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Hemikiller

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Hemikiller last won the day on January 10

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About Hemikiller

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    Mustang Guru

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  • My Car
    71 Mach 1
    65 coupe

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    Killingworth, CT
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. A solid rebuild on the stock disc/drum system will work extremely well. All new/rebuilt parts with a few key upgrades such as stainless braided flex hoses and semi-metallic friction materials does wonders.
  2. I bought the repop hood trim and had to cut it to clear the front lip on the hood. There are two different styles as you've found out. I acquired a nice straight original hood trim, that I plan to use in the future.
  3. Paid a visit to the machine shop today, my engine is alive and everything looks good. He ran in the cam and did some break in work to get the rings seated. Readjusted the valvetrain and started with some tuning. We did the first untuned short pull and it came up lean. He's going to jet up the carb and do another couple pulls to see where it likes the timing. We'll then swap to my carb and tune that in, test spacers and go from there. PXL_20210114_230901693.mp4
  4. Looks like NPD has their reproduction in stock now. https://www.npdlink.com/product/tube-pressure-line-to-pump/148862?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D3E576%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1971&year=1971
  5. Wimbledon White is an off white. Hard to tell from pics, but it looks about right to me.
  6. After fifty years, you need new foam. I didn't replace mine and regret it. For the backs, you can slip a garbage bag over the frame, the slip the cover over the bag and then rip the bag out. Makes it slide over the foam much easier.
  7. Dorman 23733 is the water pump stud kit. Most auto parts stores have them in stock. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733-Water-Pump/dp/B000CO779G 2947 was used in a lot of Ford trucks of various option loads, probably not necessary for a Mustang. I'm running a 2710 currently on my 71 and just bought a new one. I figure 15 years is a long enough service life and with the new engine going in, just replace it.
  8. I think it's colors like this that moved Ford to make the Exterior Decor Group an option, it needs some black to offset all that green. I'm interested to see where this one ends up. Kind of disappointed that a PO decided to "option up" a true 1 of 1 car that doesn't involve a tissue dispenser or floor mats.
  9. Anti rattle clip for the window guide rod. There are two per door.
  10. I bought mine from NPD back in '06. It's not perfect, but it still looks good. Sprayed it with a coat of sating black before installation. IMO, you could use hardboard from your local home improvement center and trace the pattern from your existing part. A couple light coats of interior color should do the trick.
  11. The 71-74 Q-code (351CJ) cam is a long duration cam with specs of approx 205/220 duration @ .050", .480/.490 lift. The specs are identical for all three, with the '72-up cams being ground 4° retarded. Using an adjustable timing set "makes" your 73 cam into a 71 timed cam. The 70-71 351-4V M-code cam is much smaller cam and to my knowledge, no one manufactures that specific grind anymore, in favor of the 351CJ or an aftermarket offering. Yes, you could swap cams, but you're doing a lot more work for no real gain if the intention is to keep the factory 351CJ cam profile. If you're l
  12. The 72-up cam is ground with 4° of retard built in, The simple and easy solution is to swap the timing chain set to an adjustable one with a +4°/0°/-4° keyway on the crank sprocket. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6621r-9/make/ford
  13. Disc Brakes would be an option under the "Your vehicle is equipped with" heading. No check box on the Power Disc Brake option, no PDB for you, no mention under the options. Drums were standard and no mention would be made. Marti's book shows Pewter w/Ginger standard interior at 189 sportsroofs so equipped. Not quite so heinous as the 1 of Grabber Yellow w/Vermillion M1 Sports Interior car.
  14. Had to drop an old set of headers off to the machine shop. The Hookers point inwards, and run into the stand for the dyno absorber. Gave him an ancient set that he can heat up and "adjust" to clear the stand. It should be mounted up on the dyno tomorrow and running by Saturday.
  15. Same here. They do work better when warmed up, but nothing most people would notice. I'll be doing new drums and semi metallic shoes in the rear this winter, but those are just generic Wagner semis.
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