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Everything posted by asusnz

  1. Hi Steve, whereabouts in NZ are you? I am in Wellington and nearly finished with the body work on my 72 vert and maybe able to help. Send me a PM it maybe easier to ring?
  2. I'm wondering if anybody has installed the TMI 1-Piece Headliner yet? http://www.tmiproducts.com/mustang/browse-by-vehicle/classic-1964-1973/1971-73/1971-73-mustang-sportsroof-1-piece-headliner-corinthian-vinyl.html Apparently this upgrade gives an extra couple of inches in headroom plus can be installed with or without the front/rear glass looks VERY appealing. Be interested to see pictures of one installed in a 71-73.
  3. kevken1959 I had a similar "frustrating" experience restoring my 71 Boss. To a certain extent where "professional" services were used it took away some of the fun and shine from the project. I'm having more fun restoring my 72 vert myself which in many ways I have the previous experience to thank for this! That's been a big positive for the hobby. I had issues with a 71 where with the wipers running when turning them off the wipers would stop and sit exactly where they were the moment I turned them off. I would have to turn them off when they were closest to the off position - so basically the park feature was not working. I went through three wiper motors (and another wiper switch) before figuring out that the copper strip that attaches to one of the bolts that mounts the wiper motor to the firewall/cowl basically was not making clean electrical contact. If I put a multi-meter on the resistance beep testing the earth it all tested ok so it looked like it was earthing. But eventually I cleaned the copper strip with some copper cleaner from the supermarket and sanded lightly where it made contact the wiper motor. From then on it worked fine. I also rebuilt two wiper motors and recommend the test procedures found in the 71 Ford service manuals that can be done on the bench that way you can eliminate other wiring gremlins in the car. For amusement I retested the other two wiper motors I thought were faulty and making the same check they worked fine. Also had the wiper washer motor not working on that same car I recall the plug from the wiring loom to the washer pump was touchy. With the battery disconnected I was able to clean the two pins on the wiring loom plug. Probably just had a bit of gunk inside that was stopping the pump from working. Worked after cleaning. Probably not the same as the issues your having but maybe something as simple as this...
  4. Hi Chet, I welded in some 1" steel bar at the beginning mainly as I needed to get the vehicle towed a few times (sand blasting, shifting premises). I didn't want the tow truck pulley to stretch the car without the doors on etc so added this bracing for good measure. I have replaced the floor pan on one side so far and have been happy with the results. Have not need to replace the rockers on this project. The bracing I welded in can be a pain to work around but hopefully keeps things nice and square. I originally considered a rotisserie but have a four post car hoist so went they way.
  5. After rebuilding my power steering pump some time back without thinking about it I used some generic power steering fluid and it squealed and acted like you said yours did! Read here and on other places to use "ATF Type F" fluid. I drained what I had put in and used the type F and virtually no squealing after that. Like said before check for good belt tension and if changing the fluid that the pump has been bleed properly (easy to do by hand). I refereed to the Ford service manual when putting the correct fluid in the second time around (should have done that first!) You never know what the previous owner or some mechanic may have done in the past. Good luck...
  6. I had good results using aluminium foil - the stuff used in the kitchen. Just tear a strip off, place it in water for a few seconds then very gently rub the aluminium foil against the chrome. Repeat as necessary. No need to rub hard. Works well with minor pitting. Then wax when finished. Mine look great three years later. Found that trick somewhere online at the time some sort of chemical reaction takes place I remember reading.
  7. I bought a set of these moldings some time back. Very happy with the fit. My original set had been dented and generally worn out - eventually I will repair these though. If I recall no fasteners arrived so I used some ford trim molding clips (whatever they are called hopefully the attachment shows them). There is documentation on what original fasteners Ford used - good luck relocating these. I've had no issues with my substitutes (my originals were long gone!). Found the trim clips on ebay easy enough to get a kit. When I'm on my other computer I'll upload a pic of the car at some point for your reference. Has your car had them installed in the past? Are the factory holes there? The moldings at the front fender slot in between the lower valance and front fender easy to install. img upload
  8. I recently did this job. I purchased the tool mentioned above from West Coast Cougar and could not get it to work with my car (fastback body with the rear fold down seat). It may work on other body shapes and with out the fold down seat option. For me the purchase of this tool was a waste of time (and money) - it may have worked if I decided to get the grinder out and hack it to bits. There just wasn't enough room to place the tool and turn like their video shows (at least in my car). So in the end I tried several tools such as pry bars but vice grips did the trick. When the torsion bars are installed correctly they are under reasonable tension so you need to be careful. Think about if you slip where your face (especially your eyes) are at the time. Wear good gloves too. The catch is figuring out the correct way to install the torsion bars. When I initially attempted to install the bars the trunk would not remain open/stay up. I then noticed I could remove the torsion bars by hand - at this point I'm thinking what's all the fuss about these being dangerous, etc. I read the 71 Ford service manual, plenty of youtube videos and research on here and other sites but I struggled to figure it out exactly. The Ford service book said identify the left and right bars (there is a difference - your third photo sort of shows it) one of them was supposed to have a yellow paint mark on it but this was long gone for me. After many attempts (it seems there are a few configurations) when you install each bar you place one end of the bar at the pivot point, at the other end with the three adjustment notches using the vice grips you turn the bar thinking it terms of a circle three quarters of a turn then place it into one of the notches. For me the key was turning the bar three quarters of a circle to get the tension. Initially I was only turning the bar about a quarter to half a turn and this would not apply enough tension to keep the trunk open. The bar should be under decent pressure when inserting into a notch. I used the vice grips to remove also just ensure the adjustment is tight and don't let go. You may (will) scratch some paint. I have a factory rear spoiler and the trunk stays open fine. There is a thicker version torsion bar that I've read others say you need for the rear spoiler. I have both - in my opinion the measurement difference is so little I cannot see how it would make a difference. I have the thinner version installed and it is working ok. I have the torsion rods in the position closest to the rear of the car. The difference in a successful installation may also be which bar gets installed first, ie. one bar goes under the other. At the end of the day use a method that you are most comfortable with. The job does need some patience but the next time I do this it would be a five minute job as opposed to a one hour job!
  9. I am looking to use these guys: http://vacuumorna-metal.com/content/restoration I think this is the same place that "bkdunha" mentions. I asked them for a quote last week and the price for each part restored was less than what the reproduction parts cost. They will repair broken parts such as screw studs, cracks, etc. I have purchased several reproduction dash parts in the past and with the exception of the long console clock bezel have been unimpressed with the quality compared to the originals.
  10. I recently did this also. Best photo I could find was taken before the lockout rod was connected I never took any photos after this image. I recall the lockout rod is connected using the same stud/fasteners as what connects the shifter rods to the Hurst shifter assembly. Hopefully the picture is useful to you... If your missing one of those studs perhaps Don@OhioMustang may have one lying around.
  11. Asking those that have driven both the fastback and coupe shapes 1) is the head height the same/similar? 2) is the visibility better in the coupe? Wondering how the two styles compare to drive...
  12. What are the three plugs in the engine bay by the firewall used for? I see the 4 pin is for the neutral safety switch The 3 pin is for the engine feed I'm guessing one of the plugs is for the light in the auto transmission shifter housing (not sure which one though). Maybe one of these is used for an original idle stop solenoid? I had a look at the 71 wiring diagrams and various posts but found nothing that clearly says what they do...
  13. I did clean the other separator before installing it. I managed to find another rubber ring to replace the original. I cleaned up the "rusty" metal washer/ring also. The foam piece is only about the size of the center hole. When I cleaned it out about a tablespoon of dust with a strong petrol smell fell out it. I am using petrol caps specifically for the 71-73 Mustang (Scott Drake). Brand new fuel lines. I did wonder about using stainless steel wool as a replacement - will give that a try. I'm wondering if the charcoal canister is the culprit will swap over and see (smell) what happens.
  14. Does anyone know what the foam type material is inside the fuel vapor separator that sits atop the fuel tank? I have found that if I install the unit without the foam when walking up to the car you can notice a petrol smell around the car. The other unit with the foam (and cleaned up since taking that photo) basically no petrol smell is noticeable. Both cars roughly had 3/4 to a full tank of fuel. The "foam" must be soaking up the fumes. Wondering what it is and maybe a substitute can be used? Maybe made of charcoal like the canister in the engine bay? Apparently these were used on Ford cars produced 1971-1972 I'm assuming 73 also but they are not a reproduced part. I've had a look around and they seem to be in the "unobtainable" category!
  15. I installed a set of the repro plastic interior quarter panels in my Mach 1 last year. They have no mounting holes pre-drilled so you have to figure that out which adds to the fun installing them! (do a test fit before painting if reqd). They don't look as solid as the originals and the grain/texture is different. The car is not "concourse" correct but installed they look good. I wanted to use the original panels in another car and these were a good set for that. I have heard a few comments from others in the past regarding quality of the repros and for the most part I would agree with them. But personally I was happy with the result of the installed repros. If you want your car to look "concourse" these will be no good. My 72 convertible when I got it had leather upholstered over the quarter panels I hated the look IMHO. I ripped the leather off and found the original panels were in "Swiss cheese" condition. I took the time to restore these panels (hours of work) but they look good. I applied a texture paint so they don't look original anyway. But then again only another fussy Mustang owner would notice the difference! (also the same for the repro plastic panels) I'll try and find some photos. If I could get my hands on a good original set I would go for these every time but easier said than done. You could use the repros to cover over if you like that look definitely. Personal preference really and it's your car.
  16. I am in the process of refurbishing my steering column and I cannot recall which way the firewall seal for a manual transmission goes? I've had a look through the shop manuals/online/etc but not able to find a picture that clearly shows this. I've attached a picture of what I have loosely assembled. I know the clutch rod goes through this seal but I don't have that setup in the car yet to go by. Wondering if anyone has a good picture...
  17. Last week I upgraded my factory setup drum brakes front/rear with no brake booster to discs front/rear and added a booster. Best upgrade yet - the difference is between hot and cold. When I bought this car the first I thing I purchased was this booster: http://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-brake-booster-conversion-kit-1971-1973/p/BBCK4/ The booster that came with my kit did not look like the stock 71-73 booster more like something from a 69-70 but everything is there to do the conversion. Works great. I purchased SSBC brakes - codes a133-2 (front discs), a111-2 (rear discs) and added/replaced the distribution block code a0730. You should be able to check those codes on their website. I didn't bother with slotted discs or bigger sized rotors but no doubt some of those options would be fun too. I purchased this stuff about 2-3 years back and it sat in storage ever since. I serviced my drum brakes soon after and came to the conclusion they were sufficient after doing so. But recently I decided to fit the kits to the car as I couldn't use them elsewhere and started to get the itch to do the upgrade! I added rear discs because at the time I felt why not. They did make a difference but the booster and front discs will make the biggest difference. Personal preference whether to add rear discs but I have not regretted it. Some guys would say rear discs over rear drums is about a 5-10% performance boost. Obviously you would have to decide if the extra cost was worth it. These kits said they would not work with 14" wheels. I am running aftermarket/modern reproduction Magnum 500 rims (14x7 front, 14x8 rear) these work fine. I did try an OEM 14" Magnum 500 rim that was good too. Tried a standard 14" rim that didn't fit (a weld on the inside got in the way) - that could be something to be aware of. If adding rear discs, the rear parking brake cable worked fine no modification needed on my car but could be something that needs work. The brake lines needed customizing but mainly at the rear axle. Had to make a custom bracket for the SSBC distribution block and re-plumb the brake lines in that area. Otherwise everything went as per instructions.
  18. Maybe this would work: http://semomustang.com/products/1970-1973-hurst-back-up-switch-harness-boss-302-428-cobra-jet-351c-mach-1
  19. That's great Stanglover those photos are useful. The block is stamped D0AE-L date code 0L16. The engine was pulled from a 73 Mach 1 though not original to that car. It had a Toploader connected to it but no tag was on it or any useful information externally to say what it is. Many of the parts on the engine were from different year Mustangs and was not setup in a factory standard way. That block is at the machine shop at the moment when I popped in two days a go I noticed this part had been screwed in. I asked the engine builder why and he said that it was installed originally before cleaning up the block. I thought that it was an odd part to be there. Again Stanglover thanks for the photos worth more than a thousand words to me!
  20. That's interesting. The car that this block came from could very well have been converted from an auto to a manual transmission at some point. The block is a D0AE-L 4 bolt mains. What exactly should be there? Sounds like this was not the standard setup for a 71/73 Mustang with a manual trans?
  21. Hello, wondering if anyone can identify exactly what the part I have circled in orange in the picture is? I know this block came from a 73 Mach 1 that had a manual transmission. I'm thinking the clutch is connected in some way here at a guess? The car had previously been crashed I recall seeing the front cross member pushed in on the drivers side before that engine came out. That might explain the thick washers. Would be interested what others think?
  22. I bought and installed one of these a few years back: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/performance_2_barrels/parts/0-4412C Converted it to electric choke so bought the extra bits to do that. Left the original stock 2v manifold in place. I have the aftermarket ram-air setup on the car also and can close the hood - the holley didn't change height. All I did was replace the original carb. Though as I've learnt more I have been thinking of upgrading the manifold/heads/carb but early days for that. Maybe useful to you...
  23. I purchased a blue set from TMI which I recently installed. I converted from the standard door panels to the deluxe and found out that the door pull requires a metal bracket (not reproduced and they do not come with the aftermarket door pulls) and the door latch is specific to either type so that needed changing to accept the deluxe chrome door latches. It took several hours to install each side. You need good patience it got frustrating fast. I found the clips would often pop out some would break. I would constantly take the panel back out and reconfigure the clips until I got it right. Alternatively the original standard panels would pop in and out in a few minutes (I did try to make sure I was going about the job correctly). I am happy with the result but it wasn't the most fun job to install put it that way. I would give them an 7/10. There were some scratches in the corners when I took them out of the box. There is too much fabric around the door pulls that needs trimming. But they do look good in the car. There is another brand that offers the "Ford licensed" stamp of approval - that maybe a better fit I've read comments on this site that suggest that but cannot say from personal experience.
  24. Hi, I am about to get my rear glass panel installed back into my 71 Mach 1 and decided to get this particular job "professionally" done. I have read a few posts on this site and have noticed that foam should be installed before placing the glass onto the car. I mentioned this to the installer whilst booking the job on the phone and he reckoned forget that the modern sealers are superior basically the foam is not needed. I am not convinced however. Wondering if the foam is necessary or not?
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