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dhvidston

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Everything posted by dhvidston

  1. Anyone know what color the coil spring stripe marks would be for a 71 Mach 1 with 351C,4v PS no AC ?
  2. Thanks everyone for the great input. The problem has been resolved and I'm back on the road! I did turn the motor over at the balancer... turned fine... tried putting power direct to new (re-built) starter motor and still no action from starter... so I took it back to AutoZone for another one.. they tested the one I brought back and it sounded like my ice maker in the fridge! Luckily they had another bebuild on hand (.. a Ford marked D2 part #, yeah!) and they tested it.. sounded much better and passed inspection.. I'm thinking, OK, this has to be it... get it in and "click" still nothing! I had a new negative battery cable on hand so I replaced the old cable... it was the absolute last thing to do... and then the SOB fired right up. It's always the last thing you do that works, right?
  3. Tnx. will be testing in driveway with hood up. (good idea). I did try starting with lights on yesterday.. and lights did not dim. That's good to know!
  4. Thanks for the info friend.. will test it out this afternoon!
  5. MOTOR WON'T CRANK OVER UPDATE Huh Thanks all for your input.. this is still a frustrating issue. To date, I've put in a new Motorcraft battery, it's reading 12.56 volts. I replaced the starter relay with new one (not repo concourse) I bought an auto circuit tester and tested the wire coming from the ignition switch on the column to the "S" post on the starter relay and it lit up as being good. I then replaced the starter itself thinking I had it beat now.. but all I got was the same single click from the starter relay that I had been getting. Next, I replaced the Starter cable from the relay to the starter with a brand new cable I had waiting to use for my Mach 1 resto... that didn't do the trick either!? I again tried starting it by jumping a wire across the positive relay post to the starter cable relay post... only makes the solenoid click. also tried jumper wire from pos. battery post to small "S" starter post on relay.. but just a click from solenoid. So, then.. I bench tested my old original 71 Ford starter that I had taken out to see if it possibly ran?.. thinking that for some reason my Engine was seized up?... but that starter motor was in fact dead and did not run when I put the poss. on the motor's post and the neg. to the starter case. Next, I plan to put a wrench to the crank pulley to see if I can manually turn the enigine.. to make sure it's not seized somehow? Up to this point, I've had my car out since March.. at St. Pat's parade, nice days.. it ran fine. WHAT AM I MISSING HERE? Thanks for your help. Doug in Indy
  6. MOTOR WON'T CRANK OVER UPDATE :huh: Thanks all for your input.. this is still a frustrating issue. To date, I've put in a new Motorcraft battery, it's reading 12.56 volts. I replaced the starter relay with new one (not repo concourse) I bought an auto circuit tester and tested the wire coming from the ignition switch on the column to the "S" post on the starter relay and it lit up as being good. I then replaced the starter itself thinking I had it beat now.. but all I got was the same single click from the starter relay that I had been getting. Next, I replaced the Starter cable from the relay to the starter with a brand new cable I had waiting to use for my Mach 1 resto... that didn't do the trick either!? I again tried starting it by jumping a wire across the positive relay post to the starter cable relay post... only makes the solenoid click. also tried jumper wire from pos. battery post to small "S" starter post on relay.. but just a click from solenoid. So, then.. I bench tested my old original 71 Ford starter that I had taken out to see if it possibly ran?.. thinking that for some reason my Engine was seized up?... but that starter motor was in fact dead and did not run when I put the poss. on the motor's post and the neg. to the starter case. Next, I plan to put a wrench to the crank pulley to see if I can manually turn the enigine.. to make sure it's not seized somehow? Up to this point, I've had my car out since March.. at St. Pat's parade, nice days.. it ran fine. WHAT AM I MISSING HERE? Thanks for your help. Doug in Indy
  7. PS> I also tried to jumper over from neg. to possitive posts on starter solinoid with ignition turned on.. but all I get is a single click where the solinoid is pulling up on the electro magnet Hi, this doesn't make sense to me. There are no 'neg' posts on the solenoid. Let me make sure we understand. Originally you went to start it after sat a couple of weeks and 'nothing' happened. You replaced the battery and tried to start it and you get a 'click' but it doesn't turn over. Next step. Take the tester and put it on the big terminal on the solenoid that goes to the starter. Turn the key to start. Does it show power? No? Try the small terminal next to the big starter terminal. Does it show power either when the key is off or when you have the key in the start position? If on the first test you do see power on the big terminal to the starter when key is in start then take a jumper cable and attach it to the battery positive post. Take the other end and attach it to the big solenoid post that goes to the starter. THERE WILL BE A LARGE SPARK. Make sure you are well ventilated. Did the engine crank? Yes! the solenoid is bad. No. The battery is bad OR the start/engine is bad. My guess is it is your solenoid got stuck in a position where it was powering the coil but not the starter. It drained the battery. You replaced the battery and the solenoid is still bad so when you try to start the car you just get a click. Will try tests as you suggest to starter... again, I replaced battery last week and ran solenoid tests with a brand new solenoid yesterday... I tried jumpering from the battery wire post on solenoid to the starter wire post on solenoid with ignition on but all I got was a "click" out of the solenoid. Will let you know how the starter test goes
  8. I have not tried that ... is there a way to do that with it still installed on car?
  9. PS> I also tried to jumper over from neg. to possitive posts on starter solinoid with ignition turned on.. but all I get is a single click where the solinoid is pulling up on the electro magnet
  10. Hi guys Unfortunately, my 302 2v 71 convertible wont turn over. Had it running fine earlier this Spring. then let sit for two weeks.. went out to start it and nothing. So far Ive replaced the battery, put in a new starter solinoid.. but all it does is make a single "click" sound. Battery is charged, I tested "S" line to ignition and it lit up the tester OK with ignition on.. Not sure where to go from here... HELP!
  11. Theres 2 shims (one each side) that get placed in-between the decklid and the hinge at the bolt hole closest to the rear body panel. Also if a new after market decklid the skin isn't welded to the frame like o.e.m. So it allows the skin to move around. You may have to "tweak or twist to line up then add a few small track welds to hold. Thanks! my deck lid is the original.. so I will try adding the shims.. will let you know how it goes.. TNX!
  12. Hi guys Having issues with trunk lid alignment... the lines on the lid look perfect on both sides and across the back... the lower left corner is sitting nice and flush with the quarter extension.. the issue is that the upper left corner is sitting an 1/8" high and the lower right corner is sitting almost a 1/4" high. I have install a new rubber seal.. and was hoping to make all my alignment adjustments after the new seal was installed... I can lower the latch to bring the right side down.. but that also brings the good left side down too far (?) Do I need to add shims/washers? and where would I add them? Also, I noticed the hinges are only attached by one bolt on each side.. under the package shelf.. is that right? just the one bolt on fastback hinge? Any advise greatly appreciated! Doug in Indy
  13. Thanks Don Attached are photos of the casting numbers...( i phones are great in tight places, upside down) reads D1AE - GA... your thoughts? tnx
  14. Thanks Don.. just want to clarify.. it seems the CC heads are more desirable with the higher compression... in which case, I hope I have them.. but I'm still a bit confused on the ID of the heads.. I know they are for 4v but I've read on line that the *4 (4 dot) indicates "open chamber". I've attached a photo. Also, would this be correct for an "M Code" motor? What components make up an M code? Here's what I know right now.. I have a 1972 351C block that is a D2AE-CA which some say indicates a Cobra Jet block, with 2 bolt mains and *4 heads There appears to be no correlation between dot/no dot and OC/CC. http://www.351c.net/archive/parts/cleveland-parts-catalog/cylinder-heads/351c-4v-cylinder-head-date-codes/ Great info! THANKS
  15. Thanks Don.. just want to clarify.. it seems the CC heads are more desirable with the higher compression... in which case, I hope I have them.. but I'm still a bit confused on the ID of the heads.. I know they are for 4v but I've read on line that the *4 (4 dot) indicates "open chamber". I've attached a photo. Also, would this be correct for an "M Code" motor? What components make up an M code? Here's what I know right now.. I have a 1972 351C block that is a D2AE-CA which some say indicates a Cobra Jet block, with 2 bolt mains and *4 heads
  16. To me, it looks like the block only was replaced. Your block date code is 1972 Sept. 09 and list as a Cobra Jet block, but I think your heads are '71 C.C. heads as they have the 4*. What is the date codes for the heads? Those can be found between the valve springs. With a mirror you could see the head casting numbers just under the intake ports, in reverse of course ( or pull the heads off). That should tell you more. You would be looking for something like D0AE-6090-GA or other letters. It could also be D1ZE-?? thought to be CJ heads. Also, there will be the sequential VIN number just under the left hand head stamped at the back of the block. You may also have a 4 bolt main!! Pull the pan, man. If you have not found MustangTek.com , it is a good source of information. Hope that helps. Geoff Thanks Geoff... the head casting number looks like "0J26",,, two bolt mains
  17. Thanks. with the oil pan off, I see that I have two bolt main. Thanks Don.. would the "4 dot" number in the corners indicate open chambers? Are there other numbers I need to look for?
  18. Hi all. Restoring a 1971 Mach1 "M" code.. or so I thought! Was stripping the motor to repaint and found the casting numbers under the block. D2AE-CA and 2 J 9... unfortunately, I thinks this must mean my original motor was replace with a 1972 motor? Also, the motor did have a 4v cast iron intake and the 4v heads that are marked with a 4* (4 dot) in the corners. could this mean my original motor was replace with a '72 351HO motor? Thanks for the input! Doug Here are some pics of 351C that came in my M code Mach1
  19. Looking for just this right detail for my 71 Mach 1 351 C... awesome job! I do have a question... wouldn't you have to carve the letters backward to print it in a mirror image? or does it work OK ( pun intended ) to just flip the stamp upside down before stamping? Also, does it matter which valve cover the "OK" gets applied to? my old stamp is on the passenger side. Thanks! Doug in Indy
  20. Looks like you have the very rare clock in the instrument panel... be careful with the plastic face.. I have not found a repop for this as it has the small hole at the bottom for the clock stem. I have this same set up on my 71 M code Mach 1 Doug in Indy
  21. Amen to that... good plastic is hard to find... sometimes better to clean up and spray dye what you have.. could save you lots of money Doug in Indy
  22. Yes I have one I am giving him Don Don, Thank you for the console button,, I received it yesterday in the mail. Much appreciated friend! Doug in Indy
  23. I thought is was metal about 8 or 10 gauge in size with 2 screws and little over an inch long. mike Mike, looked at a bunch of used lids and consoles - the plastic catch is removed on all of them - have a couple of complete units - the part you need is plastic I'll keep digging, if I find one I'll mail it to you. Don Doug, I found the part you need I'll mail it tomorrow, late Christmas present Don I thought is was metal about 8 or 10 gauge in size with 2 screws and little over an inch long. mike Mike, looked at a bunch of used lids and consoles - the plastic catch is removed on all of them - have a couple of complete units - the part you need is plastic I'll keep digging, if I find one I'll mail it to you. Don Doug, I found the part you need I'll mail it tomorrow, late Christmas present Don Don, you are awesome! Thanks so much! Here's to a great start to 2016! Btw, I will get you more info on this event but.. The Mustang Club of Indianapolis is hosting the 40th Anniversary of the MCA at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway this coming Labor Day ( a ways off.. but mark you calendar ) We are planning a Guinness World Book Record attempt at the longest caravan of Mustangs in the World! We need lots of 71 - 73's here to participate.. will keep you informed Doug in Indy
  24. Ha-ha.. totally understand! Indiana has been kind so far.. oops, jinx
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