Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cheezsnake

  1. All, sorry this is so delayed. Didn’t have the topic set up to notify. Yes, this setup is still working fine. Granted, I haven’t put a lot of miles on yet. But it’s never failed to start, and I’ve taken a few 50 mile round trips with no ignition issues.
  2. Thank for all the input. Here's what I ended up doing after seeing your posts and pics ... Since the middle screw on each side of the dash had the large rectangle hole above it in the pad flange, I left those speed nuts down on the dash to still secure the center of each dash trim piece. For the other 4 screws, I moved the speed nuts up to the pad flange, drilling new holes in the flange where the factory holes didn't line up with the screw holes. That allowed the screws to pull the pad down at those 4 points. Not sure if that's the way it came from Ford, but seems to have worked. Thanks again for the help.
  3. Great pics, Guys! Thanks! Although, now I am second guessing. Yes, I believe I have that part. That is where the speed nuts are currently attached. And, in Kilgon's 1st pic, it looks like it has (or had) speed nuts at those holes? I attached some pics below. One shows where the speed nuts are on the dash. The other shows the dash pad flange above. At that location, and at the center screw on the passenger side, the hole in the flange is a wide rectangle. The other holes are large circles. The issue is the screw goes up through the speed nut, and into those large holes, without grabbing any part of the dash pad. So, without a speed nut or something on the flange, the screws won't pull the dash pad down and secure it.
  4. Thanks for the help. I'll move the speed nuts up to the flange from where they have been, but looks like I'll need to drill some new holes in the flange first, since only the passenger side holes line up with the screw holes beneath. What was confusing about this is the parts diagram I have sure looks like those speed nuts are supposed to go on the top of the dash, and not up on the pad flange. But, then they wouldn't anchor the pad. Thanks again.
  5. Finally getting around to installing the new dash pad that the previous owner purchased (Dashes Direct) for my 71. The dash was not installed when I purchased the car, so I didn't take it apart to see how it goes together. The new dash pad assembly actually seated pretty easily with the 3 spring clips, and it seems to fit nice. My question concerns the screws that go up through the instrument panel and glove box covers. These screws go up through speed nuts that are attached to the top dash plate, and then they go ... ? It seems like they need to screw into the dash pad somehow, because it needs to be pulled down to fit correctly at the front. But, the new dash pad has a narrow metal plate that runs the length of the pad, directly above the speed nuts. That plate has several large holes in it, only half of which line up with the speed nuts below. But, even with the holes that do line up, the screws from the interior kit I have don't seem nearly long enough to reach the pad material above the plate. Are those screws supposed to drill into the dash pad foam? Are the speed nuts supposed to instead go on that metal plate on the dash pad to allow the screws to pull the pad down tight? Thanks!
  6. I need some help understanding proper function of the intermittent wiper system. My 71 came with intermittent wipers, only they don't really work. From the left stop, the switch scrolls a ways before it comes to the first position. Then there are 2 more positions before it comes to the right stop. 3 total clicks. The wipers will cycle once when I get to that first position. Then nothing. Moving the switch to the other 2 stops does nothing. If I start over from the left, I have gotten it to cycle once again, but only once. How many positions should there be from left to right? Is that long scroll / spin from the left normal? What function should each switch position have? Does my problem sound like a bad switch, or a bad module? Thanks!
  7. Did you have any clearance issues with the MDL clutch cable and the Hooker headers? Looking into an FMX to T5 conversion with my 351C 4V and Hooker headers. They are not on MDLs list of compatible exhaust systems. Thanks! No clearance issues with the headers. I am surprised they don't list it as compatible since the cable had plenty of clearance. The pipe after the collector is at about 1" so in that area I covered the cable with wire heat insulation to be on the safe side. Sounds good. Thanks!
  8. Just following up for those that might be interested. Apparently, you can't bench test those temp sensors with a vacuum source, or at least not the way I tried it. The installed temp sensor is connected to vacuum on the running engine, and it's running fine ... does not seem to have caused a leak.
  9. Did you have any clearance issues with the MDL clutch cable and the Hooker headers? Looking into an FMX to T5 conversion with my 351C 4V and Hooker headers. They are not on MDLs list of compatible exhaust systems. Thanks!
  10. Looking for an intermittent wiper module, and a pair of the hinges for the heavier ram air hood. Thanks!
  11. OK. So, if I understand this correctly, one side of the temp sensor is supplied with manifold vacuum, and the other side goes to the snorkel vacuum motor. When the engine is cold, the temp sensor allows manifold vacuum to pull the motor door closed, routing warm air from above the exhaust manifold into the air cleaner. As the engine warms, the temp sensor closes vacuum to the snorkel motor, which opens the door to the cooler engine compartment air. If I have that right, here's my question ... Shouldn't the temp sensor hold vacuum? If I connect the manifold side to a vacuum source (tester), and I plug the other side, the temp sensor vacuum bleeds down quickly. I'm concerned if I hook the lines up on the engine, this will be the source of a vacuum leak. I have 2 of these temp sensors, and they both behave the same way. What am I missing? Thanks.
  12. Thanks for the link! Very helpful. Is the vacuum valve? with the 2 tubes in the center of the cleaner something that’s reproduced? If it’s available, I’d like to replace it.
  13. Does anyone know if the various air cleaner vacuum fittings are reproduced anywhere, and if so where you can find them? I know the small breather filter is available. I may have the others (you can see one in the pic), but they have seen better days. Thanks!
  14. Completed this project today. Car starts and runs good. Still needs a road test. But, for those using a P1 with factory tach and aftermarket carburetor, I thought I’d share what worked for me. I believe the brown wire may have originally connected to the solenoid on the factory carb. I repurposed it to feed the Pertronix relay. On my car, the voltage on this wire varies from 10-12 volts, but the relay works fine. The red wire I connected to the battery post on the starter solenoid. Thanks again for all the input.
  15. Thanks, Everyone. Yes, I intend to use the 1.5 ohm Flamethrower 1 coil. So, if I understand correctly, I should be able to perform a straight swap with the stock coil, same wiring as I have, and all should be fine? If so, that would be nice and easy.
  16. Hi All, Several threads out there on this topic, but didn’t come across one with a clear answer to these questions. When running a Pertronix 1 and a factory tachometer ... 1. Does the tach require use of the red/green wire with resistance from the ignition to the coil for proper function? A 12V source will not work and/or will damage the tach? Or, does the voltage going to the coil not matter for tach function? 2. Does the Flamethrower coil require a full 12V input to function as they suggest, or will it work off the voltage from the red/green wire? I currently have the P1 running off switched 12V power, and a stock coil using the red/green wire. I’m considering going to a Flamethrower coil, but need to understand how this would need connected for both the coil and the tach to function. Thanks!
  17. Thanks, rackerm. Interesting. I don’t have a Boss, but those look like the right colors.
  18. ? I like it! So, after quite a bit of work wet sanding with 600, I was finally able to reveal enough of the stripes to see the general color, although the whole thing needs refinished, so they will need to be repainted. From the transmission side, it looks like 3 large stripes (pink, red, and yellow), and then 2 smaller white stripes near the axle side. To get the actual color of each, I’m just going to have to estimate from pics on this site and others.
  19. Thanks, guys. Guess I’ll keep looking. In the meantime, this car is a 71 H-code with FMX, 3.0 open axle, if anyone happens to know the stripe config for that combination.
  20. Wow, rackerm! That turned out great! Good idea with the PVC pipe, also. Problem I have is the driveshaft is covered with a combination of undercoating, black paint, and rust. I was going over the top with lacquer thinner until I started to see the stripes underneath, and stopped. Still can’t make them out, though. If the evapo-rust would remove everything but the stripes, that would be great. Good question on the repair manuals, David. I’ll have to look. Thanks.
  21. Hi Everyone, was cleaning off the driveshaft yesterday and started to reveal the color stripe markings. Problem is, whatever is on the driveshaft is not going to come off without also removing the stripes. The build sheet was long gone when I bought the car. Is there a chart somewhere that lists the color and location of stripes by year and vehicle build? Thanks!
  22. This car had the stationary rear windows.I do have the dash switch bezels. Stationary quarter windows? I didn’t know there was such a thing! :) Now you have me wondering ... I just assumed I was missing the regulator parts. How can you tell? How much do you want for the set of bezels?
  • Create New...