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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. Yeah, that's a mess. As Don noted, that's your voltage regulator and it's originally below under the starter solenoid. You also didn't tell us what it is, or isn't doing. IMO, you should spend some quality time cleaning up your wiring. Reproduction alternator harnesses are about $40. Re-crimp the wires with new terminal ends and adhesive heat shrink. If you don't dive in and make it right, you'll be chasing electrical problems forever.
  2. I'm running 255/60R15 on 15X8 w/4.25" backspace in the front. I get a slight rub in the frame rail by the steering box on hard left turns. Reminder not to use original alignment specs with radial tires. You want as much positive caster as can be dialed in. If the tire makes contact with the front valance, you can rock the upper arm back with shims under the front shaft bolt. This moves the upper ball joint rearward, giving you more positive caster without adjusting the strut rod. https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/
  3. Just going to throw this out there, lead times on everything right now are horrible. Everything is out of stock, and prices have increased. Be prepared to wait for months for that one item you need. +1 to what Chuck said regarding AutoTec. They'll make you anything you want and their lead time usually isn't terrible, but a phone call will answer that question. If you only need .010" to clean up, then order .010" pistons from them, price is around $550-ish. Considering that TRW 2379F are now about $450 at Summit, it's a no-brainer. Blue Thunder and Scott Cook intakes are top notch if you want an aftermarket dual plane. They run about $600.
  4. Sounds like you're making progress. FWIW, several of my 351C-4V engines required a #37 or #41 discharge nozzle. The stock Edelbrock comes with a #28.
  5. As Midlife noted, the tach is current triggered, and reads the pulses resulting from the coil charging and discharging. The power for the coil flows through the tach, it is in-line or in "series" with the coil (+) Igntion (+) -> tach -> resistor wire -> coil (+) FWIW, you don't need to bypass the resistor wire to run the Pertronix, nor spend $35 on their $2 relay. The 71-73s have a hot lead in Start and Run right at the engine - the anti dieseling solenoid wire feed. It's red w/yellow hash marks. You can power the Pertronix unit itself from there, and leave the coil (+) circuit alone.
  6. Having just done a 351C stock stroke build and had the flat tappet cam fail - here's my suggestions..... Buy a roller cam, or look for old stock lifters from a reputable company - TRW, Perfect Circle, Speed Pro etc. The new lifters I received from a *very* reputable cam grinder were garbage. Talk to a custom cam grinder that understands Clevelands, such as Lykins Motorsports or Bullet. Tell them your goals and setup, they'll hook you up right. I ran the classic Motorsport 214/224 - .510"/.536" hydraulic cam in a car with a 4 speed and 3.00 gear without issues. 4V Clevelands like a dual pattern cam with more exhaust duration. If I were going to use an off the shelf grind, it would be one of the Lunati Voodoo units. Use a flat top piston with the proper compression height - Keith Black hypers, Wiseco or RaceTec. This will save money on zero decking the engine. TRW forged have a lower compression height, are heavy and require extra machine work. With the closed chamber heads and proper quench height setup, premium fuel is not a problem. The stock multigroove valves, springs, keepers and retainers are junk, throw them in the trash. Replace with quality Ferrea or Manley single groove valves, with the balance of parts to match the cam. Don't bother with the studs and guidplates machine work. The Crane stud conversion or Scorpion adjustable will be just fine. Replace the rod *nuts* with ARP hardware. The stock rod bolts are plenty strong. A couple links to some good build info https://www.corral.net/threads/budget-351c-rebuild-and-dyno-test.2092114/ https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/engine-build-and-dyno-results Pics below are from one of the FB 351C groups, impressive numbers for a fairly stock build.
  7. Been a while, but I used to just unbolt the regulator from the door. Be sure to block or clamp the window up.
  8. Ford only built one 351-4V engine in 73, and while the "CJ" name was applied in different ways, they are all the same.
  9. I have one mounted on a rim, but it does have some very minor cracking.
  10. Be sure to contact Precision Exhaust about this problem. This is something they should address, whether they go to a slip fit crossover, or adjust their bending programs & welding jigs.
  11. That's some good information, wish Tremec would mention it on their website. The reason I mention the 10 spline issue is a friend has a 68 with a 408 Clevor engine and had issues with twisting his 10 spline toploader inputs. He ended up with a 26 spline input from David Kee (IIRC) and had his clutch disc reworked to match. It did take a few years before it happened, but he also twisted his 28 spline 9" axles.
  12. Backfire on quick throttle change is a lean condition. You need to increase the accelerator pump shot by moving the linkage. You may need to go to larger discharge nozzles to get more fuel into the intake quicker.
  13. Matte vinyl for certain. If they don't have it, you can buy partial rolls on Amazon etc.
  14. They probably quoted you that kit, since that's what most people would order. FWIW, the 26 spline is stronger than the 10 spline Ford type. If you're not racing all the time or using sticky tires, then you should be fine. Dimensions are under the specs tab on Modern's site. https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/transmissions/5-speed-transmissions/tkx/ford-tkx/tremec-ford-tkx500-3-27-1st-gear-with-68-od-10-spline-input/ The length minus the input is the same as the toploader at 24 1/4". The input is longer than a toploader, I did a quick measurement on one of mine and it came out to 6.5". That might be the reason for the QT bell quote, but it seems stupid for them to use a longer input. Wondering if it can be shortened to use the factory bell.
  15. Chuck, The rods had ARP2000 bolts installed and were resized by him. There is an off chance he put the cap on backwards, but who knows at this point. He does a fair amount of Windsor work, so not unfamiliar with Fords at all. Supposedly the crank should be back from the grinder's next week, they ended up grinding all the rod journals as there were some marks in the failed one they didn't like. We inspected the cam and lifters, and they're toast. Two lifters and their lobes are obviously bad, and all the rest are on their way out. I had a coworker who is a hell of a machinist and ran a comp car for many years look at them and he thinks they're import lifters even though the box said "Made in USA". His guess is they were not properly heat treated. Talked to the cam company (Cam Research) and he wants me to send them back for hardness testing. Seriously considering going with a roller setup to *hopefully* avoid this problem again.
  16. Then you'll need to increase the size of the discharge nozzle to deliver a faster pump shot. You can drill them if you have the appropriate size drill bits, or get the kit from Edelbrock. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1475
  17. This should help out.... MUSTANG DRIVE SHAFTS, U-JOINTS, SLIP YOKE.pdf
  18. PCV is adding extra air into the intake, you need to increase your pump shot more to cover for the leaner mixture.
  19. The way it changes with the #5 wire pulled makes me think you have a header gasket leak. What do you have for valvetrain? Is your vacuum reading steady? Here's an example of a rod bearing that's bad., you'll typically hear it under the car, not as much above. knocking.mp4
  20. 1 - yes 2 - no 3 - go for the new intake gasket. When you pull the intake, do so slowly and carefully. It might be obvious what's wrong if it stays intact.
  21. Most likely a rebuilder's tag, but yes, some pictures would help.
  22. Really hard to tell where it's coming from. Check that your distributor cap is fully seated and square on the distributor, as the rotor could be hitting the terminals - and that all the wires are fully engaged. If it's definitely from the front of the engine, I might lean towards something being up with the timing chain, maybe the cam bolt is backing out.
  23. Could be the resistor, the switch or the wiring. Use a multimeter set to Ohms and measure the resistance from any of the three resistor triple plug terminals to the single terminal for the blower motor. You should have one with near zero resistance (high speed), high resistance (low speed) and one in between (medium speed). If any of the terminals return an infinite resistance, then the assembly is bad. If the resistor tests good, then test the plug for voltage. At least one of the terminals will have 12v in any of the three switch positions. If you have no voltage at any terminal in the low and medium positions, then it's probably a switch issue. You can carefully disassemble the switch and inspect. Often the contacts get worn or burned. You can add solder to build them up to work like new.
  24. You cna just drag n drop the photo into your post. This board doesn't seem to support UBB code.
  25. I put KYB MonoMax shocks on my cousin's 1 ton workbody van that he uses for his contracting business. They seem do a good job of controlling that overloaded pig of a vehicle.
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