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Everything posted by zaxwax

  1. I believe it was leonardo Davinci who said that "art is never finished, only abandoned". You clearly take after the master, it's great to watch you constantly evolving your car. Looking forward to seeing your latest iteration.
  2. If I can get rolling early enough tomorrow I will pop in.
  3. I too have a leaking fmx that I would like to convert. Please keep us updated.
  4. Nice car, looks great! Just a tip for all you guys shooting your cars, if you want to avoid the wide angle distortion, back up farther away from your car and zoom in with your lens (assuming you have a zoom lens.) Try to be shooting at greater focal length than 50mm. Also try to get even with the cars level vertically. Don't shoot down or up at your car unless you want that vibe. The 71-73 mustangs especially are difficult to photograph because of their proportions and if you use a wide angle and stay close to the car they will look either very nose heavy or back heavy depending on where you are. Im not trying to diss anyones creativity or photography but if you were wondering why your pictures of your car don't look like your car, that's why. :).
  5. looks very promising. can't wait to see the result.
  6. Dim lights are a common issue on these cars. As John J mentioned the fix a lot of us have done is LEDs, plus replacing the headlight switch. You could replace the voltage regulator that's attached to the back of the cluster while you are there and probably the printed circuit just to be safe. If you wanted to keep it all tungsten, I would make sure you are getting lots of juice to the cluster. Replace the headlight switch, it commonly goes bad and it's a relatively cheap fix. Then, consider putting the headlights on a relay wired directly to the battery so the headlight amperage is not flowing through the headlight switch. If I understand things correctly this will give you about as much juice as you can get going there. You could also test to see if it will help by disconnecting your headlights and seeing if the cluster gets brighter. If it does than get the relay. (also pretty affordable, Jeff73mach1 has the info on which relay.) You could also check the wiring if it's an original harness. Even with all that though, the cars just have dim instrument clusters. LEDs actually look pretty good. I've got white in mine and it's really nice to be able to see everything clearly.
  7. I also would like to know if you recommend any particular brands. I've personally had good luck with the meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish, but only tried it so far by hand. I do have the dual action polisher that comes with the power system kit but have only tried it on small areas. I'm always curious to know what other people are using.
  8. With some hesitancy, I would say that my experience with the classic air auto system we installed last summer in my mach 1 was not all roses. In general it's a well thought out system, but there are definitely some issues. The mount for the compressor especially seems like it could be better thought out. You're not supposed to tilt the compressor past 180 but if you use the mount as it's designed to tension the belt you automatically push it past 180. A simple reversal of the side the hinge is on the mount mount would allow you to tension the belt and keep the compressor below 180. Some of the documentation on the install is inaccurate (or my car had been worked on before and altered). It was all workable, you could clearly see what they had meant after you fiddled with it a bit, it was things like an extra screw not mentioned or in a different place. The biggest issue for me, is while they are responsive with tech support, my system has an odd whine to it, that no one was able to diagnose. I had conversed with tech support about it and sent them a video showing the behavior and tried a couple things they asked me to do and after awhile of going back and forth they just quit responding to me. I am still waiting for a reply, although they had said that if it wasn't the last thing we tried it was going to involve pulling out the system and sending it back to them for further diagnosis and I didn't want to do that. I did have a different independent mechanic friend of mine look it over again and he couldn't figure out what the whine was either. He closed it with. "well it cools doesn't it? you can't fix what ain't broke." It does cool, but the whine makes me nervous so I rarely use the system. The mechanic who helped me install the system was in general impressed with the design and there are definitely clever touches, so I don't want it to seem like I'm down on the system. It does save time and money from building it from scratch, but if I had to do it again, I might go a different way. Certainly a lot of other people have had great experiences with theirs and perhaps my issues were caused by operator error on installation, which would fall on my shoulders.
  9. Thanks guys. That's what I needed. This forum is a great resource. I will check and top it off as soon as it warms up a bit. I started with a pan gasket leak and I've had a couple different mechanics try to seal it/get it to be flat and the pan may be fixed now but the transmission is still leaking. I've got another mechanic I might try. There doesn't seem to be a lot of parts support for FMX transmissions.
  10. Hey guys. I know the information I need is already out there but google searching has brought me conflicting information, so I thought I'd ask the collective wisdom of the board. I have a 1971 mach 351 Cleveland with an FMX transmission. The trans is of course leaking small drips onto the garage floor which 2 mechanics now can't seem to fix and I have resigned myself to living with it The question I have is: What is considered the best procedure for checking the transmission fluid level? Car up to temp and running in Park? Different people seem to say different things. And I'm cringing to ask this in public, but do I add trans fluid to the tube the dipstick comes out of? Please educate me. Thanks guys.
  11. I pulled out the blue diffusers, replaced my headlight switch and swapped out all the bulbs to LEDs and I have great night visibility on my gauges. Jeff73mach1 also has a headlight relay he recommends to take some of the load off the headlight switch. I just use LED headlights.
  12. Not everyone loves the sound of a big V8 engine, so I grant grace when people annoy me in hopes that it is granted back to me. Especially since I also have a ducati with an aftermarket muffler.
  13. I sent you an email. I'm in for one. Glad someone is making them.
  14. I'm really happy with the tach I put in mine to replace the clock and the wiring was very simple. click on tach and then scroll down to mustangs. it looks factory. http://www.rccinnovations.com
  15. I will take that fmx trans pan and I need some other pieces that i don't know what they are called but I think I see them in your picture. I will have to go take a pic of mine... forgive this awful description, but behind my rear seats there's the flat shelf or tray piece that the rear speakers mount in and then on either side of that, the hard pieces there, before the upholstery begins, I need those 2 pieces.. I have a mach 1 so I hope it's for a fastback...
  16. Good for you keeping it period correct. A little extra challenging but extra rewarding too. I believe what midlife does is you pull your existing harness out and send it to him and then he sends it back to you cleaned up and refurbed and whatever else you need on it. He is well respected on the forum for doing this. I imagine he will chime in shortly.
  17. You're probably too far down the road to do this, but I used a modern tach (original face) from Bob at http://www.rccinnovations.com it's $180 if you have the idiot light core still. and it's easy to connect. I think it was power and a wire to my MSD. It works beautifully. It dropped right in. You keep all your existing wiring. Also I had bob convert my center ammeter to a voltmeter. He can refresh your gauges while he's at it. while you're in there, consider redoing the lights with LEDs. Bob is a straight shooter. Nice guy too.
  18. forgive my ignorance but which ones are those?
  19. Thanks guys. I will start poking around. Jeff I think my wife has committed my weekend fully but maybe next weekend. There was a silver Mach 1 today at cars and coffee, was it someone from here?
  20. Hey guys, when i got my 71 mach 1, the previous owner had done a great job with the body and paint and all the panels lined up nicely. Recently I've noticed that the hood on the passenger side, the door on the passenger side and the trunk on the passenger side all have slight changes in alignment to them. The hood on the driver side by the windshield tilts up slightly now. (1/4 inch difference) and the passenger side door by the hinges is now not flush the front wheel fender panel (1/4 inch or so). The hood on the passenger side has a slightly wider gap as does the trunk on the same side. I'm wondering what would have caused all these small shifts. It's not really visible at first glance but you can see if you examine it closely. They've all happened in the last couple weeks or so. I'm wondering if I've bent something in the frame. I haven't installed subframe connectors yet, but I have a set waiting to be welded in. Any thoughts on what might be causing this? thanks
  21. on my car it was kind of tucked under the steering column. It can be hard to see without taking the drivers seat out and laying with your head down by the pedals but it should be down there in that area, kind of near the fuse box.
  22. Not sure if this applies, but if you are using the original L shaped 3 wire connector to plug your new LED flasher (above the glove compartment) into, the polarity on it may be incorrect. On my car, I couldn't get it to work till I swapped the polarity. On the old incandescents it didn't matter which way the current went but the LEDs it does matter. I had to cut my connector and swap the 2 non ground wires. Mine might have been wired backwards from someone trying to fix it awhile ago. I'm not sure how your car will be. There is a hazards flasher under the steering column that you could also swap the flasher with and see if it works under there for hazards. You can check the bulbs simply with some wires and your car battery. I did have to thoroughly wire brush and clean my old light sockets and replace a couple because they were quite corroded and not passing a full 12v
  23. Why would you not recommend stainless? I am currently redoing my brake system and contemplating new lines as well. I'm in the middle of a brake rebuild as well and I got some stainless lines before I found out that they're harder than normal steel and so they don't deform and mate/seal easily. Fortunately mine went on ok and don't leak. For the rears though I just bought the normal steel ones. I did replace the rubber hoses with braided stainless lines from cjponyparts. We only have the front ones in so far but I was surprised that they actually made a tangible difference in brake feel. My hoses might have been pretty old so your mileage my vary. They aren't terribly expensive. I haven't installed it yet but I bought an SSBC short stop kit on amazon for $200. It's got slotted rotors and performance pads and seems well reviewed on other cars. Compared to all the other kits it seems a bargain. The tricky part about new rotors is that on our cars, the rotor doesn't simply unbolt. You have to pull the bearings. So if you're going to change a rotor you might as well do new timkin bearings and a new seal while you're in there. (someone correct me if I'm wrong on this) Something Jeff73mach1 suggested to me as well is the use of speed bleeders on the calipers. They have a valve in them that allows you to bleed the brakes with just one person. I think mine were from russel. They do work quite nicely. They're not expensive. In my limited experience, once you start to mate up new parts with old parts and you break loose some of the things that have been sealed for 40 years, they are impossible to seal back up again. That's how I started out replacing the hoses with stainless braided lines and now have a complete brake system laid out in my garage waiting to be installed. Cjpony parts has most of the stuff although I found the short stop kit was cheaper at amazon. Brakes and suspension are areas that I don't mind spending money on because in the event that you need them it is money well spent and infinitely cheaper than rebuilding a wrecked car or hospital bills. Best of luck with your rebuild.
  24. Good to know. Thanks. Are you referring to the braided steel brake lines that replace the old rubber ones going to the calipers? I just ordered some. What do you recommend?
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