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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. 99% chance it's a grounding issue. Clean the battery to apron to block ground connections and inspect the cable.
  2. Nothing that Ford ever did, maybe as Kilgon noted, or as a support for a broken box?
  3. My cousin and a couple friends are either contractors, or are in the skilled trades - electrical, plumbing etc. All have said that demand has been nuts since C-19 hit and they've been booked out for months since last year. Price of gas has little to do with the guy in the Oval office, it's driven by speculation in the market / confidence levels which are affected by world events, as well as seasonal changes in demand. Gas is high now because demand is high from summer travel and the re-opening economy, and historically will start to drop soon. Wholesale prices as of May 21 were $.07 higher than 2019 levels for CT, and very close to 2015. Feel free to look up the historical wholesale prices from your state. https://www.eia.gov/dnav/pet/hist/LeafHandler.ashx?n=PET&s=EMA_EPM0_PWG_SCT_DPG&f=M Price increases are everywhere. My wife works in lighting, she gets price increase notices on a daily basis and they have added disclaimer notices to all their quotes. Some manufacturers have taken 5~6 increases so far *this year*, which is unheard of. Many companies have held the line to keep from pushing it to the consumers, but they're dropping like flies now. Our material prices have gone up as well, the cost for 16ga CRS sheet is 330% of what it was in Aug 2020. I had tremendous trouble getting sheet materials at the beginning of the year, which caused us to put 4 months of the highest moving sheet goods on the floor, when I normally keep two weeks at best. I can tell you for a fact that Summit is selling at or very close to MSRP on many items *because they can*. Look to others to follow suit when they figure it out. The demand is real, we've had a fantastic year and cannot keep anything in stock.
  4. Weld up the grooves and grind them flat, easy repair and no need to replace.
  5. Ford used two different size driveshafts on the 4 speed cars, depending upon rear gears. 3.25 cars were supposed to get the 1310 joint and 3.50 cars the 1330, but there have been variances in what actually went out the door. The NPD listing leaves out the 3.25/3.50 gear differences on the 351 applications. You car *should* take the -6 & -7 joint. The only error I see in the NPD chart is the -7 u-joint should have a 1 1/16" and a 1 1/8" cap diameter. Lots of things get swapped over the years so best to pull the shaft and measure. E & F are the 3.25 joints, G & H are 3.50
  6. There's a bunch of great interior reference pics on the 429 Megasite. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/interiors.htm Those items were all black for standard interiors, or color keyed for the "deluxe" level interiors. See the link above for examples.
  7. Mine leaves the bathroom fan running all day, every day.
  8. Click on the "other media" button and use "insert image from URL"
  9. I'd cut that new Hurst to pieces before ever thinking about touching the 70 stick.
  10. The rear rail section and torque box assemblies are available in reproduction. I didn't see them on Don's site, but NPD has them. https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=torque%2Bbox&top_parent=200001&year=1973 Front 71-73 torque boxes are not available, so you need to fabricate and repair what you have., or get rust free parts from a donor car.
  11. That's what I thought when I saw the gasket. OP, be sure to get a gasket that seals well, as some of the generic Holley types won't seal the perimeter of the base plate casting. The 4300 has vacuum passages cast into the base plate, which will cause a high idle situation if they are drawing outside air. You'll also want to check the base plate with a straightedge to ensure it is flat and not bent/warped from over tightening.
  12. Using the original diagram along with the pin out diagram will get you where you need to be. Connector C901 - the pinout diagram, is the switch itself.
  13. Here's the pin out diagram from the diagrams. https://7173mustangs.com/wiki/
  14. Missed that, and yeah, about a month before they hit stock. You can look at Canton 15-710 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-710 If your stock pan is the CJ/Boss type with the scraper and slosh baffle, then I'd have no issue using it and filling to 6 quarts. Boss 351 dipsticks were calibrated for a 6qt fill with no other changes.
  15. Sounds like you have a Fox chassis pan. You'll need to change the pan and the oil pump pickup. My recommendation is the Moroso 20558 and matching 24558 pickup. Made in CT across the Sound from you. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20558 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-24558
  16. Daniel Carpenter reproduces the grilles. I bought my 71 grill from Don @OMS and it was every bit as good as my original, but wasn't dried out 35 year old plastic (at the time). I recommend you get the grille with the stainless trim already installed. https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/item_listing.asp
  17. Looks like a good score, haven't seen a 71-73 in a yard around here in years. What's the tag # on the box? The pressure and return hoses are available from Rock Auto. They are not an exact reproduction, none of the available ones are. Steering coupler is Lares 201, also from Rock. Hoping you're planning on rebuilding the pump and box before installation. Looks like that came off a car with a PS cooler and AC. You'll also need the spacer to go between the pump and head if your car doesn't have AC. Did you get the support bracket and steel tube for the pressure hose? First impression is the pump bracket is wrong, but it may be the angle - what's the part # stamped into it?
  18. Unless the Mexican cars are wired differently, the reverse light circuit is only key-on hot. The PO may have hotwired the lights to a constant hot? The connector *should* be hanging at the center of the firewall. behind the engine.
  19. The Ford manual shows a special plier-type tool to install the bushings. I use a socket and bench vise, but that's not practical for on the car use. A small C-clamp with the socket should do the trick for the shifter. You can do the shift arms on the bench. The shift shafts have an o-ring to seal them against the case. Only way to change them is to disassemble the transmission.
  20. I can make these easily, but need s sample to work from. I had a set, but have been unable to locate them in my searches over the last couple months. Whoever sends me one to work from, I'll make you a new set and return the sample.
  21. The factory shop manual has a complete R&R procedure on the column, and how to disassemble the column itself.
  22. The calipers are on the correct side when the bleeder points to the *rear* of the car. If it points straight up, you'll never get the air out and have to switch sides. Here's a graphic I made to help people visualize the issue. IMO, yours appear to be correct. The same filler is used regardless of console type. The 429 Megasite has a drawing to make your own, about 3/4 down the page. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/components_2.htm
  23. I saw that pop up on FB and knew it wouldn't last tong.
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