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rhazbun

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Everything posted by rhazbun

  1. I just had a discussion with Gray. (Thanks @TnaFastbk) For those of you who don't know, Gray was a partner at American Powertrain and is the designer of the kit for the 71-73 mustangs. You can see him in the photos that @tnafastbk posted. We talked about the travel issue, and he recommended two things that could help resolve the issue: 1.) The pivot point of the master cylinder bracket, should be loose. This allows the master cylinder to swing as the pedal (and rod) travel in an arc, and it maintains rod alignment with the master cylinder. The set screw, on the side of that bracket, should not be used. 2.) using a hood stop bumper, (which typically has a long threaded rod), you can attach the bumper on the support section of the pedal, and use the bumper to adjust the pedal height. Doing so, in combination with the rod adjustment, will allow you to move the overall travel of the pedal "down" toward the floor. 3.) moving the attachment point of the heim up on the pedal will reduce the overall rod travel (increases the ratio), and should fix this problem. This can be done either by drilling a hole on the pedal itself (as Dennis has done), or by flipping the bracket around so that it faces up (ie, may have to manufacture a special bracket here). Gray is still in the business. His company is now Apex Drivetrain(www.apexdrivetrain.com), and he can be reached at gray@apexdrivetrain.com . He is the only reason that I purchased the kit from american powertrain, and I was sad to hear that he had left american powertrain. I'm glad he's still in the business and I encourage anyone looking for drivetrain / clutch components for our cars to reach out to him. He's a great guy and he stands by his product. I won't have time to try these changes out for a while, but I'm looking forward to it next time I get a chance.
  2. Dennis, If you look at my photo and the one that tnafastbk posted, the area right behind the master cylinder is unthreaded for quite a while. There's no suitable place for a jam nut. Mounting it on the firewall as you have, you've corrected the geometry in the original kit by moving the attachment point slightly upwards toward the fulcrum point of the pedal, thereby reducing the overall amount of clutch pushrod travel. (this is also an option I'm considering )
  3. I have used the American powertrain set up for almost 8 years ( I think) now with absolutely zero issues. Actually my car was used to design the one for the 71/73 setup. Stephen Leacock @Tnafastbk , yes I remember. I messaged you about the installation of your unit when we were installing it in my car. If I remember correctly you "got used to the pedal feeling", but you have the same issue. As I said, the system works fine if you get used to it, but you just can't hand the keys to your car over to someone else. And if someone mashes the pedal to the floor (as is typically done with clutches), stuff is bent and and damaged. If that's not the case, I'd really love to see exactly how your pedal is connected and take some measurements (mark the rod at the master cylinder with the pedal all the way up and all the way down, then measure the two). It's possible that since Gray was personally working on your car, that he did something different that didn't make it into the kit. I had a few problems getting the exact parts needed from american powertrain. Here is an image that I took from the installation in my car. You can see the bracket holding the master cylinder and the rod connecting to the pedal stop bracket.
  4. BE WARY of the American Powertrain solution. Yes it works, but it doesn't work correctly. I installed it in my car. In the correct location. Unfortunately, the throw of the pedal at the mounting location is greater than the throw of the master cylinder. So, if you mash the pedal to the floor, it will damage the master cylinder and the pedal will stay down. You'll have about $100-150 worth of parts to replace when this happens. When I get around to it, I need to either change the mounting location or develop a bracket to convert the motion. If I had to do it all over again I would do one of two things: 1.) get all of the mechanical clutch parts and figure out a way to connect the mechanical clutch parts to the master cylinder, which I would mount somewhere on or near the transmission 2.) call modern driveline and see what they offer. One of the brackets in their other kits looks like what I'll need to develop to fix the geometry in the american powertrain version. http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/speed/pc/1964-5-66-Mustang-LF-Series-Hyd-Clutch-Master-Kit-26p516.htm (the J bracket in the photo below) In short, the American Power train kit is GREAT in every aspect EXCEPT for matching the pedal alignment/ throw to the master cylinder. If anyone has solved this problem, I'd be happy to hear your solution.
  5. Hello and Welcome. Bummer. I can honestly recommend the heads produced by Scott Cook. These are fast burn closed chamber heads that are designed to make gobs of power. I have a set of his heads and intake on my 351C and absolutely love it. --Robert
  6. Contact: Charlie "Custom Billet Grilles" Phone (626) 215-5866 charlieyan@yahoo.com He has a billet grille for 71-73 mustangs. I've him and the grille at a few car shows. Good Craftsmanship. He may be able to provide you with a few photos and see if you like it. --Robert H.
  7. I have a 73 convertible, where one of the handles for the convertible top has broken. I purchased a replacement handle, but unfortunately, the handle is not complete. Theres a bushing and a blind rivet. The bushing can be pressed out of the old one and re-used, but I need to find a source for the rivet. Any suggestions. Please see photo. Thanks in advance! --Robert H.
  8. Coming up toward the end of my restoration. I have a bunch of parts from a 73 Fastback parts car. Photos attached. In particular: 1.) Restored 2V heads, with stainless steel valves and rocker studs, valve bowl has been polished 2.) Rear glass for 73 fastback 3.) Quarter glass for 73 fastback. Including glass trim. 4.) Stock oil pan for 351C 5.) Wheel trim and side trim for 73 mustang 6.) Metal Dash 7.) 2 separate auto transmission brake pedal brackets 8.) 73 mustang urethane bumper 9.) 351C -2V Edelbrock performer intake + Valley pan gasket. 10.) 2 separate copper radiators. One has a new core. Please make me an offer. Pictures below. Parts are in Ft. Lauderdale Florida. Please be ready to pick up or arrange shipping if you're interested.
  9. Can anyone identify the little silver "box" mounted on the strut tower just in front of the master cylinder in this photo? I need to figure out what this is and if I can find a replacement. Thanks in advance. --Robert
  10. I'm curious as well. If anyone has installed them and has photos, please post or link to the photo. BTW, the manufacturer is here: http://mpcustomproducts.com/productspages/enginedressups.html And you can order direct from them without the markup.
  11. I have. Purchased a set of heads and an intake from Scott. He's very reliable and the quality of his product is top notch. Dave Mclain and Dan Jones did some testing a while back and confirmed that his dual plane intake will give you more HP than any other dual plane on the market. Dave is currently doing a rebuild for me that includes his new heads and intake. We're doing a somewhat conservative 351 build as opposed to a "stroker". I would suggest contacting Scott directly with respect to the stock and availability. I received my heads and intake fairly quickly after sending him payment.
  12. I have a set for sale. PM me for contact information. Thanks, RH
  13. I've got one. There is a rip in one of the corners but it is easily repaired. I'm also located in South Florida. PM me to exchange numbers.
  14. I'm interested in the engine mount perches (motor mount to frame bracket)
  15. Kurt, Here's a pic of the new NACA hood fitted to the convertible. I don't think I'll be needing the standard hood anymore. :cool: If you're interested, make me an offer. You know it's in great shape. --Robert
  16. I'm selling a standard hood for our cars. It's in really good shape, but I can't store it anymore. I'm asking $150 obo. Here's the craigslist posting: http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/pts/4571250473.html --Robert
  17. Here's one for our cars from MPG Heads: http://www.mpgheads.com/monte_carlo_brace.php If you do purchase and install this kit, please post pictures for the rest of us.
  18. Thanks for the info. The car is at a shop. Unfortunately, we've stripped all the suspension off the car and put it on a dolly so that we could get the car fully paint stripped. As I understand it, we're having trouble around getting the body/chassis on the frame machine. --RH
  19. Yeah... I knew they were rare, but I didn't know how rare. I found a few NOS coupe quarters for $400, but I can't find any convertible quarters.
  20. Looking for an NOS Drivers Side Quarter Panel for a 71-73 Convertible.
  21. I'm currently trying to gap the trunk lid on my 73 Mustang Convertible. Apparently, at one point in the cars life, it had been hit on the drivers side quarter panel. As a result, it seems the quarter panel has shifted, and the trunk lid won't gap correctly. If we align the passenger side and front side of the lid with the car, then the drivers side seems to have a horrible growing gap, seen in the pictures attached. Has anyone on the forums had to deal with something like this ? Suggestions? I'm adding one additional picture. We've stripped the top of the quarter panel, and the buckle is clearly visible. Looks like it was pushed forward and out. Thanks, RH
  22. Where are you located? Can you post a picture of the serial number (top of the block, just under the driver side head, on the transmission side of the engine) I'm looking for the original engine from my 73 Q code convertible. Thanks, RH
  23. I've read that you can move the engine as much as 3" toward the firewall. Some people who have put other transmissions into our mustangs have had to do this modification to make the shifter fit in the stock hole. Here's one story.... http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/03/T56Swap/index.php (requires subscription to see the part of the article describing setback) Ron Morris makes it "easy" by providing adjustable motor mounts: http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rmp&Product_Code=6110 Of course, as others have pointed out, driveshaft and exhaust will probably need to be modified for the new location.
  24. I have a '73 Q-code convertible that I'm doing a frame up restoration on. The Driver side quarter panel is questionable and I'm contemplating replacing it. Does anyone have experience with the aftermarket quarter panels on convertibles? Do they require alot of work to make them fit properly? Also, what's the difference between the 71-72 and 73 quarter panels? Is there a serious difference in the shape of the panel or is a matter of drilling a few holes in the new panel? Thanks, RH
  25. Nice braces!! Who makes them? Are you going to mount a monte carlo bar as well ?
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