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    1972 Mach 1
    1972 Grande Coupe


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    Houston, Tx
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kiko619's Achievements


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  1. I did exactly that, I have my dizzy line connected to the ported line next to the meter block from the carb. however the amount of vacuum from the manifold (RPM AIR GAP) showed the same readings from the port underneath the carb (750CFM quickfuel) i guess its a matter of preference. also did the samething i that of it as a major concern towards having fumes in the cabin so i too ran the passenger side PCV line into the carb, but I'm running a breather cap on the drivers side valve cover to eliminate so many hoses and lines everywhere. all these vacuum lines and circulation lines almost makes the car look like a birds nest. lol
  2. for the PCV is it critical to have it connected to the back of the carburetor or can it be a breather cap? As far as the dizzy, the option is available to connect dizzy>> 3way port> intake & carb. can the 3 way port be eliminated?
  3. Hi all! My question is directed towards how everyone else has their vacuum lines set up based on the modifications they've applied to the cars i.e. new intakes, EGR eliminated, vacuum canister eliminated, Newer distributors, the list goes on... I know of and have viewed the diagrams provided by @Don C and all those who've contributed to building a concourse car. I'm more interested to see what everyone's done to bypass certain parts of the diagrams or which parts are the diagram are critical vs. major to the operation based on the set up someone is running. Does everyone here really have 3-hose ported vacuum, solenoid valves, and/or spark delay valves? Ex: How did you set up the Ram-air vacuum lines with deleted parts of a diagram, did this affect your timing, what subtle changes did you notice after testing, do you have documentation to share? Rather than relying on a manufacturer's, i.e. Holley, Edelbrock, Petronix, recommendation i'd prefer the testimony of my community where everyone here has a unique set up that can provide variable data. Critical Characteristic: component that is necessary to the form, fit, and function of the engine and or/timing. Major Characteristic: component that is necessary for emissions control, but does not have an effect on form, fit and function of the engine and/or timing. Rather than relying on a manufacturer's, i.e. Holley, Edelbrock, Petronix, recommendation i'd prefer the testimony of my community where everyone here has a unique set up that can provide variable data. thank you all!
  4. thank you both for the help ill check it out and follow up when I get back in town.
  5. I'd be lying if i told you there ever was one and if it came out during bolt removal. II didn't try a longer bolt. I mentioned previously that all the bolts matched the originals in legnth thickness and pitch. So much for upgrading the bolts to throw out the old ones. ill try the longer bolts/helicoil method and see what i get from it.
  6. motor mounts are same thickness, nothings different. I am bolting the mounts while the engine is sitting on the stand and the bolts just keep spinning in place. they go in all the way and just spin. there's no presence of deflection either. it just spins motor is out of the engine compartment. the bolt that is causing issues is just on one side. and the threads are not stripped on the block/bolt itself. I misused the term bottoms out, I meant to describe the bolt goes in all the way but will not tighten. it just keeps spinning in place once all the way in.
  7. I started it off from second approach you suggested initially, its just easier imho. However, when I was torqueing the bolt into the block that one bolt would just go in like normal, no misalignment or cross threading, but kept on going until it bottomed out and just wouldn't tighten.. and there's no stripping of the threads on the block or the bolt itself. as for the bolt type itself I figured the grade 5 was a sufficient grade.
  8. Hey guys! I just replaced the motor mounts on the 351C and "bolts" from were acquired from Johnsmustang. Of the 4 bolts that screw into the block. 1 bolt would not catch at all if it did. It would spin freely it is the right size because pitch and length match, however when the bolt was being tightened down it just wouldn't securely tighten. so I reverted that 1 screw back to the original and now its not catching. My only guess is that these bolts are supposed to be stretch bolts. can someone please confirm this? If I need to upgrade to I higher grade of bolts, noted, I just need some expert advice to know what may be going on here.
  9. for what its worth. following the same path from the previous post. Here's what is recommended from Hooker. I followed the reroute of mounting the bracket behind the transmission cross member. it really helps and keeps the speedo cable from sagging on top of or too close to the pipes. (ask me how I know) mind you the Ref. picture is inverted idk why lol, but still serves its purpose. the mount bracket will need to be screwed into the transmission cross member from the backside using a new sheetmetal screw. I cant up load a current pic of what I did, but I'll try when I get back home. 1. insert the speed cable into dash cluster. 2. insert speedo gear into the tranny. 2. place the bracket on the rear crossmember and make sure you have tension to lift the cable from sagging on the pipes. doesn't need much for to pick up. View: rear to front of engine. After you reroute this cable. know this: any future work on the dash you're going to have to remove the bracket from the cross member since you've eliminated that extra slack to pull out the cluster. its an extra step you have to do down the road so don't forget and accidentally break it. lol
  10. I believe you meant that towards the comment if i had the relay. Im currently under the harness trying to figure out hat to do with this Resistor wire. my only option is to do the bypass. Reverting back to the original statement. if the resistor wire shares the same terminal plug as the 12V Red Green wire, will this cause issues if i splice into that red wire?
  11. PNX 44011 Flamethrower 3 PNX D7134620 igniter 3 distributor Im pretty certain I have to; I accidentally bought the flamethrower 2 and pertronix said it’s not compatible has to be the 3. And they were like it’s a simple plug and play.
  12. Oohhhhhh..... there’s a separate relay that needs to be purchased thanks pertronix for leaving that important detail out. On “easy plug and play”...
  13. The yellow boot (red & light green wire) is the same as the i terminal on the solenoid And it’s hooked to the coil (+) and the red white is to the negative (-) with the black wire as the igniter. So... if I’m understanding you’re saying add/route an additional wire from the battery positive? Sorry electrical and wiring is not my forte.
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