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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. I remember drawing up something very similar similar sitting in the back of Mrs Whatwazhername's algebra class circa 1986. I thought it looked wrong then too..... FWIW, if he had enlisted a pro familiar with custom paint schemes, the car would look much better. You should never use body or panel lines as a division between color blocks, it just looks amateur. The blue shows off too much of the waviness of the side and rear skirts, something darker would have hidden it better. I think it would look wicked in all black....
  2. Up to 16 now! Today is the last day, anyone else interested has until midnight tonight to get me your info.
  3. Yep, I've got some good ones of the rebuild...
  4. I have run the Koni's and still have my set. One of my fronts has an air bubble that I cannot bleed out. I have to send them in one of these days. They are a great shock, just that the 71-73 fronts are no longer made.
  5. That's why you run all the wires under the battery tray next to the main harness. Agree on the other two points though... http://www.7173mustangs.com/xthreads_attach.php/116_1291609227_460f917f/72e5c3248355ddbd40a24e3250f6448f/DSCF1437.JPG
  6. I bought one NOS one off eBay and the other came from the HELP! section of Napa...
  7. C'mon guys, still at 14! Three days to go 'til I close it for entries and send out the names....
  8. I have a set in my 71. I find the ride is just fine, others have said the rear is too stiff. I'm still running the original leafs from 1971. If you find the rear too stiff or harsh, swap them for a pair of GR-2s.
  9. 1 - The "best" would be a set of NOS Ford tips - but very pricey. I haven't used the repops, they don't fit the 2 1/2" exhaust I run. Id the tabs are a problem, cut the tack weld with a cutoff wheel and spin the clamp to where it fits best. 2 - Your tie down brackets look bent to me. All 4V Mustangs were dual exhaust, no exceptions. 3 - They were supposed to be removed by the dealer, most weren't. If they are a problem, remove them.
  10. Girlfriend + vintage car = trouble BTDT Besides that, it looks pretty decent, but the pics are small with no detail. From the description, if you get it for $5k, you should be doing okay. Keep in mind that coupes and Grandes of the 71-3 vintage do not a good investment make, unless they are loaded with the best performance drivetrain of the year. One things for sure - make sure she likes green......
  11. The beauty of the Duraspark is that it's dead-stone simple, reliable and accurate. You can have replacement parts for it from any auto parts store within a day, if not in stock. The MSD 6AL box is just as reliable and any time I've had one go bad (twice in 21 years, both because of alternator over-voltage issues) it costs about $40 to get it fixed. You can tweak the advance curve in about 10 minutes with a 925D kit from Mr Gasket. http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/925D/10002/-1 http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html The Mallory Unilite is notorious for smoking the Unilite modules, which IIRC is about $100 to replace. Pertronix is mainstream and an accepted product, but I still won't run them since the D-spark/MSD combo just works so well without issue, and they have a reputation for being "unreliable". Ask just about any Pertronix owner what they have in the trunk - 99% will answer "a set of points, just in case".
  12. If you're going to spend $300, get a reman Duraspark from your local parts store and an MSD ignition box. The hardest part of the install is deciding where to put the box. Good 'ol reliable MSD 6AL http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/6420/10002/-1 Newest version 6AL2 - comes with free Blaster2 coil http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/6421/10002/-1
  13. Eddie, glad to have you over here!
  14. Lots of pics here: http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/interiors.htm
  15. According to Dan Jones, the Weiand tunnel ram was the only 2x4 intake made... http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/DanJones351CIntakes.html
  16. Ah, missed that part. Where on the fender? If the caster is off and the wheel is pulled too far forward, it'll rub the fender and valance at the front. Been there, had to fix the paint..... Could you explain in more detail, not sure what you are talking about but sounds like a possibility Yeah, I'm not following that either. The eccentrics are on the lower arm. If they were loose, he'd know it......
  17. I'll agree with droptop73. I'd be more inclined to think that his backspacing is a little off and causes the tire to rub the framerail. I've run 255/60/15 on the front with only minor rubbing issues at full lock, and on the driver's side at the steering box bolts. If it happens again, I'd just put a pair of hose clamps on the strut rod steering stops to limit the angle of the wheel.
  18. Dual quad tunnel ram, yup, have an Offenhauser on my parts shelf. Have a pair of 660 center squirters to go with it.... FYI, i'll get to that taillight harness tonight, have some free time for the garage.
  19. ...lifted the cover, opened the drivers door, looks ok, closed door, put cover back down....
  20. Those will all have the 7 3/4" Hotchkiss type (integral carrier) rear axle, except, IIRC the 69-70 Mustang with 250-6. I believe it had the 4-lug 8" rear.
  21. As of 5:45pm EST, we're up to 11 participants, get your info in guys!!
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