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Everything posted by 73429mach

  1. You will wire through a relay, not a resistor. Use the existing headlight wire feed as the trigger for relay and run a separate power that you can pull from the battery but be sure to protect that with a fuse or circuit breaker. That wiring can all be under hood This will work https://www.cjponyparts.com/redline-lumtronix-headlight-power-upgrade-harness-for-two-headlights-1965-1973/p/HVU1/. https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-hrk-all
  2. My 72 had the bigger strip. You have to buy a supplement kit for the repro, https://www.cjponyparts.com/outer-beltline-weatherstrip-2-piece-supplement-kit-1971-1973/p/WSBL173/ Ryan
  3. Yes, very nice but $43,000 is a little steep.
  4. Can I get power to my aftermarket stereo thru the factory radio plug? The factory plug is a dual female plug. It has two white/pink wires and one blue/red wire. If I can, do I just use the plug with the white/pink wire or do I have to use both the white/pink and the blue/red? Ryan
  5. Thanks Mike! My progress is not quite as quick as yours. Ryan
  6. Thanks guys on the replies. I think I may try the knobs that you listed. Thanks, Ryan
  7. The gauges look nice! This is kinda off the original topic but I noticed you and Eric have aftermarket stereos and you're using the original radio knobs. What stereos are you using and did you have to modify the knobs to fit? I have the customautosound usa-740 and was wanting to replace the knobs with originals but I didn't want to purchase them without knowing if they will fit. Thanks, Ryan
  8. Agree on the great service from Don at OMS. He goes above and beyond! Ryan
  9. Thanks for the reply Don, I'll see if Mike has it, if not then I'll get back to you. Ryan
  10. That would be great Mike! Let me know if you happen to find one. I didn't know mine was broke until I installed the heater box. It's broken where the clamp attaches to it. Ryan
  11. I'm looking for this heater control cable, It’s for a 72 Mustang with a/c. It measures 13 1/2" long. I see that Don has it for 71-73 non a/c cars and for 69-70 a/c cars but not the 71-73 a/c cars. Ryan
  12. Ok thank you, I didn’t look closely enough. Ryan
  13. Anyone have a picture of which way the connector plugs into the back of the circuit card? This is for 72 Mach 1 a standard non tach card. I seems the connector could plug in either way, I just want to make sure I don't get something reversed. Thanks, Ryan
  14. Looks like a nice car to start with. I’ll be looking forward to the progress. Ryan
  15. Don C, thank you for your patience in explaining the wiring grids. Wiring is not one of my strong points. On the red/yellow hash & black/orange hash wire, I can not find anything that it would connect to. This is an a/c car, is it something that was used or is it something that would have been for an option that my car doesn't have? Ryan
  16. Nice car! On the gas cap though, its not the wrong one. My red 73 Mach came with the same cap. Not all Mach 1's had the pop open.
  17. Couple more plugs and sockets to identify. The first pic is behind where the tach cluster goes, the second pic is above the glove box. Thanks Ryan
  18. Mike, I installed stock replacements on my red Mach years ago and they sat a little high st first. After I drove the car for awhile they settled. I put the same ones on my blue 72 Mach a they sit a little high also. I’m hoping they do the same. Now on the front i installed the Scott drake 1” lowering springs. I’ve seen where people are not happy with those. Ryan
  19. Correct, this is a 72. The only things I have on the board is the flasher, a circuit breaker (I think) and a clear small box marked D0AB-13150-B2. Would like to know which plugs go where and which ones are not used. Here's how I figure out what components are where and what plug is used.... Your D0AB-13150-B2 returns a Google search as a key warning buzzer. All of those components on that plate have part numbers stamped on them, and there are a couple screws that come up from the inside of the glove box so you can drop it down to make life easier. https://www.google.com/search?q=D0AB-13150-B2&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS819US820&oq=D0AB-13150-B2&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Page 2 of the 72 full wiring diagram has a component locator index, the key warning buzzer is in grid F53. The diagram is arranged with i.d. numbers across the top to designate vertical columns and letters on the side to designate horizontal rows. Scroll down to the page (4) where the 50s start. If you trace down from 53 and across from F, you'll find the area with the key warning buzzer depicted, along with it's wiring traces. C-89 designates the connector that plugs directly into the buzzer. Follow the leads back and you will see 158A/BK-PK (H) and 159A/R-PK 158A is the circuit designator and not something you'd use here. BK-PK(H) is the wire color ID. The layout is always (base wire color)-(stripe color)(stripe line type) BK is black wire. PK is pink and (H) designates a hashed stripe (dashes is you prefer). So, wire 158A is Black wire w/pink hashes. R-PK is red with a solid pink stripe. It looks like it's the connector hiding under the square red plug. Another stripe line type you'll see is (D) for dots. Do this for the rest of the bit on that plate and let's see what you have left Ok, this makes more sense to me now. I’ll go back and look what I have left. Thanks everyone for the help and pictures. Ryan.
  20. So most likely if I don't have a highly optioned car some of the plugs were not used? Ryan Correct, this is a 72. The only things I have on the board is the flasher, a circuit breaker (I think) and a clear small box marked D0AB-13150-B2. Would like to know which plugs go where and which ones are not used.
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