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Hemikiller last won the day on October 7

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    71 Mach 1
    65 coupe
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    Killingworth, CT
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  1. Could be a lot of things. A mildly cammed 351C should be really snappy on the low end, regardless of what's attached to it. Start with the basics, especially your initial timing and the timing curve. The factory specs and timing curve are no good for a performance setup. You can safely run 10° ~ 16° initial as long as you don't have issues with the starter turning it over when it's hot. A 2V headed engine will want in the neighborhood of 36° total. With a 3.00 gear, I'd want that all in around 2500rpm. For vacuum advance, which will help with throttle response and efficiency, I prefer ported vacuum. It'll bring in extra timing right when you open the throttle, which helps get a car with highway gears off the line. You'll want to make sure you don't have an excessive amount of VA, it'll cause pinging on hills and such. Also, let us know more about your setu, it'll help with specific recommendations.
  2. Mounted my MSD to the front of the radiator support behind the passenger headlight, since it was a short jump to the starter solenoid and terminal block to pick up power and run the wiring up with the alternator harness. Tach signal wiring follows the accessory feed up the passenger tower brace and goes through the firewall where the AC cars have their vacuum lines.
  3. If this noise just started, then a best guess would be the rear portion of the baffle broke loose from a spotweld.
  4. Remember these were installed on a moving assembly line, so variations will exist. I'm sure that Ford intended the "T" to be centered on the lock opening.
  5. Common problem, you take the factory Ford valves and bin them immediately. The guy who bought my old 71 dropped a valve, but he over revved it by going into the wrong gear. The block survived because it had factory cast pistons, not forged TRWs. These were also NAPA replacement multi-groove valves made by TRW.
  6. According to Bob Mannel's book, the 68 302 had the Power By Ford covers with a side mounted plug wire bracket. https://fordsmallblock.com/
  7. Those sound like two completely different mufflers. Red car sounds like some sort of glass pack style muffler, green car is a Flowmaster chambered type.
  8. I buy the bulk of my parts off Rock Auto & Amazon. Local chain places (Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly) are a last resort due to exorbitant prices for the same parts. Summit Racing also sells replacement parts and AFIAK will ship to Canada. Rock has a variety of rotors in stock. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1971,mustang,5.8l+351cid+v8,1132692,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896 As does Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/brake-systems/section/disc-brakes/part-type/brake-rotors/year/1973/make/ford/model/mustang I used the ACDelco 18A1345 rotors on my 71 with Hawk pads and they've been great for nearly five years. I did replace the installed races with the ones in the USA made Timken bearings I used.
  9. I'd replace that yoke as well. FWIW, take a trip to Harbor Freight, or check various for sale listings and get your own shop press to do the bearings yourself. $60 is almost halfway to a new 12 ton unit, which is more than enough for home use. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
  10. Those are early 80's carbureted 5.0 HO valve covers from a Mustang or Capri. IIRC, they were 83-85, and discontinued for the shorter, smooth top cover when they switched to EFI.
  11. If you're building a stroker, it's foolish to consider using stock parts. An SFI rated balancer and flywheel are a must IMO. TMeyer carries the Romac balancers and Yella Terra flywheels, and will give you special prices on various parts when purchased with the rotating assembly. You can get a complete assembly, fully balanced and ready to install from him.
  12. Try using the Bookmarks tab on the LH side, this is the Forel '66 manual
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