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Hemikiller

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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. Ford only built one 351-4V engine in 73, and while the "CJ" name was applied in different ways, they are all the same.
  2. I have one mounted on a rim, but it does have some very minor cracking.
  3. Be sure to contact Precision Exhaust about this problem. This is something they should address, whether they go to a slip fit crossover, or adjust their bending programs & welding jigs.
  4. That's some good information, wish Tremec would mention it on their website. The reason I mention the 10 spline issue is a friend has a 68 with a 408 Clevor engine and had issues with twisting his 10 spline toploader inputs. He ended up with a 26 spline input from David Kee (IIRC) and had his clutch disc reworked to match. It did take a few years before it happened, but he also twisted his 28 spline 9" axles.
  5. Backfire on quick throttle change is a lean condition. You need to increase the accelerator pump shot by moving the linkage. You may need to go to larger discharge nozzles to get more fuel into the intake quicker.
  6. Matte vinyl for certain. If they don't have it, you can buy partial rolls on Amazon etc.
  7. They probably quoted you that kit, since that's what most people would order. FWIW, the 26 spline is stronger than the 10 spline Ford type. If you're not racing all the time or using sticky tires, then you should be fine. Dimensions are under the specs tab on Modern's site. https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/transmissions/5-speed-transmissions/tkx/ford-tkx/tremec-ford-tkx500-3-27-1st-gear-with-68-od-10-spline-input/ The length minus the input is the same as the toploader at 24 1/4". The input is longer than a toploader, I did a quick measurement on one of mine and it came out to 6.5". That might be the reason for the QT bell quote, but it seems stupid for them to use a longer input. Wondering if it can be shortened to use the factory bell.
  8. Chuck, The rods had ARP2000 bolts installed and were resized by him. There is an off chance he put the cap on backwards, but who knows at this point. He does a fair amount of Windsor work, so not unfamiliar with Fords at all. Supposedly the crank should be back from the grinder's next week, they ended up grinding all the rod journals as there were some marks in the failed one they didn't like. We inspected the cam and lifters, and they're toast. Two lifters and their lobes are obviously bad, and all the rest are on their way out. I had a coworker who is a hell of a machinist and ran a comp car for many years look at them and he thinks they're import lifters even though the box said "Made in USA". His guess is they were not properly heat treated. Talked to the cam company (Cam Research) and he wants me to send them back for hardness testing. Seriously considering going with a roller setup to *hopefully* avoid this problem again.
  9. Then you'll need to increase the size of the discharge nozzle to deliver a faster pump shot. You can drill them if you have the appropriate size drill bits, or get the kit from Edelbrock. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1475
  10. This should help out.... MUSTANG DRIVE SHAFTS, U-JOINTS, SLIP YOKE.pdf
  11. PCV is adding extra air into the intake, you need to increase your pump shot more to cover for the leaner mixture.
  12. The way it changes with the #5 wire pulled makes me think you have a header gasket leak. What do you have for valvetrain? Is your vacuum reading steady? Here's an example of a rod bearing that's bad., you'll typically hear it under the car, not as much above. knocking.mp4
  13. 1 - yes 2 - no 3 - go for the new intake gasket. When you pull the intake, do so slowly and carefully. It might be obvious what's wrong if it stays intact.
  14. Most likely a rebuilder's tag, but yes, some pictures would help.
  15. Really hard to tell where it's coming from. Check that your distributor cap is fully seated and square on the distributor, as the rotor could be hitting the terminals - and that all the wires are fully engaged. If it's definitely from the front of the engine, I might lean towards something being up with the timing chain, maybe the cam bolt is backing out.
  16. Could be the resistor, the switch or the wiring. Use a multimeter set to Ohms and measure the resistance from any of the three resistor triple plug terminals to the single terminal for the blower motor. You should have one with near zero resistance (high speed), high resistance (low speed) and one in between (medium speed). If any of the terminals return an infinite resistance, then the assembly is bad. If the resistor tests good, then test the plug for voltage. At least one of the terminals will have 12v in any of the three switch positions. If you have no voltage at any terminal in the low and medium positions, then it's probably a switch issue. You can carefully disassemble the switch and inspect. Often the contacts get worn or burned. You can add solder to build them up to work like new.
  17. You cna just drag n drop the photo into your post. This board doesn't seem to support UBB code.
  18. I put KYB MonoMax shocks on my cousin's 1 ton workbody van that he uses for his contracting business. They seem do a good job of controlling that overloaded pig of a vehicle.
  19. I have the Bilstein 4600 series shocks on my '07 Silverado 2500HD. Probably one of the best things I've done to the truck since owning it. Factory shocks were garbage, one failed at 30k, and generally rode like crap. Put the Bilsteins on and all of the weird habits the truck had in bad weather were gone. If you plan on keeping it, they're well worth the investment.
  20. NPD has repop pedestals https://www.npdlink.com/product/pedestal-kit-rear-spoiler/217127?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dspoiler%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1973&year=1973
  21. Totally. I chock everything after going through the garage door of my old shop hanging out the window of a friend's son's Focus. Replaced the starter and leaned in to give it a test, but you had to disconnect the shift linkage to get the starter out. Car started in drive and moved forward. Tried to shut it off, but key was broken and fell out of the ignition and the ebrake didn't work. Went through the 12' wide door. $100 job cost me $800 in panels.
  22. Vermillion was the only "red" available in the 71-72 cars, no red for 73. As David noted, it was "E" code. There was a Dark Red available on other car lines, but it is significantly darker than the Vermillion and code "D". Pic below is a 70 Torino with Dark Red interior. I have seen the Vermillion parts darken over time, maybe post a pic of your interior?
  23. Later model year, missing the ID stamps on the tag. Requires some persuasion to access manufacturer's data tags.
  24. Parking brake warning light was part of the Convenience Group option, which requires a whole harness to install. You could get the repop of the later years truck brake lamp and wire it up yourself. https://www.macsautoparts.com/brake-light-warning-bezel-mounts-on-the-dash-ford-mercury-60-46278-1.html#tab-label-details_tab-title
  25. 99% chance it's a grounding issue. Clean the battery to apron to block ground connections and inspect the cable.
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