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Sydneydrumdr

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Everything posted by Sydneydrumdr

  1. American Racing 14x 8 alloy wheels after being restored. Next step is fitting the BFGoodrich tyres.
  2. Finally in the daylight and out of the garage. On a flatbed being taken to get a new exhaust system fitted.
  3. Hi fellow big horse folk, It's been a while since I've done any updates here, and I thought I should post a few pics of my rebuild. Here's a shot of the reworked 351C back where it belongs after a stint at the engine rebuilders, then a quiet time on the engine stand waiting for the big moment. This pic shows the engine in the painted body, with lots of work done since. I have a deadline fast approaching, so we're putting in the long hours till it's done!
  4. Hi guys, it's been a while since my last update on my 71 Sportsroof project and I now have some pics to show you what's been happening down here. The pics will explain a lot and show you the many hours we've been spending on the car and the results have been worth all the effort. These pics are about 12 months old now and I'm currently putting everything back together. Still a way to go yet but rebuilding the suspension and steering at the moment with all new parts. This forum has been my go-to reference for all my build questions - as just about every topic has been covered here.! I'm lucky that you all have been contributing your knowledge and experience so that the rest of us can learn and have confidence when we tackle the same problems. Thank you mustang brothers! I hope you like the progress pics. image hosting russia
  5. Don, You always seem to pull "rabbits out of hats". I'd be happy to buy the brackets shown. Let me know a price and shipping costs to Kurrajong 2758 Australia. My email is dave@drumdoctor.com.au Cheers and thanks again.
  6. Thanks Don Hey I have some Do you need both for the same car as The A is used on the dual 71 grille mount uses 2 The B bracet is the anged for center single mount Don Hi Don, I just pulled up this old post relating to 71 Mach 1 grille support brackets. I'm needing 2 of the A brackets if you have any in stock. Cheers, Dave
  7. Welcome from Sydney Australia. Great looking Mach 1. This is a great place to ask all those not so silly questions. You will learn we are all a bit crazy about these cars. Enjoy the ride! Dave::thumb::
  8. 2015 Has been a busy time in the workshop. Here is our Rambler Classic. It was an older restoration that was getting very untidy paint and the rust bubbles over the rear wheel arches was getting worse. We bought this car in 2006 for AU$3500. It has a 287 V8 with 2 barrel Holley carb and 3 speed Aussie Borg Warner auto. It was very straight and drove nicely, with a good interior and not missing anything! Virtually rust free apart from some small areas in the lower rear quarters and wheel arches. I met with a good friend who had just set up a new spray booth in his workshop after years of borrowing time in one at a local smash shop after hours. He agreed to help me with the prep and rust welding. We started one summer day after last Christmas here in Sydney and quickly realised that the old paint wasn't going to fall off like we first thought. The 80's two pack that had baked in the sun for over 30 years needed some chemical help to shift it. New screen rubbers and a new colour scheme, along with polished stainless trim parts, new front bar, taillight lenses, tyres, added sunvisor and Wimbledon White roof Pics show the project condensed down to a collage an then the final product below, on the way to it's first wedding engagement. [/size]
  9. Rats and mice love this hide-e-hole. Here's my version from some Sydney rats.
  10. Throw back to 1987 and here is the Mustang as it arrives at my place in Sydney. LH damage from when it was stolen off the streets of Los Angeles, taken on a joy-ride and badly side-swiped. An aussie corvette importer found this car in an insurance auction for me and arranged it's shipping down under to me in Sydney. Total cost at the time was AU$5300. Not a bad investment. The importer included some used panels to repair the damaged LH side. Here are a couple of pics taken during the LH rear quarter replacement.
  11. This shows the car at the moment. In it's new coat of epoxy primer.
  12. This car had been in a few accidents which meant it's had damage to just about every panel at some point. I bought it with accident damage down the LH side. The car came complete with good used panels including full LH quarter/rear fender ready to fit. This work happened in 1988 courtesy of a good friend who is a panelbeater. Between us we got the old damaged quarter off by drilling out factory spot welds and fitted the replacement rear fender, door and LH front fender. A new tail light panel was also welded in while we were at it. It then sat waiting for it's day to be reborn. Fast forward 27 years to 2015 and here it is. Body work in this picture above, started with the new inner apron near the battery tray and aligning some previous smash repair work. The engine bay was stripped of all wiring, brake lines, steering, etc to allow the small rust repairs around the heater hose inlets in the firewall, then to paintstrip and prepare for epoxy primer and eventually body colour in the engine bay. Internal rust treatment starts - thorough wire brushing with grinder wire-wheel then rust converter and grey epoxy enamel used throughout the inner panels of the car. External paint is removed with strip discs and chemical stripper. All old filler is removed and panels hammered smooth to minimise the amount of filler required. Lower quarter panel removed and filler near door opening stripped off to reveal some previous badly repaired damage. Nine inch diff is out to be rebuilt and old leaf springs probably going in the bin. New springs bushes shocks etc being fitted during re-assembly. The RH door card and lining had never been off the car! We did find some body filler on the door skin tho! Smash repairs short cuts! The door off and the door shut stripped with the wire wheel. This pic shows the shell on jacks. It was later lifted onto a rolling trolley frame to allow easy moving into and out of the spray booth seen in the background. Some annoying small rust holes in the rear floors meant we decided to fit new floor pans in the rear by butt welding them with the MIG.
  13. Thanks. I'm going for Nightmist Blue with white cobra stripes. I haven't seen one with this treatment yet. I want something in keeping with the marque but not just another Mach1 look a like. It will challenge some purists but hey. My choice. It's been 30 years since I brought this baby here. Shipping these days is in the order of AU$3-4k. Takes about two months, give or take a few weeks for loading and quarantine this end. Companies bring whole shiploads of classic cars on a regular basis. Some of your best vehicles are now here in Aus and NZ. Mind you, recent shipments are much harder to fill with solid, minimal rust bodies - we see a lot of cars that are rustbuckets and are only viable now that we have such a great range of replacement panels on the market to rebuild them. Thanks. The motor was tired and had a thick coating of sludge all over the rocker gear and heads. Pretty standard for this age car. I want it to be a warmed up weekend cruiser, so staying 2v but with head porting and bigger valves running hardened seats. New short skirt pistons and longer rods, balanced and running a mild street cam. Holley 4 barrel and Edelbrok manifold to get it back on the road, but looking at EFI options long term. Electronic coil and pointless distributor, headers with dual pipes. Keeping the C6 Auto but we upgraded the shift kit when it was rebuilt. Running A/C and power steer so hoping to keep it fun to drive.
  14. Hi guys, It's taken a long time but the work has finally begun on the car that I bought direct from Orange County CAL in 1987!! She has sat in varoius storage sheds and even under a tree - tarped of course - but I want to show you where I'm up to with this rebuild. Here is a pic of the 351 and C6 coming out. Taken about a year ago. Motor was the original tired 351C 2V and has been stripped down, machined and bored +.30thou", C6 has been tricked and rebuilt. Here is the new sheet metal being added to replace the rusted inner apron and battery tray. A new Dynacorn Mach 1 bonnet/hood fitted and even some new rims on the rear to see how it all looks on the car. Here is a shot of the rear in black epoxy brushed on to cover some bare metal exposed years ago. The 15x10 alloy Magnum rim is looking fat on the car. A new lower quarter panel will be fitted in place of this home-made repair panel fitted in the late 80's. The car is pretty clean with only small rust holes in RH rear floorpan and some in RH quarter. Sills and doors are solid and rust free. Here it is on it's way to the paintshop on a flatbed. The wire wheels look ridiculous but they got the car rolling for now. A new RH fender/guard fitted here too. I will post the next lot of pics showing paint prep soon.
  15. Post edited and moved to correct thread. Rebuild thread with pics!!
  16. Hi LA members, I've just arrived in town for a few days. My 2 kids are here on a school band tour and I'm tagging along. Is there anyone local who is free to swing past the hotel tomorrow Monday. Ive got afew things I'd like to get from California Mustang parts while im in town. It would be great to have a local show me their car and discuss lots of mustang issues. I've just spent 4 days in Seattle driving around in a 2015 Mustang ragtop. Nice car. Too bad i couldn't bring that to LA Thanks in advance. Dave.
  17. Fantastic work! Thanks for the detailed pics, truly inspirational!!
  18. Thanks for that bit of info. Strange casting flaw, looks like some projectile has blasted though and left this jagged hole. Sorry my photo link didn't work. The tinypic plugin looks like the go, but my anti spam blocker has left a blank area right next to the feild where you load the filename. Ahhh, computers!
  19. So I'm cleaning up my 351C ready to send to the machine shop, when out of the corner of my eye I spot this hole in the block casting next to the distributor mounting hole, in the valley/lifter area. The pic shows the hole about an inch diameter. The engine ran OK before I pulled it out, a bit of a lifter tick tick tick but I'm wondering if this hole is going to be a problem? Any thought welcome. Thanks gurus. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?pid=5998790802089011554&oid=104755388345436418907
  20. Thanks for the fantastic welcome you guys!! ;)
  21. Hey Greg, Great to hear from you. That sounds like a great way to go for a run and meet some new faces. We will aim for the Feb dates as we are on holidays next week. I look forward to checking out the 5 speed conversion and saying g'day too. Have a good NYE. Cheers, Dave
  22. Hi from Sydney. Just found this forum and it looks great so far. I run a drum and percussion repairs business and am a working drummer as well. I have a '66 AMC Rambler Classic as a weekend cruiser but my 71 sportsroof is about to get a whole lot of attention. I've had my Mustang since 1986 and it's been sitting in storage for most of the years since then - that's what happens when your work takes you away from your hobby. Well, it's time to get this old girl on the ROAD!! I have completed the bodywork phase and it's almost ready to start priming for paint. Luckily she was pretty rust free being a California car but with only 80,000miles on the clock. Just needed the usual taillight panel replacement as well as full L/H quarter panel due to some accident damage prior to being imported to AUS. I bought enough spare parts to convert the stock sportsroof into a Mach1 lookalike. I'm not too worried about showing the car or keeping it original factory specs, I just like the look of this model with some Mach1 added styling. These cars are pretty rare down here so I want to build it into my own take on the 71 fastback - not to win trophies, just to drive it and enjoy it's rare shape on our roads. The 351C is out and pulled down. Can't believe how much crud was in the valve covers and around the rockers. Heads are cleaned and in the machine shop getting new valve seats and stem seals. The block and bottom end has very little wear so it looks like a hone and new rings, bearings, maybe a mild cam and new lifters etc. No racing engine mods required so the 2V set-up will work fine. The C6 came out as well and what a monster it is! For years I assumed it had an FMX auto from factory (most Aussie 351C had FMX boxes behind them, and these seem much smaller and lighter) but then I found out that C6 was the norm in these Mustangs. Not sure if I want to fit that huge trans back in, thinking of going to the Tremec 5 speed and making this a manual/stick shift car. Suggestions are welcome at this point!! Anyway, the sandblasting cabinet has been busy with all the engine brackets, bonnet hinges, anything that needs to be satin black again!! The spray gun will get busy soon too, seeing it's summer here and the drying time for satin acrylic black is about 5 minutes! Some Ford blue on rocker covers and other engine parts will be next. Suspension and brakes too are getting the strip down and rebuild. I've built a workshop just for the mustang so most of this work is tackled at home. Probably hire a spray booth at the local auto body shop when it's time to get the body colour in the gun. Over the years I have changed my mind several times about which colour to paint her. Being white originally didn't really inspire me, so sorry to those who own white mustangs, plus I didn't want the boy racer RED either. I have settled on silver with the blacked out bonnet and black sidestripes. Classy and catches light and shadows nicely. Black interior. I haven't seen 71-73 in this colour scheme around the roads/shows etc here in Sydney. I look forward to chatting with you guys who I'm sure will teach me a whole lot of great stuff along the way. Thanks, Dave
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