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JoColtrane

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Everything posted by JoColtrane

  1. I put some extra material (carpet like) on the brace pictured in the 2nd post. To much and it'll inhibit the movement of the window. Not enough and the rattle will still be there. Get it right and not more rattle. Don't remember exactly what I used.
  2. For those that have done this swap or are fairly knowledgeable about it (particularly if an FMX was coming out) what is typically done with the lockout rod. Is there a way to connect it to the new trans? Is there and after market product used to resolve this issue? Or, do most not worry about it. To present it another way, how do you prevent the new trans from being shifted when the key is not in the ignition? Jo
  3. Got it, Thx. Outlet fitting appears to be disintegrated. Any thoughts on getting that out?
  4. Don, Appreciate the reply. That's what I was thinking but then got confused when I started looking at images. If you look at these images the first image shows the port that I have labeled as #3 (in the block). But if you look at the two diagrams outlet appears to be at port on front right of intake manifold. What I have labeled as #1 (top port on water pump) & #3 appear to be looped and what I have labeled as #2 (bottom port on water pump) appears to be the inlet. Am I just reading these wrong or is there more than one set-up? Jo
  5. I don't currently have A/C but may plan on installing it (351c 2v w/ original intake). Need some clarification on the original heater hose connections. What were the original ports where the A/C heater hoses connected. I'm guessing right front intake port and top port on water pump (labeled as #1 in pic below). If I'm incorrect let me know. My question is what are the ports labeled as #2 and especially #3 used for and what type of fittings should be in #3. Currently hose was recirculating from #1 to #3. If you can't tell that's a picture of my water pump. Jo
  6. Think I mistakenly deleted the original post but that's a different story for a different time. Pretty much have my trans installed except for speedo and driveshaft. Will work on speedo today. Got to get u joints for drive shaft. The one hang up I have is the range selector . When in the correct position (see pic) the module reads correctly but the bolt holes don't line up. If I move it to wear I can get bolts in, the sensor is misaligned and not read by module. Has anyone had this issue and/or have a solution? Is there something I'm missing?
  7. Appreciate the replies. That was one of my guesses but I wasn't sure since there weren't any decals or id #'s.
  8. Does anyone recognize what type of ignition coil this is (make, model, spec) or how I might go about identifying it?
  9. Ok, so I disconnected the fuse block from the harness and then put it back together and now I have no spark but am not really sure if the two are related. Checked connectors for resistance wire and all seems to be good. Coil is good and solenoid is being energized cause engine turns over but just no spark. Car started fine when I bypassed solenoid. So is it: 1) Resistance wire issue that I'm not catching 2) Bad solenoid 3) Improper assembly of fuse block to harness 4) Something that I'm not considering Jo
  10. Have the following parts if anyone is interested. These are off of a 71 coupe. Original parts: LCA UCA Exhaust Manifold Tie Rods Front anti Sway Bar Steering Idler Arm Rear Spring shackles Gauge Lens Dog Dish Hub Caps Styled wheel trim ring Front Shocks Used parts: rear shocks New items: Battery Tray Tail Light Panel Reply if interested.
  11. Do you have any pics. May be interested in #2 and #5.
  12. Selling the following parts. NEW ITEMS Battery Tray Taillight panel USED ITEMS (original to car) LCA UCA Exhaust Manifolds Tie rods Front anti-sway bar Steering idler arm Rear spring shackles Gauge lense Dog dish hub caps PM if interested. Wheel trim rings Front shocks Rear shocks
  13. Yeah, I put "condenser" but I meant "compressor". The compressor wire was routed to a switch on the dash when I bought the car and this wire was bypassed. Removed the switch but never reconnected the wire. That was many moons ago. Thanks for the reply.
  14. Evening, 1) On the emissions canister what is the function of the cap on the center vent? Does the canister function properly without the cap? If I needed one where could I get it? 2)What is the wire in the second picture? I think it goes to the a/c condenser but not really sure. Thanks for your help. This is the second picture.
  15. Thanks for the responses. Didn't get to check the cowl area. Looked at the floor from underneath and didn't see any holes but didn't get to pull the carpet.
  16. How much would you pay for this stang? Engine/Trans - tired 302 with C4. It runs. A/C parts/brackets missing. Probably needs overhaul or replacement. Rust - Typical rust issues but overall fair condition. Trunk is rusted out. Lower rear quarter panels rusted out. Paint - chipping/peeling. Panels - Alignment issues with door, fenders, and hood. Interior - Smells like something died. Everything needs replacement. Electrical - Biggest unknown. Lights worked but blinkers didn't. Not sure about gauges. [attachment=28805]
  17. Thanks for the info and suggestions. Going to do some adjusting this weekend if i have time.
  18. Was jacking my 71 by the pumpkin to get some underside cleaning done. As I was jacking noticed that the rear axle seemed to be hanging lower on the right side. As I let it down noticed that the right side settled flush into the jack stand while the left side settled with about 1/3 inch clearance on the other jack stand. Measuring further confirmed what my eyes and then the jack stands were already telling me which is the right side hangs further away from the body than the left side. I'm guessing that: 1) the arcs on the rear springs are different (shouldn't be because they're new), 2) some of the attaching components for the springs are not adjusted properly or 3) There's an issue with the body. Are there any other possibilities that would cause this? What should I be checking?
  19. Are these holes for alignment of some sort? [attachment=28154][attachment=28155]
  20. [attachment=27899]What is this panel/part to the left of the torque box in this picture and is it available anywhere. The issue I'm having is the hole at the bottom of the panel where one of the bottom fender bolts inserts is missing (that part of the panel is torn off). I want to do a proper repair but am also considering just throwing on an L bracket. Thoughts on the part and the proper way to repair?
  21. In the pictures that show the door hinge area there's white conduit for wiring that runs into the door (I'm assuming for speakers and possibly power windows). Was that and the holes original to the car or did you add those?
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