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kiko619

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Everything posted by kiko619

  1. I did exactly that, I have my dizzy line connected to the ported line next to the meter block from the carb. however the amount of vacuum from the manifold (RPM AIR GAP) showed the same readings from the port underneath the carb (750CFM quickfuel) i guess its a matter of preference. also did the samething i that of it as a major concern towards having fumes in the cabin so i too ran the passenger side PCV line into the carb, but I'm running a breather cap on the drivers side valve cover to eliminate so many hoses and lines everywhere. all these vacuum lines and circulation lines almost makes the car look like a birds nest. lol
  2. for the PCV is it critical to have it connected to the back of the carburetor or can it be a breather cap? As far as the dizzy, the option is available to connect dizzy>> 3way port> intake & carb. can the 3 way port be eliminated?
  3. Hi all! My question is directed towards how everyone else has their vacuum lines set up based on the modifications they've applied to the cars i.e. new intakes, EGR eliminated, vacuum canister eliminated, Newer distributors, the list goes on... I know of and have viewed the diagrams provided by @Don C and all those who've contributed to building a concourse car. I'm more interested to see what everyone's done to bypass certain parts of the diagrams or which parts are the diagram are critical vs. major to the operation based on the set up someone is running. Does everyone here really have 3-hose ported vacuum, solenoid valves, and/or spark delay valves? Ex: How did you set up the Ram-air vacuum lines with deleted parts of a diagram, did this affect your timing, what subtle changes did you notice after testing, do you have documentation to share? Rather than relying on a manufacturer's, i.e. Holley, Edelbrock, Petronix, recommendation i'd prefer the testimony of my community where everyone here has a unique set up that can provide variable data. Critical Characteristic: component that is necessary to the form, fit, and function of the engine and or/timing. Major Characteristic: component that is necessary for emissions control, but does not have an effect on form, fit and function of the engine and/or timing. Rather than relying on a manufacturer's, i.e. Holley, Edelbrock, Petronix, recommendation i'd prefer the testimony of my community where everyone here has a unique set up that can provide variable data. thank you all!
  4. thank you both for the help ill check it out and follow up when I get back in town.
  5. I'd be lying if i told you there ever was one and if it came out during bolt removal. II didn't try a longer bolt. I mentioned previously that all the bolts matched the originals in legnth thickness and pitch. So much for upgrading the bolts to throw out the old ones. ill try the longer bolts/helicoil method and see what i get from it.
  6. motor mounts are same thickness, nothings different. I am bolting the mounts while the engine is sitting on the stand and the bolts just keep spinning in place. they go in all the way and just spin. there's no presence of deflection either. it just spins motor is out of the engine compartment. the bolt that is causing issues is just on one side. and the threads are not stripped on the block/bolt itself. I misused the term bottoms out, I meant to describe the bolt goes in all the way but will not tighten. it just keeps spinning in place once all the way in.
  7. I started it off from second approach you suggested initially, its just easier imho. However, when I was torqueing the bolt into the block that one bolt would just go in like normal, no misalignment or cross threading, but kept on going until it bottomed out and just wouldn't tighten.. and there's no stripping of the threads on the block or the bolt itself. as for the bolt type itself I figured the grade 5 was a sufficient grade.
  8. Hey guys! I just replaced the motor mounts on the 351C and "bolts" from were acquired from Johnsmustang. Of the 4 bolts that screw into the block. 1 bolt would not catch at all if it did. It would spin freely it is the right size because pitch and length match, however when the bolt was being tightened down it just wouldn't securely tighten. so I reverted that 1 screw back to the original and now its not catching. My only guess is that these bolts are supposed to be stretch bolts. can someone please confirm this? If I need to upgrade to I higher grade of bolts, noted, I just need some expert advice to know what may be going on here.
  9. for what its worth. following the same path from the previous post. Here's what is recommended from Hooker. I followed the reroute of mounting the bracket behind the transmission cross member. it really helps and keeps the speedo cable from sagging on top of or too close to the pipes. (ask me how I know) mind you the Ref. picture is inverted idk why lol, but still serves its purpose. the mount bracket will need to be screwed into the transmission cross member from the backside using a new sheetmetal screw. I cant up load a current pic of what I did, but I'll try when I get back home. 1. insert the speed cable into dash cluster. 2. insert speedo gear into the tranny. 2. place the bracket on the rear crossmember and make sure you have tension to lift the cable from sagging on the pipes. doesn't need much for to pick up. View: rear to front of engine. After you reroute this cable. know this: any future work on the dash you're going to have to remove the bracket from the cross member since you've eliminated that extra slack to pull out the cluster. its an extra step you have to do down the road so don't forget and accidentally break it. lol
  10. I believe you meant that towards the comment if i had the relay. Im currently under the harness trying to figure out hat to do with this Resistor wire. my only option is to do the bypass. Reverting back to the original statement. if the resistor wire shares the same terminal plug as the 12V Red Green wire, will this cause issues if i splice into that red wire?
  11. PNX 44011 Flamethrower 3 PNX D7134620 igniter 3 distributor Im pretty certain I have to; I accidentally bought the flamethrower 2 and pertronix said it’s not compatible has to be the 3. And they were like it’s a simple plug and play.
  12. Oohhhhhh..... there’s a separate relay that needs to be purchased thanks pertronix for leaving that important detail out. On “easy plug and play”...
  13. The yellow boot (red & light green wire) is the same as the i terminal on the solenoid And it’s hooked to the coil (+) and the red white is to the negative (-) with the black wire as the igniter. So... if I’m understanding you’re saying add/route an additional wire from the battery positive? Sorry electrical and wiring is not my forte.
  14. Going to piggyback this thread. Using that same diagram to the ignition switch mine has the not so pink, but faded pink that says "resistance" wire tapped into the Red with Light Green wire. plug. I'm not setting up an ignition box, but I am going to run a Petronix Flamethrower ignition 3 coil that will need a supply of 12V. 1. Do I need to keep that pink wire? 2. can i splice into the red green wire here directly? if so, what about the opposite end of with the 90DEG boot? or like OP find another source of 12V to connect directly to the coil?
  15. I'm so glad to hear that I'm not the only one who fell victim to a POS promise. when I had purchased my car I was a novice to what all needs to be looked at and how to spot a good deal. well i found my mach 1 from a seller up in Pennsylvania and I wasn't until i stumbled across this website that i learned what the "Salt Belt States" can really do to the undercarriage. I got the car for about $1900 then the guy says for an extra 2k i can have the rear fenders, wheel housing, gas tank, trunk floor. all that and a bag of chips repaired. I skipped the deal because I thought that sounds pretty steep. well low and behold I went along with this guy that was recommended from a family friend that he knew how to to do body work and could do it all in about a month for about $1000. I thought wow that's a great deal since apparently he is a body man. sure why not? For over 1.5yrs later I kept calling for an update and the guy was dodging my calls and only every so often picking up saying that he's completed a partial but never gave me pictures... I finally went up to just drop in and see what all had been done the guy says ohh.. sorry man, some of the part like you're entire rear brake system went missing, gas lines too. or it was "ohh you gave me those parts? well I don't remember." I HAVE THE RECIEPTS... you think I have another mustang that needs these things? I ended up paying for the parts again because neither the owner of the shop or him took responsibility and of course young and dumb me then didn't have it in writing that I supplied said parts as requested from them. Few months later the guy just flat out ghosted me. So I just went up there with a tailor and was just going to pull the project without paying for anything and dip since they didnt have any of my information. Here's the kicker... when I arrived it turns out that the "owner" was not the owner... it was his buddy whom was renting the a lot on a dealers property and the mechanic? what f*kin mechanic... it was just some guy that barely knew how to do mechanics and just posed as one. Ohh and the car? it was sitting inside the empty lot because they cleared out the shop months ago. The dealership was holding on to my car as a lien against them and if I wanted my car back I had to pay $1000.00 for a shitty job and to have it released. Never was able to track that POS. So here I am now with a half assed rear end job that I fixed all over AGAIN. Learned my lesson I'll pay double the local labor for a job I know can get done correctly and delivered as promised. Hear me out; new section of topics in honor of 2020: Horror Stories - "I know a guy" about the thread: tell us about the horror stories you've had with all false promises, the classic "i know a guy", Yeah i know how to weld, Rust free: until you hit a bump, Solid steel: pure bondo, etc.
  16. I had this issue before. I took those plastic putty knifes you get a Lowes for sheetrock splatter. They're like $1 I just happened to have one laying around. took a rubber mallet and whacked it. Once you get a small section lose you can just pull it off.
  17. Just ordered one!! What did you use for an undercoating it looks really heavy, but I like it :]
  18. I think the dialing it in will be the challenge hopefully its not too bad. well seeing as how big they are i might as well return it and get the smaller ones, ill look on other threads and see what are the better choices out there. Do you have a recommendation of your own? something that wont break the bank preferably well with the whole return policy from holley and at the expense of shipping costs ill stick to the one I have now. great info for a friend of mine who's still looking so thanks!
  19. @Don C After i opened up the box and test fitted the Distributor yeah, its really not attractive. Reason to getting its was to clean up the clutter in the engine compartment, there just seems to be an excess of auxiliary connections for a system to run. The distributor would be more fitting for a truck based on it size alone. @droptop73 well I plan for the car to just be the fun nights/weekends. I drive a lot on highways so getting that top end power will be seen frequently; especially when comes to the passing on the left. Thanks for the input on your set up! (I hear Holley is the trouble child; constantly seeking attention. lol)
  20. Carb- noted, I didnt think that actually could be applicable, Bernoulli's Principle... I'm wondering if there's a kit sold to swap out the parts the boosters. Distributor - I already had a feeling about this being a problem just wanted that second opinion for sure. So, is it the HEI units that cause the clearance issues? or JEGS brand that's just massive? I know to stay away from ProComp. I've had their products before and its a hit miss for problematic stuff... Unfortunately, I was got hit. I got hit nonstop. get what you pay for... Starter - awe man really? I thought this was going to be a good one :( Valvetrian & Cam - will do. Once I get the recommendations ill post them here. If anyone else has an opposing view or supporting info with tweaks or suggestions chime on in. My background is not car mechanics and all this is fairly new to me. I have a stronger focus on aerodynamics. YouTube only goes so far on how to read and understand this. Thank you in advance to everyone here.
  21. Hi everyone, I'm currently in the midst of purchasing everything I'm going to be needing for an upgrade. The car is dead stock I figured who better to ask than those who've already gone through the headaches. This will be a build for a weekend/fun driving car and that its reliable. (not breaking down)just trying to pump out the most i can out of this car. I will be taking having the a long block rebuild and have its internals professionally installed and dialed in. Carb: Holley; 750CFM Quick Fuel - is it overkill? maybe, but then again maybe it'll suffice later on in tandem to the cam and remainder upgrades. Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap - ive read that clearance issues will exist if Ram-Air was a selection down the road Distributor: JEGS; HEI (its definitely bigger...) - definitely questioning this I mean this piece of machinery is almost 3 times the size... Ultimately, I just wanted to do away with the separate coil. Its 2020 so I find it hard to believe upgrading from points to HEI isn't as reliable conversion from what I've read... a modernized ignition system (minus the EFI for the time being) would be nice. Starter: JEGS; ProStarter - weighing in at a whopping 8.8lbs and a little under half the size from stock. im keeping this. Headers: Hooker <3 - I think everyone can agree that this is a standard. Tranny: FMX - seeking an AOD down the road for long drives; I've read this is a must upgrade when the time comes.) Comp Cam, Lifters, Rockers arms, springs, and other internals. - Still looking for parts to accommodate for the current items. Please feel free to chime in with y'all have to say suggestions and conflicting ideas. I'm all ears for learning.
  22. yeaahh..... the old car smell im not going to be all too happy with that. Honestly i was just concerned with cleaning up the engine compartment from soo many hoses. You bring up a good point.
  23. What would happen if you were to replace the hose connection to a PCV filter instead? I'm asking because at the end of the day its a filter at the end of the connection.
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