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73StangJK

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    73 Mustang Convertible
    351W, Tremec 3550

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  • Location
    Lubbock TX

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  1. I got my standard ram air hood from US Body Source way probably 12 years ago. I'll get some pictures of it for you tonight. http://www.usbodysource.com/
  2. Hrm, I've no idea what year car that sensor came from. Might have been a 98 mustang. I also didn't realize the spell checker on my phone was so terrible. Sorry about the word selection.
  3. Trip to the junkyard netted a couple coil packs, a set weird spark plug wires, a 3.8l cam sensor, an 89 Town Car upper intake, and an EEC-V DDX4 from a 97 mustang. I meant to get a picture of the EEC location in that car. It was really easy to get to. I am a little covered about the eec though. The car was hit on that side and the eec's case is a little dented. I opened the car and the boards looked fine so I will cross fingers and hope it will work. Now I need the tuning/programmer, crank sensor and wheel, and a connector for the cam sensor. Figuring I will make some detailed instructions on the cam sensor 351w distributor mod since I can't find a step by step. Figure I spent roughly 400, but that is including 80 in extra parts.
  4. Is there an advantage to one of the other computer models with a strategy that has edit and datalog? I'm going to make another trip to the yard and collect the other parts for the EDIS. Shouldn't be too hard to source an EEC from... 96-97 4.6L Mustang, T-Bird, Crown Vic 96-97 3.8L Mustang
  5. These are the computers I got... Explorer... I such at posting pictures.
  6. I have no need for transmission control since I swapped in a Tremec 3550, which I've managed to mess up the third gear synchronize in. My distributor is worn out and in need of replacement, so if I were to change to EDIS I figure now is the time. I can just grab the other sensors and coil pack from that explorer. Though I will have to modify the cam sensor as you did and somehow rig up the crank sensor. It looked like the 351w I sourced the intake from had a crank sensor but its harmonic balancer was gone. All the 351w engines had their distributors and balancers missing. Guessing someone went through and got all those. I so wish there were a lightning laying in the yard somewhere. Thanks for the info!
  7. So I went to the junk yard to start collecting parts for efi swap. I pulled intake, fuel rail, wiring harness (butchered it a bit) and EEC from a 97 F150. Then I stumbled upon a 95 Explorer and I pulled its upper (which wont work with the 97 351w lower), wiring harness and EEC. I grabbed the stuff off the explorer because less butchering of the harness was required and the computer mounts in an awesome location. My question is, do I have to do EDIS? Why is it better than the distributor with TFI? Yes probably silly questions.
  8. Mesozoic, I want to marry you. Wait are you female?? This is exactly the information I was looking for. I attempted to do EFI on the cheap with an old Holley 950 Pro and throttle body. The results were mixed, little more power, less driveability, less gas mileage, and broken something in the engine. Most of that was due I'm sure to my lack of tuning knowledge with the system. Anyway, I'm going to replicate your process on my 73. Thank you!!
  9. Yes, I hope the repute will be easy. Do you guys think I should add adhesive along with the new staples? The color is blue glow, and thank you for the complement. The paint is not perfect, but, my wife and I painted ourselves. It was quite a learning experience.
  10. Took me a little bit to figure out how to upload the pictures.
  11. The convertible top on my 73 Mustang came apart after a particularly heavy rain. We had heavy rain storms off and on the past month with my car was parked outside. I drove it the day before the failure and noticed the top looked a little saggy. My second clue was how easy it was to close the top. I didn't drive my stang the day of the failure. We came home from work and the top looked like an elephant sat on it. Turns out the staples pulled out of the tack strip and let the rear bar and back window fall away from the main body of the convertible top. So now I need to put the band back together. I installed the top myself which is probably most of the problem. ;) But, that means I know I can fix it. I hadn't put any glue between the material of main body and the rear window. It didn't say to do that and the top had been fine for years and remained taught with no sags or any issues. It may have actually failed because I was thinking it was an example of a wild car repair I'd done correctly. :P
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