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About kiko619

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Mach 1
    1972 Grande Coupe


  • Location
    Houston, Tx
  • Region

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  1. I believe you meant that towards the comment if i had the relay. Im currently under the harness trying to figure out hat to do with this Resistor wire. my only option is to do the bypass. Reverting back to the original statement. if the resistor wire shares the same terminal plug as the 12V Red Green wire, will this cause issues if i splice into that red wire?
  2. PNX 44011 Flamethrower 3 PNX D7134620 igniter 3 distributor Im pretty certain I have to; I accidentally bought the flamethrower 2 and pertronix said it’s not compatible has to be the 3. And they were like it’s a simple plug and play.
  3. Oohhhhhh..... there’s a separate relay that needs to be purchased thanks pertronix for leaving that important detail out. On “easy plug and play”...
  4. The yellow boot (red & light green wire) is the same as the i terminal on the solenoid And it’s hooked to the coil (+) and the red white is to the negative (-) with the black wire as the igniter. So... if I’m understanding you’re saying add/route an additional wire from the battery positive? Sorry electrical and wiring is not my forte.
  5. Going to piggyback this thread. Using that same diagram to the ignition switch mine has the not so pink, but faded pink that says "resistance" wire tapped into the Red with Light Green wire. plug. I'm not setting up an ignition box, but I am going to run a Petronix Flamethrower ignition 3 coil that will need a supply of 12V. 1. Do I need to keep that pink wire? 2. can i splice into the red green wire here directly? if so, what about the opposite end of with the 90DEG boot? or like OP find another source of 12V to connect directly to the coil?
  6. I'm so glad to hear that I'm not the only one who fell victim to a POS promise. when I had purchased my car I was a novice to what all needs to be looked at and how to spot a good deal. well i found my mach 1 from a seller up in Pennsylvania and I wasn't until i stumbled across this website that i learned what the "Salt Belt States" can really do to the undercarriage. I got the car for about $1900 then the guy says for an extra 2k i can have the rear fenders, wheel housing, gas tank, trunk floor. all that and a bag of chips repaired. I skipped the deal because I thought that sounds pretty stee
  7. I had this issue before. I took those plastic putty knifes you get a Lowes for sheetrock splatter. They're like $1 I just happened to have one laying around. took a rubber mallet and whacked it. Once you get a small section lose you can just pull it off.
  8. Just ordered one!! What did you use for an undercoating it looks really heavy, but I like it :]
  9. I think the dialing it in will be the challenge hopefully its not too bad. well seeing as how big they are i might as well return it and get the smaller ones, ill look on other threads and see what are the better choices out there. Do you have a recommendation of your own? something that wont break the bank preferably well with the whole return policy from holley and at the expense of shipping costs ill stick to the one I have now. great info for a friend of mine who's still looking so thanks!
  10. @Don C After i opened up the box and test fitted the Distributor yeah, its really not attractive. Reason to getting its was to clean up the clutter in the engine compartment, there just seems to be an excess of auxiliary connections for a system to run. The distributor would be more fitting for a truck based on it size alone. @droptop73 well I plan for the car to just be the fun nights/weekends. I drive a lot on highways so getting that top end power will be seen frequently; especially when comes to the passing on the left. Thanks for the input on your set up! (I hear Holley is the troub
  11. Carb- noted, I didnt think that actually could be applicable, Bernoulli's Principle... I'm wondering if there's a kit sold to swap out the parts the boosters. Distributor - I already had a feeling about this being a problem just wanted that second opinion for sure. So, is it the HEI units that cause the clearance issues? or JEGS brand that's just massive? I know to stay away from ProComp. I've had their products before and its a hit miss for problematic stuff... Unfortunately, I was got hit. I got hit nonstop. get what you pay for... Starter - awe man really? I thought this was going
  12. Hi everyone, I'm currently in the midst of purchasing everything I'm going to be needing for an upgrade. The car is dead stock I figured who better to ask than those who've already gone through the headaches. This will be a build for a weekend/fun driving car and that its reliable. (not breaking down)just trying to pump out the most i can out of this car. I will be taking having the a long block rebuild and have its internals professionally installed and dialed in. Carb: Holley; 750CFM Quick Fuel - is it overkill? maybe, but then again maybe it'll suffice later on in tandem to
  13. yeaahh..... the old car smell im not going to be all too happy with that. Honestly i was just concerned with cleaning up the engine compartment from soo many hoses. You bring up a good point.
  14. What would happen if you were to replace the hose connection to a PCV filter instead? I'm asking because at the end of the day its a filter at the end of the connection.
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