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secluff

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  1. Hello Ray, Due to some Covid related family issues, I haven't posted here for a while but visit occasionally. The '73 Mach 1 pictures you posted really look great. I bet that red pops in person. You sure they didn't place it with the Dodge Challengers since our cars are often mistaken for them?!! Most of the time, I don't look at the '73s very long since I favor the look of the sport lamp grill on the '71 and '72s. This one is nice! With the Tu-tone hood and locks at an almost giveaway price of $18.00, it's almost rare to see a '73 without that option. I like "Write me a ticket red", so all that expanse of red looks good to me. If it is original, the owner sure has taken care of her. Having the original flex duct and hot air tube to the exhaust manifold is a good indication of care. I've seen some babied "Garage Queens" with those parts deteriorated. If going for the Concourse level look, the only things I saw that I would address would be to install turn-down exhaust tips and replace the Magnums with the forged aluminum wheels. I have seen so many of these cars just absolutely beat to death and modified to the point of no return; this one sure is a nice change of pace. If you happen to see it again, some interior, underhood, and door certification label shots would be great. At least he is open to "Or Best Offer" and not "I know what I've got, no low ball offers.
  2. Hello JimB73, The park brake warning lamp was not available separately but was part of the Convenience Group option, available for all 71-73 Mustangs. It included trunk, glove compartment, map, underhood lamps, headlamps on warning buzzer, automatic seat back release, under instrument panel courtesy lamps (standard on verts), park brake warning lamp, and locking glovebox latch. This option was a lot of content in '73 for $45.53. The switch has changed part number several times over the years with F2UZ-15A851-A as the final version and is still available from Ford. I usually suggest Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply, but his site shows out of stock. You could also check with your favorite parts house by application or crossing the Ford part # to theirs. The illustration shows the switch location held in place by a #10-24 x 1" screw. The second hole is for the locator/anti-rotation stud.
  3. I know the quality of the plastic rear windows (also called rear curtains) has improved over the years, but they can still yellow and scratch over time. Ford had an industry first with the folding rear glass on the 67-70 Mustangs. Then in '71, Ford released a new semi-flexible (their description) single-piece tempered glass that would flex when lowered. And like the folding glass version, the top could be lowered without unzipping the glass. I prefer the glass window for the OE look. Good luck on either way you decide to go!
  4. Doug, The JL code is a rim used for the space saver in the mid-size line such as Torino, LTD II, T-Bird, Montego, and Cougar through '79. The tire used for those applications is H78 x 14" like on the rim you have. This rim has been around with different part numbers, code IDs, width sizes, and ratings since first used in the '68 Mustang. This rim would fit the Mustang, but the H-78 size is a bit larger than the F-78 size specified by Ford. The JL rim is 14 x 5 1/2" with the width measured where the bead of the tire sets inside the rim lip. The date code on these rims is first position-year, second-wheel manufacturer, third-month. The six would indicate 1976, and M would be Motorwheel Corp. For the month, you need to recheck for another letter. Ford occasionally used a 24-month calendar (leaving out the I and O) for the month codes. The problem here is that the rim is compatible with a Mustang, but the tire is too large for a Concours level Mustang. Spacer Saver tire size is something that MCA (Mustang Club of America) would check at a judged class show. These tires, regardless of size, are also not safe to be used for any actual spare tire duty. I know some Dodge, Plymouth, and AMC vehicles also used the F-78 x 14" space saver size and struggle to find show-worthy tires. To my knowledge, no F or H78 x 14" space-saver tire is being reproduced at this time. Your tire would work for someone with a Mustang if they wanted a space saver regardless of tire size. If you get no hits here, I would try the 68-79 Fairlane-Torino site.
  5. Hello Batwrangler, It looks like before we get through with you, you'll know more than you ever thought you would want to know about these "Clydesdales." (and valve covers) As Spike noted, the valve cover in your photo is the Ford Motorsport (now Ford Racing Parts) chrome cover that Motorsport sold for many years. I sold so many of those that I still remember the part # and sell price (M-6582-C351R @ $54.95)! They were discontinued years ago and were a great deal then. The oiling fingers mentioned earlier are the oil baffles that are spot welded to the inside of the valve covers. They provided the same function as the rocker arm-mounted baffles in the '71/ 351C engines. The rocker arm baffles were not utilized in '70, so those one-year-only blue covers had the spot-welded valve cover baffles. The '69-70 Boss 302 chrome covers also had spot-welded oil baffles and had slight differences in the shape around the oil cap area between the two years. This minute difference makes each year cover unique and worth $$$ to the serious Boss 302 parts collectors. The '70 style aluminum covers had the same oil baffle/fingers but were held in place with small screws and could be removed for use on a non-Boss engine. I discovered the interference Spike noted when I attempted to install a pair of aluminum covers on my '71 Mach 1. The "Power By Ford" valve covers was used through early to mid '73 when a Ford oval-only version was phased in. The illustrations are the '70 only blue cover, the under side of the chrome Boss cover with the "fingers", and the two different versions of the chrome '69 (left) and '70 Boss covers. That way, if you happen to see any of them while part scrounging, you'll know what they are!
  6. Doug, the tire size you listed would indicate a fit for a larger car than Mustangs, mid-size and small vehicles used. The sizes most common to the mustangs were 7.35 x 14, 7.75 x 14, and F78-14. Through out the '70s, Ford used many of these space saver tires in the Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury lines until the donut spare became the new small spare tire in the 80s. These space saver spares were standard on some models, optional on others, and included with specific vehicle configurations, so way too many possibilities to guess. See if you can find a stamped letter(s) by the valve stem and also check the bolt circle to verify if a 5 x 4.5 or a 5 on 5 bolt circle. With that info, I can help you can make a more positive ID.
  7. Hello Batwrangler, You should have enough info now to verify what heritage your '73 has. Your chrome "Powered By Ford" valve covers are more than likely chrome plated original blue covers. There were no standard or optional chrome valve covers offered by Ford for the '71-73s. The closest production cover would be the chrome "Powered By Ford" valve covers on the '69 Boss 302 and some early production '70 Boss cars. They had the oiling fingers since those were solid lifter engines. To my knowledge, Ford never released a service part number for these and was discontinued when the finned aluminum covers were released that we usually see on '70 302 and '71 Boss 351 engines. These are rare valve covers. I won't get into the numerous part and engineering numbers on the pre '73 engines as you can about drown in a soup of numbers. As Don C mentioned, occasionally, Ford would use a casting number for other applications, which would drive number chasers crazy. I've witnessed some very heated discussions between some Boss 351 owners who claim to have found different ID numbers on their original engines. Checking for cylinder head identification can be as much as a PIA as finding out what our Government is hiding in area 51. As Don noted, it required pulling the intake as the ID is under the intake port on the head. I bet the engineers still get a good chuckle over that. If your engine is original to your Mach 1, then the heads would be marked D3ZE-AA. That head had the 4bl port size, smaller 2bl valves, and a 75.4cc combustion chamber. (CC number varies by information source). The price of the illuminated I phone scopes has come down where they are now an affordable tool and can be used as Don suggested doing a main cap bolt count. Unless your vehicle had an engine change or some Ford repair work at some time, then you should get some good answers. At the end of 351C production, the D0AZ-6010-C (2 bolt block) became the service replacement block as inventory was depleted. You can verify your engine as OE by checking the left rear of the block right below where the cylinder head mates to the block. If original, there should be a partial VIN starting with "3F" and the six numbers from your consecutive serial number. A good light, mirror, or camera/phone, and the skills of a contortionist will help. Just a word of caution, don't think you are going blind if you can't read them easily. Some were stamped perfectly legible, and some you couldn't read with the engine out of the car. Good luck with your mission!
  8. Hello batwrangler, I assume you are referring to the 351 4bl VS 351CJ debate. The difference....not a lot. It's was all a name game with some creative terminology by Ford and the other manufactures. The engines did receive engineering upgrades to make them compliant with each current model year emissions requirements. The '72 Q engine content never changed in '72, which is also when the engine's name changed. I owned a 12/71 built '72 Q code Gran Torino which had the chrome CJ air cleaner lid and CJ on all the paperwork. My 5/72 built Q code '72 Sport had 351 4Bl on a chrome air cleaner lid and other paperwork. Same engines, but a well-orchestrated game was going on with the renaming of these engines. The 65-72 Ford Master parts catalog (MPC) identified the 351 Q as a CJ. The 73-79 catalog referred to the 351 Q as a 351 4bl. There were some occasional references to the CJ engine in some 73-74 service manuals, but the shop techs knew they were all "Q" engines regardless of what someone called them. The 71-74 engines used the same style block (machined for 2 or 4 bolt mains), crank, cam, springs, etc., with the 73-74 engines receiving cylinder head, intake, and piston changes to accommodate the new EGR systems. The manufactures desire to move away from any reference to performance had a lot to do with the CJ name disappearance from air cleaner lids, window stickers, and all other printed matter. With gas prices changing almost hourly, economy, not performance, was the new word for the day! The government was always busy protecting us from ourselves, and the insurance companies watched the Big Three closely. They wanted to make sure we were offered cars with the same excitement level of a new toaster oven but were slow, safe, and got better fuel mileage than those fuel guzzling loud performance cars we all loved! Hope this is the answer you were looking for. If not, will have to hit the reset button and start over!
  9. Hello Bobby, As already posted, this subject has surfaced occasionally since I have been a member here. Unless you have a concourse-level show car or want your vehicle to be in an as-built condition, I would not use an original spacer saver tire as a spare now. The rubber is way past the manufacturer's expiration date, and replacement inflater cylinders are next to impossible to find. The space-saver spares were utilized on several models through 1980. Unfortunately, the inflator cylinders were discontinued for those in '95 as demand went to zero after the new "Donut" mini spares became more common. As David posted, people were trying to reinflate the space saver with an air hose and were overinflating them, causing them to blow up. A costly mistake for some who didn't want to spend the price of a new inflator canister. There was a recall to install a safety pop-off valve. There was never a stand-alone option for the space-saver spare. It was included on any model equipped with F60 x 15" tires with steel rims, 15" Magnums, or fold down (sport seat) in a sports roof. My red Mach1 (Money Pit #2) has the F60 x 15" tire option on steel rims (a $49.36 option). It has a single spare tire bracket with the canister holder on the right side of the trunk, as in David's photo. I have heard of some models with both brackets, but it is a screw-up in the body shop as the car went through the buck process. I have heard of some members in the past using Crown Victoria spares. Other make vehicles have the Ford 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern; just a matter of finding the wheel where there is no interference with front-end components. If ever in a salvage yard, look at some of the new model Ford products as some of them had aluminum spare tire rims. It would be worthwhile to check into Chuck's suggestion to use the body panel bond adhesive to mount a standard spare tire bracket. You could test it on some scrap metal first if you are not sure of the adhesive strength. Anything to avoid dropping the fuel tank would be great. If you had to make an emergency stop or hard maneuver, a loose spare could cause some serious damage.
  10. Hello MKSpeedlab, I always hated the telescoping antenna on my 71's. When fully extended, it looked like something that belonged on a CB radio-equipped car. Over time water would work its way into the mast and cause poor reception. Some stations you couldn't pick up even if you were sitting outside their front door! They also were a favorite target of parking lot vandals. Since radios were not standard on our cars, the fenders did not have a factory pre-punched antenna hole. The shop tec drilled those during the PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection) process. Unless they saved the antenna template from the factory radio kit, they didn't always go in the correct location, and the drilled holes were not always pretty! If equipped with the correct antenna, '71s would have a telescoping antenna, '72s a telescoping and fixed mast. (During 1972 production, Ford phased the '73 style fixed mast antenna into production) and for '73s, a fixed non-removable mast. If not concerned about being concourse correct, a detachable mast antenna (Like on the Fox Mustangs) is available. It is perfect for those who cover their cars and don't want to cut an antenna hole or find one with an antenna pocket. It would be the ideal fix for someone like yourself with a lift and tight ceiling space. It would also eliminate the need to delete your antenna and the related fender repair. Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply sells this type of product. He is a forum member/vendor here and knows these cars as well as anyone. Give him a call or check his online store. https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1841
  11. Hello Omie01, The rubber bumper on the door latch control was not serviced separately and was never assigned a part number. I would try the rubber bumper on the glove box door as Chuck suggested. If it fits or needs to be shaved or massaged a little, then you could order the ones listed in the link. You might check and see if there is a minimum order. I used Virginia Classic Mustang for the owner's toy box full of Mustangs at work and always received excellent service. I believe Don (Ohio Mustang Supply) also sells these. You might want to go ahead and make a "While I'm there, I might as well" list since shipping charges on such a small part will be more than the part. That way, you'll have an excuse to order more "stuff."
  12. The Eminger report is one of the copies of the actual invoice sent along with the car when delivered by Motor Convoy to the Dealer. They list all the standard equipment and production installed options. The invoice included retail, dealer cost, shipping, holdback, X Y Z D purchase plan prices, and several other categories. It enabled the Dealer to get the vehicle inventoried and into their accounting system. I have also seen some of them on newer models with the FA and FB key codes. If it isn't on the invoice, it didn't leave the assembly plant with it. Since the Eminger/Ford invoice is an original Ford document, I would consider it one of the most accurate reports to have on your vehicle. Accessories were the Cash Cow for Dealers and aftermarket installers (and still is now). So a lot of Ford and aftermarket items found their way onto our four-wheel friends. If installed before sold, dealers would add an Addendum label listing items added to the vehicle since it was against federal law to alter the original window or Monroney Sticker. Another reason for having the original Ford invoice is how many items are claimed as original production installed by non-original owners when they were Dealer installed. Without a verifying document such as the Ford invoice, it's a "He said, She said" argument. I have several of them for my vehicles, so they are excellent reports to have. As far as tracking down the original owner, that is no longer an easy task. As a second owner, I was fortunate to have been able to talk to both original owners of my two money pits. It's probably safe to say that many selling dealers are no longer in business, changed owners (several times), or changed locations. As dealers transitioned to computers in the 70s and 80s, mountains of paperwork were discarded. I know the policy where I was at was to keep the deal jackets for 5-7 years and shred them since they contained personal and financial information. With the privacy laws, obtaining any information from the DMV, courthouse tax records, etc., is next to impossible. For entertainment purposes, you could try your DMV or the Dealer listed on the Marti report. It doesn't cost anything for them to tell you NO!!
  13. Since I had received a PM recently about the Ford spoiler pedestals, I would like to add this additional info if other forum members had any questions about the OE style rear spoiler. The pedestals were never released separately as a service part, so there was never a part number assigned to them by Ford. (The same thing on the '69 and 70 spoilers) Telling someone they had to purchase a spoiler to get a replacement pedestal was not always a pleasant experience. If your pedestal is a genuine Ford piece, it should have a D1ZB-6344226-AWA engineering number cast on the underside. Ford discontinued the spoiler kit in 1981, so NOS parts are scarce. As Hemikiller posted, repo pedestals are available for the '71-73's that I believe are die-cast metal. It's hard to believe that there is yet another repo part available for the '71-73s.
  14. Hello Mike, Ford exported Mustangs to Germany from 1965 through early '79 as T-5's. I believe the last company that owned the Mustang brand went out of business so later '79 and forward Mustangs were once again Mustangs in Germany. The '71-73 T-5 utilized the same tail light lens as the US models. Any lens or lamp, regardless if park, sport, side marker, taillight, reverse, would have a Ford oval and some ID number or mark. As Don C stated, these lenses don't appear to have the optics to make them DOT compliant. I have seen lights and lens advertised for other make vehicles over the years that clearly state for "Off-road or show car use only." Maybe these lenses were offered years ago for the same type of application. I just have not seen these on a '71-73 before, and I've been around these cars long enough to remember seeing them come off the transport trucks.
  15. Rich, Good catch on this one. If this vert were an export model, it would have the unique DSO# we all know to look for on the door label. Since other countries have so many different requirements and regulations, the DSO records at Ford would have the list of modifications and special equipment sent with the vehicle when Ford exported it. Regardless of domestic or export models, all parts would have a Ford oval and ID numbers or markings. Since there is no special DSO, I would vote on some creative prior owner mods. With 3D printers becoming more affordable and readily available now, it's effortless for someone to design and print these sorts of projects. As Geoff suggested, there is probably an LED light panel hiding under those lenses. LED circuit boards with programmable colors have been on the market for a while. Don C's comment on the lens material appearance did remind me of the fluorescent light diffuser lens I used to install "Back in the day." As Don noted, they are probably not DOT compliant. The reverse lamps are the same style as used on the 65-70 Mustangs. 1965-68 used the lens with the circular diffuser pattern. The '69-70 had a horizontal pattern. The only way to verify the actual lamp body would be to look at the reverse side of the body for an engineering #. Due to valence panel shape differences, the lamp bodies differed for 65-66, 67-68, and 69-70. They are similar in appearance, but a side-by-side comparison would show the differences. On this vert, I noticed that with the bumper guards, Mach 1 style rear valence with the exhaust cutouts and chrome exhaust tips, rear spoiler, stripes, and bumper hitch, things are looking a little......Busy!
  16. Chuck, you possess some serious search skills or have some great contacts. I have a few that have always provided me with some great results, but lots of zeros this time! Many of these parts, especially for performance models, are becoming increasingly difficult to find in OE configuration as these cars continue to age! I feel lots of oil pans were discarded with "ventilation" holes in them and busted front covers. There is an early version oil pan used on the 429 Police, CJ-SCJ (D0OZ-6675-B), but for some reason was only used through 12/70. The replacement was the D0OZ-6675-D which was also a baffled pan like the "B." Surprisingly, the "D" pan was in the Ford parts system until the C8SZ-6675-A replaced it in 1/87. The C8SZ pan was used on the 429 T-Bird and 460 Lincoln Mark III when the 385 series engines debuted for the 1968 model year. And to think I whined when I had to pay $56.55 for a new Ford pan for my 429 Torino. (Hear that song "If I Only Knew Then What I Know Now). I sure hope it's the pan Mike needs, and the requested pictures verify it. The C8SZ-6019-A (C8SE-A, B) front cover is almost in the extinct category. Many were damaged by removing seized bolts during timing chain or water pump replacements. The replacing D2VZ-A (D2VB-AA) show up occasionally but are becoming harder to find new. The final 460s in the car line were production installed in '78, so any further replacements would be sourced from the truck 460. That took place in '85 when the E5TZ-6019-A replaced the D2VZ-A. There have been multiple replacements since, far too many to list here. The only C8SZ-A I have found is a used one on E-Bay with the typical thin spot/hole in the casting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304116573402?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D9e95c51526884feda7ff54f67ae93a49%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D164241121746%26itm%3D304116573402%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042 Although Mike stated he is looking for the C8SZ version, I did see a D2VZ version also on E-Bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164241121746?epid=1652117951&hash=item263d88a1d2:g:qsEAAOSwQo5e4pyd Good luck with your search Mike
  17. Hello John, Those small plastic pieces at the upper rear of the fender are what Ford called a "Front Fender Filler." They were production installed until 6/1/71. After that date, the engineers decided they were no longer needed. The 71 Cougar also used the same piece, and they can be difficult to find since many of them have deteriorated over time and were not installed for the entire production year. Part number for the right side is D1ZZ-16570-A (ID# D1ZB-16570-AA,AB,AE) Left side D1ZZ-16571-A (ID# D1ZB-16571-AA,AB,AE). As you can see, there were three suffix number changes on the engineering number, but the part number never changed. For some reason, Ford continued to use a similar filler at the rear of the front fender for the 72-76 T-Birds. As previously posted, there was a small run of these made and sold on E-Bay, but with an inflated price since the word "Boss" was used in the description. The used set for $60.00 + shipping is the cheapest I had seen any of these offered in quite some time. These rarely show up in any decent used condition. As Don C posted, when you get a chance, please tell us some more about yourself and the plans you have for your '71.
  18. Hello Chuck, Hard to add any info to anything you or Don C post. All of your posts are always thorough and accurate. The date code does verify that this particular differential came from a '78 F100/150 series truck with 28 spline axles. This housing saw duty from '73-78. The '79 version became a little more complicated with variables such as tapered roller bearing or ball bearing and 3/8 or 1/2" backing plate mount holes. The lower right, "351 B," was also the plant code. Nice to see something of this age with the tag still on it. It reminds me of many exasperating encounters with beat to H*ll farm trucks and clueless mechanics. They would usually bring in a box of busted parts with a burnt oil and raw sewage aroma, with no tag, serial number, or differential code off the data plate. If you were lucky, they might add that they are pretty sure it's a Ford. '79 and prior, Ford did not use production dates on truck applications but utilized before and after serial number ranges. If you did not sell the truck when new and they don't know where it was sold originally...Good Luck!! OK, I'm done!
  19. Hello Ken, Sorry for a very delayed response. Due to a storm last night, I lost internet service until just recently. I see where you have decided on the type of repair you want to do. Here is what I almost got to post last night!! I was in a similar dilemma when installing a "New and Much Improved" 429 in my '72 N code Gran Torino Sport. My AC compressor clutch was damaged beyond repair. The only parts car I had at the time was a '73 H code Mach 1. I noticed the differences in the pully and counterweight between the two engines and regrouped. It was already too easy to blow up a York compressor (ask me how I know that!), and I didn't want to chance it with a pully/clutch assy not listed for that application. You had mentioned that the engineers felt the 429 could absorb the power drain of the clutch engaging better than the smaller displacement engines. That became an issue on the newer model vehicles when only 4, 6, and smaller displacement V8's were available in the car lines. The clutches you'll see now have what looks like rubber blocks which are absorbers to minimize the surging felt when the clutch engaged on an already struggling engine! The bearing you need is Ford C9AZ-2990-A (Motorcraft YP-20), and NPD in Flordia shows inventory on that bearing. If you have a favorite parts store, you might see if they can cross the Ford/ Motorcraft part number or industry number 5106WCC. Online sources such as Rock Auto and E-Bay usually have these types of bearings listed. I have also used Green Sales (800-543-4959) http://www.greensalescompany.com/, specializing in NOS/Obsolete Ford parts. They showed 19 C9AZ-2990-A in inventory. When Ford discontinued the C9AZ-2990-A/YP-20 and the replacing C9AZ-19D666-A/YP-20-A in the mid-'90s, the retail price was $28.85, so the prices now are not in the crazy zone like everything else! Ultimately it's your car and decision, but on something that has more than a pristine underhood appearance, I would be more inclined to do a "Once and Done" to minimize the chance for underhood paint or any "Accident" damage! Hopefully, this will help give you some additional options to consider while allowing some price shopping.
  20. Hello Mike, As Hemikiller posted, with a white interior, black was the default color unless a special edition such as the '72 Sprint cars. If your vehicle is equipped with a deluxe interior, then there should be a color-coordinated carpet on the lower portion of the molded door panel you can use to help ID the original color. The Mach 1/Deluxe interior carpet also included embossed carpet runners that were color-coordinated. My Money Pit#1 (Pewter car) has a black interior and carpet with grey runners. Money Pit#2 has a red/Vermilion interior with black carpet and red runners. If you are considering a blue carpet, Ford didn't get too carried away with the naming on this interior color. My interior info states either blue or medium blue. Ford changed the blue carpet part number each year, but the part numbers were marked "MW" (mix with) which meant the dealer could use any of the three-part numbers, and they would match. Since Auto Custom Carpet (ACC) manufactures most of the repo carpet for the industry, you can check their site for more detailed information. They offer custom colors, and you can request samples to compare against your carpet. https://www.accmats.com/commerce/ Since many different Mustang parts vendors sell this carpet, you can check your favorite site, make some price comparisons, and check for any sales any of them may have
  21. Wow, what a refreshing view to see Kens almost 50-year old original engine that looks new inside. With two friends who ran salvage yards, I did a lot of Saturday morning shopping for treasures. Unfortunately, many of those "treasure" engines had the appearance of being dug out of sludge pit when opened up. When removed, there was a mirror image of the valve cover made of black sludge. With the engine's lower end in even worse shape, it usually took several of these treasure engines to accumulate enough undamaged pieces to make a good engine. But.....look at the money the previous owners saved on those money-wasting oil changes!! Agree with Hemikiller on the tag on the front of the valve cover. Since this was a lifelong California car, it is more than likely a state-issued tag for a random test at a safety/emissions inspection site. The placement of it below the Ford engine identification label does add weight to that possibility. The tags on Ford rebuilt engines were permanently attached to the block and not to any item that could be serviced replaced, such as valve covers or heads. The riveted tag always included the reman serial number and pertinent info needed in any warranty issues. I'm sure other reman engine sources did the same. The yellow valve stem seals are Ford pieces. The '70-74 "H" and '70-71" M" 351 C's used the common black Ford seals. '71/ Q and R engines used a black seal sourced from '70/ 429 Police, CJ, and SCJ engines (D0OE-A). The D0OE-A seals were replaced by the yellow seals sometime during '73 production. The yellow seals D3TZ-6571-A (D3TE-AA) were sourced from the '73-76 460 truck engine. It would be impossible to determine an exact start date with the sheer number of "Q" 351 engines installed in Mustang, Cougar, Torino, Montego, and Torino Trooper police packages. These cars were not assembled in consecutive serial numbers, and changes at the assembly plants did not occur simultaneously. My red '71 M code Mach 1 (Money Pit#2), when acquired in '81, had a '74 Gran Torino Q engine and had the yellow valve stem seals. As David mentioned, an emissions compliance label was placed in the L/R window for "California" cars. 1972 NOX-equipped vehicles had a similar label.
  22. David, I've been away for a while, but I see where Fordie originally posted July 14th. I hope he is still with us, as it would be great to have another GT 351 owner in our Forum. If so, welcome to your new Mustang home Fordie. As already posted, we like pictures and for you to let us know more about your South of the Border car! In addition to the great info already posted by David, here is some additional information for others that may not be familiar with these GT351s. The Mexican GT351 Mustangs were not American-built. They, therefore, did not have a typical U.S.-type VIN or have to meet the emissions, safety, or any other standards that U.S.-built vehicles had to meet. These bodies were shipped to Mexico as incomplete or Knock Down kits with no VIN. Mexico had some robust laws on the component content of vehicles manufactured there. The engine, transmission, and differential were manufactured and supplied to the La Villa Assembly plant from local Mexican manufacturing plants. The 351W engine and transmissions were Ford of Mexico built, but the differential was a Dana unit since Ford did not manufacture 8" or 9" differentials in Mexico. Most people didn't even know these cars existed until a few years ago, so accurate info can be challenging to obtain. Your VIN should start with AF01 with the following two letters defining the year and month of manufacture and the following five numbers the consecutive serial number.
  23. Hello Bufus, The following part info is what was OE for the front spoiler on the Boss 351. The Ford part number is (40953-S8) and is 1/4" - 20 X 3/4". This screw is a self-tapping hexagon washer head screw with a zinc-plated finish. You can probably find these at your local hardware store. If you can't find them, AMK products offer a set of 14 under their part# F-977. These are more than likely available at your favorite Mustang parts vendor and are often referenced to the AMK number. Keep in mind that aftermarket finishes may not be the same as the Ford original hardware.
  24. Hello Cribbs74 The 4sp was only available in the '71 429 and '71-73 351 4bl equipped Mustangs. A 3sp was the only available manual transmission choice for the 302. At $1000, that sounds like an excellent parts car purchase. The pedal hanger and associated hardware on a manual transmission car are worth that alone. Please keep us posted on how everything goes and when you get your treasure find home!
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