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Dave72Rcode last won the day on May 21 2015

Dave72Rcode had the most liked content!

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Mustang Mach 1
    351 HO R Code
    Power Windows
    3rd Owner since 1983


  • Location
    California, USA

Dave72Rcode's Achievements


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  1. thanks for that link! bookmarked. that's a lot of history in one gulp. not sure how much of it is true and it seems Pence is an evangelist for the 4V, but a lot of it does make sense... optimized for .600" lift, 7000 RPM, Nascar racing, iron crank vs steel, bottom end built to handle 7000+ rpm, drag racers vs nascar, rousch v hank the crank...lol to handle 600 lift and 7000 rpm, the top end components (non-R code) for most 351C probably needed to be beefed up with conversion to studs & guide plates, dual springs, single groove valves needed to matched up a higher lift cam
  2. @Butch65 - never too late.. Jet Hot or your local powder coater... or d-i-y ceramic paint from the parts store... @SDStang - don't get mad at me if you don't like em. :)
  3. hello from california.. love watching this yt channel of a 1973 mach 1 rebuild from a rust bucket to rallying in Tasmania... but horrible crash... hope they resurrect her! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGpvXHsLuFQ2DYNFetjOzHA
  4. [i've heard mixed things about them. YELP and a few other places. What's your experience? How long have you had them. Quality, customer service?] Sanderson have 2 people in the office. and it's old school. they were at Good Guys West Coast Nationals last weekend and have large display. so, they don't hide from the public. you can buy their stuff from Summit Racing now. their main focus are HOT RODS... check out these TWISTER HEADERS... http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-Twister-Outside-Chassis-Header-for-Small-Block-Ford.html i got mine CERAMIC COATED... they are nice. no gaskets... just RTV... with Stage 8 bolts, NO LEAKS... fits in same place as stock manifolds.. no clearance issues. my former long tube hookers were beat up and leaky from hitting speed bumps...
  5. Butch, welcome. i think MPG will say that they yield the most benefit and i'm sure they will be happy to sell you a set. :D honestly, i felt a little more grunt down low when i had them in. but that is subjective. no hard #s. but a couple weeks ago, i dyno'd at 286 rwTQ (est 425-450 TQ-gross) without them and i'm ok with that since the orig fty spec was 286 tq-net at the flywheel. The ONLY 3 things I've done that deviates from STOCK that probably contributes to the huge increase, seem to be 030 overbore adding 6 cubic inches, slightly higher lift cam (0.030+) over stock (0.491-.505ish), and the sanderson shorties. everything else is bone stock or near stock. the intake tongues & port plates are a "bolt on" solution to turn a 4V into a 2V or 3V more or less, but with a lot more velocity (pushing same amount of air but thru a smaller hole?) than a 2V. i think people with LONG TUBE headers on a stock stroke 351C might benefit the most since long tubes seem to reduce the HP and TQ #s down low while raising the HP's up higher... the port plates might help to move the power band back down a little... stroker motors can forget about the port plates, they solved the TQ problem with displacement. comparing my original Boss 351 exh manifolds (headers) to the Sanderson shorties, i don't see much difference in "packaging" (space used). The only real difference are the longer individual tubes and 3" collector vs the Boss's 2-1/4" collector. Standard 351C 4V had 2" collectors, as i recall. on street motors, i think larger collectors reduce TQ at lower RPM but helps HP at higher RPMs. sorry for writing another book... ugh...
  6. i decided to sell my MPG port plates... $45 (50% off reg price) + shipping. if anyone wants them, PM me. i can't seem to seal them correctly with my Sanderson headers, due to their raised flange design, but if you have stock exhaust manifolds or Hooker headers, they should work just fine.. FYI, my near-stock O/C 4V 351C (280HP/286TQ REAR WHEELS) is making #s at the rear wheels, similar to modern Mach 1s with all motor 4.6 http://www.dynoperformance.com/article_details.php?article_id=27 and our 351 4Vs seem to be as strong as or slightly stronger than our fellow 1971 429 Big Block brethren (370HP fty rating = 255HP rear)... http://www.429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/new_page_39.htm
  7. Thanks Ray... I actually installed the Q/R 2.7 turns L2L constant ratio earlier this year (February)... like the Corvette and Trans Am WS6 ps box... it's responsive on the twisties... but you can't dose off on the straights or else you might find yourself in the next lane over... i'm still tuning air pressure, camber, etc. and learning to drive it... i have 255/295 front/rear, cut coils, lowered 4.5 leaf rears with bilsteins... she's fun for canyon carving, flew over the Sierras from Sacto-Reno & back, often leading the pack at 75-90 mph, back and forth with a modded blacked out late model Vette... but had a couple scary moments, darting lanes, following ruts in the road... lowered the air pressure helped, but not sure how long the tires will last now... but then, again, it's not like it's my daily driver
  8. ok to rant... feel your pain... been there... oh yes, i've been there... i've decided to go with "functional" daily driver or performance parts vs super expensive concourse stuff... ive had problems with fuel sender, parking brake, brakes, alternator, starter, solenoid, carb, transmission, axle, distributor, power steering pump, headers, wiring harness, fog lights, battery, timing chain cover, water pump... i guess, just about everything has been replaced so far... i even did the LED lights like you too... you just don't know what will FAIL next until you drive it... ENJOY the Process!
  9. i went with dynacorn when we stripped the car to bare metal... the original hood was too far gone... the BOW in the middle was extremely pronounced. i had a very good body man... he placed 4x4's, then 2x4's under the hood and pressed down hard (jumped on it is more like it) at the front of the hood... but it was freaky to see how much force he had to put down on it... but eventually, it was MASSAGED into place... nice gaps... looks nice.
  10. wow. 11s!! i would love to hit 11s or even 12s. but i'm just hoping for low 13s in a couple weeks after some more tuning. fty spec was 15s back in 1972. but how much more do i need before i have to think about brakes, suspension, tires, transmission, u-joints, axle, etc? lol what is "grout filled to bottom of welsh plugs"? i had the MPG Port Plates on the intake and exhaust. but i couldn't get them to seal very well on the exhaust side. when i had the blow by problem last April, I suspected the problem were the intake tongues so I removed them both, but it turned out to be the Timing Chain Cover. the Sanderson headers have a raised flange, thus they are gasketsless and gaskets actually create a leak. they were installed with gaskets between the block and plate, but no gasket betw plate and header. Thus, i have to rethink how to install the Port Plates with or without gaskets on the block side IF i want to try them again. Wondering if I can be leak-free just using RTV ONLY on both sides of the port plates?
  11. Near-stock rebuild, standard stroke 351C with 4V Open Chamber 030 overbore 280 rwHP @ 5900 = 400-466 HP (est. sae gross) 286 rwTQ @ 4000 = 408-476 TQ (est. sae gross) Build Specs & Dyno Report here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-dyno-day-hp-bhp-rwhp-sae-gross-vs-net
  12. great build and dyno numbers Chuck! amazing what 40-50 extra Cubic Inches can do for a Cleveland! how's your vacuum (brakes) on the tighter 106 LSA?
  13. That is a BEAST! Awesome build Jeff! Sooo much hard work... I can relate to being on the floor and re-doing other people's work... over and over again... Congrats!
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