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Everything posted by Dave72Rcode

  1. thanks for that link! bookmarked. that's a lot of history in one gulp. not sure how much of it is true and it seems Pence is an evangelist for the 4V, but a lot of it does make sense... optimized for .600" lift, 7000 RPM, Nascar racing, iron crank vs steel, bottom end built to handle 7000+ rpm, drag racers vs nascar, rousch v hank the crank...lol to handle 600 lift and 7000 rpm, the top end components (non-R code) for most 351C probably needed to be beefed up with conversion to studs & guide plates, dual springs, single groove valves needed to matched up a higher lift cam
  2. @Butch65 - never too late.. Jet Hot or your local powder coater... or d-i-y ceramic paint from the parts store... @SDStang - don't get mad at me if you don't like em. :)
  3. hello from california.. love watching this yt channel of a 1973 mach 1 rebuild from a rust bucket to rallying in Tasmania... but horrible crash... hope they resurrect her! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGpvXHsLuFQ2DYNFetjOzHA
  4. [i've heard mixed things about them. YELP and a few other places. What's your experience? How long have you had them. Quality, customer service?] Sanderson have 2 people in the office. and it's old school. they were at Good Guys West Coast Nationals last weekend and have large display. so, they don't hide from the public. you can buy their stuff from Summit Racing now. their main focus are HOT RODS... check out these TWISTER HEADERS... http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-Twister-Outside-Chassis-Header-for-Small-Block-Ford.html i got mine CERAMIC COATED... they are nice. no gaskets... just RTV... with Stage 8 bolts, NO LEAKS... fits in same place as stock manifolds.. no clearance issues. my former long tube hookers were beat up and leaky from hitting speed bumps...
  5. Butch, welcome. i think MPG will say that they yield the most benefit and i'm sure they will be happy to sell you a set. :D honestly, i felt a little more grunt down low when i had them in. but that is subjective. no hard #s. but a couple weeks ago, i dyno'd at 286 rwTQ (est 425-450 TQ-gross) without them and i'm ok with that since the orig fty spec was 286 tq-net at the flywheel. The ONLY 3 things I've done that deviates from STOCK that probably contributes to the huge increase, seem to be 030 overbore adding 6 cubic inches, slightly higher lift cam (0.030+) over stock (0.491-.505ish), and the sanderson shorties. everything else is bone stock or near stock. the intake tongues & port plates are a "bolt on" solution to turn a 4V into a 2V or 3V more or less, but with a lot more velocity (pushing same amount of air but thru a smaller hole?) than a 2V. i think people with LONG TUBE headers on a stock stroke 351C might benefit the most since long tubes seem to reduce the HP and TQ #s down low while raising the HP's up higher... the port plates might help to move the power band back down a little... stroker motors can forget about the port plates, they solved the TQ problem with displacement. comparing my original Boss 351 exh manifolds (headers) to the Sanderson shorties, i don't see much difference in "packaging" (space used). The only real difference are the longer individual tubes and 3" collector vs the Boss's 2-1/4" collector. Standard 351C 4V had 2" collectors, as i recall. on street motors, i think larger collectors reduce TQ at lower RPM but helps HP at higher RPMs. sorry for writing another book... ugh...
  6. i decided to sell my MPG port plates... $45 (50% off reg price) + shipping. if anyone wants them, PM me. i can't seem to seal them correctly with my Sanderson headers, due to their raised flange design, but if you have stock exhaust manifolds or Hooker headers, they should work just fine.. FYI, my near-stock O/C 4V 351C (280HP/286TQ REAR WHEELS) is making #s at the rear wheels, similar to modern Mach 1s with all motor 4.6 http://www.dynoperformance.com/article_details.php?article_id=27 and our 351 4Vs seem to be as strong as or slightly stronger than our fellow 1971 429 Big Block brethren (370HP fty rating = 255HP rear)... http://www.429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/new_page_39.htm
  7. Thanks Ray... I actually installed the Q/R 2.7 turns L2L constant ratio earlier this year (February)... like the Corvette and Trans Am WS6 ps box... it's responsive on the twisties... but you can't dose off on the straights or else you might find yourself in the next lane over... i'm still tuning air pressure, camber, etc. and learning to drive it... i have 255/295 front/rear, cut coils, lowered 4.5 leaf rears with bilsteins... she's fun for canyon carving, flew over the Sierras from Sacto-Reno & back, often leading the pack at 75-90 mph, back and forth with a modded blacked out late model Vette... but had a couple scary moments, darting lanes, following ruts in the road... lowered the air pressure helped, but not sure how long the tires will last now... but then, again, it's not like it's my daily driver
  8. ok to rant... feel your pain... been there... oh yes, i've been there... i've decided to go with "functional" daily driver or performance parts vs super expensive concourse stuff... ive had problems with fuel sender, parking brake, brakes, alternator, starter, solenoid, carb, transmission, axle, distributor, power steering pump, headers, wiring harness, fog lights, battery, timing chain cover, water pump... i guess, just about everything has been replaced so far... i even did the LED lights like you too... you just don't know what will FAIL next until you drive it... ENJOY the Process!
  9. i went with dynacorn when we stripped the car to bare metal... the original hood was too far gone... the BOW in the middle was extremely pronounced. i had a very good body man... he placed 4x4's, then 2x4's under the hood and pressed down hard (jumped on it is more like it) at the front of the hood... but it was freaky to see how much force he had to put down on it... but eventually, it was MASSAGED into place... nice gaps... looks nice.
  10. wow. 11s!! i would love to hit 11s or even 12s. but i'm just hoping for low 13s in a couple weeks after some more tuning. fty spec was 15s back in 1972. but how much more do i need before i have to think about brakes, suspension, tires, transmission, u-joints, axle, etc? lol what is "grout filled to bottom of welsh plugs"? i had the MPG Port Plates on the intake and exhaust. but i couldn't get them to seal very well on the exhaust side. when i had the blow by problem last April, I suspected the problem were the intake tongues so I removed them both, but it turned out to be the Timing Chain Cover. the Sanderson headers have a raised flange, thus they are gasketsless and gaskets actually create a leak. they were installed with gaskets between the block and plate, but no gasket betw plate and header. Thus, i have to rethink how to install the Port Plates with or without gaskets on the block side IF i want to try them again. Wondering if I can be leak-free just using RTV ONLY on both sides of the port plates?
  11. Near-stock rebuild, standard stroke 351C with 4V Open Chamber 030 overbore 280 rwHP @ 5900 = 400-466 HP (est. sae gross) 286 rwTQ @ 4000 = 408-476 TQ (est. sae gross) Build Specs & Dyno Report here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-dyno-day-hp-bhp-rwhp-sae-gross-vs-net
  12. great build and dyno numbers Chuck! amazing what 40-50 extra Cubic Inches can do for a Cleveland! how's your vacuum (brakes) on the tighter 106 LSA?
  13. That is a BEAST! Awesome build Jeff! Sooo much hard work... I can relate to being on the floor and re-doing other people's work... over and over again... Congrats!
  14. Displacement is an amazing cure-all... nice build and sick hp/tq #s! must be a load of fun
  15. i remember watching this test (saved on my DVR) and referenced to it as i selected my top end rebuild components last year. used these 2 episodes more as a reference in what NOT to do for my 4V build. 1. Single planes live at 6000-7000-8000 RPM on a small block (302 - 351)... but will do well as low as 4000 on a Big Block or Stroker motor. LESSON: DON'T USE A SINGLE PLANE ON A 4V UNLESS YOU STROKE THE MOTOR OR PEAK YOUR POWER BAND ABOVE 6500 RPM. 2. The fast acting cam with 224 dur and moderate lift of 566 is a good street cam if mated to a dual plane intake. LESSON: IF YOU HAVE DUAL PLANE, OR AS IN MY CASE, A FTY SPREADBORE INTAKE, AND IF YOU ONLY PLAN TO OPERATE BELOW 6500 RPM, USE IT. DON'T MATCH A 4V TO SINGLE PLANE AND EXPECT TO OPERATE DECENTLY BELOW 5500 RPM. THE 4V IS MADE TO ROCK ABOVE 6500 WITH A SINGLE PLANE AND BELOW 6500 WITH A DUAL PLANE. THE 2V'S SMALLER RUNNERS WILL FLOW BETTER BELOW 5500RPM SINCE VELOCITY IS HIGHER DOWN LOW. 3. The show's Comp cam peaked at 5500 rpm... too low on a 4V?? when i talked to Comp tech for my build, they kept trying to sell me on a 112 LSA. I wanted 106-108 for my 4V. so, i just avoid Comp Cams for now. many variables could be causing the problem, fuel, air, cam... if they moved the CAM timing to 109, 108, 107, 106... I think they would start peaking at 6500-7000. at that point, the 4V with single plane will scream as it finds its sweet spot up high. LESSON: COMP CAMS ARE NOT THE ONLY GAME IN TOWN. 110-112 LSA IS NOT MANDATORY. 109 LSA STILL HAS GOOD VACUUM. SEEK 220-230 DURATION AND 550-600+ LIFT IF POSSIBLE IN A STREET 4V APPLICATION.. I WENT WITH CAM RESEARCH, WHO SPEC'D A CAM BASED ON MY RPM RANGE, MY COMPONENTS, DRIVING STYLE, GOAL TO HAVE A MOTOR LAST 100,000 MILES... 4. the 2V will shine at 2000-4000. if the Cam was peaking at 5500 rpm, this will magnify the 2V performance parameters down low.. LESSON: NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE 2V. IT'S GOOD ESPECIALLY IF YOU FOCUS ON TORQUE BELOW 5500 RPM. THE 2V IS STOPLIGHT TO STOPLIGHT BEAST. THE 2V MIGHT RUN OUT OF AIR ABOVE 5500 RPM. above is pure speculative babble on my part because i'm not an expert or professional... don't listen to me...
  16. The Dynomax VTs are mild... relatively quiet, but there is this reversion sound that is pretty fat and low subwoofer-like FEEL-able, at certain frequencies as the valve fights between open and closed. She used to have rusty long tube Hooker headers and 2-chamber Delta 44s. EXTREMELY LOUD, leaky, and hot. My wife was too embarrassed to cruise with me. It sounded like a race car, everywhere I went. Sometimes, I miss that In Your Face sound. But with the Dynomax, I can sneak up on people, then REV to 6000, shock 'em as the valves fully open to some pretty big cheers. I added resonated tips, so the sound is mellowed at tailpipes too...
  17. making memories.. what it's all about! have fun!
  18. that Mach 1 is sick! way to represent the rebel and dark side in us!
  19. can't wait to see a big $$$ build here.. that motor alone is $25k++!! not jealous... excited!
  20. it's the last of the V8 interceptors! love it! can't wait for the new Road Warrior coming out next year... a friend's son in Australian worked on some of the animation CGI parts in the film... just got my 1972 running in decent in 2014 and the new Road Warrior film debuts next year... i first saw the Road Warrior in 1982, then bought my 72 a year later in 1983... strange timing... cheers!
  21. Nice car! Paint scheme on hood to door panels to roof panel reminds me of Maier's and other Trans-Am / SCCA 7173 race cars of the early 70s... Red rocker panels would set it off real nice imho for the Mexican Sprint theme, as opposed to the US Sprint theme, but what do i know...?
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