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Everything posted by sicndhed

  1. I bought it from Eddie at ADCO Mustangs in Harrison AR. It's the fifth I've bought from him (66,67,69 and two 71s). The others are all projects. The one I bought yesterday was for parts. I'll probably sell the shell after I get my stuff off it. If you're considering something from Eddie I can shoot pictures for you. He and his wife don't do much in the way of social media/internet.
  2. Was this a pewter 71 fastback that you bought? It's peeling yellow. The nose is grabber blue underneath and trying to be blue again. Had a half vinyl roof that messed up the metal up there.
  3. I think you did fine. I was doing the same thing today. I bought a '71 parts car this afternoon. It looks to have been "MACHed" from a base model a long time ago. I'll be getting a hood, deluxe interior door hardware, tach, clutch pedals, tail light panel honeycomb, rear end, urethane bumper and front discs. Price situation was similar to what you encountered. Part of the deal is I have to pull and return the engine.
  4. A '66 427 with a '67 hood. Had it for about a year.
  5. Did a dropped tube axle in a '66. I moved the place where the frame gets taller back to help keep the nose down. Lots of room for a any engine once the shock towers are gone. After I got the suspension in the project got put away so I can't comment on how it rides (yet).
  6. The low end performance of the engine is a big factor in happy overdrive gearing. My 2000 Viper has a .5 sixth gear and with a 3.07 ring and pinion. Sixth can be used at 60 mph quite easily. I have the same trans in a '72 Vette and a 3.55 final drive. When it had a 427 in it with a 246 @ 50 cam, 70 MPH was about the slowest it was happy in sixth. When it had a mild 350 with a 196 @ 50 cam it was easy to use sixth down to about 63 MPH. I have an 11.5 :1 compression 406 in a Camaro that required a slower advance curve when I installed a TKO600 in it. It had been fine with the 1:1 four speed but even with the slower curve, 2000 rpm is about as low as I take it in fifth. After doing six overdrive conversions in muscle cars I've found that carb and ignition tuning can get very picky as you try to use numerically lower overall ratios especially with any kind of performance cam and compression. There are a lot of hills where I live and that makes tuning even more important in trying to avoid constant downshifting. If it's flat where you live it will be easier to use low rpm/OD combinations. Heat comes into play too. Adding OD to older cars can put them into a situation (high load/low rpm) that is a asking for detonation.
  7. If it was TYCO PRO question I could ask Pat Dennis but I doubt if he's got any thing to add about this one.
  8. Don't know how rare but it is cool. Solid rivet?
  9. There was another strike in '72. When it was resolved about 1100 semi-complete Camaros and Firebirds were crushed as there were too many issues with finishing them. I saw a photo of a bunch of them stacked two high while waiting to be crushed. I wish my '78 was a '72 (not a crushed one though).
  10. Throttle response is going to be insane :)
  11. I bought an Innovate. It just quite working after about three years. I found it very useful. My biggest surprise was observing how at other than WOT hitting theoretical AFR targets did not always produce good drivability. I often had to be a bit rich to get a smooth and responsive running engine. I believe the reason for this is the meter is reading the average AFR of the bank being sampled. Any lean cylinders will hut the way the engine runs a lot more than some cylinders that are a bit too rich. This along with reversion and other issues with a larger cam require added fuel as a sort of a crutch ( timing curves were modified for the cams and compression). I thought that maybe I was getting less than accurate numbers for a while but I ran one car on an engine dyno and the dyno's AFR ratios were very close to mine. I found that I did not use data logging much. Real time driving a typically gave me adequate information to then adjust carbs. Having a passenger can call out numbers at a few key times and make it very easy to be ready to tune as soon as we stopped the car. On cars with smaller cams (less than about mid 230s @ .050) getting close to theoretical targets tended to produce a great driving car. I liked the unit enough to buy a second one.
  12. IIRC, Sulfur is added to gear oil to aid their ability to prevent wear in high psi loads faced by gears. It is also a problem in engine oil as it promotes formation of acid when exposed to combustion byproducts.
  13. Pretty cool. Be prepared to explain it to people who see it.
  14. A general comment, I never wanted one till I bought a Vette that had it. It took about ten minutes and now I can't imagine ordering a new car without it. I've been looking at add on units but haven't pulled the trigger for my older cars. I've heard that a standard windshield usually works pretty well compared to one "designed" for HUD.
  15. Although I got my first car ('70 Bug) during sophomore year I didn't have a drivers license till part way through senior year so bicycles were my good friends too. I wish I still had them but they were sold to pay for insurance. Started HS with a '71 Schwinn Super Sport and replaced it with a '72 PX10. Over the years I came across appropriate substitutes. They are just like cars. I found proper pedals on French ebay and a set of NOS brakes locally. I just wish the frame a bit larger.
  16. A friend near Chicago pays 20K on a 625 house. Ouch.
  17. I won't mention Arkansas taxes. No need to upset some of you.
  18. IIRC when Vipers and Prowlers came out the dealers were trying for double MSRP. If the Demon is only built for one year I bet the rices are going to be up there.
  19. Factory tach is "current sensing two wire" vs "voltage sensing three wire" for modern aftermarket tachs. The aftermarket wiring won't help with a factory tach. IIRC it is sort of a plug and play to add the factory tach to a stock car. I'm sure others here will have details.
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