Jump to content


Tech Advisors
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Hemikiller

  1. On 9/18/2021 at 10:45 AM, RC92234 said:

    Stared into the darkness that is the passenger door trying to figure out how y'all remove the power window motor without the Ford recommended procedure of drilling new removal holes.  Every post I've seen that doesn't involve cutting access holes is along the lines of "easy-breezy:  remove door skin, add a little magic sauce, remove the motor".  Just trying to figure out the magic sauce.

    Been a while, but I used to just unbolt the regulator from the door. Be sure to block or clamp the window up. 

    • Like 1
  2. That's some good information, wish Tremec would mention it on their website.  The reason I mention the 10 spline issue is a friend has a 68 with a 408 Clevor engine and had issues with twisting his 10 spline toploader inputs. He ended up with a 26 spline input from David Kee (IIRC) and had his clutch disc reworked to match. It did take a few years before it happened, but he also twisted his 28 spline 9" axles. 

  3. They probably quoted you that kit, since that's what most people would order.  FWIW, the 26 spline is stronger than the 10 spline Ford type. If you're not racing all the time or using sticky tires, then you should be fine.

    Dimensions are under the specs tab on Modern's site. 


    The length minus the input is the same as the toploader at 24 1/4". The input is longer than a toploader, I did a quick measurement on one of mine and it came out to 6.5". That might be the reason for the QT bell quote, but it seems stupid for them to use a longer input. Wondering if it can be shortened to use the factory bell. 


  4. On 7/27/2021 at 8:56 AM, c9zx said:

    Rod or rod cap installed backwards? Did he check rod big ends for out of round? Hopefully he will get it sorted out quickly. Chuck


    The rods had ARP2000 bolts installed and were resized by him. There is an off chance he put the cap on backwards, but who knows at this point. He does a fair amount of Windsor work, so not unfamiliar with Fords at all. 

    Supposedly the crank should be back from the grinder's next week, they ended up grinding all the rod journals as there were some marks in the failed one they didn't like. 

    We inspected the cam and lifters, and they're toast. Two lifters and their lobes are obviously bad, and all the rest are on their way out. I had a coworker who is a hell of a machinist and ran a comp car for many years look at them and he thinks they're import lifters even though the box said "Made in USA". His guess is they were not properly heat treated. Talked to the cam company (Cam Research) and he wants me to send them back for hardness testing. Seriously considering going with a roller setup to *hopefully* avoid this problem again.



  5. 51 minutes ago, 73inNH said:

    I suspect you're right. Problem is, it's already on the top hole and I bent the rod to get a bigger shot. I'm pretty maxed out . . .

    I'll continue to check for other air leaks. Maybe I'm missing something.

    Then you'll need to increase the size of the discharge nozzle to deliver a faster pump shot. You can drill them if you have the appropriate size drill bits, or get the kit from Edelbrock. 


  6. Really hard to tell where it's coming from. Check that your distributor cap is fully seated and square on the distributor, as the rotor could be hitting the terminals - and that all the wires are fully engaged.  If it's definitely from the front of the engine, I might lean towards something being up with the timing chain, maybe the cam bolt is backing out. 

    • Like 1
  7. Could be the resistor, the switch or the wiring.  

    Use a multimeter set to Ohms and measure the resistance from any of the three resistor triple plug terminals to the single terminal for the blower motor. You should have one with near zero resistance (high speed), high resistance (low speed) and one in between (medium speed). If any of the terminals return an infinite resistance, then the assembly is bad. If the resistor tests good, then test the plug for voltage. At least one of the terminals will have 12v in any of the three switch positions. If you have no voltage at any terminal in the low and medium positions, then it's probably a switch issue. You can carefully disassemble the switch and inspect. Often the contacts get worn or burned. You can add solder to build them up to work like new. 

    • Like 1
  8. I have the Bilstein 4600 series shocks on my '07 Silverado 2500HD. Probably one of the best things I've done to the truck since owning it. Factory shocks were garbage, one failed at 30k, and generally rode like crap. Put the Bilsteins on and all of the weird habits the truck had in bad weather were gone. If you plan on keeping it, they're well worth the investment. 

  9. 2 hours ago, mjseakan said:

    Hoo boy.

    At least he didn't hit the house or get T-boned. That's a why you chock your wheels. I wonder what fell off of the bottom?

    I'll bet the neighbor was pissed about the lawn.

    Totally. I chock everything after going through the garage door of my old shop hanging out the window of a friend's son's Focus. Replaced the starter and leaned in to give it a test, but you had to disconnect the shift linkage to get the starter out. Car started in drive and moved forward. Tried to shut it off, but key was broken and fell out of the ignition and the ebrake didn't work. Went through the 12' wide door. $100 job cost me $800 in panels.    :classic_angry:

    • Sad 1
  • Create New...