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About kiko619

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Mach 1
    1972 Grande Coupe


  • Location
    Houston, Tx
  • Region

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  1. thank you both for the help ill check it out and follow up when I get back in town.
  2. I'd be lying if i told you there ever was one and if it came out during bolt removal. II didn't try a longer bolt. I mentioned previously that all the bolts matched the originals in legnth thickness and pitch. So much for upgrading the bolts to throw out the old ones. ill try the longer bolts/helicoil method and see what i get from it.
  3. motor mounts are same thickness, nothings different. I am bolting the mounts while the engine is sitting on the stand and the bolts just keep spinning in place. they go in all the way and just spin. there's no presence of deflection either. it just spins motor is out of the engine compartment. the bolt that is causing issues is just on one side. and the threads are not stripped on the block/bolt itself. I misused the term bottoms out, I meant to describe the bolt goes in all the way but will not tighten. it just keeps spinning in place once all the way in.
  4. I started it off from second approach you suggested initially, its just easier imho. However, when I was torqueing the bolt into the block that one bolt would just go in like normal, no misalignment or cross threading, but kept on going until it bottomed out and just wouldn't tighten.. and there's no stripping of the threads on the block or the bolt itself. as for the bolt type itself I figured the grade 5 was a sufficient grade.
  5. Hey guys! I just replaced the motor mounts on the 351C and "bolts" from were acquired from Johnsmustang. Of the 4 bolts that screw into the block. 1 bolt would not catch at all if it did. It would spin freely it is the right size because pitch and length match, however when the bolt was being tightened down it just wouldn't securely tighten. so I reverted that 1 screw back to the original and now its not catching. My only guess is that these bolts are supposed to be stretch bolts. can someone please confirm this? If I need to upgrade to I higher grade of bolts, noted, I just need so
  6. for what its worth. following the same path from the previous post. Here's what is recommended from Hooker. I followed the reroute of mounting the bracket behind the transmission cross member. it really helps and keeps the speedo cable from sagging on top of or too close to the pipes. (ask me how I know) mind you the Ref. picture is inverted idk why lol, but still serves its purpose. the mount bracket will need to be screwed into the transmission cross member from the backside using a new sheetmetal screw. I cant up load a current pic of what I did, but I'll try when I get back home.
  7. I believe you meant that towards the comment if i had the relay. Im currently under the harness trying to figure out hat to do with this Resistor wire. my only option is to do the bypass. Reverting back to the original statement. if the resistor wire shares the same terminal plug as the 12V Red Green wire, will this cause issues if i splice into that red wire?
  8. PNX 44011 Flamethrower 3 PNX D7134620 igniter 3 distributor Im pretty certain I have to; I accidentally bought the flamethrower 2 and pertronix said it’s not compatible has to be the 3. And they were like it’s a simple plug and play.
  9. Oohhhhhh..... there’s a separate relay that needs to be purchased thanks pertronix for leaving that important detail out. On “easy plug and play”...
  10. The yellow boot (red & light green wire) is the same as the i terminal on the solenoid And it’s hooked to the coil (+) and the red white is to the negative (-) with the black wire as the igniter. So... if I’m understanding you’re saying add/route an additional wire from the battery positive? Sorry electrical and wiring is not my forte.
  11. Going to piggyback this thread. Using that same diagram to the ignition switch mine has the not so pink, but faded pink that says "resistance" wire tapped into the Red with Light Green wire. plug. I'm not setting up an ignition box, but I am going to run a Petronix Flamethrower ignition 3 coil that will need a supply of 12V. 1. Do I need to keep that pink wire? 2. can i splice into the red green wire here directly? if so, what about the opposite end of with the 90DEG boot? or like OP find another source of 12V to connect directly to the coil?
  12. I'm so glad to hear that I'm not the only one who fell victim to a POS promise. when I had purchased my car I was a novice to what all needs to be looked at and how to spot a good deal. well i found my mach 1 from a seller up in Pennsylvania and I wasn't until i stumbled across this website that i learned what the "Salt Belt States" can really do to the undercarriage. I got the car for about $1900 then the guy says for an extra 2k i can have the rear fenders, wheel housing, gas tank, trunk floor. all that and a bag of chips repaired. I skipped the deal because I thought that sounds pretty stee
  13. I had this issue before. I took those plastic putty knifes you get a Lowes for sheetrock splatter. They're like $1 I just happened to have one laying around. took a rubber mallet and whacked it. Once you get a small section lose you can just pull it off.
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