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4Vforever

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4Vforever last won the day on May 2 2017

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About 4Vforever

  • Rank
    I get my mail here

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Q code, C6 auto, 3.25 traction lock,
    gold glow, ginger interior, A/C, pwr/steer/windows/disc brakes, etc

Location

  • Location
    Australia
  1. NO DRONE!! Now That is very interesting and as you say cheap (ish). Nearly 40% on our Canadian dollar ups it a bit, but still worth considering. Thanks for your input. None what so ever, then again I've always designed my systems to eliminate drone. The biggest problem is people put too big of a pipe on for their application. Most people don't want to believe what size pipe will handle X amount of power. The bigger is better thought transfers over to pipe diameters way too often. The amount of times I've seen twin 2 1/2" systems on 350 even 400+ HP engines then complain about drone
  2. On my 73 Q code vert I'm running Hooker Comp headers, 2 1/4 pipes H pipe and a pair of Summit brand Aero Chamber mufflers. No drone just a great real V8 sound and as the revs increase the sounds just keeps sounding better without being overly loud. I've had people ask what I'm using as the really like the sound. When I tell them they cant believe such a cheap and easy system sounds that good. I got onto these mufflers through a mate of mine when he needed some cheap mufflers on a car he bought in the US to drive around in. He ended up liking the sound so much they're still on the car today. Th
  3. Another for Jones cams. Contact Mike as he really knows his stuff and some of his cams have produced some outstanding results, even surprising the engine builders themselves, check him out here http://jonescams.com/ Bullet is also another good source or also as has been stated Brent at Lykins motorsports is another great source. If you don't want to splash out on a custom grind, I've had some really good results with Howard's cams for OTS stuff. As for lifters all of the budget street series hydraulic roller lifters including, Comp, Lunati, Howard's, etc are all made by Morel but ov
  4. The only reason I can think of in the huge difference in the prices for basically identical car would be the last Mustang ever built with a big block would have to be it. While the first with a 429 holds some appeal, the fact is previous Mustangs were built with big blocks. But having the very last of something special ever made (like the last ever BB Mustang) will always have a premium price. But the huge gap between them is still a bit of a head scratcher though, considering it was the first ever built with a 429 and the only year the engine was factory installed in a Mustang.
  5. Unfortunately, like every other performance engine built, there is no set tune for a 2Vcc headed Cleveland engine either. It's all about finding that sweet spot that actually works for your engine. They still like plenty of initial timing I've found, around the 12-16* mark and while some engines may want 34-36* or even more total advance, others may want 28-32* total advance, usually all done by 2800-3200 RPM. Same with plugs some like the standard heat range plugs while other engines want them colder and with the ignition set up use a distributor and coil that throws out decent spark and use
  6. Buy a timing tape made by either Moroso or Mr Gasket to suit. They had them years ago, but haven't needed to buy one in years as Romac balancers are marked the full 360 degrees.
  7. I've been known to build the odd one or two Cleveland with 302 Cleveland closed chamber heads. Actually I've built that combination many times in all forms from tow vehicles to street, street/strip to all out race engines from drags to circuit and even burnout engines. Flat tops, dish tops and even domes, stock stroke, increased stroke, decreased stroke, wet sump, dry sump and running on pump, avgas, LPG or even methanol, with all sorts of carb/s and intake set ups. In fact years ago the main staple of high performance Clevelands here in Australia were 2V cc headed engines as 4V heads were har
  8. No real trick, I just loosen off the nut on the long thread so the J hook on the end pops out of the hole, undo the bolt that holds the hold down piece across the battery to the bracket on the inner guard and remove the entire hold down. Then undo terminals and take them off then you right to remove the battery. When I had to replace the battery that was in my car, the battery was a bit bigger than the one in it now and the top radiator hose was slightly in the way. I just took off the radiator cap and nudged the hose to give me enough clearance to get the battery out. Mines a 351 4V car, but
  9. If you're needing to do your carb from scratch with adjustable air bleeds and multi stage emulsion and going to billet metering blocks and throttle plates, then going the Quick Fuel route is probably the best and cheapest way around it. Plus the Quick fuels are all aluminium construction as well which is not only lighter, but helps with fuel temperatures as well. As you stated you can sell your carb to help offset the costs. While I'm a huge fan of Quick Fuels, I'm an even bigger fan of a carb that works properly and does its job properly. In fact carb technology keeps changing so much lately
  10. As I said previously and as others have as well, why not just have your carb built to suit. Annular boosters are good and are usually used on circuit racers running carbs, especially on tight tracks. Your carb can be converted to annular boosters or look into these mini annular booster like I'm going to try for street duties , here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-QFT-AED-CCS-2300-4150-2-4-BBL-Mini-Annual-Booster-160-12-Hole-/171350913785?hash=item27e54f72f9:g:hO0AAOxyjzNRGBLQ&vxp=mtr If a new carb is what you really want, then as I said earlier it depends on what you want
  11. Great find Ray and thanks for posting it up. I love reading or listening to stories of owners back in the day with these types of cars. When there's pics to accompanythem makes it even better. I can sit there for hours listening and have from the everyday bloke that had a muscle car back in the day to workshop and race car mechanics to the drivers themselves that drove them on the track. These were truly great times and obviously will never happen again as the government needs to protect us from ourselves. Unfortunately for me I was born too late to experience it all, but remembering being a k
  12. Depends on what you really want from the engine as to which carb you really need. Also do you want a choke or the better air flow of a HP style throttle body. No matter what though performance engines want fuel and tuning a carb to be 100% street friendly on a high performance engine is near impossible. A choice needs to be made, tune it for all out street or all out performance there is very little in between. This is why most guys that drive engines like this on the street tune their carbs at the track to suit what they're after and after they've finished, tune them back for street duties ag
  13. The D3 4V heads are indeed 78cc as everyone I've encountered has been and Fords own literature backs it up, the earlier D1 4V heads had the 76cc chambers. Best way to compensate for the intake port misalignment is to mill the heads intake face instead of the manifold. Setting up intakes to mill each side is very time consuming and much easier to mill the intake face, plus if you change intakes in the future there no need for to mill it and makes the intake you pulled off easier to sell as it hasn't been milled. As for rockers if using a hydraulic (as has been stated) if using the standard typ
  14. Well if you can get the 750 for free then grab it. As for the rebuild, give it a go as they are a very simple carb to build and you can check everything anyway, especially any excess play in the throttle shafts which can play havoc trying to tune it. There's plenty of advice not just here to help you if need be, but would be plenty on the net also. Heaps of people do the 600 CFM carb thing and it's fine if you just drive it, but if you like giving it a workout every once in a while, then the 600 will come up short. When I replaced the 600 Edelbrock carb when it crapped itself with a new 750 va
  15. Absolutely the 4300 at 605 CFM was well and truly undersized for a 4V Cleveland. One thought on the reason for such a small carb was so people couldn't over rev the engine as I haven't seen or speaking with those that had these engines from new could not get them to rev past 5800 RPM and 6000 RPM would be absolute maximum and a smaller carb on the engine is cheaper and easier than fitting rev limiters to every car fitted with a 4V engine. The small carb looked after the engine for warranty purposes by allowing it to rev too high, hence why Ford sold so many 780 Holleys for these engines back i
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