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Hemikiller

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Hemikiller last won the day on July 19

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    71 Mach 1
    65 coupe

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    Killingworth, CT
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    Northeast

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Community Answers

  1. Not knowing how your stater is wired, I'd say the next time it happens, use a test light to ensure you have battery power at the starter, and power to the solenoid when turning the key to *start*. Something like this is usually a dirty/poor cable connection problem, missing grounds, etc. You could try wiggling the wires as well, see if it starts. Worst case, it's the starter.
  2. You may be experiencing fuel percolation in the bowls. Does it do this cold, as well as after it's warmed up? If it's only when it's warmed up, that would be where I'd start. It's pretty easy to diagnose, the boosters will tend to drip fuel with the engine off, and there is typically a bunch of vapor. If you don't have at least a 1/4" thick carb base gasket, get one. Seriously doubt the slipped timing chain theory, once they go, they're gone. Because it is so intermittent, I'm also leaning toward electrical issues, specifically bad grounds. I had similar issues many moons ago and it was an MIA chassis ground. Use a multimeter from the distributor body to the battery (-) terminal, it should read under 10 ohms. If not, verify your battery to fender apron to block ground path is clean and solid. Clean the ground wire in the distributor, clean and reseat the breaker plate screws. Clean the distributor base and clamp/hardware.
  3. If you have the "How to Rebuild Ford V8 engines" by Tom Monroe, that's really all you need. If you follow the step by step process, you really can't go wrong. I rebuilt my first engine in the parking lot of my college apartment with nothing more than basic hand tools and that book.
  4. I use the same bearing tightening procedure and finger-tighten the nut to the point it takes out any noticeable slack or movement in the rotor. Spin the rotor while torqueing, back off, then turn the nut in while rocking the top of the rotor in and out. Once there is no noticeable play, I'll put the cage and cotter in place. Never had any bearing failures with this procedure. FWIW, I always replace the races in rotor assemblies, do not trust them. Will only use USA or Japanese made bearings, whatever the brand.
  5. The correct bulb number is #94. Easiest place to find them is a marine store, they're used in stern lights. You can also use a #1076.
  6. I have a fair library of manuals and "how to" books. Some repops, some originals. The 71, 68 & 65 are reproductions, the rest are originals. The 71 & 68 I bought ages ago from Mustangs Unlimited. The 65 I bought last year from Rock Auto and it's a Detroit Iron publication. Quality is excellent and the paper is good, heavy stock. They have the 73 manual set for $60. The only caveat there is it's missing Volume 6, the one with the emissions and vacuum diagrams. RA also sells the Dave Graham reproductions, which I've heard terrible reviews on, as they supposedly have huge watermarks. I recently bought a Detroit Iron digital manual for the 73s and it's pretty darn good for $20. It's also missing volume 6, but does have the complete dealer service department wiring diagrams. FWIW, the Haynes V8 Mustang manual is worth the $20 as a good reference piece. Try to find a used one with the 72 Mach 1 cutaway on the cover, as it has the heavier paper stock, not the newsprint they use today.
  7. Those holes are for the 73 only rear bumper filler panel, and are in all the available 71-73 repop taillight panels. Why the stamping company put them in considering it's a 1 year thing, is beyond me. Probably comes down to they were given a D3ZZ part to work from and didn't know any better. Way easier to make holes as needed, than to weld them shut.
  8. Three plants built Mustangs - San Jose - R, Metuchen - T and Dearborn - F. San Jose stopped Mustang production prior to the 71 model year. Metuchen stopped Mustang production on Dec 23, 1970 (my Mach was built 12/22/70) and Dearborn was the sole Mustang plant from then until the end of 73 model year production. Dearborn did build Cougars concurrently with Mustangs, as noted with the 5xxxxx unit numbers. Lorain, Ohio - H, and Atlanta, GA - A, built the Torino & Montego in 71, so what one may think to be and "F" might actually be an "H".
  9. Motor came apart today. He found one bad rod bearing, said the crank measured out fine and will just get polished up. Out of an abundance of caution, he's disassembling the engine, performing a complete inspection and will clean out all the oil passages. He's a bit baffled by the bearing failure, but agrees it must have happened on the dyno. Told him that I had to adjust #3 intake, even though he had run through the valves several times, so a thorough inspection of the cam in lifters is also in order. If there is even the least bit of suspicion about them, they'll be replaced.
  10. Well, finished the installation of the engine and other parts, whacked together an exhaust from my belated 71 XR-7 and got the car running and driving. Had a noisy rocker which I adjusted, and then noticed an ominous noise coming from the engine. Sounded to me like at least a couple bad rod bearings. Oil pressure was tip top at 40 hot idle, 80 at 2K, so shut it off and called my machinist. Sent him a couple video snips and he agreed we had a problem. Pulled the motor back out in two hours and dropped it off at his place last Friday. We're going to crack it open tomorrow to see what's gone wrong. Reviewing the video of the engine on the dyno, I *think* I can hear a noise at certain RPMs and loads. It's hard to tell since it was run open header and you get a lot of resonance in the room. Either way, he's making it right. Hopefully it's a lot faster than it took to build the thing in the first place. On an up note, it did run well and sounded great if you ignored the noises. Also received my Strange 31 spline axles, 26" Champion radiator, shift light and tach. Once we see what's needed tomorrow, that'll decide what I'm doing next. Probably going to pull the entire rear end out to do the axle and pumpkin swap so I can weld on reinforcements to the factory spring perches. knock_startup.mp4 knocking.mp4
  11. The outer housings are welded together IIRC. I've never tried to take one apart, but my guess is the pads are vulcanized to the housing and the beam. There's a little slop in the mounting holes for height adjustment, I have seen shims behind the bumper itself to adjust the depth on the fender.
  12. That's what many call the "while I'm at it's" or project creep. We started with leaking air shocks and the correct solution is a new set of shocks and springs. Now we have introduced changing the rear sway bar into the picture. Project creep. I'm a firm believer in incremental suspension upgrades, to get it to where it was when new, and upgrade from there. Your existing baseline for this car is in the negative - a completely worn out system. New leaf springs, shackles and shocks will make a tremendous improvement in how the car rides and handles, couple that with poly bushings in the sway bar end links and frame brackets, and it's a whole 'nother car.
  13. I would put any bar upgrades on hold until *after* all of the other suspension is sorted. Simply adding polyurethane bushings and end links to factory bars makes a huge difference, not to mention when you replace all the other tired bushings and ball joints. The "stock" spring for a Q code car would be the Competition Suspension spring. They are 138 lb/in rate. I'd recommend replacing the u-bolts and nuts when you do the springs, Eaton sells those as well.
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