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Hemikiller

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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. I used this relay pack from Amazon on mine, saves a bunch of time on wiring and the quality is very good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085N87SR3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. All for the want of a $10 fire extinguisher. People, if you don't have one, get one!
  3. Last weekend I pulled the exhaust off. I had "borrowed" this exhaust from a friend in 2003 when I first got it running. Was supposed to be temporary, but life intervened. He had originally installed it on his 67 coupe in high school - back in 1985! Have a pair of the height of early 80's exhaust tech - Sonic Turbos .... I had the guys in the shop make the sheetmetal parts for me. I designed them in 3/16 steel - it might be a bit overkill. Bent up a set of tubes to test fit. Passenger side fit nice, driver's side not so much. I formed a new driver's side Friday after I
  4. Place your flexplate over the face of the converter and see if everything works. The flexplate is only about 090"~ .125" thick, so a bolt with 1/2" of thread is plenty. Use the straightedge against the flexplate and measure from edge to the engine block face, then edge to flexplate face where the converter pads sits. Subtract the two dimensions and compare it to your bell to converter pad dimension. If the converter depth dimension is greater by 3/16" or so, you're good to go.
  5. As Don C said,, throttle position solenoid or anti-diesel solenoid. It has no relation to air conditioning at all. The factory used it to prevent run on with the greater idle throttle openings required with the emissions systems of the time. The curb idle was set by adjusting the solenoid slider bracket with it energized. There was also a second, lower idle setting set by the idle screw on the carb, with the solenoid disconnected. When the key was turned off, the solenoid would retract, snapping the throttle closed to the lower idle setting. Hook it up according to the
  6. Attached the illustration and Auto Trans parts section of the MPC. You can look the fittings up by the basic unit number in the illustration. The parts listing is broken up by trans (C/M aka FMX, C4 & C6), just make sure you're in the right section. F is the model callout for Mustang. You can download the MPC in sections here: http://squarebirds.org/Manuals/1965/1965-72FordPartsTextCatalog/ 11-1965Text-AutoTrans.pdf
  7. The panel for crank and power windows are the same. The factory panel has a perforated pattern on the backside You can make a template off your existing panels to cut the hole.
  8. I have had excellent results with the simple white fiber gaskets that Hooker headers sold in the past. I used a bead of Ultra Copper around each port, let it set up for 15 mins or so, and then install. Retorque the bolts after the first heat cycle and I'd be good to go for years. The most recent set of Hookers I bought now come with a metal core grey fiber faced gasket that blew out on one port in a few minutes on the dyno. I may or may not try a them in the car with the UltraCopper bead when I drop in the 351C. As an aside, the exhaust on my 71 was installed in 2003 and I haven't touche
  9. Awesome! Nothing like the feeling of when you first see it all in one color.
  10. That's how Ford did it. They applied a two component tape stripe to cover the masking line. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/paint_info.htm
  11. Guess it's time I made an actual build thread for my car. It's since '06 when it was "completed" with a 302, 4 speed and 3.40 TracLoc 8". This is what I started with in 2001, 99% original, very straight, no accidents body. CT road salt had it's way with it over the years. Paid $700 and it ran and drove off a bottle. 302-2V, auto, 2.79 8" rear. PS, PDB, AM radio and that's about it. Car was sold new two towns west from where I live, and spent it's entire life two towns east. This is after all the sheetmetal replacement had been completed, engine compartment detailed, etc
  12. The end of the inner sleeve was swedged in place during assembly. You can use a grinder to take the lip off the front side and be able to reuse the sleeve and washers.
  13. #1 - agree with David. Shiny paint and bondo over some very poorly done repair work. It's hiding some expensive rust repairs. Stay away. #2 - they probably came up with "Grande" from the transplanted deluxe center stack in the base interior. This one might be decent since it hasn't been blinged up with a bunch of garbage - other than the horse stickers and the ick paint color. I see some rust on the taillight panel. It's an early 71 indicated by the bright trim on the rear edge of the hood and fenders. #3 - about the same as #2 No matter what, you have to inspect a convertible
  14. It's just embossed vinyl. From their website "Original woven vinyl Comfortweave has not been manufactured in a long time. TMI has faithfully reproduced the look and feel with a precision embossing die roller and extra thick expanded vinyl for a crisp Comfortweave texture."
  15. Those are aftermarket. Ford installed the stereo speakers in the front lower inside of the door and they had a rectangular plastic grille covering them. AM mono speaker was under the perforation pattern in the top of the dash.
  16. Nothing stock Ford. My guess is it's a bracket for whatever aftermarket equipment was installed in the car during it's lifetime. Jack mounting bracket is welded to the trunk floor on the passenger side.
  17. The seats are exactly the same regardless of fold down or fixed rear seat.
  18. Here's what came stock on the Mach 1 SportsRoof body style with unique "05" VIN code & "63R" body code on door tag Color-keyed urethane front "spoiler" bumper & front fender and hood trim Honeycomb grille in black w/sportlamps Argent or black "Mach 1 – MUSTANG" decals on fenders Argent or black stripe and "Mach 1" decal on the trunklid Argent or black lower body accent paint Bright trim at lower body paint line E70-14 white sidewall tires w/ hub caps & trim rings on 7" wide steel wheels Color-keyed dual racing mi
  19. You can safely bypass the entire system and feed directly from the PVS valve to the advance unit.
  20. The circuit breaker is only for the accessory feed wire, which is completely separate from the main harness and I don't see it in your pics. It is used to power the hood lamp, power windows, rear defrost etc., and has nothing to do with powering the main harness. It looks like you have a gauge package car and the junction block appears to be broken. The 73 wiring diagrams are a complex mess and can be very confusing. I recommend you clean the wires so the colors are visible, and get a replacement block so you can hook things up to the diagram. I've attached the 71 wiring diagram with gau
  21. The Pantera intake has a flat carburetor pad, the other has a pad milled to tilt the carb forward to compensate for the angle the engine is installed. There's a third model, that has a 4500 pad (Dominator). As DonC noted, this BT intake is a re-make of the Shelby 351C dual plane from the early 70s. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303731284941?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=303731284941&targetid=1068323853030&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003326&poi=&campaignid=11612431626&mkgroupid=113527555336&rlsatar
  22. Much of the required parts are available new. The Z-bar assembly, the clutch pedal, all the return springs and some other stuff. You can search on NPD's site using the basic part number shown in the pic. The problem with much of the used linkage out there is it needs to be welded and remachined due to excessive wear. The clutch fork is not made, nor is the overcenter spring bracket (7523). You can get a Scott Drake roller clutch bearing kit and weld it into your existing pedal hanger. Re-use your existing brake pedal, just cut the pad down to match the manual trans brake pedal pad width.
  23. Looks like 1F20087x ??? Maybe sand some more and try another pic
  24. Reach back there and get the color of the wire. The round single place connectors were usually used for the auto trans shifter light or an engine accessory. The NSS would be a 4 place square connector. AC clutch would be black w/yellow hash wire. shifter light is brown. If it was for the throttle position solenoid, then it should be red w/yellow hash
  25. I've done several auto to manual swaps in 71-73 cars. Quite doable and a very satisfying change in the car. The T-5 is a good match, as you can use the complete factory setup with an adapter plate. You will need to be careful which T5 you get, as there are a zillion different models with various torque capacities and input shaft lengths.
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