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Everything posted by 72Mike

  1. Like Don, we're planning this swap, and watching your work with interest. Thanks for sharing. Mark
  2. Mr. Mac - Excellent choice! We did the same for our youngest son years ago, as he always had a strong affinity for mechanical stuff (read taking things apart and leaving them all over the place). Now he's a FT tech, doing very well both taking them apart and putting them back together. And his enormous tool collection and box put my stuff to shame. Feed the need. Mark
  3. Looks fast, and very aerodymanic. What size wheels are those? Lol Oops...aerodynamic. not enuf coffee yet.
  4. Always a tragedy. Dan's death has hit our community and his adopted home of St. Petersburg especially hard, as he was deeply involved in many worthwhile community projects and efforts. He was seen out and about often, and highly regarded for being a quality guy, beyond his racing skill.
  5. Hi, Chuck. I'd like the 3-gauge bezel. Don't need the gauges, just the bezel. Please PM me and let me know what you'd like for it, and for shipping to 33781. Thanks. Mark
  6. Welcome, Ron. Like others, would love to see pics. Or, if you ever cross the bridge to St. Pete, I'd enjoy meeting you and seeing your car in person. Mark
  7. Thought the Cobra Jet designation was exclusive to the 429. True?
  8. Not mine, but here's one that might be worth a look for folks near the south. http://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/2335142234.html
  9. Hey, Bob - While the notion of parting out just a hood seems odd to me, I do have a need for part of the front bracing for mine, if you're willing to keep the sawzall running. I'll get a pic of the area I need tomorrow and maybe between Don and I, we can offset a small portion of your new hood. Thanks. Mark
  10. Also noticed the post includes Scott's favorite phrase..."no rust".
  11. ::welcome::, Ed. Look forward to seeing some pics of your car and following your progress. Mark
  12. Thanks, Don. That's perfect, since my original 72 doors are going back on the car, but I started stripping the doors from my 73 donor first. They looked like rivets at first, but when I looked closely it appeared that there are threads on them, but I'm guessing now that those are just tool marks left at the rivet was driven in.
  13. and use a little heat from a gas wrench or find a large nut that fits over it snugly then weld the two nuts together before it cools put a socket on and break it lose the larger diameter nut gives you more torque the heat from the weld too. ps dont weld the threads! lol Big day - congrats, Doc! I've also had success with the method snoozingpony suggests. Mark
  14. Scott, Congratulations on the breath of fresh air...for both of you. Mark
  15. To remove the glass from the door...do I need to drill out the rivets on the bracket that attaches the glass to the guidebar, or is there some puzzle-like trick that I'm missing to remove the glass from the door with the bracket still attached? Thanks. Mark
  16. ::welcome::, smoozing pony. You'll find LOTS of enablers here :P Mark
  17. Thanks, guys. You're absolutely right, and I knew the answer as I typed the question. Was hoping somebody would give me a pass, but I appreciate that you didn't. It's just tempting to see a dozen pinners in a few square inch area and think bang bang bang done. Guess it's measure, cut, fit, trim, clean, tack, bead, grind, prime, done. Hahaha
  18. Do you have a rule of thumb you use when deciding whether to plug pinholes with the MIG or cut a patch panel? I've got a few (:P) clusters of these holes that I could pop pretty quickly with the MIG, then grind. But in some cases, the cluster of pinholes can measure a few inches wide. Not to sound like an idiot (I know they call them PINholes for a reason), is there a maximum size hole that you would plug? And for a cluster of pinholes measuring several inches, would you cut a patch, or just plug them all. Thanks for your thoughts. Mark
  19. Looks like a great project - a vision of my car six months ago. In my humble advice, make sure you bag, tag, photograph and measure everything you can as you begin pulling it apart. You've got plenty of support here - both technical and motivational - so don't hesitate to ask for either. In particular, make sure you watch Q's videos, and follow his outstanding work. Looking forward to following your progress. Mark
  20. middle of floor seat belt attaching point Perfect! Thanks, Scott.
  21. Pappy, you get my vote for "best father in-law, ever!". :angel: Beautiful build. That must be one heckuva son in-law you have.
  22. Thanks in advance, Scott, for the measurements and recommendations. The pans came from CJ Pony Parts.
  23. Nice fit Mike ! How are you welding in ? butt joint or overlap ? Also did you measure from the edge of the rocker to the bottom of the pan in a few places before cutting out the old ones ? Scott Thanks, Scott. I'm a novice welder, so I'm more comfortable with an overlap. I left about 9/16 overlap to allow a 1/2 flange (on the tunnel) and about a 1/16" gap to run my weld bead. Unfortunately, I did not take the rocker to pan measurements you mentioned. I assumed (haha) that with the pan properly seated on the frame rails and rear seat area that it would be correct. As I type this, I realize the frame rails could have moved and thrown that off. I should still be able to follow the line of old spot welds on the rocker to get a line on where the old pan was. Do you think that's sufficient, or should I double check it with something else? Thanks.
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