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Hemikiller

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Everything posted by Hemikiller

  1. Easy - remove the castle nuts, knock the tie rods out and toss the whole assembly if they are that rusted. We're talking $100 in parts for the best Moog that Rock has to offer. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1971,mustang,5.8l+351cid+v8,1132692,steering,tie+rod+end+adjusting+sleeve,7432
  2. The factory shop manual has the adjustment procedure for the door glass. There are also exploded diagrams of the guide bracket locations and how to adjust them as well. I wouldn't rivet them in, as they need to remain adjustable. You can replace the regulator with the glass installed. You will also want to clean the old grease off the guide tube and channel, and replace the bushings in the guide. They fail after so many years and the window will "chatter" as it moves. https://www.npdlink.com/product/guide-set-front-door-window-upper-and-lower/208059/203185?year=1973
  3. Cleaned up around and under the car in preparation to finally weld in the subframe connectors. Pulled the old headers off and fitted a set of $99 eBay stainless Tri-Y headers to prove to myself that these fit fine with a manual trans 71-73 w/302. Everything bolted up as it should, and the fork is close to the collector. but completely manageable. Next step is to wash and degrease the underside of the car, wire wheel the floor pans and then grind back the POR-15 where I'll be welding.
  4. What Tim said. The backglass is usually not a problem, I have several that have been leaning against the back of my garage for at least a decade. The windshield is one fragile piece, and that's the one that needs to be protected.
  5. The black belts were standard on all 73s except convertible. The Deluxe color keyed belts were standard on the convertible and optional on all other models. If your Marti doesn't show Deluxe Belts as an option, then they should be black.
  6. I added the boots for looks, and to keep anything from falling into the mechanism. The plastic snap-on mechanism shield had to be removed to allow the belt to retract fully. I'm 6'3", so my shoulder sits high enough that the belt may sit too low with the sash. Once I get the 351 swap completed and the car is driveable, I'll make a decision on that. The best part of this swap is not having to unhook the shoulder belt to release the E-brake!
  7. Start with the partial VIN stamp on the back of the block below the driver's side head. If it's the original engine, the stamp should read 3Fxxxxxx, with the "x"es matching your unit number. You can see it with a mirror, or a strategically placed cell phone. The block casting number and date codes are above the starter. A 73 should have a D2AE-CA block. You should also have the 4* marked heads, D3ZE casting 4 barrel intake and some other Q code specific parts.
  8. Above the glove box, shares the breaker for the brake lights.
  9. There's a variety of pulley combinations available that will work. You can get pretty much anything from a 70-73 Mustang with a 302. You can also get them from full size cars, mid size (Torino/Montego) etc. Some 351C and 351W pulleys will work also. The non-AC setup is close to a 1:1 ratio on the water pump, AC cars have a smaller w/p pulley to increase fan speed and coolant flow. I have boxes full of pulleys and can build a correct 73 matched set up for you. I may have a few extra 70-73 302 P/S brackets kicking around, I'd have to look. Shoot me a PM.
  10. Mine came from Seatbelt Solutions, probably the same thing NPD sells. I took them apart again tonight, and spun the anchor/ C bar around, so now the bend faces inward, and it falls naturally behind the retractor. Popped the original mechanism out of the boot, gave it a good cleaning, warmed it with a heat gun and the new retractor popped right in like it belonged there. Put it all back together and they fit and work nicely. The boots that came with the kit for the sash and inner belt are hideous, so I left them off. I may end up eliminating the roof sash extension, as it might fall too low in my shoulder.
  11. My wife bought me a set of three point belts last year. I had fitted them up and had a similar issue as others, with the way the anchor sits, the direction of the male latch piece, and them not retracting fully. I was able to extend the belt fully from the retractor, lock the retractor in place, remove the belt and spin it 180°. I had to slide it through the sash and reverse that as well. Easy peasy - that solved the nesting issue and the latch now faces outward. The anchor plate is now bent towards the door at say a 45° angle. Not a huge issue, it doesn't touch the door, but a flat plate would be better. I may bring them to work and tweak them in the press brake, but I don't want to damage the powdercoat. The belt not retracting fully bothers me, looks like saggy pants. On my retractor, there is a plastic snap-in trim plate. If I remove it, the belt retracts more, but now it's exposed. Current plan is to see if the retractor will fit into the 71 mechanism "boot". Worst case, I'll use the 72-73 molded plastic unit which is much larger.
  12. Considering all the drama surrounding the "shortage" of fuel, I think a thread with pics of people doing dumb things to carry gas should provide some comic relief. I'll start off with one a friend sent me, and another from FB.
  13. The only chrome trim on the standard dash was the center stack, it had a chrome border, and a border around the storage bin/AC ducts. You can see some good pics on the 429 Megasite if you dig around. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/mustang_interior.htm
  14. The majority of the bright trim on the 71-73s is bright dip anodized aluminum. The only stainless IIRC is the grill corral, and chrome was used only on badges and emblems. The quarter and fenders were pre-punched with the holes for the wheel trim, as they are standard Mustang parts, but they weren't available on the Mach 1 of any year. I've seen them added to plenty of them over the years, some people just like the look. IMO, if you have body damage, I'd try to address it before it gets worse, instead of covering it up. A little elbow grease and some touch up paint will help prevent further wear.
  15. You'll need steering box, pitman arm, rag joint, pump, brackets & bolts, water pump and crank pulleys, belts, hoses and Type F ATF. A 50 year old steering box is pretty much guaranteed to leak, so consider getting it rebuilt (or do it yourself) before loosening a bolt, same with the pump.
  16. May be a claim form for a warranty or recall. The 71s had a recall on the strut rod crossmember, where it wasn't welded sufficiently and could separate from the frame rail(s). The solution was to weld the snot out of it. My Mach has some piles of booger weld that clearly were not factory.
  17. Your local auto paint supply house will be able to scan the paint on your car and mix you as much as you need.
  18. No difference in the toque specs. To reiterate, be sure to use the tightening sequence in the shop manual. There are two torque values, as the intake has two bolt sizes.
  19. You can reinstall the backdrive rod from the shift linkage to the column - if it will clear your headers. In the past, I've used a zip tie through the lever on the column to any handy location on the firewall.
  20. Sounds like you're experiencing the classic "engine run on" or "dieseling". It could be a symptom of all the things mentioned - timing, overheating and/or a vacuum leak. You could also have your idle speed set too high, fuel percolating in the bowls, poor quality fuel, too high a heat range plug,or about a dozen other things. I'd start with the carburetor, if that's all you changed. Check for vacuum leaks around the baseplate, make sure all vacuum hoses and plugs are in place and in good shape. Set the idle to factory spec and make sure the timing is where it needs to be. Ford had some interesting ways of reducing emissions in 71, and one involved retarding the timing to require a larger throttle opening to allow more air into the mixture at idle. This caused engine run-on, so they equipped the carburetor with a throttle position solenoid, that would snap the throttle shut when the ignition was switched off. If you aren't able to cure the issue, then the solenoid will definitely help.
  21. The QF and many newer Holleys have actual clear glass sight windows that are not "removable" in the classic sense, and the fuel level is set to the center of the window. The sight window plugs for the classic Holley sight plug that many aftermarket companies offer are for temporary use only.
  22. Those Preval sprayers are great. I did several small components with my base from a Preval and they came out great. I did shoot the clear from the gun. @1sostatic - agree with Don on getting the car scanned. Most good automotive paint supply houses have one on hand and you'll get a much better color match.
  23. That is a nice torque curve. I hear ya on the cost - spent a chunk of change on mine as well. I see you had the same issues as I did, going lean in the 4k range and up. I am running a Holley 750 Street HP and we had 80/88 jets in it. It was getting late and we elected to leave it as-is and I'd do the final tune when it was in the car with a wideband O2, as the exhaust might cause it to richen up. I'll be getting some qulaity time in a month or so playing with air bleeds and PVCR sizes.
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