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    1973 mustang coupe


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    tempe az

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  1. The Chinese would screw up noodles if they were exporting them to us. Shock!! Got stock used nuts, restored the threads and removed burrs all the way down to the end on the strut, spun them on. Lesson 1: Not buy Chinese parts. Not buy Chinese parts. Not buy Chinese parts. Lesson 2: FLVAP houses and people are good to work with. Especially good for not having to pay shipping and wait. Lesson 3: FLAPS can suck, a lot. Lesson 4: Shipping cost and wait time sucks. The known unknowns..
  2. Droptop, I thought that was off too. his little pocket tool told him that. I never listen to little pocket tools. He shouldn't either. What they sent with the strutrod went on a half inch before it started to bind. No go. will e, I do not have the coin to drop on a heim, or I would. I expect a little spirited driving is in its future too. It would be best, good enough will have to do. 73429, That's what they are supposed to be. That's what they "say" they sent me from rare parts. Only not. I may wind up having to get it die cut at a machine shop, or have them make me the nuts. One of the benefits of living in the 5th largest city in the country is I can probably find one that can do it if all else fails. It's 10-12 days to get the 11/16 18 ordered from Scott Drake, and with the wonderful strut I bought, I can't be sure they'll fit after I wait up to 2 weeks. I might have got lucky though. One of our 5+ local vintage Mustang guys has several used ones in various sizes I'm going to go try tomorrow morning. Otherwise, I'm headed to this little machine shop. (in business since like 1918 with the largest and most amazing vintage tooling machines you have ever seen.) I'm there if I have to be. I'm not waiting another three days or 10, or 14. It is ready to drive but 'cept for this. Love this car, like working on most of it. Not this part so much, not crappy parts houses so much either. Thanks guys. Luck!
  3. wwhite72, AAA, haha, that's almost funny. Useless, but almost funny. Have I said bite me to anyone this week? Nope been a while longer than that. Bite me, thanks. ;) OMS, they should and they don't. The threads on the new struts are burred up a little bit, so that's not helping, but the problem is otherwise. The locking nut that Rare Parts sold me isn't right for sure, but the adjusting nut from the original strut rod should have gone on without a hitch. It didn't. Anyway, I took the struts and nuts to Copperstate nut and bolt here in town, and what it is is an M18 with 18 pitch, which they don't sell. (1" locking nut, 1 1/8" adjusting nut.) Might post where I find the right nut once I do. So I'll go find the nuts, and be a happy squirrel. Anyone wants to know the source for the correct nuts for someday in the future when it's THEIR problem....I'll tell them to call AAA, or help them. Turns out the experts at Copperstate were off by a bit, since according to Scott Drake, they are 11/16 x 18. I can wait 10 days for so-cal to get them shipped, or find them somewhere else sooner.
  4. I am replacing the right strut rod and bushings on my 73 coupe. It's fun on the left, and went perfectly well. It is a sad story on the right. First: I removed the strut rod nut and the two nuts on the lower control arm. So far, so good. Then I removed the strut rod, replaced the bushings and put the rod back in with the new bushings. I made a brain fart mistake on the right side, and had to remove the nut and change the way they were set up. No sweat. Going back on, the lock and threads stripped. I ordered and received a new strut rod and new locking nut from Rare Parts. I had to remove the adjusting nut from the old strut rod, since the new part didn't come with it, to put it back in the car. It came off with great difficulty. On the bench, in a vise, I start the adjusting nut, and immediately encounter undue resistance. If I keep going, I'm pretty sure I'll cut the threads up, and wind up with another stripped rod, adjusting nut, and/or locking nut. Not thanks!! So, I get the new locking nut, just to see what's up when I thread it onto the new strut rod. It is also producing a good deal (too much, it seems) of resistance. What the Heck? I stopped, and I'm writing this and having a cold one instead right now. (the adjusting nut is a 1 1/8", the locking nut is 1") From what I can tell, the thread count is 18. Can't be certain, can't count that high. That's just what I read when I looked them up. ;) Anyway, should I just bull the SOB on there, put it in, install the bushings, and bull the locker on? (small metal filings be damned?) I don't think so...but what choice do I have? Is that the way these locking nuts work? I can see that if it is, taking it off more than once would not do good things for the threads. Man. I do NOT want another stripped rod. What am I missing?
  5. It is, that's the one that has the wire I was thinking was the right one, and I don't have the IDIOT light blinking at me to remind me of that every few seconds. I worry enough without unnecessary visual inputs. lol
  6. Chuck, looking at that, I think it's probably true that I missed the gear by a tooth or two. That's the same ("smaller") can I went with after rejecting one that was even larger. Thanks for that pic - big help. Steve, I had the oil pump and shaft out, so I'm guessing not doing what you suggest contributed to the misalignment here. Luke, I think I'm good on the pic Chuck posted, so don't make the effort if it is one, I think we got this figured out. Thanks again guys, appreciate ya. No, seriously. I do. LOL
  7. Yep, mine is a 351 2v with the house-sized AC compressor RPM Air intake mani and a 600cfm edelbrock. I stabbed the diz with #1 @ TDC. and the timing gets just close enough to stay running, then I run into the compressor with the back of the vacuum can, so it's not quite right. I am using the Cleveland firing order and wire map, thanks for asking. ;) Won't grind off the back of the vacuum, or the side of the compressor just on principle, so I may opt for flipping the diz 180*, though it will look kind of goofy. I should probably try to stab the diz the right way again, since I had it out once again to re-prime the oil pump after replacing the rope seal RMS. and maybe I messed things up that time. I had sweat in my eyes...yeah that's it, I had sweat in my eyes. We'll see. I'm going back through the torque on all the FE bolts and adjuster cams on the front end to see what I missed when I replaced the lower arms and upper ball joints, sway bar bushings and pins etc., first. After chasing my portable garage and shade canopy around in the wind and repairing things this morning I haven't had time to look at the diz again. Thing runs pretty good really, even with me working on it though. Pics are always helpful, Luke. Anytime you can. Thanks for all your help guys. A lot.
  8. I've had a bad couple of days. Sorry. Bite me, Travis. ;)
  9. Yeah you guys are right. I work on many different cars other than these Mustangs, and I guess I'm kind of spoiled by the size of the communities, and the availability of help I've gotten there. It didn't really occur to me that this is really a pretty small community, compared to VWs, Rat Rods, Volvos etc., I apologize for my impatience and unrealistic expectations. If that means I will never get any help, well, that's on me after my bitchy little rant. My bad. Thanks for whatever help I can get, and I understand why many wouldn't piss on the fire if I was burning after that. Bad day, I guess. Frickin' wheel nearly fell off on a test drive because I forgot to torque it. Idiocy. I do appreciate the warm welcome I got on arrival. Sorry guys. I'm not as much of a d**k as that seemed.
  10. Who thinks this place is of current use? To be clear, I'm glad this site is here, because at least I can search for help with this beast, among the other places I can find help when I need it, but asking current questions produces ZIP all for someone who's not already here. Unimpressed. I'll be selling the Mustang I'm working on, and later the absolutely perfect condition red and white survivor 73 convertible I will be restoring to running and show condition, but belonging to this community? What's the point? Too bad. I'll search here and elsewhere when I need to, but won't post questions or ask for any help, because for whatever reason, there's no immediate and relevant conversation available here unless you're one of the recognizable members, apparently. You can shut down my userID. It's of zero use to even bother. Irrelevant posts don't help. There's no use trying to actually ask questions or talk to anyone. You should see what it's like on other mutual interest car sites... WAY better. This forum? Meh. Thanks for the archives though. I'm out of here. Have fun.
  11. So, it does come off the harness that feeds the coil, right? Mom is sleeping in, today, my daughter won't come outside in the AZ heat, and I haven't gotten around to ground testing it yet. lol
  12. Resurrection post..... That's a great picture for me, because it shows the wire connected to the sensor. In the process of replacing the intake and carb, I lost the tag I had on the wire that connects to it. I seem to remember it having a 90 slip on type connector, but not finding that. So now, I only "think" I know which wire it is. While I wait for some hand-holding, I'll go ground out the wire I think it is and have the wife watch the light. lol As it is now, I have an intermittently blinking temperature idiot light, which at the very least shows me the wire is probably shorting to ground at times as I'm driving around. Unlikely I'm overheating with a new water pump and thermostat. Thanks, anybody!
  13. 1.6257321 inches. LOL I think it's up to you and what you like. Look at pics of stock Machs, Bosses, or Cobras if you want it to look "factory". Otherwise, hang them chrome baloneys out there as far as you want. I wouldn't use downturned slash-cuts, but that's me. 1.6257321 inches. I think it's up to you and what you like. Look at pics of stock Machs, Bosses, or Cobras if you want it to look "factory". Otherwise, hang them chrome baloneys out there as far as you want. I wouldn't use downturned slash-cuts, but that's me. I used something like these, out maybe an inch past the valance. http://www.carid.com/magnaflow-exhaust-systems/magnaflow-single-exhaust-tips-1493804.html
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