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jrpav

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  • My Car
    1972 M-code Mach 1

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    New Milford, CT

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  1. How about this strategy: Let some other idiot buy it, then figure out that they're in over their head and turn around and sell it at a loss when their wife gives them the ultimatum. Unless you can paint the car yourself, anything over 6 grand is a bit of a risk especially if you can't have someone knowledgable take a close look at it first. :D
  2. '71 M-code, C-6, 3.00:1 Traction-Lok Mach 1, 15" wheels, Bright Red with Vermillion + Black Mach 1 interior and rear-window defroster.
  3. +1 on the Bleche White. That's the best tire cleaner I've found so far. It's just a cleaner - it doesn't make things look shiny like a "tire dressing" but that's exactly what you want when you're restoring something to original condition. You will be surprised at how much nasty stuff it will take off.
  4. Wanna laugh? I dropped out of high-school but I knew how to weld (gas and MIG) by the time I was 12. When I did go to school I was in all of the "Advanced Placement" classes so I probably could have gone to college but cars and girls were more important (at least back then). Here's the real funny part: I eventually became an Engineer and I'm VP of Product Development at my company now. I had to get my GED first though. :D
  5. Not only does he have skill but it looks like he also has no fear! I predict a good chance for success. So how is this project coming along?
  6. Thanks for the heads up. I'm restoring a '71 now and I wasn't aware that there was a big problem with the front roof pillar joints. I was planning on leading the 1/4 seams when I replaced the 1/4s anyway so now I'll melt the lead in the front seams too and re-weld those joints. THANKS FOR THE TIP.
  7. If you're having this much trouble with that area on a Mustang then don't EVER try restoring an old Porsche. Those things are full of curves! Trust me - I went through a Porsche restoration when I was in high-school. NOT fun. Why not cut more of the panel and replace it with one of the patch panels that are available? The cut lines are in the "flatter" sections of the panel. You can work those more easily. I think Dynacorn has complete '71-'73 quarter panels available now. You might want to look into those as well. JRP
  8. That actually looks like an Edelbrock SP2P (single-plane / dual-plane). They don't make it anymore. It's not really a "performance" manifold it's designed to improve low-end torque and increase fuel economy. JRP
  9. Due to emissions restrictions, in 73 "working" Ram air was only available on a 351-2V. The other engines got the "two-tone" hood treatment as you see on this car. JRP
  10. Word to the wise. Be careful. You'll get more giddy up by changing the rear-end gearing too and that won't affect trans. life. Why do you think you need a 2800 RPM stall speed? How hot is the cam and how heavy is the car? A "looser" converter is not a quick and dirty way to make a car go quicker, it's required when you have a hot cam and / or numerically lower rear gears (comparatively speaking). You actually want the "tightest" converter that your engine can stand while still giving you a good launch off the line. This gives you the most efficient power transfer and lets the trans run as cool as possible. "Loose" converters create heat. It sounds like you've already fried a trans. Take a look at your ENTIRE setup and then decide what you need to do. JRP
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