MikeGriese

Do you have more white seat hinge covers? Seatbacks?

Is it inside out?

They are the front turn signals/running lights.

Bearings should last a lot longer than a year. Are you sure your hubs are ok?

There really shouldn't be any movement. Might be ball joints, or depending on age, the bushes on the upper and lower control arms, or maybe even loose lugs.

Phillips head screw behind a stick-on cover. You will likely crease the cover when you remove it, so you may want to replace it.

Got a color printer? Use Adobe to print it poster sized, then tape the sheets together.

Well now I'm curious to see if I'm missing a clip...

I have never seen a clip like that on any Mustang. All of the fuel and brake line clips I have ever seen on cars or for sale have been fastened to the car with bolts.

I have. It's not bad. It is pretty helpful when you have a specific circuit you are trying to debug.

I think your assumption is correct.

When making substantial changes to a wiring harness, I like to document everything about the harness I am changing and the donor harness to make sure that 1) I understand how the harnesses are put together and 2) that I don't miss anything. There is nothing worse than getting everything routed, installed connected and then find out you are missing one or two critical wires and have to undo a bunch of work. I use a tool called RapidHarness. Its purpose in life is to design and document wiring harnesses for production use, but works well for this kind of stuff. There is a free version that has some limitations in terms of connection counts and diagram counts, but should be plenty for what you want to do. You can track connectors, locations, wire gauge, wire color, connector color, length (if you want to get that detailed) and a bunch of other stuff. I like it because I can figure everything out on paper first before I unwrap anything and start pulling wires. If you go this route, I have already created a library of connector shapes that I'd be happy to send you.

If only...

That would be great - thanks!

You will want to replace both the pins and the bushings. There is no reason not to do both parts - once you have the pins out, the bushings are easy.

Not too bad. There are kits that have the bushings and pins, and plenty of youtube videos showing you how to go about it.

It does look like there is room for the cable to go under the dash frame behind the center dash panel. I'm not sure you can fish the connector through without taking the center dash panel off.

The electrical assembly manual from Jim Osborne makes it look like the cable runs along the inside of the center dash, under the main dash top. It appears to emerge to the side of the lamp itself. Not sure if that can actually happen, but I have a complete dash hanging on the wall I can take a look at this evening.

How much pitting is on the tiedowns? I am interested.

You need to have your hinges rebuilt.

oh man this huuuurrrrts

If someone doesn't reply, post some photos of what you can. Particularly behind the dash and the front of the firewall.

Why oh why can't folks like you live in the midwest?!?

Unless you know your way around the brake system, buying a set is probably a safer route - assuming you trust the vendor to know their way around a brake system. As far as new vs. refurbished, if the refurbished parts come with a warranty, they are probably ok. Again - do they come from a vendor you can trust?

And bins - lots of plastic bins with lids so you can stack them. Organize parts by system, bag/label them, and put them into bins and then label the bins.