Jump to content

cheezsnake

Members
  • Content Count

    95
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About cheezsnake

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mustang, 351C 4V

Location

  • Location
    Indiana
  • Region
    Central

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Undisclosed

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. All, sorry this is so delayed. Didn’t have the topic set up to notify. Yes, this setup is still working fine. Granted, I haven’t put a lot of miles on yet. But it’s never failed to start, and I’ve taken a few 50 mile round trips with no ignition issues.
  2. Thank for all the input. Here's what I ended up doing after seeing your posts and pics ... Since the middle screw on each side of the dash had the large rectangle hole above it in the pad flange, I left those speed nuts down on the dash to still secure the center of each dash trim piece. For the other 4 screws, I moved the speed nuts up to the pad flange, drilling new holes in the flange where the factory holes didn't line up with the screw holes. That allowed the screws to pull the pad down at those 4 points. Not sure if that's the way it came from Ford, but seems to have worked. Thanks
  3. Great pics, Guys! Thanks! Although, now I am second guessing. Yes, I believe I have that part. That is where the speed nuts are currently attached. And, in Kilgon's 1st pic, it looks like it has (or had) speed nuts at those holes? I attached some pics below. One shows where the speed nuts are on the dash. The other shows the dash pad flange above. At that location, and at the center screw on the passenger side, the hole in the flange is a wide rectangle. The other holes are large circles. The issue is the screw goes up through the speed nut, and into those large holes, without grabbing
  4. Thanks for the help. I'll move the speed nuts up to the flange from where they have been, but looks like I'll need to drill some new holes in the flange first, since only the passenger side holes line up with the screw holes beneath. What was confusing about this is the parts diagram I have sure looks like those speed nuts are supposed to go on the top of the dash, and not up on the pad flange. But, then they wouldn't anchor the pad. Thanks again.
  5. Finally getting around to installing the new dash pad that the previous owner purchased (Dashes Direct) for my 71. The dash was not installed when I purchased the car, so I didn't take it apart to see how it goes together. The new dash pad assembly actually seated pretty easily with the 3 spring clips, and it seems to fit nice. My question concerns the screws that go up through the instrument panel and glove box covers. These screws go up through speed nuts that are attached to the top dash plate, and then they go ... ? It seems like they need to screw into the dash pad somehow, because i
  6. I need some help understanding proper function of the intermittent wiper system. My 71 came with intermittent wipers, only they don't really work. From the left stop, the switch scrolls a ways before it comes to the first position. Then there are 2 more positions before it comes to the right stop. 3 total clicks. The wipers will cycle once when I get to that first position. Then nothing. Moving the switch to the other 2 stops does nothing. If I start over from the left, I have gotten it to cycle once again, but only once. How many positions should there be from left to right? Is that lo
  7. Did you have any clearance issues with the MDL clutch cable and the Hooker headers? Looking into an FMX to T5 conversion with my 351C 4V and Hooker headers. They are not on MDLs list of compatible exhaust systems. Thanks! No clearance issues with the headers. I am surprised they don't list it as compatible since the cable had plenty of clearance. The pipe after the collector is at about 1" so in that area I covered the cable with wire heat insulation to be on the safe side. Sounds good. Thanks!
  8. Just following up for those that might be interested. Apparently, you can't bench test those temp sensors with a vacuum source, or at least not the way I tried it. The installed temp sensor is connected to vacuum on the running engine, and it's running fine ... does not seem to have caused a leak.
  9. Did you have any clearance issues with the MDL clutch cable and the Hooker headers? Looking into an FMX to T5 conversion with my 351C 4V and Hooker headers. They are not on MDLs list of compatible exhaust systems. Thanks!
  10. Looking for an intermittent wiper module, and a pair of the hinges for the heavier ram air hood. Thanks!
  11. OK. So, if I understand this correctly, one side of the temp sensor is supplied with manifold vacuum, and the other side goes to the snorkel vacuum motor. When the engine is cold, the temp sensor allows manifold vacuum to pull the motor door closed, routing warm air from above the exhaust manifold into the air cleaner. As the engine warms, the temp sensor closes vacuum to the snorkel motor, which opens the door to the cooler engine compartment air. If I have that right, here's my question ... Shouldn't the temp sensor hold vacuum? If I connect the manifold side to a vacuum source (te
  12. Thanks for the link! Very helpful. Is the vacuum valve? with the 2 tubes in the center of the cleaner something that’s reproduced? If it’s available, I’d like to replace it.
  13. Does anyone know if the various air cleaner vacuum fittings are reproduced anywhere, and if so where you can find them? I know the small breather filter is available. I may have the others (you can see one in the pic), but they have seen better days. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...