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    1971 yellow Mach 1 ram air 351c traction loc 4 speed. Ordered new from the factory in April 1971. 74,000 miles, in excellent condition. Going through complete engine rebuild only to increase horsepower, not because it needed it. Should bring 430 to 450 hp upon completion.


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    Coal Valley, Illinois
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  1. After several years between working (now retired) and other projects, I have finally finished the Mach 1. I have posted before, all the upgrades I did. I originally ordered this car from the factory in April of 1971, so It was in good shape to begin with before the rebuild. Being 21 at the time, it was my first new car. I've posted some questions in the past and have always received helpful responses from all that answered. I'm working on my next project now, a 427 Cobra build, so I'll be signing off of this forum for quite some time. I just wanted to share these photo's and say thank you to all folks that have responded to me in the past and to a great forum. FYI, I'll post a video of it running in the video forum. Cheers
  2. First, when you installed the RAM diaphragm clutch, did you REMOVE the heavy assist spring that was supposed to take pressure off the pedal load? If you did not, it's a bitch to do, but can be done. I did mine by removing the dash top, shielding the wiring and cutting through the spring with a dremel and cutting wheel. There is a ton of pressure on this spring so be very careful. The other way of course is to go in from under the dash and remove the bracket. BE CAREFUL!!!! Also there is a bump stop that you can adjust or set up. You can use a hood bumper stop as has been suggested elsewhere. In my case I actually purposely set my pedal higher, short legs and all! Another good thing to do is to replace the plastic bushings with bronze and add ball or roller bearings on the clutch shaft. Mustang Steve makes a kit as does Scott Drake. Requires total removal of the bracket, welding in the bearing retainers, but well worth it in the end. That reduced the effort on mine by at least 30%. I have the details on the bronze bushing I used, but not at hand right now. See attachment. Thanks Stanglover. The culprit is probably the stop height adjustment. I will check that as soon as It's out of my paint shop. So much masked off, I can't get back in the car !!! lollerz
  3. Hi guys. Been awhile since I posted a question, but here's a goofy one. I haven't driven the Mach 1 in a long time, as I have been rebuilding the entire car. This is a top loader 4 speed. I installed new Ram clutch assembly and all is good, EXCEPT... The clutch pedal seems like it sits too high before depressing it. I have adjusted the clutch per specs, but it just doesn't seem right... and since it' been awhile, like I mentioned, I don't remember how high it originally was. Anyone have any ideas, OR would someone be kind enough to measure their pedal height for me? Lowest part of the pad to floor. Thanks a lot for any help.
  4. I had the alternator rebuilt on my 71 351c. I bought a new regulator and installed that also. I was getting no charging, so I thought perhaps I had inadvertently hooked up the alternator incorrectly and caused a problem. Had the alt. checked and it is fine. Now I didn't polarize the regulator before using it, like I used to have to do with older vehicles that I rebuilt. Does this regulator need polarized? If so, what terminals would that be? Don't know if it should go to field or stator. If it doesn't need polarized, going to assume it's just a defective regulator. This isn't my regulator, but it would be the same tab configuration. I just found this online. Thanks for your help.
  5. No, no traction bars. I really don't want to change the handling characteristics. That's why I'm kind of leaning towards the leaf spring change.
  6. Has anyone used lowering blocks for the leaf springs? The 71's always seemed to be high in the front. I have lowered the front by 1" or more, but I want to get the rear down. I have 15's on it, but looking at it from the side, there is too much space between the tire top and the fender arch. I want to come down 2", and then probably will have to readjust the front to give it a level look. I see there are 2" lowering blocks, but not sure how well they work. They are certainly a lot less expensive than 2" lowering leaf springs, but I don't want to buy some junk that doesn't work. When I ordered this car back in April of 71, I just got the 14" wheels that were standard. That's why I put on 15" wheels now to help fill the space, but that obviously only helped by decreasing the gap by 1/2". Thanks for your thoughts.
  7. Minimal compression ratio drop does not have as big of an effect on power as you might expect. I ran both numbers, 10.7 and 10.1 and it was minimal. If I remember correctly, it was less than 5 hp. Now dropping by a few points would be a considerable drop as you allude to, but not dropping only a few tenths. All of the performance parts that are added more than made up for the small H.P. decrease. Dick
  8. Yes...it is tickled a bit !! First however, per our discussion a few days ago, I attached the ground wire properly to the alternator case from the picture you sent. Happy to report...it works !! The engine was not worn out. I ordered this car from the factory in April of 1971 ( I'm an old guy ) so it has never been abused except for an occasional street race. The only thing worn I could tell were the cam bearings. I was dropping oil pressure at idle but it would come back to normal when rpm's increased. That is kind of a telltale sign on Clevelands that the cam bearings are worn, although it could have been rod bearings or oil pump. Anyway, the lower oil pressure is what got me started: Bored .030 over to 357 C.I. Balanced and blueprinted. New pistons, same configuration as stock, rod, cam and crank bearings. High flow oil pump. Cam Research .540/.560 cam. Cam Research only grinds Ford cams. Scott Main raced Clevelands back in the day successfully as Super Stock champion. He knows that engine very well. All of their cams are custom ground so I told him what I was doing to the engine and where I wanted power in and out, and he ground the cam. Highly recommend Cam Research. Edelbrock Performer intake, 670cfm Holley Street Avenger. Need nothing larger for street, it would just be a waste of gas and I'm not racing anymore anyway. Hooker ceramic long tube headers. A little head work, new valves springs, etc. Had the compression chambers reworked a little and dropped compression to about 10.1 to make it a little easier to run the 93 octane crappy gas now available. This engine in 1971 was spec'd for 98 octane gas and it would knock and ping on anything less. I think that's about all....at least that I remember. Ran all the numbers through my computer dyno software and it came back at 463 hp and 432 lb/ft torque. Now that is theoretical horsepower and torque, and probably would not do that in actuality. However it sounds extremely strong, so whatever it is, it's considerably more than the 285 factory spec. ;) Thanks for the interest. I appreciate it. Dick
  9. Well done !! I was looking on google images before I posted..never did see this picture. Good job.
  10. Thank you all. You guys are the best. Went in the shop this morning and pulled the alternator. Sure enough, I had mounted the black T shaped piece to the STA. terminal. The other 2 wires are correct, so I was evidently not getting a ground. I do have a tach., all gauges and no warning lights. I took a picture of the back side and was going to post it if necessary to show what alternator I have, but Vinnie beat me to it. That is an excellent picture showing how it all hooks together. Hope you didn't take that all off your car just to take a picture . lollerz That should somehow be posted somewhere, somehow on this site, just as a show and tell picture. Thanks again everyone. Dick
  11. When I removed the alternator, I made a quick diagram showing where the wires attached. Red connector to the post with the red plastic base, orange connector to the post with the black plastic base. Where does the one attached to the black T shaped plastic piece go? I think that is just a ground going to one of the case screws, but didn't note that. I had the alternator rebuilt and they put on and tightened all new nuts....so there was no loose nut showing me where it came from. When I attached it, I saw that there was another post on the back, think it was stat. Thought that's where it went, but I'm getting no charge. Can someone help please. Thanks in advance.
  12. Success!!!!! Thank you so much Me ZapU. I am attaching a picture, just for reference purposes, but I pried evenly, 180º and the blocker ring came away from the gear pretty easily. I was a little nervous about prying too much before, until you said to do it. Everything looks good. There was always plenty of gear lube, so it's always been well lubricated. I was never hard on this tranny, so I don't believe anything is hurt. How it got stuck in 4th, I'll never know. When I moved it from my garage some time ago out to my shop, that's a 150' drive that never came out of 1st gear. Then, I backed it into the shop and shut it off. :chin: I have turned all the shift levers several times and all the gears and neutral lock in and operate smoothly. Thank you all that offered suggestions. Rocket 366, Stanglover and MeZapU kept sticking with me to try and work this out. I appreciate you guys. :bravo:
  13. Excellent. Thank you. I will take a picture tomorrow. I took one today, attached, with the the shifter fork as far to the left as it will go. You can see that it won't engage any further than that. I will post a picture tomorrow with the fork all the way to the right, engaging 3rd gear, so that you can see the issue. Thank you for any help you can give me. ui uploader
  14. Just re-read this. I cannot hold the input and turn the output. They both turn together when all levers are in neutral. I'm stumped. Taking it to a repair shop.
  15. I hate to say it, but do you have a good manual transmission guy nearby? It's not quite the same issue that I had on mine, it was just rough shifting. A rebuild with new syncro's, bearings and seals solved that issue, just cost me 500 bucks cash. I do believe you are absolutely correct. There are a lot of them around. Think I'll be calling a few come Monday. Have a great weekend.
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