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Hemikiller

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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. You can look at the quarter window connectors, they use the same switch part# and will be wired the same, but I believe you are correct. Yellow with Black stripe functions a directional ground wire from the individual switches and as a direction power feed from the master switch. The system changes polarity to the motors through the switches. In one direction, the Y/BK is the ground, the other uses the R/BK, power is fed through the safety switch to the R/LB wire to all remotes. From the master, the Y/BK will be power and R/BK ground, and then the reverse to change direction. I'm guessing your PS window only worked in one direction from the master control switch, but was fine using the switch on the door?
  2. If RD-72 is willing, send it to me and I'll scan it to a PDF document and upload to the Wiki, then send it on to him.
  3. Here's the parts list and links. The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710, or you can use a 2711 for 3/8" more clearance to the radiator. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118 or 17" 17117 - measure to see which one fits best, factory fans were either 17 1/2" or 18 1/2" depending upon engine and options. I recommend a stud kit to attach the clutch to the water pump, as using bolts in this application is a serious lesson in frustration. Bolts to attach the fan to the clutch are 5/16-18 x 5/8" w/lock washer. Hayden 2710 clutch: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793512&jsn=2293 Hayden 2711 clutch: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-2711-Premium-Clutch/dp/B000C39BYQ Derale 17" fan: https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17117-Clutch-Standard-Rotation/dp/B0006HNLSA Derale 18" fan: https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clutch-Standard-Rotation/dp/B004XONYK2 Dorman HELP! stud kit: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733-Water-Pump/dp/B000CO779G
  4. No idea if that's possible. If the mounts start rusting from the inside, it may be pushing the beam out. You could try it in a shop press. Side to side is the slotted holes in the mounting plate. Vertical adjustment should be the front mounting bolt hole is slotted. Fore and aft I believe is accomplished only with shims at the mounting plate, and whatever slop is in the bolt holes. How far back do you need to move the bumper? Found this pic on Stangnet with no bumper attached.
  5. Welcome to the forum! There is a minor amount of adjustment on the impact beams to the frame, but nothing of any significance other than for adjusting the bumper to fender gap. I've also seen shims between the beam and bumper itself.
  6. Like others noted, the lower color is paint, and was the first process done in the paint shop. The argent/black was then masked off and the body color was applied. The two component stripe is available as a reproduction, it covers the paint masking line. https://www.npdlink.com/product/stripe-set-lower-body-argent-dual-stripe/143566?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dstripe%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1972&year=1972
  7. If the car has disc brakes, the calipers have a sheetmetal stabilizer bracket (2B295) on the back side, which will rattle like crazy if someone leaves the bolts (381985-S) that attach it to the caliper bracket (2B292) off. It could also be missing some of the other clips or the rubber bushings.
  8. Yes, same here. I'd done it on cars that had prop rods, so you could rock the hood back vertically. I was so conditioned to remove the hood as Step #1 on anything with conventional sprung hinges that it never even occurred to me to try. I followed the procedure in the 71 shop manual as an exercise, and it worked perfectly. I had removed the bellhousing, flywheel, clutch and all that as a precaution, but it's not really necessary. Anyway, proof is in the pudding, I shot a timelapse video just for those that tried to call BS on me.
  9. Best method is to use a shop press to remove and install the bearing and locking collar. I have a bearing splitter that I use to remove the bearings in my press. This video shows the correct method to install them. You can also cut the locking collar and bearings apart and split them with a cold chisel. I've also seen the bearings driven on with a big hammer and piece of tube.
  10. Wow, been a while since I updated this... Let's see - after screwing around with the welder to get it working right, the subframe connectors are in and welded. Pulled the trans, clutch and flywheel a couple weeks ago. Cleaned up the underside of the car and acid etched it for another coat of paint. Spent a bunch of time getting parts in line for the engine swap and had a free weekend to get the engine out, so I got to it yesterday. I do have to give a shoutout to Uncle Tony's Garage on Youtube, he saved me a ton of time and effort when pulling this engine - by leaving the hood on. I don't know why it never occurred to me at any time in the last 30 years, maybe because every aftermarket repair manual or "How to Rebuild X engine" book I've read says to remove the hood. However, while watching THIS VIDEO he mentions that every car is designed to have it's engine removed with the hood in place. I initially was like "WTH did he just say?" and after rewinding a couple times, I hit my manuals. Looked through at least six factory Ford shop manuals of various years and not in any of them did it say "remove hood" in the engine removal procedures. After pondering for a minute, it occurred to me this was the smartest thing the engineers could have done, since hood removal always involved a bunch of gymnastics to get it realigned and had a huge potential for paint damage. So, I decided that I was going give it a shot. I had about two inches to spare, but it came out with the hood in place. Obviously, this isn't going to work in some situations, but I'm pretty confident the 351C will go in the same way.
  11. Yes, J-code.. Hadn't had enough coffee... ;) You had mentioned rebuilding the original 2 barrel, which would be an Autolite 2100. The Autolite 4100 is a very good carb and also easy to rebuild, so is a nice option if you can get a good core.
  12. For a company that make's it's living off of selling records, that's some seriously shoddy recordkeeping.
  13. The only "non-Boss" 302 engine equipped with a 4 barrel was the one year only G-code in 1968, which used an Autolite 4300. As a rule, I don't recommend anyone use a 4300 for anything other than originality purposes. The Autolite 2100 is an excellent carb and incredibly simple to rebuild. For an aftermarket carb on a stock 302, I'd recommend a Summit 500cfm unit. You could also use Edelbrock or Holley in the 500-600 cfm range. You will have to modify fuel lines, choke setup and add a couple accessory brackets to make it all work. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08500vs
  14. You'll need the D1ZZ-8182-B grill support shown in the image below. I assume by your 12/70 build date that you have the dual vertical support, as opposed to the later single unit. These are tough to find and not reproduced, might try Ohio Mustang or Motorcity Mustang.
  15. The gasket has to match the oil pan rail. The early style pans have a dimpled rail that takes the OS13260T gasket. The 86-up rear sump pan for the Fox chassis cars (T-bird, Mustang etc) has a flat pan rail with stamped reinforcements that uses the OS34508R gasket, which is FelPro's version of the factory Ford one piece gasket. If you mix the wrong gasket on the wrong pan, it will leak. FWIW, don't fall into the "HV pump is better" trap. If the engine has good oil pressure now, it'll have good oil pressure with a new standard volume pump. Get a standard Melling pump, whatever front sump pan and pickup you prefer, and an ARP oil pump driveshaft.
  16. Complete engine vacuum diagrams are at the bottom of this page: https://www.mustangbarn.com/technical-information The 73 has a dual area modulator, that raises the shift points when the EGR system is active, which is why there are two lines shown in Vicus' photo above. Full manifold vacuum should be applied to the center or rearwardmost vacuum port on the modulator. IMO, if it shifts fine cold, but has issues hot, that points to failing internal seals and a rebuild is in your future.
  17. Never had a booster issue with any of the 71-73s I've had, including three 71s. Since I wasn't the original owner, can't guarantee that they weren't replaced over the years.
  18. If the ends of the old roll pin are stuck in the gear, you're all set. Replace the pin and carry on. I'd consider switching to 10W30 VR1 with the high volume pump. HV pumps should only be used with appropriate racing bearing clearances, not stock. With the thick oil, HV pump and tight stock clearances, you're putting a lot of stress on the system. Double pinning the gear is an option, but it's treating a symptom, not the cause. Running it as is with a double pinned gear, it'll find the next weak link which will be much more expensive than a $.10 pin. Best solution is to drop the pan and replace the HV with a standard volume pump, but it's not needed if you run thinner oil. The only 351C I sheared a pin on was a tired 4V engine that I put an HV pump in because I had it and was running 20W50,. It broke one very cold winter morning before leaving the driveway.
  19. Wacked together a transmission cradle from some scraps out of the dumpster at work. Only piece I "made" was to cut down a piece of 1" x .156" wall steel tube for the pivot post. Worked perfectly, took maybe ten minutes to remove the transmission rolling around on a creeper.
  20. Yes, it's on the vacuum control switch. Might be as simple as your lever is bent and overtraveling. You can see it on this eBay listing, the black switch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164565454733?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=164565454733&targetid=1263094005266&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003326&poi=&campaignid=11612431353&mkgroupid=121893126363&rlsatarget=pla-1263094005266&abcId=9300456&merchantid=7913044&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMeFBhBwEiwAzwS8zFOauntGGLwWKWcQ3Pwc0-A_d2DjANrVVYlvMZ2UiZfP6FCEfvWuWRoCBAQQAvD_BwE
  21. The AC clutch is engaged with a microswitch on the dash control assembly. If that switch is out of adjustment, it may disengage when you move the lever to MAX. There is also a deicing switch in the same circuit, that's mounted to the AC box and has a sensing bulb in the evaporator.
  22. I rebuilt my hinges with drill rod and oillite bushings from McMaster Carr, probably about $10 in parts at the time and they're still tight eighteen years later.
  23. I'm leaning towards the pan gasket as well. Torque to spec and see what happens. Brake clean and a blow gun will make it all better. I'm one of those crazy guys that torques everything. If it has a torque spec, I follow it. People way smarter than me came up with those specs for a reason, so I'll run with it.
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