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Hemikiller last won the day on April 19

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About Hemikiller

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    Mustang Guru

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    71 Mach 1
    65 coupe


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    Killingworth, CT
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  1. I was going to a cruise on Saturday nights that was a 45 minute drive each way, so the headlights saw a lot of use.
  2. @mycoses hasn't been on the site since May of 2020. You might have better luck PMing him or sending him an email.
  3. I had halogen sealed beams as well, and tried several switches, both original Ford and aftermarket by Standard. They all would eventually start tripping the circuit breaker. Doing my due diligence, I cleaned all the connections and grounds, and made sure everything was 100% - no difference. So, I punted and installed the relay kit with great results. My halogen sealed beams were definitely brighter without any tripping issues. After that, I switched to Cibie/Valeo glass housings with Hella H4 halogen bulbs. Total cost was about $150 and it was probably the best money I'd spent on the car in a
  4. Right now it's just a blunt end cut and "C" brackets that wrap around the rail just below the shock crossmember. I'll probably just do an angle cut at whatever makes sense and cap it with .125" steel. I have a couple other tweaks that I need to make before I'm ready to weld. Had a nice FB Marketplace buy this weekend, responded to an ad for a pair of toploaders and while I was there, also picked up a nice Weiand 351C tunnel ran for dual 4500 Dominators. I'll never use it, but it looks awesome on the shelf....
  5. I used this relay pack from Amazon on mine, saves a bunch of time on wiring and the quality is very good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085N87SR3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. All for the want of a $10 fire extinguisher. People, if you don't have one, get one!
  7. Last weekend I pulled the exhaust off. I had "borrowed" this exhaust from a friend in 2003 when I first got it running. Was supposed to be temporary, but life intervened. He had originally installed it on his 67 coupe in high school - back in 1985! Have a pair of the height of early 80's exhaust tech - Sonic Turbos .... I had the guys in the shop make the sheetmetal parts for me. I designed them in 3/16 steel - it might be a bit overkill. Bent up a set of tubes to test fit. Passenger side fit nice, driver's side not so much. I formed a new driver's side Friday after I
  8. Place your flexplate over the face of the converter and see if everything works. The flexplate is only about 090"~ .125" thick, so a bolt with 1/2" of thread is plenty. Use the straightedge against the flexplate and measure from edge to the engine block face, then edge to flexplate face where the converter pads sits. Subtract the two dimensions and compare it to your bell to converter pad dimension. If the converter depth dimension is greater by 3/16" or so, you're good to go.
  9. As Don C said,, throttle position solenoid or anti-diesel solenoid. It has no relation to air conditioning at all. The factory used it to prevent run on with the greater idle throttle openings required with the emissions systems of the time. The curb idle was set by adjusting the solenoid slider bracket with it energized. There was also a second, lower idle setting set by the idle screw on the carb, with the solenoid disconnected. When the key was turned off, the solenoid would retract, snapping the throttle closed to the lower idle setting. Hook it up according to the
  10. Attached the illustration and Auto Trans parts section of the MPC. You can look the fittings up by the basic unit number in the illustration. The parts listing is broken up by trans (C/M aka FMX, C4 & C6), just make sure you're in the right section. F is the model callout for Mustang. You can download the MPC in sections here: http://squarebirds.org/Manuals/1965/1965-72FordPartsTextCatalog/ 11-1965Text-AutoTrans.pdf
  11. The panel for crank and power windows are the same. The factory panel has a perforated pattern on the backside You can make a template off your existing panels to cut the hole.
  12. I have had excellent results with the simple white fiber gaskets that Hooker headers sold in the past. I used a bead of Ultra Copper around each port, let it set up for 15 mins or so, and then install. Retorque the bolts after the first heat cycle and I'd be good to go for years. The most recent set of Hookers I bought now come with a metal core grey fiber faced gasket that blew out on one port in a few minutes on the dyno. I may or may not try a them in the car with the UltraCopper bead when I drop in the 351C. As an aside, the exhaust on my 71 was installed in 2003 and I haven't touche
  13. Awesome! Nothing like the feeling of when you first see it all in one color.
  14. That's how Ford did it. They applied a two component tape stripe to cover the masking line. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/paint_info.htm
  15. Guess it's time I made an actual build thread for my car. It's since '06 when it was "completed" with a 302, 4 speed and 3.40 TracLoc 8". This is what I started with in 2001, 99% original, very straight, no accidents body. CT road salt had it's way with it over the years. Paid $700 and it ran and drove off a bottle. 302-2V, auto, 2.79 8" rear. PS, PDB, AM radio and that's about it. Car was sold new two towns west from where I live, and spent it's entire life two towns east. This is after all the sheetmetal replacement had been completed, engine compartment detailed, etc
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