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aypsears

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Everything posted by aypsears

  1. Hi There give me a few days and I will get you a price for everything Thanks Aypsears
  2. FYI If your scrapping the car after parting it out. I would remove the fold down rear seat structure panels and bar welded on the trunk floor. if there are no speaker holes in them. located in picture these panels are hard to find with no speaker holes. Aypsears
  3. Hi there I am looking for the full year of 2012 mustang monthly magazines. also have other years I need all of 1979, 1983 sept. oct. nov., 1982 sept. oct.,1984 dec.,1990 jan.,1989 jan. feb. march, 1991 dec., 2002 may, 1998 march, 2011 dec. thanks if you have all or some let me PM me Thanks Aypsears
  4. Hi I have for sale a 1971-1973 mustang convertible or coupe rear trunk lid 150.00 local pick up or will ship. the lid is in good shape no thru rot two small dents on the top buyer pays shipping cost pm if interested thanks aypsears
  5. Hi I have a 1971-1973 original ford mustang ram air hood up for sale in great shape has a few small dents and one small patch bondo top side and a small patch of rust thru underneath asking 500.00 buyer pays shipping or comes to pick it up I have many pictures of the hood pm me Thanks Aypsears
  6. Hi I have for sale an original ford cowl drive side its in great shape will ship buyer pays shipping cost 150.00$ pm me Thanks Aypsears
  7. Hi has anyone installed a set of full quarter panels on their car. I was looking at it today. how to install it? there are several installations points on the panel such as the roof line, and quarter window area, door pillar area, and drip molding area. which area is first for the install? this picture is a quarter panel from dynacorn. it is just resting on the car. was looking at it early today trying to figure out how to factory install the item. any ideas would be appreciated thanks aypsears
  8. Hi I am in the process of replacing a ton of sheet metal in the back. Before I install all the new metal, I would like to sand blast and top coat the rusted areas behind the quarter panel. ( was thinking Eastwood epoxy primer after sand blasting or any other products). Any recommendations concerning primers or paints? If I use epoxy primer do I need to top that with a sealer. once the quarter is on I will not have no access to the area. Finally I would like to get this finished as soon as possible I live in CT cooler temps. outside means no painting very soon. One more thing I am using the entire rear clip on another car. I just prepping everything before the switch. Thanks Aypsears
  9. Thanks it took me awhile to finish it but it was a learning experience for me
  10. The numbers came out pretty close on the factory diagram however on the aftermarket diagram some of the dims where off. I am confident the unibody is straight. I wish the pictures where bigger so members can see the numbers in order to compare. it took me awhile because I measure every dims on the chart. but it was a learning experience for me. now my next car I will have a better understanding of this diagram and the dims. When I am done with this one I would like to buy a convertible
  11. Hi Guys just finished measuring the unibody to ensure it square. I decided to measure all dims. I was hoping for the picture to come out larger. but I guess it does not.
  12. That's going to look really cool keep up the great work. how much are you cutting down the body?
  13. Thanks everyone for there input I measured the unibody according the the factory dims came out square
  14. yea its been rough but I am learning as I go I plan on keeping the car since its been this far. thanks for your support
  15. I looked at my car today and said amazing how much crap I went thru so far to do it right. I am glad I still have it. 1971 Mustang Mach one 351 4v, ram air, power steering, power brakes, four speed, mach one interior, instrumentation group, conveince group, rim blow, rear spoiler, tilt wheel, center console, fold down rear seat, tinted glass, power windows, 325 limited slip rear end, am 8 track. options I am adding. rear window defrost, deluxe seat belts, a/c, magnum 500, side stripes. The car was 4600.00 new in 1971
  16. When I first started the car my uncle was there to help what he saw was dollar signs. the smart way to go on this vechile would have been a second body. when I started the car with my uncle it was 2006 I did not know any thing about body work, labor, cost and time. so I relied on his knowledge. my uncle left town in 2009 with a ton of my money and everyone elses. he left me a mess to deal with. our 2006 agreement was he would help me fix the car and teach me as I went. well what he did teach me some things but not the right stuff. in 2009 the car was some what done but the unibody was not right and the welding and fitting of the panels sucked. So i let the car sit for awhile. then decided to continue, I talked to local body shop who was willing to take the job on waited for them for about a year. they talked a lot crap gave up on them. so I talked with a second local body shop with a frame machine. he toke the job and repaired the unibody. He also told me the car need some more work on the panels. ie welding. oh boy I have come this far might as well as keep going. at this point do I give up and start over with a second body? or do I just keep going on the same body. at best I was screwed over by uncle. why I gave him money. Since then I have been screwed over by two other local shops in town. however no money changed hands just promises. One shop has stood by me and helped me along the way that's the frame shop. yes I have a ton of money tied up into the vechile so far however I will never sell the car I plan on keeping the car until I die. so I continue on with the build. Once I am done I should be a pro at weld repair panel aligiment. My next project is a convertible however I WILL NOT HIRE ANY FAMILY MEMEBERS. Finally the car is a 1971 m code mustang mac one with 19 options from the factory. I am adding five more options. In my opinion its worth saving
  17. Hi Guys been awhile I have been working on my car a lot during this pass year want to finish up all the panel fitting and welding. this week I have the car sitting on six jack stands level front to back and side to side. I am in the process of rechecking the the unibody to ensure its still square. I used the factory unibody diagram a tape measure and some hanging frame gauges. I plan on cutting the roof/rear structure off and replacing with a better roof/rear structure from a donor fastback. My roof/rear structure has a lot of damage and rot. so the best route is to replace. I already replaced all the inner fenders, shock towers, cowl and floor. The new roof and rear structure will provide a soild platform to weld new inner and outer wheel houses, tail light panel and trunk floor. By the time I am done with the panel fitting and welding the car will not have any rust any where. I been having a lot fun repairing this car. I have learned a lot that's for sure. keep up the good work I will post some pictures later Thanks Aypsears
  18. Thanks Q I just might come up to visit you some time in the coming weeks also looked at your photos of the trammel under the car. right now I have the car jacked up and I am using chief frame gauges. I have a body guy in town who has helped me in the past with this car. I was just trying to find out if anyone had an idea concerning those dims on the diagram.
  19. Thanks and yes you did shed some light on the subject. I want to check the car out for any type of damage
  20. Hi I am in the process of repairing a 1971 mustang fastback. I do have some questions concerning the Ford frame diagram. First I do not understand what the -10 located at the base line represents. second, the planned view contains dims as follows 47.88,20,42.50,62.50, If any of you guys out there have a explanation would be highly appreciated the rest of the diagram I understand. I have uploaded a copy of the diagram. thanks Aypsears. I also did a search and found the frame diagram posted by marks73 Thanks Mark
  21. I have no coupe or convertible trunk rod springs thanks
  22. Item is in good shape seams are good 100.00 Thanks pictures to follow
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