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  • My Car
    1972 Mustang Convertible


  • Location
    Vancouver BC, Canada

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Enthusiast (6/14)

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  1. Ya the horn incident was about 4 years ago, have learnt since... This is just this first time I've had to look at the ignition switch since. So any idea where that ground goes? Otherwise I should be able to run a new wire ground wire to the column from any good ground correct?
  2. Interesting, so the entire red/green wire is resisted? Or is there a section of resisted wire somewhere?
  3. I had horn problems with my aftermarket steering wheel. It blew the fuse immediately and when I put another fuse in it just honked constantly, could this be that hot wire on the steering column you're talking about? EDIT: Actually now thinking back to it... I did have a spark fly one time with that horn and my steering wheel... That must've been it. Regardless I will have to replace that ground wire, hoping to do so without tearing the factory loom apart and running a new ground outside of the loom. Do you know where the wire is supposed to be grounded too? As for the resistor wire is it the pink and white one? I've read everywhere the resistor wire is pink, but all the way up at the coil the wire is red and green... EDIT I have a factory tach dash that was converted my rocketman if that makes a difference. I've been running a petronix coil 40111, which is internally resisted... I wonder if I've been running the car double resisted? https://pertronix.com/pertronix-40111-flame-thrower-coil-40-000-volt-1-5-ohm-black-epoxy.html#.Xr4jI5NKg1I Thanks for all your help Don, your posts have saved me a number of times. Adam
  4. Hey Guys, Took a look under my dash today to check if I still had a resistor wire at the ignition switch and found the ground burnt. Saw another owner also had a similar problem with the ground melting, any common causes for this? Mine looks like the picture below, but it's burnt after the connector. If not, any clues as to where that ground separates from the main harness after the fuse box? Really don't want to have to tear apart the whole harness... Also does anyone see the resistor wire in the picture? I thought it was supposed to be a solid pink wire, but the closest mine are are red striped. Everything looks stock, but I get a full 12v at the coil on the run position... Any help would be great! Thanks, Adam
  5. Awesome thanks! Will probably end up getting that one than as stall is a little higher. Seems a lot of the other options are 10" which is unfortunate.
  6. Had a similar problem with my car except would almost seem stuck between gears... Was a weird sensation turned out to be my kickdown rod.
  7. Hello again, This is kind of a continuation of my last post, but wanted to make it a separate thread so hopefully it is easy and clear for people wondering in the future. Ordering a converter for my stock FMX in my '72 Mustang, wondering if it is a 10" core or a 12.75" core (referring to diameter) as the title suggests. Hoping to have the converter delivered before taking my old one out, as the car cannot be out of commission for longer than a weekend because of where I'm storing it. Otherwise I'd just take the thing out and measure it for myself, but thats not an option currently so hoping one of you bright folks know :) Thanks, Adam
  8. No overheating problems, car happily sits at 185-195 even on the hottest days so hopefully I'll be good! Gotcha, I understand why there is a difference, just hoping the 2500 isn't too mild on my 351c. I would like the stall speed to be 2500, so maybe I should get one rated at 3000 instead? This is assuming the Cleveland is like a regular small block and will flash 300-500rpm less than Hughe's big block rating of 2500 leaving me at 2200-2000rpm...
  9. Okay awesome to know it's 29, yea hopefully someone knows for sure whether 10 or 12". Would like to do the converter over a weekend, so going to have to order the converter before actually taking my old one out! The Hughes converter says it's 12.75in diameter so I hope mine is too ::thumb::
  10. Gotcha mine are too. Yes 4r70w seems the way to go, hopefully I will in the future as well. Glad to hear your stock setup has been good, I will keep mine!
  11. Another couple things I forgot to mention: Is our built-in trans cooler enough for a 2500 converter? I've read people saying there is a need for an aftermarket trans cooler if upgrading the converter, but am hoping that is only the case for applications that don't have one stock? Hughes says their 2500 rpm stall is rated for a big block and a small block will be 300-500rpm lower. Given that our 351cs are midway between a big and small block what do you think the stall speed will be? 2200? Also would my stock FMX on my '72 Mustang 351c 2v be a 29 spline or a 32 spline? 10" core or 12" core... too many options I'm bound to order something that doesn't fit hahahaha Thanks again!
  12. Beautiful. Yea sounds like Hughes has a good reputation, but even more reassuring to hear from someone like you that actually runs one, thanks for the response!
  13. Thank you for the info! How tall are your rear wheels/tires? I'm looking to stroke in the future as well, but for now going to work with what I got for the quickest daily-able setup I can :) Overdrive would be great, just gotta save some money then pick between the AODe vs a gear vendors unit on a c4
  14. Fabrice!! Thanks for watching, hopefully I get more videos out soon especially with the new additions of the coronet and el camino :) Yea after reading the responses to this post sounds like the 2500 Hughes will be a good option. Too many BMWs and Mercedes running around Vancouver, the ol mustang needs all the help it can get to stay competitive lollerz
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