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JoColtrane's Achievements


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  1. I put some extra material (carpet like) on the brace pictured in the 2nd post. To much and it'll inhibit the movement of the window. Not enough and the rattle will still be there. Get it right and not more rattle. Don't remember exactly what I used.
  2. For those that have done this swap or are fairly knowledgeable about it (particularly if an FMX was coming out) what is typically done with the lockout rod. Is there a way to connect it to the new trans? Is there and after market product used to resolve this issue? Or, do most not worry about it. To present it another way, how do you prevent the new trans from being shifted when the key is not in the ignition? Jo
  3. Got it, Thx. Outlet fitting appears to be disintegrated. Any thoughts on getting that out?
  4. Don, Appreciate the reply. That's what I was thinking but then got confused when I started looking at images. If you look at these images the first image shows the port that I have labeled as #3 (in the block). But if you look at the two diagrams outlet appears to be at port on front right of intake manifold. What I have labeled as #1 (top port on water pump) & #3 appear to be looped and what I have labeled as #2 (bottom port on water pump) appears to be the inlet. Am I just reading these wrong or is there more than one set-up? Jo
  5. I don't currently have A/C but may plan on installing it (351c 2v w/ original intake). Need some clarification on the original heater hose connections. What were the original ports where the A/C heater hoses connected. I'm guessing right front intake port and top port on water pump (labeled as #1 in pic below). If I'm incorrect let me know. My question is what are the ports labeled as #2 and especially #3 used for and what type of fittings should be in #3. Currently hose was recirculating from #1 to #3. If you can't tell that's a picture of my water pump. Jo
  6. Think I mistakenly deleted the original post but that's a different story for a different time. Pretty much have my trans installed except for speedo and driveshaft. Will work on speedo today. Got to get u joints for drive shaft. The one hang up I have is the range selector . When in the correct position (see pic) the module reads correctly but the bolt holes don't line up. If I move it to wear I can get bolts in, the sensor is misaligned and not read by module. Has anyone had this issue and/or have a solution? Is there something I'm missing?
  7. Appreciate the replies. That was one of my guesses but I wasn't sure since there weren't any decals or id #'s.
  8. Does anyone recognize what type of ignition coil this is (make, model, spec) or how I might go about identifying it?
  9. Ok, so I disconnected the fuse block from the harness and then put it back together and now I have no spark but am not really sure if the two are related. Checked connectors for resistance wire and all seems to be good. Coil is good and solenoid is being energized cause engine turns over but just no spark. Car started fine when I bypassed solenoid. So is it: 1) Resistance wire issue that I'm not catching 2) Bad solenoid 3) Improper assembly of fuse block to harness 4) Something that I'm not considering Jo
  10. Have the following parts if anyone is interested. These are off of a 71 coupe. Original parts: LCA UCA Exhaust Manifold Tie Rods Front anti Sway Bar Steering Idler Arm Rear Spring shackles Gauge Lens Dog Dish Hub Caps Styled wheel trim ring Front Shocks Used parts: rear shocks New items: Battery Tray Tail Light Panel Reply if interested.
  11. Do you have any pics. May be interested in #2 and #5.
  12. Selling the following parts. NEW ITEMS Battery Tray Taillight panel USED ITEMS (original to car) LCA UCA Exhaust Manifolds Tie rods Front anti-sway bar Steering idler arm Rear spring shackles Gauge lense Dog dish hub caps PM if interested. Wheel trim rings Front shocks Rear shocks
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