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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. If this noise just started, then a best guess would be the rear portion of the baffle broke loose from a spotweld.
  2. Remember these were installed on a moving assembly line, so variations will exist. I'm sure that Ford intended the "T" to be centered on the lock opening.
  3. Common problem, you take the factory Ford valves and bin them immediately. The guy who bought my old 71 dropped a valve, but he over revved it by going into the wrong gear. The block survived because it had factory cast pistons, not forged TRWs. These were also NAPA replacement multi-groove valves made by TRW.
  4. According to Bob Mannel's book, the 68 302 had the Power By Ford covers with a side mounted plug wire bracket. https://fordsmallblock.com/
  5. Those sound like two completely different mufflers. Red car sounds like some sort of glass pack style muffler, green car is a Flowmaster chambered type.
  6. I buy the bulk of my parts off Rock Auto & Amazon. Local chain places (Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly) are a last resort due to exorbitant prices for the same parts. Summit Racing also sells replacement parts and AFIAK will ship to Canada. Rock has a variety of rotors in stock. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1971,mustang,5.8l+351cid+v8,1132692,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896 As does Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/brake-systems/section/disc-brakes/part-type/brake-rotors/year/1973/make/ford/model/mustang I used the ACDelco 18A1345 rotors on my 71 with Hawk pads and they've been great for nearly five years. I did replace the installed races with the ones in the USA made Timken bearings I used.
  7. I'd replace that yoke as well. FWIW, take a trip to Harbor Freight, or check various for sale listings and get your own shop press to do the bearings yourself. $60 is almost halfway to a new 12 ton unit, which is more than enough for home use. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
  8. Those are early 80's carbureted 5.0 HO valve covers from a Mustang or Capri. IIRC, they were 83-85, and discontinued for the shorter, smooth top cover when they switched to EFI.
  9. If you're building a stroker, it's foolish to consider using stock parts. An SFI rated balancer and flywheel are a must IMO. TMeyer carries the Romac balancers and Yella Terra flywheels, and will give you special prices on various parts when purchased with the rotating assembly. You can get a complete assembly, fully balanced and ready to install from him.
  10. Try using the Bookmarks tab on the LH side, this is the Forel '66 manual
  11. The Decor Group wasn't available on the Mach 1, only the convertible, sportsroof and the Boss 351.
  12. Center the console on the shifter and get it positioned so it sits level. Use a toothpick with a contrasting paint color and mark through the screw holes the locations on the carpet. Use a soldering iron or a nail heated with a torch and melt the holes through the carpet. Now you can either drill or punch the pre-holes for the screws.
  13. The 6915s will slide in up from underneath after the engine is in. You might be able to get the passenger side in from the top. Can't help with the AOD, I run toploaders.
  14. Nothing should be on the coil (+) post but the Red w/Light Green stripe wire. Take the choke wire off and see if you tach is more accurate. An electric choke should be hooked to the stator terminal of the alternator, or a relay triggered by the stator terminal.
  15. Take a look at the kits offered by Tim Meyer, which use Molnar rods and crank. https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/rotating-assembly-351c-stroker/
  16. The caps have to match the yokes. IIRC, the 1 1/8" caps go into the pinion yoke, the 1 1/16" are on the driveshaft itself. 71-73s don't use the inside snap ring, that's just for part commonality with other applications.
  17. ARP includes a packet of lube and instructions with torque specs in the package. https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/254-3704.pdf
  18. Nicely equipped car. Will make a great driver when you don't want to shift gears in the 429 car.
  19. Keep the tools with you and rent a U-Haul truck or trailer when the time comes.
  20. Supposedly, it will with a little work. Flexplate is the same too. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/71-73-aod-swap-how-to.584241/
  21. Wanted to post this, found that the engine crossmember is reproduced. https://www.carid.com/dynacorn/engine-crossmember-mpn-3601l.html
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