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kidwithfastback=fast last won the day on February 15 2014

kidwithfastback=fast had the most liked content!

About kidwithfastback=fast

  • Birthday 04/05/1997

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Fastback (Factory sprint, but now a bright red Mach 1)
    351c 2v(big ol cam, holley dominator intake, roller set, edelbrock 4bbl)



  • Location
    Brier, Washington
  • Region

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  1. Welcome from Seattle as well! Seeing a 71-73 mustang up here is so rare! I hope to run into ya sometime! Mines a Red and Black mach 1, feel free to pull me over:P
  2. Thanks all, turned out to be a wire I hooked up for my voltmeter was tapped off the accessory wire from the ignition to the cluster. I hooked it a week or so ago.. oops, didn't notice it was drawing all the power off of the circuit. Cut the wire, and bang! Gas gauge working again.
  3. I forgot to mention that I tested for power at the plug with the ignition on and it didn't show any power there. Interesting about the float, I'll check that. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  4. I went for a drive the other day and saw that my gauge was as empty as I've ever seen it. Naturally, I figured I was just out of gas (as usual) and went to fill it up. After doing so I realized that the gauge hadn't moved at all so I went ahead with some tests. I checked the connection at the plug to the sending unit...good. I checked the fuse that the circuit is on...good. Also tested for power on both sides of the fuse...good. I checked the gauge to see if it worked by jumpering the power feed to the gauges at the plug to one terminal and grounding the other side. The gauge itself functions properly. So I'm pretty lost on what it could be. I infer that there could be a break in connection somewhere before the instrument panel plug. Does anyone have a legible schematic for this circuit? Does anybody know what could be the issue? Thanks guys! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  5. Plus 1 to 4v. Procomp is priced so low it's hard to resist. But it is crap. Dizzy could be shorting to ground. Have you tried your old coil again? K
  6. I had one , never ran it. It was big as a barn inside, but all my research results were similar. Too big, no bottom at all, and was regarded as the bottom pick of the the many options for the Cleveland. Sold it for 100$ on eBay. Kole
  7. A collapsed lifter makes a heck of a racket. The long screwdriver to ear really helps isolate that kind of stuff. Good luck K
  8. Thanks Paul, most of the stuff i bought on ebay is for sale all the time for double or triple. I found if i just checked every couple days, it only took a few weeks for those kind of prices to show up. I have seen pedals, crossmembers, and z bars all sell for the same as I paid in the last couple weeks. If you are going the t5 rout, i think there is a pretty cool aftermarket cable set up that uses an add on pedal and dosnt need a z bar. It does need a later model bell housing that works with a cable clutch.
  9. kidwithfastback=fast Kole Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  10. I did this conversion on mine. The cranks on the doors work just fine on the rear quarters. They are not to long. Never had any issues with them. reproduction cranks for sale at oreilley's. Cheap. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  11. What you need, .. what I paid. Where I found em Tranny. 500 Cl Bearing,bushing, seal 60 O'Reilly auto Flywheel. 90 Jegs Flywheel bolts. 15 ebay Clutch kit. 100 O'Reilly auto pressure plate bolts 10 ace Bell housing. 75 CL Starter 35 O'Reilly auto Shifter. (Torino) 100. Ebay Block plate. 32 ebay Pedals. 150 ebay Z bar. 50 ebay Z bar felts, lift rod. 40 Ohio mustang Block side pivot 35 pivot Cross member. 35 motor city mustang Yoke. 35 motor city mustang U joint. 15 O'Reilly auto Shifter boot. 20 O'Reilly auto From the fmx Drive line, Speedo cable Transmission mount Bell housing bolts Crossmember bolts
  12. Well guys, I worked a few links out of the trans linkage, fabbed/ faked in a couple bushings, in the clutch link, bolted my seat back in, screwed down a handsome rubber flex around that that classic Hurst shifter....dropped it off the stands, and went for tool around the block.. Wow!!! What a transformation!!! I mean... Seriously, what a different car! Spirited!, even......Nimble!! Ok well for A 72 stang. But actually felt like a muscle car! That was worth the bloody knuckles. I would recommend to anyone. No comparison to an auto. So, to all or any of you going to do this... You are going to love it. Kole
  13. Extra room!?! Custom fab'd , and still barely room. Between the pitman arm, steering box, and bell housing, I'm almost surprised a four speed was an option! Big tip of the hat to Don at Ohio mustang parts, for getting me all those hard to find bits, and getting them to me quick! Did a little top loader prep just because. Replaced the input shaft bearing, tailshaft bushing, and seal. Also put in a new Speedo drive gear as mine was wasted from a frozen Speedo cable at some point. Added a half gallon of 90 weight, and snugged down the lid. the whole bit took maybe an hour. I put the drive line in before filling with oil, to stop a spill. I cut the gear end of the fmx Speedo off and used it for a temp plug. The rear seal can just be popped out with a big screw driver just levering it out. I split the bushing out with a slim screwdriver. Very soft metal, peeled right out. Drove in the new with a socket. Front bearing comes off carefully with screwdrivers in the keeper groove and another driver for a lever. Bearing, bushing, gasket set and seal were 65$. Spent a couple extra bucks for a really beefy throw out bearing. Mounted the bellhousing, hung the starter, converted by floor Jack into a red neck tranny Jack with a short chunk of 2x10 and a couple 2x2s, and slid that baby in there.. That was too easy! Then the shifter and linkage... Another doo over! Whole lot easier if I had mounted it to the tranny first! Slight oversight...was in big hurt to get it in. Oh well got it in eventually . The tranny mount from the fmx works fine with the toploader. The c4 crossmember also worked perfect. The stock fmx drive shaft also works fine. There is about 3/4" of float at the tail shaft. Of course you do have to use the c4 yoke. Also got the upper z bar rod today, if you are converting the hole is just to the drivers left of the steering column. So a few springs, a Speedo cable , bolt up some exhaust... Oobabkwy a couple other details... But I think this particular stang will be going through the gears by tomorrow afternoon!
  14. Ok, assembled and mounted the notorious z bar. here are all the pieces... The felt washer pops over the ball, with grease. Bedded the nylon shells with lots of grease keeper groove towards the Once in , place the clip in the two little keeper holes. I had to give it a whack with a mallet to get the clip to seat. Complete, bolted it to the frame first, then the engine bracket bolts up with the bell housing. I had to get a couple 2-1/2 grade 8 7/16 for the bracket mount / bell housing bolt up.
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