Jump to content

kidwithfastback=fast

VIP Members
  • Posts

    356
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by kidwithfastback=fast

  1. I went for a drive the other day and saw that my gauge was as empty as I've ever seen it. Naturally, I figured I was just out of gas (as usual) and went to fill it up. After doing so I realized that the gauge hadn't moved at all so I went ahead with some tests.

     

    I checked the connection at the plug to the sending unit...good.

     

    I checked the fuse that the circuit is on...good. Also tested for power on both sides of the fuse...good.

     

    I checked the gauge to see if it worked by jumpering the power feed to the gauges at the plug to one terminal and grounding the other side. The gauge itself functions properly.

     

    So I'm pretty lost on what it could be. I infer that there could be a break in connection somewhere before the instrument panel plug. Does anyone have a legible schematic for this circuit? Does anybody know what could be the issue?

     

    Thanks guys!

     

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  2. Kole

     

    Thanks for the update!

     

    You really got a great deal on some of those parts!

     

    I will go down the same road one day when I find a cheap T5.

     

    Paul

     

    Thanks Paul, most of the stuff i bought on ebay is for sale all the time for double or triple. I found if i just checked every couple days, it only took a few weeks for those kind of prices to show up. I have seen pedals, crossmembers, and z bars all sell for the same as I paid in the last couple weeks.

     

    If you are going the t5 rout, i think there is a pretty cool aftermarket cable

    set up that uses an add on pedal and dosnt need a z bar. It does need a later model bell housing that works with a cable clutch.

  3. I removed all the parts from one of my 73 coupe parts cars to convert a fastback to have rear roll down windows. $175 plus shipping from 68333 or best offer.

    I did this conversion on mine. The cranks on the doors work just fine on the rear quarters. They are not to long. Never had any issues with them.

     

    reproduction cranks for sale at oreilley's. Cheap.

     

     

     

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  4. What you need, .. what I paid. Where I found em

     

     

    Tranny. 500 Cl

    Bearing,bushing, seal 60 O'Reilly auto

    Flywheel. 90 Jegs

    Flywheel bolts. 15 ebay

    Clutch kit. 100 O'Reilly auto

    pressure plate bolts 10 ace

    Bell housing. 75 CL

    Starter 35 O'Reilly auto

    Shifter. (Torino) 100. Ebay

    Block plate. 32 ebay

    Pedals. 150 ebay

    Z bar. 50 ebay

    Z bar felts, lift rod. 40 Ohio mustang

    Block side pivot 35 pivot

    Cross member. 35 motor city mustang

    Yoke. 35 motor city mustang

    U joint. 15 O'Reilly auto

    Shifter boot. 20 O'Reilly auto

     

    From the fmx

     

    Drive line,

    Speedo cable

    Transmission mount

    Bell housing bolts

    Crossmember bolts

  5. Well guys, I worked a few links out of the trans linkage, fabbed/ faked in a couple bushings, in the clutch link, bolted my seat back in, screwed down a handsome rubber flex around that that classic Hurst shifter....dropped it off the stands, and went for tool around the block..

     

    Wow!!! What a transformation!!! I mean... Seriously, what a different car! Spirited!, even......Nimble!! Ok well for A 72 stang. But actually felt like a muscle car! That was worth the bloody knuckles. I would recommend to anyone. No comparison to an auto.

     

    So, to all or any of you going to do this... You are going to love it.

     

    Kole

  6. Extra room!?! Custom fab'd , and still barely room. Between the pitman arm, steering box, and bell housing, I'm almost surprised a four speed was an option! Big tip of the hat to Don at Ohio mustang parts, for getting me all those hard to find bits, and getting them to me quick!

    2e5jg4l.jpg


    Did a little top loader prep just because. Replaced the input shaft bearing, tailshaft bushing, and seal. Also put in a new Speedo drive gear as mine was wasted from a frozen Speedo cable at some point. Added a half gallon of 90 weight, and snugged down the lid. the whole bit took maybe an hour. I put the drive line in before filling with oil, to stop a spill. I cut the gear end of the fmx Speedo off and used it for a temp plug.

    The rear seal can just be popped out with a big screw driver just levering it out. I split the bushing out with a slim screwdriver. Very soft metal, peeled right out. Drove in the new with a socket. Front bearing comes off carefully with screwdrivers in the keeper groove and another driver for a lever. Bearing, bushing, gasket set and seal were 65$.

    w02h4p.jpg

     

     

     


    Spent a couple extra bucks for a really beefy throw out bearing. Mounted the bellhousing, hung the starter, converted by floor Jack into a red neck tranny Jack with a short chunk of 2x10 and a couple 2x2s, and slid that baby in there.. That was too easy!

     

    Then the shifter and linkage... Another doo over! Whole lot easier if I had mounted it to the tranny first! Slight oversight...was in big hurt to get it in. Oh well got it in eventually .

     

    The tranny mount from the fmx works fine with the toploader. The c4 crossmember also worked perfect. The stock fmx drive shaft also works fine. There is about 3/4" of float at the tail shaft. Of course you do have to use the c4 yoke. 8we2qp.jpg8we2qp.jpg


    Also got the upper z bar rod today, if you are converting the hole is just to the drivers left of the steering column. So a few springs, a Speedo cable , bolt up some exhaust... Oobabkwy a couple other details...

    But I think this particular stang will be going through the gears by tomorrow afternoon!

    30vlv86.jpg

  7. Ok, assembled and mounted the notorious z bar. here are all the pieces...

    2quudl1.jpg

     

    The felt washer pops over the ball, with grease.

    27yyafp.jpg


    Bedded the nylon shells with lots of grease keeper groove towards the 2dl1a0z.jpg

    Once in , place the clip in the two little keeper holes. I had to give it a whack with a mallet to get the clip to seat.

    14w7x2v.jpg


    Complete, bolted it to the frame first, then the engine bracket bolts up with the bell housing. I had to get a couple 2-1/2 grade 8 7/16 for the bracket mount / bell housing bolt up.

    2qs6vec.jpg

  8. Thanks guys! And I think you're right kid...

     

    I've been doing some research and I think these are all the parts required and this is the best set up for me:

    - Edelbrock 2750 intake - http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2750/10002/-1

    - Intake gasket kit - http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/210205/10002/-1

    - Edlebrock 1411 750cfm carburetor - http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1411/10002/-1

     

    This brings up a few questions though.

    - Is this all I need to complete the conversion?

    - Will this make my set up taller? I have zero additional clearance room (see pic)

    - Any other things that might be an issue with going this route?

     

     

    Many thanks!

    I have done this three times, between, rebuilding engine, and experimenting with dual and single plane manifolds. I would ad a couple "tips"... Pull your distributor. Makes it a lot easier. Be patient prying the manifold off. Work your way around with a stiff putty knife. Carefully tuck a shop rag all the way around the valley to collect all the little bits of gasket and rtv from your heads and valley ends. Use a razor, and clean the surfaces with laquer thinner or acetone. Really take your time withe rtv when you outline the pan and gasket! put a dab in each corner where the head meets the block. There are two curved rubber strips that seal the ends of the valley.the dab of rtv goes right where the rubber strip meets the intake gasket. I think the only way you can really screw up is to not get a good seal. Put the pan in first by itself. There are to little alignment pins in the heads. They will hold the pan down in place, while you install. Start all your intake bolts, before you snug em up......I had no clearance problem, and I also have the ram air.

     

    K

  9. IMG_2743_zpsoddazhcs.jpg

    21kwgtf.jpg

    Yep, those are those pretty stainless ones I was looking at the other day. OBX?

    They are virtually the same pattern as mine. see my grubby old ones to compare....I would suspect they won't work with a Z bar. A good exhaust shop could modify them as I did, ( except better of course) you could show them what I did. Really not that hard. Or you could return them and get a set of Hedman 88220's. Not stainless, but only 225$ at jegs.

  10. I'm concerned my new headers will interfere in some way with the clutch linkage. I will not know until I perform the engine swap in a few weeks.

     

    Yea, I really couldn't tell until I actually mocked up the bell housing with the z bar. Then it was real obvious. There are two basic designs being manufactured that I could find. Most are almost identical to mine( not good unless you want to mod them like I did. Hedman makes the other pattern I have seen and they clear fine. You can tell by the extended length of the tubes in front of the collector. ( they also claim it in there ad.)

    If you post a pic or a link, I can probably tell you whitch ones you have.

     

    K


    IIRC, the starter nose is different on a manual versus an automatic, just an FYI in case you hadn't prepared for that. I recall having to change my starter.

     

    Thanks Dave, I did find that out just recently. Got one one the bench waiting. Hopefully going in tomorrow. Took the day off and went the northwest nationals drag races.. my ears are still buzzing.. That! Is horsepower!

    K

  11. I used an edelbrock carb. Cheap and very easy to tune. I used a manifold I bought for 75$ on eBay, for two barrel heads . You need the gasket kit that comes with manifold gaskets and an aluminum pan/ shield and a little tube of rtv. Standard for 351. about 25$ Make sure manifold, and gasket kit are for the two barrel heads. You will like the secondaries of the four V ...trust me!

  12. For the money and challenges of a four speed, you may as well go to a five or six speed. For the linkage, I would consider changing to a hydraulic clutch with a hydraulic release bearing. That eliminates all of the linkage and header clearance issues. It would be easier to round up the parts needed too.

     

    Yea, I'm sure your right, but I have a good toploader already. I would go hydraulic, but then you have all the hydraulic pedal install stuff to deal with. I considered a cable set up, but it seems no one manufacters for a 1972 bell housing. a lot of my decision to do this was the simultaneous failure of my second Fmx, and running into most of the parts cheap. I think the whole thing may set me back 1400$

    5d78es.jpg


    A little zap or five5v6i48.jpg

    And drill it back. also ground a radius at the front to help clear headers.That saved 245$....well i paid 50$...35d94wn.jpg


    Mostly just easy today...tap in a pilot bushing..

    1okj2r.jpg


    Hang the flywheel...billet 90$ at your door from Jegs. I know it's offshore... But....you can't screw up a flywheel!...I hope.. maxaw8.jpg


    Block plate eBay.. 32$, clutch, pressure plate, throw out, and pilot Bush , O'Reillys. 90$

    10mqx6e.jpg

  13. Well... I think it's going to work! ...at least as long as my amateur welding holds up. Did some grinding to pretty up all that boogerwelding...I used an 18" piece of exhaust pipe I got at perilous, for about 12$ . I cut it up with a sawzall, and then did some grinding and fitting. I don't think I lengened any of the tubes, as I added about as much new tube as I cut out. Time to start turning bolts starting with the block plate. I'll take stage by stage pics going forward

     

    .spxirp.jpg

  14. Well day two...

     

    Mounted the frame side pivot ball, with a couple bolts, mounted the bell housing temporarily so I could also mount the bell housing side pivot.

     

    So got the z bar loaded with the bushings ...and slid it in to check the header clearance. Clank! Now

    why would a performance piece like exhaust

    headers not be built with a manual trans in mind??!!

     

    It was cool down there, I just lay there and stared at it. Well if I used a 3 inch push rod....maybe... Nope.

     

    If only the number 8 tube were 3 inches further forward..there is room.. would the to move the number 5 too.. or spend five hundie on a new set...


    So I'm cutting up headers, nothing to lose I guess, they aren't going to work the way they are, I'll post pics if I'm successful.... Or pics of new headers if I eff it all [

  15. Well, it's go time..

     

    Car way up on stands, dropped the drive line, headers, starter, linkage, cooling lines, Speedo, crossmember, unbolted the TC, and dropped that big choady monster on the floor. Yea, and mopped up at least a quart of that Damn sticky red stuff.

     

    So! On the fun stuff. Went after the pedals first. That was a sixty eight cuss word job. Not meant to come out. It will.... But not happily. Got to drop the steering column on the floor.. take out the front seat, you'll be laying on your back for a while longer than you expect. Take out the four bolts holding the column, then the four through the firewall/ brake booster.

    Take off the brake pedal from the plunger, then pull pull the through bolt pivot for the pedal. It ain't comin out with that on there. ( ask me how I know.

     

    Now...for the really bitchy... You have to remove the tinwork that holds the main green fuse block, just to the drivers right of the column... The assy. Ain't comin out with that on there...ask me how I know...two 3/8 bolts..no biggie if your hands are the size of an eight year old...well maybe even then.. pulled the radio, to get one, the other is a 1/4 inch ratchet job one little ticky at a time..go to your happy place...hum a little song.... Ok, now weasel that thing out.


    So some one suggested you could use the old auto pedal bracket. No way, the clutch pedal bushings are factory swaged in. So I polished up all the journals on the brake and clutch pedals with some 600 grit, and put the to better for a good polish. Coated all the journals with some litho white, and a little for each plastic bushing. Did a test fit up on the bench.

    So I thought, don't want those pedals mounted til I get the bracket back in over the steering column and back in place with a bolt or two. So...back in ...thats another six dozen FU! But hey it's ok we are making progress. Head crammed in the foot well, column on my belly, flashlight in my teeth rusty chunks of some kinda crap in my eye. got the nuts on loose, now for the fuse block tin. Yep that was still fun. . So all going good... Well.....not quite as good as I was thinkin. The brake goes in fine, but the clutch pedal won't clear the heat duct to slide the 4 inch shaft sideways.... So un bolt the heat duct, whater they seal it with in 1972 is crumbly crap to blink out of your eyes. Ok, so now... No, it still won't go in, the duct mounting stud is in the way, bend it with the vice grip tap in the clutch pedal.. looks good now to get that spring in there.....

    Yea, that spring....it don't wanna, and you can't even see where it's supposed to seat. Into the vice and welding rod wrapped through to hold the spring collapsed. And shot it off the cabinet, and shot it off the car, @#$#&%+@#! That was ridiculous!

     

    That spring took an hour and a half and a year off my life. Moral of story! Whatever you do, mount the clutch pedal on the bench!!!

     

    Tomorrow the z bar... That should be easy!

×
×
  • Create New...