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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. You need to remove the lower column trim and the bracket holding the column to the brake pedal support bracket. It'll only drop down a couple inches, but that's enough to replace the switch and perform the adjustment before buttoning it back up.
  2. Silicone acts as a lubricant allowing the seal to slide across the painted surfaces. Helps more with door seals and such, but I apply it to the trunk seal as well.
  3. The "sensor" for the base gauge package with the warning light is simply a switch. When the engine gets to "X" temperature, the switch provides a path to ground, illuminating the light. If you pull the connector off and the light goes out, you have either a bad or incorrect sensor. When you ground the connector to the intake, it should come back on. TU25 is a Wells number, and is for cars with gauges, not the warning light. Autozone doesn't show a sender for the light. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?q=Nty%3D1%26N%3D2500015%2B2601504%2B2802227%2B10197100%2B5002600%2B200260260%26Score%3D1&referer=plp&partTypeName=Temperature Sender Switch&keywordInput=temperature sender&scene=partTypesScene1&fullyQualified=true&isBackButtonEnabled=true https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1971,mustang,5.0l+302cid+v8,1132670,cooling+system,temperature+sender+/+sensor,4748
  4. I recently replaced the one I installed in 2006. Didn't add any holes, but did leave about an 1/8" gap at the butt ends by the latch to allow air to escape. If you butt those ends, the seal becomes a balloon. I installed the seal and left the trunk closed for a couple weeks. It's still a bit tough to close, but with the right effort it's not a problem. One thing many miss is to lubricate the seals with silicone.
  5. What were the alignment specs? Factory specs are NG for modern radial tires, you end up with light, low effort steering and that wandering feeling. 3~4 degrees of *positive* caster should get you a much better feel.
  6. Yesterday was transmission reassembly day. I had previously cleaned, degreased and de-rusted all of the components and they were waiting for me to get to work. This toploader came out of my belated 71 M-code XR-7 and apparently, it had a very hard life. The synchro hubs were completely shot, the splines were terribly worn, and fit loose on the mainshaft. All the gears were it top shape and the only other damage was some minor burring on the dog teeth, which I cleaned up. Ordered new hubs from Allstate Gear, rebuild kit is the high load road race bearing version from Dan Williams. Trans itself is complete, just need to reassemble and install the shifter, and button up the top cover. Oh, also need to find the bolt for the detent on the side of the case. Just a note for anyone doing this job, the outside snap ring that comes on the input shaft bearing does not allow the retainer to sit flush against the case, DW supplies the correct one separate in his kit.
  7. That was a half inch away from a damage claim $hitshow.
  8. D0AE-L was used in the Boss 351 w/ 4bolt mains as well as garden variety 2V and 4V engines. As Geoff, noted, it's very unlikely to be more than a 2 bolt. No way to tell without pulling the pan or using a borescope through the drain plug. The partial VIN stamp is on the block below the rear of the cylinder head. With that casting date, it should have it on the driver's side. I have a couple earlier blocks stamped on the passenger side.
  9. I think I did open it up a bit, but it's easy enough to push back in place.
  10. The 680 SA will be fine with that engine. Assuming it was dynoed with the stock iron intake, the BT will definitely add some power. I personally would just move my front dress to the new engine. T5s have a bunch of different ratios, so you'll need to know that to determine which way to go. As far as changing the rear ratio, I'd get it in and see how the engine does in OD at typical highway speeds. No advantage to machining the heads at this point, not on such a mild cam. You can get a set of Scorpion 3224 Endurance rockers which are adjustable if needed. Otherwise, there are many pedestal style rockers available.
  11. That sheet is from the 73 manual, so it's most likely an early version. I've removed door glass from 73 cars without removing the brackets or stops. Takes some finesse, but it can be done.
  12. The only cars that were standard with the side stripe are the Boss 351 and the 71 Spring Special coupes, and they used this stripe. 71-72 Mach 1s came with the lower body bright molding as standard (as well as the 72-73 Exterior Decor Group cars). The molding would be deleted if the side stripes were ordered, and the special two-component stripe would be used to cover the masking line. If you see a car with moldings and side stripes, you can be fairly certain it didn't have the stripes from the factory.
  13. The factory Ford tach is a current driven unit and is in series configuration, power for the coil runs through it. If it's not powering the coil, it needs an adapter. Most aftermarket tachs are voltage triggered and draw a signal from the negative side of the coil. The adapter uses the tach signal from the ignition box to simulate the (+) power pulses of the coil.
  14. Spent the weekend working in the garage. Lost way too much time finding things that I had put in "safe" places to not lose them. Did manage to get the 351C on the stand and do some parts fit-up to minimize any futzing about when it's sitting in the engine bay. Finished cleaning the majority of the engine bay, seems no matter how much I clean, there's still dirty areas. Going to leave it as is for now, will really detail it over the winter. Focus right now it to get the engine in and running. Touched up some little rust spots and fixed all the wiring to about where it'll end up. Can't find the correct Autolite regulator cover I had, so stuck a Motorcraft on there for now. Next step is to finish the reassembly of the toploader and the shifter, then it'll be time to do some subassemblies and drop it in.
  15. Never had an issue with any hoses I installed regardless of brand. Recycled from parts cars - yes. I'd just get the hoses from whatever works for you. For clams, I bought a couple boxes of the Gates clamps for silicone hoses, which keep the rubber from extruding through the slots.
  16. Never had a problem, just check a few seconds ago on some parts and a return.
  17. If these are the brackets you're talking about, shoot me the dimensions and I'll have some made here. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/12517-Hanging-Tabs-Muffler-OEM-PAIR-Repro-1967-1973-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1973-Ford-Mustang.html
  18. Hagerty insured my Mach while under restoration for $10K, this was nearly twenty years ago. As I finished stages, I'd call and up the coverage. Current agreed value coverage is $30k and I pay under $300/yr.
  19. None of those front suspension parts bolt on. You can do a rear disc swap from the late model Crown Vic that's a fairly bolt on deal. Front discs are easy, several companies make drum to disc swap kits, or source a factory setup. Wilwood, Leed Brakes or go with a Mustang Steve caliper bracket. Keep in mind that many of these will not fit a stock 14" wheel, some require 17" or 18". https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitSearch?year=1971&make=Ford&model=Mustang&option=Drum+Brake+Front+Spindle&axle=Front+Kit https://leedbrakes.com/c-1064538-front-disc-brake-conversion-kits.html
  20. Water comes out of the block on a Cleveland ( manifold on a Windsor ) and returns into the water pump. The valve should be in the hose on the "out" side and that's really the only rule.
  21. Put a hose clamp on the steering stop on the strut rod. That'll stop it from traveling too far and hitting the frame rail for inspection. You could put it on the spindle if that's less conspicuous.
  22. CHI heads need less total timing than iron heads due to the chamber shape. I'd stay conservative at 30° total and see what the engine likes.
  23. I'll speculate 350hp at the wheels, high 3xx torque. Guessing that cam will peak around 6000.
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