secluff

Hello Bufus, The following part info is what was OE for the front spoiler on the Boss 351. The Ford part number is (40953-S8) and is 1/4" - 20 X 3/4". This screw is a self-tapping hexagon washer head screw with a zinc-plated finish. You can probably find these at your local hardware store. If you can't find them, AMK products offer a set of 14 under their part# F-977. These are more than likely available at your favorite Mustang parts vendor and are often referenced to the AMK number. Keep in mind that aftermarket finishes may not be the same as the Ford original hardware.

Hello Cribbs74 The 4sp was only available in the '71 429 and '71-73 351 4bl equipped Mustangs. A 3sp was the only available manual transmission choice for the 302. At $1000, that sounds like an excellent parts car purchase. The pedal hanger and associated hardware on a manual transmission car are worth that alone. Please keep us posted on how everything goes and when you get your treasure find home!

Hello Geoff, Glad to help when I can. Sometimes things like the accelerator pedal and cable are not given a lot of thought since they are only a small part of the thousands of parts on a car. Sorta like the broken five-dollar bolt that grounds a multi-million dollar aircraft. Then you find out about service part replacements, running changes on the assembly line, and major changes during or close to model year change over. Also wanted to tell you when you check the part number on the Green Sales site to not use any spaces between the prefix and suffix when entering the basic part number. Ford (and most vendor sites) used a dash, hyphen, or a comma to separate the prefix and suffix from the basic number. If not properly formatted the site will show no stock. I would also suggest that you check with Don @ OMS if looking for an accelerator pedal with the brackets. A few years back bkdunha was looking for a replacement pedal for his immaculate '72 Mach 1 as he prepared for an MCA national show. Don had several of the three different pedals used and could also let you know if there were any size or shape differences between the '73 and earlier pedals. If Don no longer has them, Mike at Motor City Mustang could probably help you as he also has parts cars. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you need any additional info.

Hello Geoff, Sorry to hear you had a problem with your car... which is also at the same time all your Chevy buddies will just happen to drive by and give you words of encouragement! I hate to say things like "That has never happened to me" cause you do know what will happen next. I don't know how my pewter Mach 1 (Money Pitt #1) ever survived me. I was involved in a lot of very illegal late-night drag racing at one time. Since I ran against some big-block cars, I had the pedal more than firmly mashed to the floor. Besides the indentation of the pedal in the vinyl insert part of the carpet, I broke the black plastic part of the pedal twice, but never the cable. The original OE throttle cable is D1ZZ-9A758-D @ 22.50". It was replaced by D1ZZ-9A758-H @ 22.50". Both of these are eyelet and clip style. Although the part number never changed, there was a running change on the accelerator pedal assembly where some over-travel brackets were added. Money Pitt #1 is a late build car (7-28-71) that has the brackets on the accelerator pedal, so evidently, that modification was the fix for overstressing the cable. An additional change took place in late '72 production (6-19-72) where the '73 style accelerator pedal and cable were now OE. The D3ZZ-9A758-C cable is 23.25" and attached to the accelerator with a snap-in grommet. A much easier solution for those of us that are not quite as limber and with perfect eyesight as we processed...... a "few" years ago! I have a couple of sources you can check since the repo cables don't seem reliable. I have used them before but can't guarantee reasonable prices. Both of these vendors specialize in NOS parts obtained from Ford and Ford Lincoln/Mercury dealers, so they understand the value of NOS versus repo parts. Green Sales shows one and NOS Parts shows two. Not sure how often their inventory is updated but that is what is shown today. https://nospartsltd.com/product/d1zz9a758h/ http://www.greensalescompany.com/ If you haven't already found a cable you could contact these two sources to check the availability. If these don't pan out let me know. I have one other source that shows D1ZZ-D and H but can be a PIA to deal with and I only use as a last resort! The red arrows point to the brackets on the "new and improved" D1ZZ-9725-A Second picture illustrates the grommet hole on the D3ZZ-9725-A

There were three different trim rings utilized for the 71-3 Mustang. The 14" x 6" wheel used D0DZ-1210-A (D0DA-A, B) This trim ring was sourced from the '70/ Maverick. The 14" x 7" wheel used D0ZZ-1210-B (D0ZA-B, E). This trim ring was sourced from the '70 Mustang. The 15" x 7" wheel used D0ZZ-1210-C (D0ZA-1210-D, G). This trim ring was sourced from the '70 Boss 302 which was the first of the first generation Mustangs to use a 15" x 7" steel rim. All trim rings had a brushed finish. Ford did not use a bright or chrome finish trim ring on these wheels. There was a running change on the valve stem hole. There were reports from the field that the original trim ring with the round hole was cutting and damaging the valve stem when removed for maintenance. Engineering released new trim rings with an oval or "Racetrack" shaped hole that made removing the trim ring easier without damaging the valve stem. The center cap dog dishes were the same size regardless of rim size. The difference is a brushed finish for trim ring-equipped cars and a shiny or chrome finish for non-trim ring vehicles. The 15" trim rings were only utilized from 1970-72 on the Mustang and 70-71 on the Torino. So finding a nice set 50 years later can be a frustrating and expensive search. What rims were standard and optional was dependent on how the vehicle was equipped. Different body styles, standard and optional equipment weights, all were factors on the wheel and tire size. At one time Ford restricted the use of Magnum wheels on the '71 Torino. They were not available on station wagons, any model with a 6 cyl engine, or any model with a 429 and AC. A lot of this came about because of the safety related limitations of the F60 X 15" tires and the additional weight of different models and equipment combinations.

Murdoc, I wouldn't put a lot of concern into what you see for oil specs on those 50-year-old dipsticks. The engineering number is more important as it is used to cross to the correct part number and verify the application. The SE-101 B, C, etc, is nothing more than '70s era lubrication specifications. This was an evolution of the ever-changing formulation that was required for the engine oil to meet the emissions of the era and a then, 6000-mile change interval. The SE category would indicate "S" as a gasoline engine oil and "E" as meeting 1971-1979 model year requirements. (SF would cover 1980-88) The second letter would constantly change as emissions control devices would put more load and heat on these engines, making oiling even more critical. For my '71 M code, the Ford spec is ESE-M2C101-B, for a '72 Q code Gran Torino is ESE-M2C101-C. I normally pour about 1/2 quart of oil into my oil filter before installing it (very quickly). That's something I miss on my FE engines with the filter setting straight up on the filter adapter. I eventually stopped checking my five-quart engines after an oil change. I knew 5 quarts were the factory fill and that was exactly what I had poured into them. When I did check the level it always showed full. (Sounds a little lazy, doesn't it)?!

Hello Murdoc, Not a dumb question. There is a lot of experience and knowledge here and asking questions is how we all learn. If you have a Ford passenger car that was not equipped with a performance engine (428,429 CJ/SCJ, Boss 302,351,429) then the factory fill is 5 quarts WITH filter. Whether it held a quart or not, Ford oil change capacities always allowed for 1 quart for the filter. The Ford oil change specification chart used by shop techs would show 4 quarts, 5 with filter when changing the oil on a standard 351. I know everyone doesn't have access to a vehicle lift. I used a set of ramps for years. The optimum procedure would be for the car to be level so all the oil drains back to the sump and none is in the shallow end because of the car angle. I always changed my oil with a warm engine so the oil would drain thoroughly. After refilling the engine I would crank and run the engine long enough to check for any leaks. After shutdown, I would wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the pan and then check the level. The original dipstick is D0AZ-6750-A and would be marked "D0AE-A". It was replaced by D5AZ-6750-B which would be stamped with "D5AE-AB". The dipstick tube was the same for all '70-74 351Cs. The only dimension that is given in the Ford Master Parts Catalog (MPC) is the 18 1/4" overall length. You may have to check the length from the flange where it seats to the block against a known correct tube. I hope you get everything sorted out.

The Mexican GT351 Mustangs were not American-built and therefore did not have a typical U.S.-type VIN or have to meet the emissions, safety, or any other standards that U.S.-built vehicles had to meet. These bodies were shipped to Mexico as incomplete or Knock Down kits with no VIN. Most people didn't even know these cars existed until a few years ago so accurate info was more than difficult to obtain. What pictures I have seen do show a Mach1 style cap. Since the version with the inside twist cap is an aftermarket item that was not available in the '70s, it wouldn't be original to your GT351. You can see the definite appearance differences between it and the cap on your Mach1. The VIN on yours should start with AF01 with the next two letters defining the year and month of manufacture and the next five numbers the consecutive serial number. And by the way...you have some nice vehicles in your fleet.

Any flip-down style fuel cap with an inner twist-on cap is aftermarket as Ford never released any such setup. There were some early '72 Mach 1's that did make it out the door with the flip-down cap. (Just like the 4bl Ram Air cars) Since this was a running change, there is no way to give an exact day the switch was made to the 72/ twist on cap. When '72 production started the flip-down filler cap was still part of the Mach 1 package. Although the Ford part number never changed, the '71 era cap was marked Autolite and had a "D1ZA". prefix. Since Ford was in the process of transitioning from Autolite to Motorcraft in '72, the OE installed flip-down caps could have either brand name and have a "D2ZA" engineering prefix. Ford was still locking horns with the Government over the '71 cap issue. During some accidents and rollovers, the cap was not sealing as well as the twist on caps and was experiencing fuel spillage issues. The '71 caps were revised four times and still did not resolve the leaking problem. All the revised 72 sales brochures and order guides I have (as of 1/72) show the twist style cap on the Mach 1. Since several new emissions and safety-related laws were going into effect on January '72 I can only guess that is when Ford changed the cap and got the Feds off their back. Little did they all know, the Pinto issue was yet to come!

The competition suspension was standard on the Mach1 (regardless of engine size), '71-72 Boss/HO, C and J 429's. The competition suspension was an option on all other Mustangs except the 250 6 cyl and was a mandatory option on any F60x15" equipped Mustang. The staggered rear shocks and rear stabilizer bar were not a stand-alone option but were included with all 71-73 4bl engines. The plate that allowed the right shock to be placed in front of the axle housing is not included in non-4bl cars. For 1972 only, the ram air style hood was standard for the Q engine regardless of body style.

Hello Ken, Unfortunately, that was a common problem with the 4300 series carburetors. I had to replace the carburetor on a '72 Q code Gran Torino Sport that the previous owner must have rebuilt with a baseball bat and hammer. I ordered it from the Ford dealer so it was a new Motorcraft and not a parts house knockoff from China. It ran for about a week before I noticed a strong fuel smell. Thinking I had not tightened the hose to the fuel filter properly, I removed the air cleaner and discovered fuel pouring out from the front of the carburetor where the plug is. Ford eventually released a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this issue. It explained that the plug was used to seal a hole that was used during the manufacturing process to drill the fuel inlet passage. The repair kit contained a new plug and a two-part Loctite fuel-resistant epoxy compound. The TSB was explicit on the proper cleaning of the inlet passage and the cure time for the epoxy. The repair worked, as I never had another fuel leak and I did check it regularly. A couple of years later, I ordered a new Motorcraft 4300-D for my 429 Torino. When I removed it from the carton I noticed it had the same sealant around the plug. It never leaked so the fix worked.

Wow, Chris that turned out great. The P/S bracket on my cars was also unpainted, so that is a mirror image of what was on my Mustangs and Torinos. Except for a few Saginaw applications, this was the corporate PS pump for automotive and light truck applications from 65/ until the Ford C II pump was used starting in 1978. With the sheer volume of pumps and components used during this time frame, it's not surprising to find two different color metal reservoirs for production and service parts. The teal pumps on my '71 Mustangs and '72 Torinos were original to those cars.

73MustangCoup, Those holes definitely had the gnawed look! All those non-factory holes could have been for a 007 Bond tribute vehicle. Smokescreen, oil spray on the road, or even the previously mentioned ejection seat! Your dash looks great. That's a very professional-looking repair. @MikeGriese, if you checked off all the right boxes, there were all kinds of nice options available on our vehicles. Even when converted to 2021 $$ they are still bargains. When coupes and sports roofs were ordered with the optional rear window defroster, they would be an "ON" indicator lamp to the left of the defroster switch as David had mentioned. That would also provide another mystery hole for someone to figure 20-30 years from now!

Hello griffbl, The script emblem was used on all 72-73 non-Mach 1 model deck lids. While they are similar in appearance, the fender emblems are a different part number from the deck lid version. The fender script was sourced from the '69 Mustang, while the deck lid version is a 72-73 only part. They are held in place with some barrel nut retainers which usually have a pretty tight grip on the emblem pins. If the floss trick doesn't work you will need to use the plastic molding tool David mentioned. If you get the trunk lid David has, you wont have to worry about the emblem and might be able to recoup some of your costs if you decide to sell it. There is definitely a market for rust free OE sheet metal parts. The illustrations show the pin locations on the deck lid emblem and couple of versions of the several service parts barrel nuts Ford used.

Considering the sheer volume of vendors Ford dealt with, pumps with black housings were entirely possible. I know some of the over-the-counter new p/s service pumps we sold were a mix between teal and black. Both of my 71 "M" Mach1's ( 9/21/70 and 7/28/71) and all three 72 Gran Torino's (2 Q and one 429) had the teal Ford Thompson pump. Anything I bought new after that had the Ford pump with the black plastic housing. If looking for the teal/blue paint, NPD is the only source I've found. https://www.npdlink.com/product/power-steering-pump-paint-enamel-exact-match-dark/143996?backurl=sea