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afeng79

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Everything posted by afeng79

  1. Alright guys, I can confirm I purchased the GAUGE sender at autozone instead of the LIGHT sender! How do I know? Because they look vastly different and when I told the parts counter at Autozone what I needed I was thinking in terms of the 71 Thunderbird instrument cluster since that's what the motor came out of. For those of you with swap motors or swap items on the engine making your car a Frankenstang, I'm sure you can attest to the confusion when going to a parts store counter. Rookie move. Nevertheless, I ended up working very late all week and didn't have the chance to hook up the oil pressure gauge to see what I have. I'm sure it's nominal pressure but peace of mind is priceless. I'll update this thread with the oil pressures I have at various RPM ranges and see how it compares to what yall have seen on your engine.
  2. Yea I might opt for getting a gauge installed inside the car. I can't believe they didn't provide a gauge for something so important on the base non-Mach1 models. BTW, is it really only 5 psi minimum? That seems low but I've seen that number floating around other BBF forums. I've been told that pressure and flow are two totally different things and to not get them mixed up. You can have good flow but low pressure or bad flow with great pressure. Thanks for all the tips.
  3. Well I am anxious to get home after work and put a gauge to it. It's been bugging me all day. I think when I went to autozone for that new sending unit I opted for the one without gauges. But who knows. Anyways I think harbor freight has an oil pressure gauge for $24.99. What pressure should I be looking for? I've heard everywhere from 10 psi idle to 65 psi idle on these BBF engines!
  4. Hey all, I got around to get the 429 TJ motor in my 72 running. Everything is hooked up and no visible leaks anywhere after running for about 3 minutes at idle with occasional revs. I get in the car to turn it off and notice the oil light on the instrument panel is lit up. I quickly shut off the engine and start to worry. To make sure the sending unit wiring wasn't haywire I unplugged it from the sending unit while running and sure enough as expected it turned off. So now I know its not the old wiring sending a bad signal. Do I really have low oil pressure and if so how low? Well I unscrewed the oil pressure sending unit at the back of the intake manifold, left it off completely, turned the car on and for about 3 seconds watched the volcano of oil shoot out from the sending unit hole, deflect off the hood and go EVERYWHERE. Ok so, now I'm confused. Doesn't this mean I have pretty significant oil pressure for it to shoot out like that especially at the very farthest point away from the oil pump? Could this be a bad brand new sending unit or is there something else I'm not considering? Please help. Next step is to hook up a oil pressure gauge there and see what I got. I'll post the results once I do. Also, I did replace the oil pump and pickup before running the engine.
  5. So I ended up putting the cam gear and chain back on and installed the cam bolt tight but not torqued down. I then put a screwdriver into one of the cam gear holes and used the block around the distributor as leverage so that when I turned the crank bolt, the screwdriver was holding the cam gear in place and allowed me to take off the crank bolt without moving anything. Obviously, you have to have the timing set installed to do this. In the future, I'll avoid this! The cam had to be corrected a hair to line the dowel up on the new timing set. I'm guessing that the old loose timing chain actually caused the cam to be about 1-2 degrees off? Anyways, I ended up having to use a wrench and leverage to move the cam that hair over. I might not do things the easiest or most conventional way but I get it done! Now off to tap the hole on the block where I broke one of the long water pump bolts in.
  6. I might end up trying each of these tactics tomorrow depending on what tools I'll have available. The problem is that everything is stripped down to the timing gears and so I can line up the marks and when I go to loosen the crank bolt to get the sprocket off, the crank gets turned a bit and throws off my marks. Since everything is stripped down I don't have anything but to pry against. I kinda screwed myself on this one. Very frustrating.
  7. I'm replacing the timing chain and gears on the motor and while the job is pretty easy and straight forward, I need some advice on getting around an obstacle. Long story short, how do I remove the crankshaft bolt (harmonic balancer bolt) without turning the crankshaft? I need to slide the crank sprocket off and I can't with the bolt on there. But if I try to remove the bolt, naturally it turns the engine a bit and I need the cam and crank lined up at TDC so it cannot move it all. Is this possible without using an impact wrench?
  8. I should have the C4 crossmember laying around as well after doing my trans swap. Might be extremely oily though :)
  9. For anyone else wondering about zinc additive levels in oil, this is a pretty good read: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/ I have never bought zinc additive but now consider doing it. Bottom line is that stuff helps with starting the car and running it initially with the downside being carbon build up over time.
  10. Well that's just the problem. I had never planned to but you can tell a lot about an engine's health from taking off the top end and front end and I didn't like what I saw. It was supposedly a running engine according to the guy I got it from but I'm now skeptical about that after seeing it all. The car fired up and ran just fine (sounded great with the dual flowmasters actually!) for the 30 seconds I had it running before tearing it apart so I know there's nothing majorly wrong. The one thing I noticed was a little bit of excessive smoke/vapor coming out of that stock breather cap. Not sure if that could be old buildup or old oil. I didn't see any oil in my radiator so I don't think it has a head gasket leak causing vapor out the crankcase. I have access to an engine puller so I might have to go that route but I really really....really didn't want to. UPDATE: I had to drill into that bolt stuck in the block for an hour slowly shredding it into shavings to make way for a helicoil. Not what I wanted to do but it happens. Does anyone know if Napa timing covers are any good?
  11. Awesome advice for a novice like myself. I don't think I can justify going with a timing cover for that much. Found one on Jegs for $90 so I'll give that one a shot. Here's the timing set I'm leaning towards: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-3122 I'll look at my budget and see if I can squeeze a new manifold in :). I've found myself in a mess with uncovering parts of the engine. Now I decided I'm replacing the oil pan, oil pump, and pickup tube (while the pan is off). Any idea if I can lift up the engine enough to pull off the stock pan and put a new stock pan back in? It needs replacing because I don't have peace of mind with the large dent right underneath the oil pump.
  12. What timing cover did you use for your 460 build? Is it stock or aftermarket? I'm looking for an aftermarket with a solid quality and fit. Any suggestions based off what you have?
  13. Thanks TommyK. Good insight into all the questions I have. So since this is only one step up from stock I really won't get the horsepower gains that are typical from getting a performance cam? My goal is to have a semi-hot street cruiser so a cam with a range from idle to 3000 would probably be best for that application. This seems like it would have that. As far as roller rockers, I only considered them because I've heard of at least a 10 hp gain across the power band (I could be off on this). Seeing as how there's tons of variations of them on summit racing, I'm debating opening up that can of worms and getting myself into something I'm not familiar with. I wanted to go double roller but not sure what you're referring to as the oil slinger? Also, will the stock timing cover fit with a double roller? Have you used any of the timing covers from summit that are Pioneer brand or Dorman? Only reason I ask is because those two brands are almost $100 cheaper than the summit brand of timing cover and also have questionable reviews that mention poor fit and quality.
  14. Hey all, long story short, I removed my water pump from the used 429 motor sitting in the car because it was leaking from the weep hole on the bottom when I went to fill her up with fluid. Took the water pump off and found this: When I took off the pump I broke one of the bolts going from the pump through the cover and into the block :@. Then I decided, well I better take off the timing cover because this looks pretty terrible plus I need to fix this broken bolt. I started taking the timing cover off and after an hour of prying it off the rusted stuck bolt, I ended up cracking it (it was the only way it was going to come off!). Upon looking at the timing chain I noticed it was pretty loose. Now I want to replace that but since I'm in it this far, I figured hell lets throw a cam in it and since I'm doing that I might as well replace the rockers with rollers. (By the way, I am planning on doing the cam with heads still on the car. I also want to know if this CAN be done. I was advised it can by a reputable source) The cam I am initially thinking of going with is this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3500 . Does this look like a good cam for a street application and does anyone know the correct roller rockers to use to match this engine application? I started looking up roller rockers and was overwhelmed with all the different options (stud type, etc). Not sure where to start...Does anyone know?
  15. I'm so sorry for your loss. Thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.
  16. Just as an update to this post. I called NAPA and they told me they do fabricate hydraulic hoses to any specification you give them. I headed down to the local NAPA and took the stock hose and saginaw PS pump with me. They were able to take off the metal end up to the connection to the rubber hose and replace it with an 8" section of brake line piping with 3/8" male inverted flare threads on both sides. This made it much easier and I walked out the door paying $5.00. Hooked it right in to the pump and hose. This makes the conversion even easier for anyone looking to modify their power steering pump. Now I end up waiting for CVF racing to ship me the spacers they did not include in their saginaw bracket kit....
  17. Wow thanks. I didn't know NAPA did that but I'll check with them.
  18. Does anyone know the correct adapter I need to hook up a GM style saginaw pump to the stock power steering pressure hose? I have tried 3/8 NPT to 3/8 NPT and that apparently is not the correct size. After researching for a while I found the mustang pressure hose fitting is 16mm? Has anyone done this conversion before? Even knowing the stock power steering line fitting size would be helpful.
  19. That's a story to tell to the grandkids. I too was in a similar situation with budget and as you said, the military makes it hard to have a project car (we all know they don't move cars for us in CONUS). I'm glad she's getting restored. I have a few places in El Paso for bodywork I might be able to recommend that my family has used for years (whenever you get to that point).
  20. Can I chime in and ask if all 71-73's came with a rear sway bar? My 72 does not have one with its 8 inch. Does this mean all unibodies came with the places to mount one then?
  21. Anyone know a way around uploading a 30 MB file onto the forum? Really don't want to upload each picture separately. Maybe I'll just provide a link to a google docs page? Hmmmm....ideas?
  22. Sprayfoam, seafoam, must be the same thing :chin: I followed the directions on the can and did it through a vacuum port, then some in the tank and some in the crankcase. Oh yea and it will smoke like crazy. Be prepared for quite a mess flushing the radiator. My neighbors still look at the brown stains on the street gullies from all the rust i flushed out!
  23. That color looks great on that car. I don't know what it is about yours... but I've never liked that color on any other car. True to its era.
  24. I'm guilty of sealing Windsor block thermostats with silicone IN ADDITION to a gasket. That's mainly because the flange opening on that particular intake manifold was warped and would NEVER seal perfectly. This was on my 79 F100. If you have that problem a new intake manifold will fix all seal problems. Also I found the best way to clean out a cooling system is by running a garden hose through the upper and lower radiator hose. I did this when I found muddy color antifreeze from rust in my system. Also, not sure what the history on the motor is but I just ran Seafoam through my 351W (junkyard swap motor) in my 79 F100 and it made a hell of a difference (in a good way). Might help clean out deposits and other stuff in the motor if the owner was that bad with engine maintenance.
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