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Hemikiller last won the day on July 26

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About Hemikiller

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    Mustang Guru

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  • Vehicle(s)
    1971 Mustang Mach 1
    1965 Mustang coupe


  • Location
    Killingworth, CT
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  1. Use a press, or push the bolt out in a vice using a deep socket. You can also buy the striker bolt complete with the bushing installed. They're typically on the HELP rack at auto parts stores.
  2. I have a set of used original style two-piece rotors from a 70-73 that I can measure when I get home from work.
  3. Bumper filler should be sandwiched between the bracket and the fender.
  4. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/328437565229305/
  5. I use the short 73 on everything, since the long hose gets in the way of maintenance on that side.
  6. B is the Yellow main power lead that traces directly to the fuse block. That wire goes on the front stud of the solenoid, as well as A. FWIW, you have the incorrect alternator harness. That's the warning light harness. The gauge harness has a white/black stripe wire in between orange/lt blue and yellow/white. The red/green stripe should be at the bottom.
  7. You can bolt the 302 manifolds to the 351W heads. The 9.5 deck height of the 351W, vs the 8.2 of the 302 will move your pipes out 1" on each side, as well as up one inch. Check for clearance, especially on the driver's side by the steering box and around the clutch linkage. If you have room, you might be able to use the existing H-pipe by cutting the crossover and welding/clamping in a section of pipe.
  8. Tony, the '73 urethane bumper is about 90lbs. The 71-72 urethane unit is only a shade heavier than the chrome. Brackets and reinforcement panel are the same.
  9. To answer Spike directly, Clevelands are known to have thin cylinder walls due to core shift and .040" is typically accepted as the upper limit for any sort of performance build without block filler. I have no issues with sleeved engines as that would be the strongest cylinder of the bunch. If I were to use this block, I would have it magged and the crank magged and checked for straightness. If I were going to twist it above 7000rpm on a regular basis, then it would get block filler.
  10. Take a look down into the oil filler, or pull a valve cover. You should have screw in studs and guideplates. The guideplates should be visible. http://www.boss302.com/heads.htm One true way to knock it out of the park is to get the partial VIN stamping off the back side of the block, below the driver side head. 70 and early 71 model year blocks had it below the passenger side head. You can send that VIN to Kevin Marti and he can tell you if it's a B351 VIN or not.
  11. Awhile back, you gave me some info on the electrical system and recommended that I change the solenoid and then the ignition switch on my mustang because I was having problems with no electrical to start.  I did the easiest thing first and that was to change the solenoid.  I did that and that solved the problem, also a new battery.  Just wanted to thank you for you help and I appreciate it.

    Thanks again,

    Jimmy t.

  12. @Don C, not sure where you're coming up with those numbers. B351 intake is D1ZX-CA, heads are D1AE-GA, same as 71 M code, but with screw in studs & guideplates. Block is *usually* D0AE-L, same as late 70 351C, but with 4 bolt mains and has to be within certain casting dates. Block casting # is above starter, heads casting is on underside of intake ports, which requires the intake to be removed. B351 had unique connecting rods, crank, balancer, dipstick, domed pistons etc etc. A good place to familiarize yourself with the parts is : http://www.mustangtek.com/
  13. +2 https://summitracing.com/parts/cca-32-250-4/make/ford I'm going to say the XE284H isn't a bad cam, but by how you are describing your engine, it's way too much cam for your application. Something in the 215*/225* @.050" duration range with a low .500" lift would work much better. Keep the LSA at 114* +/- 2* and it should still pull hard down low with a nice top end charge. If your vavletrain hasn't been overhauled with one piece stainless valves and single groove keepers, now is the time.
  14. Yes, one is an overpriced re-labelled part from CJ that you may not receive until next summer, the other is what it should cost, sold under the actual manufacturer's brand. another supplier option for you. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1973,mustang,5.0l+302cid+v8,1132984,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+receiver+drier+/+accumulator,6972

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