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Everything posted by 1973grandeklar

  1. I am rebuilding my 351 4V and the distributor was stuck. I tried to save it, but no luck. I cracked it and ended up driving it out from the bottom with the oil pump removed. I will be replacing the distributor with a new one (keeping it stock). I just will not worry about the date coded correctness.
  2. Seeing that kickdown issue kind of reminds me of the issue I had trying to make a tv cable work for a 700R4 on a 1968 GTO. I was cheap and did not want to buy a fancy aftermarket. So I got several brackets out of the junkyard and cut and welded to make one fit and still look stock. I have seen your welding work, you are pretty darn good and I think you could cut and refit those brackets. The end result would probably look as good or better than stock.
  3. I had a starter issue when I swapped in a 1969 M code 351W into my 1972 coupe. The starter would only last for a short time. I switched to this style: https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_starter_mini_high_torque_weight_5_5_lbs-176370-433.html have had it for about six months and not issues. I think you need a different version for the 351C, but the Powermaster is very similar to what I got. It looks like it might even be a little better.
  4. 1965 Mustang Coupe 1972 Mustang Coupe 1981 F-150 1985 F-150 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1993 Suburban total 210 years old Average of 35 years old Not include because not running: 1972 Mach 1 1973 Grande
  5. SO is this a good price? http://www.ebay.com/itm/201436711953?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Then I read this quote: "This engine was removed as a complete unit from a low mile '72 R-code Mach 1 that was pretty much unmolested." The fact that the numbers matching engine is now gone out of the R code mustang would mean it is now very molested?
  6. Thanks for the heads up Jeff. I forgot about the credit card angle.
  7. I have sent message after message to get a bumper that I paid for. He lead me along until the one month eBay refund coverage ran out. I should of just turned it into eBay, but I was trying to be a nice guy. All my purchases are now strictly watched and if I do not get something as promised, I turn them into eBay and PayPal. Just a heads up if you find yourself buying from this guy.
  8. Another difference is that the 1971 was built two years earlier than the 1973 lollerz
  9. Kurt I really enjoy following along on this build. Even though it is a Mopar, it is nice to see how you work each problem as it arises. It is unfortunately the nature of the beast with this kind of swap, but it would be nice to Not have any issues.
  10. Agree with cuda. Then you read articles how people are mad and trying to sell their VW and cannot even sell it for $10000 under the book value (think it was in CA). From what I can tell, the cars run just fine. Hell they even pass emissions testing as is (though it is a cheat). So what if my car is running voodoo software as long as it runs good and still gives me great mileage. Hyperbole on the part of the media as all the greenies are now crying about driving a car that is at worst marginally more emissions than tested. This does not excuse the automaker, but this is not new as the requirements get ridiculous. I remember Pontiac getting busted for a similar trick on the 1973 455 SD engine in the Trans Am.
  11. Opinion you say: Image 35: At the door gap, it appears like a small crease of bondo on the front lower fender? Image 36: Small bubble front drivers quarter, just above the rocker? Image 38: Small bondo crack on the lower quarter edge underneath where it wraps to the truck extension? Image 39-40: Rear valence painted flat black? Image 42: Small bubles on the lower corner of the passenger door? Image 43: Again at the door gap, it appears like a small crease of bondo on the lower fender? Image 48: The transmission inspection cover missing. Undercarriage does appear like it had a massive oil leak and though it is ugly, it probably works well to prevent rusting. I also agree that the lack of a crossover pipe will make the exhaust drone. Also in the underside image (#48) you can see that the engine appears to have been redone. Notice a chrome alternator, odd clamps on the fuel pump and the fuel filter down low, transmission looks like it was untouched (or cleaned). The soft lines for the brakes all appear to be original, meaning old and cracked. Especially that one located on the rearend. About the rearend, it looks like the front seal is leaking slinging oil on the exhaust and the shocks. Also, air shocks tend to hide rear spring sag. This is just what you can glean in the pictures. I see the price is reduced to $16900 so a closer inspection of these areas and a good test drive, I would not think the price is outrageous. Still a very nice looking car and if it runs as good as the description says it does, then go see it and make your opinions of whether it is worth the asking price (or negotiate a better price). I ended the above in question marks as the pictures may be showing odd reflections that look like cracks and bubbles.
  12. Yes. I had one completely quit. I did the same thing you did and replaced just about everything in the ignition system. I switched back to points and the car started right up. Bought a new Pertronix module and the car started right up. The old unit went bad. Unknown why, it had worked for over two years.
  13. And 2nd owner? No title? I think that the corner is bent or broken. I had to go look at my 73 to see how the bumper could possible be adjusted. Not sure that this is an adjustment issue. Looks like someone hooked onto the bumper (repoman?).
  14. I installed a 302 with a Weiand intake and a Holley 600cfm. I used the Holley Ford kickdown shaft so I could keep the rod. But I had the same thing happen to me! The throttle got stuck WOT. I thought I could lube it up and it worked for a while, but then it happened again! My cable alignment to the ball looked almost exactly like yours. I drilled the cable bracket holes to slot them and moved this out so the cable is directly in line with the ball. I have not had any sticking since. I even swapped the 302 out with a 351W. Used a stock intake with the Holley and had to adjust the cable bracket out to align it perfectly. What I think happens is the spring on the cable compresses almost completely at WOT. That little bit of an angle binds up the spring. The ball works for swiveling the connection, but it does not prevent the spring from binding up as it is linear on the cable. At least that was my theory and the problem went away with the alignment.
  15. Being you are in AZ, I would take Hemikiller's advice and just wire wheel (using your grinder as you described). Get some Rustbullit and just cover the rust, put down a little trunk spatter paint and clear coat it. The underside should not be a big deal as long as there is no rust. Again, being in AZ I would just clean it real good and maybe put down a little paint/undercoating to seal any bare metal. As for the engine bay, using a good sander and a lot of hand sanding you can get this area mechanically stripped and painted. Detail the engine bay and it really makes an average car look good and a good car look great (at least in my view).
  16. Sorry. I missed that as well. New tank, a satin clear. Or just leave it natural. It will not discolor if you keep it clean. Being your in CA doubt you see a whole lot of rain.
  17. No they should be captured in the pillar. But if you have a very hard time removing the bolts, you could damage the cage that retains it. I had one that broke loose (mainly due to rust and seized bolts). I am going to cut open that side to fix it. But if yours are not stuck and the bolts come loose nice, no worries.
  18. Strip off the black and spray it with a couple cans of Eastwood tank tone. Has the look of the galvanized metal and looks fresh. If you want concors, buy the new tank.
  19. Another easy thing to check is to pull off the valve covers and make sure all the valves are opening and closing. If one is stuck, you may have bent the push rod. Or the cam lobe is worn off. Happened in my Pontiac.
  20. If your spark is yellow it is weak. Are you sure you are getting the full 12 volts to that new coil? If you used the existing wire to the old coil, it is only about half the voltage. You should be getting a full 12+ volts to the Procomp coil. Try hooking the coil directly to a 12 volt source. Could even rig up a disconnect (for safety and being able to quickly shut off the engine) and connect the coil directly to the positive battery side just to get it cranked. Do not drive the car like this, only for diagnostics!
  21. This is what pisses me off. Someone not paying attention or driving a wreck with bad brakes, and they ruin a classic car that can never be replaced. From the looks of it, this was not just an unfortunate bump, this car was hit hard! I can shrug and say, "At least it wasn't me." But it could of been! As David already elaborated on, watch the rearview mirror! I cannot tell you how many times I have seen jacka$$e$ texting or looking at their phones while driving between stoplights (not to mention those doing 70 mph+ down the interstate).
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