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GonHuntin's Achievements


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  1. Me sensitive.....I'm not the one griping about someone else's choices. You asked me why we weren't swapping in a Coyote, I gave you the reasons and you didn't like it. Get over it, it's not your car! 1. I did not post the choice of engine for the swap until asked by another member, I should have ignored his question, because it had no bearing on the question I asked. I did not start the thread taunting anyone or "asking for some shit" and I don't appreciate it coming from you or anyone else. Fact is, it's none of your business what we do with his car, I didn't ask your opinion of putting an LS into the car, you decided to put it out there where it was not invited or wanted. I think it's funny that you are more worried about the manufacturer of engine going in the car than you are about butchering it to make a coyote fit! 2. The coyote engine is grossly oversize and overcomplicated for the cubic inches and the horsepower it produces. It reminds me of something the Germans would build......way over engineered for the performance it achieves.......it's kind of like the old Corvette LT5 ZR1 engine built by Mercury Marine......sure, it was a good engine, but it only made 405 hp in it's highest factory trim....way over engineered for the results. 3. Ok, so the advertised hp was 320.......there are lots of dyno results on stock '98 F-Body cars that prove that the engine was making more horsepower than advertised because the cars put down over 300 to the wheels.....fact is, they were putting out around 350 at the crank regardless of the "advertised hp rating". Do you think the Boss 429 really only made the 375 horsepower Ford advertised.....or do you believe the dyno testing that proved it made 600 or more?? How about the 428CJ that was advertised at 335 hp.....or the 1970 426 hemi which was advertised at 425hp but really made over 550??? It's fairly common knowledge that "advertised horsepower" is often fudged by the factory for various reasons. Again, please ignore this thread if you don't like it....I didn't post it for you.
  2. Only 300hp stock?? Sorry, that's just not true........the '98 LS f-body cars actually dyno over 300 at the tires.......not that difficult or expensive to make more power than the Coyote. By the time the tuner gets finished with it, it will be making 375+ at the crank and a cam and spring change would easily put it over 400hp.......all for far less than the same mods on a coyote. If the coyote is such a great swap.......why haven't YOU done it?? Look, I like older Ford muscle too.......but, I've done the math and two undeniable facts are clear......there is just no way you can put a coyote in the 71-73 without cutting it up.....and there is no way a coyote can make the same power as the LS for the same money. The LS will go in with no permanent changes to the car, will be dependable and make good power.......and the car won't care that it isn't powered by ford. Tell you what, you do what you want to your car and we will do what we want to do to my son's car. Now, if you have an answer to the question I initially asked, I'd appreciate your input, otherwise, it would probably be better if you ignored this thread.
  3. A coyote swap requires cutting out the shock towers which we do not want to do. An LS swap does not require any permanent changes to the car. The real question should be, why did Ford build such an oversized, underpowered turd like the Coyote?? I mean, really, it's wider than a Boss 429 and requires boost to make any power!!! ;-) Seriously, my son and I kicked this around for quite awhile.....we considered building a cleveland or 351 windsor, but he wanted an aluminum headed, roller cam motor with fuel injection. I have owned some cool fords including a street strip 12 second '67 fastback with cleveland and 4 speed back in the day. We couldn't buy a set of cleveland or windsor aluminum heads for what a complete used, all aluminum LS1 and T56 transmission cost!! He bought a complete running and driving LS, 6 speed Z28 donor car for $3k and he is recouping a lot of that as we part out the donor. The LS requires NO cutting of the mustang, is all aluminum, roller cammed, fuel injected, cheap to buy and will easily get 25+ mpg with the double overdrive T56......why wouldn't you use it?? If you look at the facts and get past brand loyalty, you would be stupid to choose the coyote over the LS. ;-)
  4. Doing an engine swap on my sons '73 and I need a smaller sending unit that will work with the water temp gauge.......could also use a smaller oil pressure sending unit for the same car. The engine going in the car has a 12mm thread where the water temp sender goes into the head. I can use the factory oil pressure sender if necessary, but I'd really like to have something more compact. Any ideas?? Any info on specification of the sending units so I can try to cross reference?? Thanks
  5. Go with aluminum heads.....theoretically, you can run more compression with aluminum and the Edelbrock heads should flow better than refurbished factory heads.
  6. I'm still waiting for a reply from Apex but a new and maybe better idea has entered the picture! A buddy called yesterday and asked if I could come by his shop and help for a few minutes. I was walking through his shop and noticed a clutch/brake pedal assembly laying in the floor and asked him what it was for......he said it was for a 2011 mustang. Later in the day, I got to thinking about the assembly and thought it might hold the perfect solution to the 71-73 mustang clutch master cylinder problem I am working on. I went back today and took a bunch of measurements and photos......my conclusion........I believe this clutch master cylinder is a simple and ridiculously easy solution. For those who don't know, on these cars, the clutch master is mounted to the pedal assembly under the dash. From what I can tell, the same master is used from 2005 to at least 2014, so they are common and relatively inexpensive. I took the clutch/brake pedal assembly for the '73 with me and did some measuring and comparison. I measured the distance from the clutch pedal pivot to the pin for the master cylinder, the overall length of the master cylinder and piston rod, the stroke length and the angle of the master cylinder mounting. Everything I have seen so far tells me that a simple bracket is all it would take to mount this master cylinder to the pedal assembly for the '73. Mounting the master cylinder under the dash will allow retention of the factory brake booster and access to the clutch master for service should be easier on the '73 than on the 2011. I still need to do some research to find out if this master cylinder will put out the correct volume of fluid for the hydraulic throwout bearing I will be using (4th gen GM f-body T56)......if that proves to be compatible, I will move forward with building the bracket to mount the cylinder, drilling the clutch pedal at the correct location and making a pin and spacer to attach the piston rod. I will try to document everything for those who are interested.
  7. Thanks to everyone who has replied so far......I have learned more in this thread than in all the searching I did before I made the original post. Hopefully anyone and everyone with additional information will jump into the discussion. Just sent an e-mail to Apex to see if they have any good info/suggestions.
  8. Thanks Go Time! Chuck I did a search for Tilton 6000 and it came up as a hydraulic throw out bearing??
  9. Spent quite a bit of time searching past threads here and anything I could find on the net....thought I'd ask to see if there is any updated info out there?? If you are using a hydraulic clutch master cylinder, I'd appreciate info on whether you are using a kit or a home brew and the details......also, did your conversion work with factory power brake booster or did you replace the factory booster with something else? Details?? Any first hand info would be appreciated......even the failures! I am really only interested in the clutch master cylinder parts of the conversion......we will be using a T56 with hydraulic throwout bearing, so we have that part covered. Extra points for photos!! :D Thanks, Mark
  10. Not yet. I would have already ordered them, but they are for my son's car and he is the one who has to pay for them! We will be doing other things to the car until he can afford to buy the quarters.
  11. Well, that's more info than I had, thanks!! Do the body lines look right?? Are marker light holes in the right place?? Where did you buy yours?? Can you post a photo of the top of the quarter?
  12. Has anyone used the 71-73 convertible full quarter panels from dynacorn?? Just wondering about the quality and how well they fit??
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