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mcampbell26915

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About mcampbell26915

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1972 mustang coupe 302

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  • Location
    St. louis

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  1. Hey everyone! quick status report- I checked the transmission fluid level while the car was idling and it is overfilled a bit. I took a photo of the dipstick, and to see it just click this - http://tinypic.com/r/63rfok/9 It is kind of hard to see and the picture is a bit misleading so I added a red line to mark where the top of the fluid level is, and I added a blue line to show where the recommended fluid level should be. I also noticed some transmission fluid around and underneath the carbon storage canister, not sure how transmission fluid would get there but here are two pictu
  2. Thank you all for your feedback! I just got back from Europe, and changed the oil today to VR1 20w50. (5 quarts) I drove the car around and after about 15 minutes it started to smoke again. it didnt smoke quite as bad, but definitely still smoked a good amount. I shut it down and waited 5 minutes and checked the oil level, which read around 4mm below the bottom of the "safe" line, so pretty low. This doesnt make much sense though because I added exactly 5 quarts of oil when I did the change. There might be a little over 5 quarts in there since there might be a little leftover 5w30 oil,
  3. Thanks everyone for the replies! Looks like the consensus is just that I used the wrong oil (how could I be so naive?) I will replace the oil with 20w50 VR1 when I get back from my trip next week. Im sure that will clear up this mess, thanks again! Matt
  4. Hi all, I recently changed the oil on my '72 302, I read online that Valvoline Vr1 10w30 racing oil is the best oil for these older cars because of the zinc content, but I couldnt find any of that oil locally so I went ahead and used STP 5w30 instead. I read that that would be just fine to use in my car here in san antonio. While changing the oil, I noticed a pretty decent transmission fluid leak unfortunately. So after finishing the oil change I checked the transmission fluid level and it was a bit low. I added some Lucas brand transmission stop slip to top off the transmission fluid and
  5. SOLVED the fast idle adjustment was way out of wack and so after adjusting that and some more adjustments on the choke and mixture screws its finally back on its wheels after almost 2 years of sitting. Thanks everyone for the help!
  6. I have a Holley 4412 500cfm 2bbl carb. I will go ahead figure out how to adjust those properly and then update again, thanks!
  7. Hey guys so its been a little over a month since my last post and Ive done a few things to the car in that time. I rebuilt the carb like we talked about and also replaced the ignition switch, neither of which solved my problem. then I cleaned the points with sand paper and then replaced the condenser and it fired right up no problem and ran well. the only problem was that it idled wayyyyy too high. I had the idle adjustment screw backed out really far (4.5 turns) and still idled way too high. my air/fuel mixture screws are backed out 2.5 turns as well. not sure what is causing this-
  8. I just ordered a carb rebuild kit, so after I finish that in a few days then I will update again, hopefully that's the issue, but if not then it probably needed to get rebuilt anyway ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ as far as the coil goes- This is the new coil: https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/ignition-coil/duralast-ignition-coil/111849_576402_17367 The old coil was this: https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/ignition-coil/valucraft-ignition-coil/966579_576402_17367 I am not sure if either of those are good for my car, to be hon
  9. Hi Mark, thanks for your help. I did mention in the last couple posts that I did get it to turn over and run for a little bit but then it stalls out, no starting fluid needed to get it to fire (in reference to #1). as far as spark goes (#2), I just replaced all of the plugs so I dont see how they would be corroded already being only 24 hours old, so sandpaper wouldnt do much there. I'm thinking its a carb issue since its running way too rich. I think this because there are black deposits lining tailpipe and black smoke coming out. I also pulled one of the plugs and found that there was fuel
  10. Hi 72HCODE, The fuel was pretty old so I drained the tank and lines last week and replaced it with new (87 octane, maybe shouldve used 93?) gas and replaced the fuel filter as well. So if there is an issue with fuel it would be from a gummed up carb since I havent rebuilt the carb in about 4 years. sounds like its time for a carb rebuild, or maybe i'll just replace it this time, and see if that smooths it out. any recommendations on 2 bbl carbs (preferably under 300 bucks)?
  11. Sorry for all of my rapid posting. I connected the ignition coil up properly and just tried cranking it more because it kept sounding like it wanted to start. eventually after cranking for a little bit I got it to start. it ran pretty rough for about 1 full minute (3 second periods of smooth running followed by 3 seconds of extremely rough running back and forth), and then it died. so now we are back where we started- runs for a little bit but then dies. could it be the points/condenser? gas, fuel pump and fuel filter is new, looks like its getting plenty clean gas so I dont think gas is
  12. Firing order is correct, just checked it this morning. Tried turning it over again and it just cranks, occasionally it sounds like it wants to start but for the most part it just cranks without any firing. it cranks for a while (5 seconds) and then makes this loud clank then spit/cough sound and stops cranking altogether. after cranking for 5 seconds there is a strong gasoline smell, making me think it was flooded, but I didnt touch the gas petal at all while trying to start it. Same thing happened last night- I tried starting it, it cranked, stopped cranking after a while, and then strong
  13. Thank you guys for all of the replies. I ended up tracing the issue back to the wire connecting the solenoid to the starter, it wasn't connected tight enough. I tightened it more and it cranked right over. However, now I have a different issue, which is keeping it running. I was able to get it to start but it idled very rough and then eventually just died out. So today I just replaced all the plugs (.035 gap, which is the gap I found to be the consensus online for the 302) and the wires, along with the ignition coil, and the distributor cap and rotor. after replacing all of that, now it wo
  14. Thank you guys for the replies! Ray, the motor does turn over (with the help of the breaker bar by hand) but the starter will not turn over the motor because of the electrical issue, the starter just clicks. 73Pony, yes it is an automatic. I was not familiar with the NSS until you mentioned it. I just went outside to try to start it in neutral (full 100% battery) and it did the same "Click" sound as before, so I suppose it wasnt the NSS unfortunately. Don, I thought that may have been the issue as well so I went ahead and disconnected the ground wire and sanded down the surfa
  15. Hello, I have been having a very hard time figuring out why my '72 wont start or even crank. quick back story, it drove fine until I stored it for 12 months without starting it or driving it (I know, big mistake). did a quick tune up 2 weeks ago (replaced fluids, drained and replaced gas, charged up the battery, etc) before trying to start it. I tried starting it after that and it just clicked. Not the typical fast paced clicks associated with a dead battery, but just one click sounding like it was coming from the starter. so thats when I began trouble shooting, here is what I have don

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7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

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Founded:
July 2010

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