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Everything posted by johndoe000

  1. Read this: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmission-articles/487409-servicing-hurst-shifter.html And buy one of these: http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/hurst-competition-plus-installation-kits/make/ford Worked wonders on my toploader.
  2. The most cost effective way to add rear discs to an 8" or small bearing 9" axle is by far the crown vic swap. I used the brackets, calipers, flex lines, and master cylinder from a 92 vic. I did a whole tech write up on it and you can check it out here... http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/braking-articles/488169-budget-rear-discs-8-small-9-axles.html
  3. Just tried to find my instructions but they are clearly gone. Best way would be a solid mock up to decide where you want to drill into the frame for the u-bolts. Its not too hard, as the mounts should sit right in front of the axle as close as possible. Here is the only picture I have, if you want more just ask.
  4. There should be a small cotter style pin holding a larger retaining pin in place. Pull out the cotter and then the larger pin should come free. Here is a picture I found online for reference. http://images.cougarpartscatalog.com/dc/D3ZZ-9A758-B/D3ZZ-9A758-B_%288%29-1028.jpg Or if its the later version 72-73 version then all that's needed is to pull the throttle cable towards you and lift the retaining portion from the pedal. Here is a picture of that one for reference. http://www.cjponyparts.com/images/1000/ACC4_1.jpg
  5. Just a cool video i found while browsing autoholics, enjoy :-D http://autoholics.com/2012/10/05/-Nitro-Warriors--Stop-Motion-Chase-664267#more
  6. Yeah I haven't taken a timing light to it yet, it's on the to-do list for sure. Thanks for the kind words! Engine specs: Scat 331 cast stroker crank, forged rods and pistons Performer RPM heads, cam, intake Holley 700cfm double pumper Hedman longtubes, modified by me for equalizer bar clearance
  7. Hey guys! My car has been running for bit so I thought I'd take some video before the exhaust system goes on, turn the sound up for this one!
  8. I'm running a 2-speed fan out of a Mercury Villager/Nissan Quest, got it at my local pick-and-pull for $30. I had to trim the shroud on it a tad and make some brackets to mount it, but it covers the majority of my rad and it works amazing and moves a ton of air. Here is a picture of it from last year before I installed the engine.
  9. I did a disc conversion in the rear as well, I ditched the old school steel capped MC for one out of a early 90s Crown Victoria. It bolted right up to the stock booster and works great with the discs all around.
  10. Hey guys! I thought I would post the short video I took during my car's first start up. I tried to hold the rpms between 2k-2.5k for the first little bit like all the engine break-in procedures say, so that's why I didn't rev her up in the video. I will be posting more as I move along!
  11. I think I found the problem, the fuse box looks like its missing the accessory post and one of its fuse holder brackets. Does anyone have a picture of their fuse box that's in proper condition?
  12. Hey guys, so I changed the solenoid today and still able to crank but no power to the I-post. I pulled the harness and checked continuity on the red-blue wire that runs to the I-post and it appears fine, but shouldn't this red-blue wire supply 12v to the I-post and not the other way around?
  13. Hey guys, So I tried to start the car for the first time, and she turns over but has no spark. I took a multimeter to the solenoid and I have 12v on the S-post when I crank, but I have no voltage at the I-post. Any idea on what the problem could be?
  14. You neglected to tell us some important info maybe that's why the replies were sparse. What transmission does the car have? How big are the primaries for the headers? I have a 302 based stroker in my car and a toploader. I had to pick up an inexpensive set of Hedmans (1 5/8" primaries, 3" collectors) and modify the drivers side to clear the equalizer bar linkage. It was quite a pain to do but they fit like a glove now. Check out my thread, maybe it'll help you - http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-header-modification
  15. Saw this video of a "what might have been" 1971 fastback done up like a Shelby. The car actually looks pretty good! Thought I'd share, check it out.
  16. Hey all, I thought I would share my header experience with everyone since I learned a lot and maybe it will help someone else on their mustang. I really wanted the 331 in my car to be able to breathe easy so I naturally decided that I would go with longtube headers over shorties. Well as many of you know NO ONE (that I could find anyway, and yes I even contacted FPA) makes a longtube header that works in a 71-73 with a 302 based small block and a toploader transmission. The damn mechanical clutch linkage is the issue, as it takes up valuable space right behind the power steering box where space is already cramped. So... I decided that I would modify an inexpensive set of headers to accommodate my set up. I started off with these, a set of Hedman headers from Summit, the driver's side header is on the bottom. So I did a test fit and took note of how only the last two primaries would need to be modified to make room for the equalizer bar. I also had to "massage" the one primary in order to get it past the power steering box, which I was disappointed with but it had to happen. Thus I began cutting... I knew the farthest rear primary would need to go up and over the equalizer bar.. Getting the second to fit was a challenge to say the least. I ended up having to snake it down and around the steering linkage to get it to be able to install it and it get past the clutch fork. This is the clearance with the pitman arm with the steering at full left. Its about 3/16". The final product before being full welded After welding and grinding the welds down I learned a ton doing this and it took a few afternoons and nights to get it all right. I also got a badass reminder of how you need to respect the angle grinder... Hope you all enjoyed my story!
  17. Painted mine silver and then clear coated it too. Don't leave it unpainted, you're just asking for it to rust.
  18. Rip it apart first. The original 302 block that came with my car had terrible pitting in the cylinder walls to the point where I had to replace it with a later foxbody block. The engine is stroked to 331cid and is wearing edelbrock rpm heads, an rpm air-gap intake and a 700cfm holley carb. I'm shooting for around 400hp but if it made more I wouldn't be surprised. A stout small block is a great start to these cars, if you want more down the line you can always make it happen with a number of methods.
  19. DJ, you are the man! That's a nice retrofit my friend!
  20. Hey guys, I installed the wiring harness a few weeks ago and I can't seem to figure out this one section. I know the pigtail off on its own is for the wiper motor but I have no idea what the others are for. Can anyone help??? Here are some pics: And here are some "just-for-fun" progress pics:
  21. Hey guys, was bored the other day so I drew up a quick sketch of a 71 Boss in a semi Big Daddy Roth style. Hope you enjoy!
  22. I'm going to be ordering a custom aluminum driveshaft in the coming week or so and I just need to verify with you guys. I measured my old rusted steel one and it was 52" center to center. In the CJ pony parts catalog its listed at 52" as well. However a trusted friend measured his and he says his is 51". I don't want to be off an inch lol. PS The car has a 9" rear with a toploader.
  23. YES DJ! Can't wait to see your beauty sporting a toploader!
  24. As far as I know the T56 from the Viper has larger input and output shafts, apparently its much stronger as many OE T56s are only rated for just shy of 500ftlbs.
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