll just replace it this time, and see if that smooths it out. any recommendations on 2 bbl carbs (preferably under 300 bucks)?
  11. Sorry for all of my rapid posting. I connected the ignition coil up properly and just tried cranking it more because it kept sounding like it wanted to start. eventually after cranking for a little bit I got it to start. it ran pretty rough for about 1 full minute (3 second periods of smooth running followed by 3 seconds of extremely rough running back and forth), and then it died. so now we are back where we started- runs for a little bit but then dies. could it be the points/condenser? gas, fuel pump and fuel filter is new, looks like its getting plenty clean gas so I dont think gas is the issue. while it was running I sprayed starting fluid around all the vacuum lines carb and intake manifold and the RPM's didnt kick up at all, so I dont think its a vacuum issue. leaves me with spark being the issue but I replaced many of those components and its still having the issue. could the timing have gotten messed up at some point causing this? or possibly the idle adjustment screws on the carb? Sorry if I sound like a noob! Thanks guys
  12. Firing order is correct, just checked it this morning. Tried turning it over again and it just cranks, occasionally it sounds like it wants to start but for the most part it just cranks without any firing. it cranks for a while (5 seconds) and then makes this loud clank then spit/cough sound and stops cranking altogether. after cranking for 5 seconds there is a strong gasoline smell, making me think it was flooded, but I didnt touch the gas petal at all while trying to start it. Same thing happened last night- I tried starting it, it cranked, stopped cranking after a while, and then strong gas smell. anyone have any idea why this might be? sounds like im not getting spark now because I at least got it to run (very roughly) before I replaced the plugs,wires distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil.
  13. Thank you guys for all of the replies. I ended up tracing the issue back to the wire connecting the solenoid to the starter, it wasn't connected tight enough. I tightened it more and it cranked right over. However, now I have a different issue, which is keeping it running. I was able to get it to start but it idled very rough and then eventually just died out. So today I just replaced all the plugs (.035 gap, which is the gap I found to be the consensus online for the 302) and the wires, along with the ignition coil, and the distributor cap and rotor. after replacing all of that, now it wont even start at all. I dont think I mixed up the firing order but thats the first thing I am going to re-check tomorrow. Feel free to help me spitball ideas as to why this thing isnt wanting to run smoothly (or at all). in the meantime Ill be troubleshooting and keeping you guys posted. Thanks again for all the replies. Matt P.S: There is a wire coming directly from the distributor leading to the ignition coil, is that wire supposed to be on the positive terminal of the coil or the negative? I forgot to take a note of which wire goes where before I removed them from the old coil.
  14. Thank you guys for the replies! Ray, the motor does turn over (with the help of the breaker bar by hand) but the starter will not turn over the motor because of the electrical issue, the starter just clicks. 73Pony, yes it is an automatic. I was not familiar with the NSS until you mentioned it. I just went outside to try to start it in neutral (full 100% battery) and it did the same "Click" sound as before, so I suppose it wasnt the NSS unfortunately. Don, I thought that may have been the issue as well so I went ahead and disconnected the ground wire and sanded down the surface that it was connected to until it was clean bare metal again and reconnected it. Unfortunately, it didnt help. any other guesses? I find it really weird that when I jumped the solenoid I was able to get it to make one turn, but after that one time it wasnt able to turn again even when jumping the solenoid a second and third time. Thanks for the help again, hope to hear back!
  15. Hello, I have been having a very hard time figuring out why my '72 wont start or even crank. quick back story, it drove fine until I stored it for 12 months without starting it or driving it (I know, big mistake). did a quick tune up 2 weeks ago (replaced fluids, drained and replaced gas, charged up the battery, etc) before trying to start it. I tried starting it after that and it just clicked. Not the typical fast paced clicks associated with a dead battery, but just one click sounding like it was coming from the starter. so thats when I began trouble shooting, here is what I have done so far: Tested the battery since it did sit for a year and found that it was holding charge. I also borrowed a friends new battery (730 cca) and saw the same results, so I dont think the issue is the battery. - Replaced the start solenoid - Replaced the starter - Replaced both battery cables and terminal connectors after doing all of this, I tried starting it and it still did the same exact thing- "click". So then I thought that the engine might be seized, so I got a 24" breaker bar and hand cranked the motor to make sure it wasnt siezed. It did have some resistance, it wasnt the easiest thing to turn, but it also wasnt that difficult either, it definitely wasnt seized. So just now I thought maybe the brand new starter solenoid I bought was defective, so I jumped it by connecting the two ends of the solenoid with the key in the "on" position. When I did this, there were sparks and I heart it crank one time (first time ive heard it crank in a year). But after that one crank, nothing happened even if I held them connected together- no sparks or crank. So I thought id try it again with a freshly charged battery so I charged the battery back up to try again and this time there were significantly less sparks when I jumped it and no crank at all, just a tiny bit of sparks and then nothing. I cannot seem to figure out what the problem is. Any help would be sincerely appreciated, I want to get this thing back on the road! Thanks in advance- Matt
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