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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. Wagon will sell without issue if it's a solid car. The other one, just strip it for it's parts and put it out of it's misery....
  2. You'd have to buy a f-ton of tubing to get someone to make you a special size. I can't believe that tube bending equipment suppliers are not supporting metric sizes, it's not 1955 any more. You can order mandrels, dies and wipers in any size you need, as long as the equipment supports it and it'll form properly. If you're going to form these components, you're running the tubing through a mandrel bender, and there are far more tube forming equipment manufacturers in "metric" countries than there are in the US. The market will never support anything more costly than 4130 in any volu
  3. A solid rebuild on the stock disc/drum system will work extremely well. All new/rebuilt parts with a few key upgrades such as stainless braided flex hoses and semi-metallic friction materials does wonders.
  4. I bought the repop hood trim and had to cut it to clear the front lip on the hood. There are two different styles as you've found out. I acquired a nice straight original hood trim, that I plan to use in the future.
  5. Paid a visit to the machine shop today, my engine is alive and everything looks good. He ran in the cam and did some break in work to get the rings seated. Readjusted the valvetrain and started with some tuning. We did the first untuned short pull and it came up lean. He's going to jet up the carb and do another couple pulls to see where it likes the timing. We'll then swap to my carb and tune that in, test spacers and go from there. PXL_20210114_230901693.mp4
  6. Looks like NPD has their reproduction in stock now. https://www.npdlink.com/product/tube-pressure-line-to-pump/148862?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D3E576%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1971&year=1971
  7. Wimbledon White is an off white. Hard to tell from pics, but it looks about right to me.
  8. After fifty years, you need new foam. I didn't replace mine and regret it. For the backs, you can slip a garbage bag over the frame, the slip the cover over the bag and then rip the bag out. Makes it slide over the foam much easier.
  9. Dorman 23733 is the water pump stud kit. Most auto parts stores have them in stock. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733-Water-Pump/dp/B000CO779G 2947 was used in a lot of Ford trucks of various option loads, probably not necessary for a Mustang. I'm running a 2710 currently on my 71 and just bought a new one. I figure 15 years is a long enough service life and with the new engine going in, just replace it.
  10. I think it's colors like this that moved Ford to make the Exterior Decor Group an option, it needs some black to offset all that green. I'm interested to see where this one ends up. Kind of disappointed that a PO decided to "option up" a true 1 of 1 car that doesn't involve a tissue dispenser or floor mats.
  11. Anti rattle clip for the window guide rod. There are two per door.
  12. I bought mine from NPD back in '06. It's not perfect, but it still looks good. Sprayed it with a coat of sating black before installation. IMO, you could use hardboard from your local home improvement center and trace the pattern from your existing part. A couple light coats of interior color should do the trick.
  13. The 71-74 Q-code (351CJ) cam is a long duration cam with specs of approx 205/220 duration @ .050", .480/.490 lift. The specs are identical for all three, with the '72-up cams being ground 4° retarded. Using an adjustable timing set "makes" your 73 cam into a 71 timed cam. The 70-71 351-4V M-code cam is much smaller cam and to my knowledge, no one manufactures that specific grind anymore, in favor of the 351CJ or an aftermarket offering. Yes, you could swap cams, but you're doing a lot more work for no real gain if the intention is to keep the factory 351CJ cam profile. If you're l
  14. The 72-up cam is ground with 4° of retard built in, The simple and easy solution is to swap the timing chain set to an adjustable one with a +4°/0°/-4° keyway on the crank sprocket. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6621r-9/make/ford
  15. Disc Brakes would be an option under the "Your vehicle is equipped with" heading. No check box on the Power Disc Brake option, no PDB for you, no mention under the options. Drums were standard and no mention would be made. Marti's book shows Pewter w/Ginger standard interior at 189 sportsroofs so equipped. Not quite so heinous as the 1 of Grabber Yellow w/Vermillion M1 Sports Interior car.
  16. Had to drop an old set of headers off to the machine shop. The Hookers point inwards, and run into the stand for the dyno absorber. Gave him an ancient set that he can heat up and "adjust" to clear the stand. It should be mounted up on the dyno tomorrow and running by Saturday.
  17. Same here. They do work better when warmed up, but nothing most people would notice. I'll be doing new drums and semi metallic shoes in the rear this winter, but those are just generic Wagner semis.
  18. Wide ratio toploader 4 speed. Seriously doubt I will either. TrueTrac LSD has a great reputation. Have to order axles and eventually the driveshaft.
  19. Shiny new thing showed up from Quick Performance today....
  20. Someone simply looped the two ports together as they didn't have a correct vacuum cap. edit *** Don beat me to it... ;)
  21. Yes, that's the correct paint code. Paint chip sheets of the era called it "light silver poly"
  22. Why not try contacting ADDCO directly to see if they'll send you a new, correctly designed bar?
  23. To answer your question directly, the timing will advance whatever the vacuum advance will move at that inch of mercury reading. If it'll move 16° at 16" mercury, then that's what it'll move if your idle vacuum is 16". As Steve noted, you may run into the start of the centrifugal curve if the idle increases enough. I'm a big proponent of using the DVCV valve as Ford intended, ported vacuum at normal temps, and switching to manifold to increase airflow if the engine gets hot. You may find that you'll need to tune the vacuum advance to your specific combination once you start driving
  24. This is everything I've heard about them as well. Early heads had the valve seats falling out to boot. IMO, one needs to chuck all of the parts that come with them, or buy the bare heads and have them carefully inspected at a machine shop before investing anything.
  25. Yeah, I don't get it. eBay has photo editing tools in their listing tool. Dude needs a Twisted Tea....
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