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Everything posted by piper62j

  1. Does anyone have, or know where there is an ALUMINIM 2bbl intake manifold for an early 302? I believe the cast iron intake on my GT may be warped and is sucking outside vacuum so I'd like to replace it. Saving weight is a plus too.. Thanks.
  2. I came across a set of E7TE 302 heads that had a valve job done and appear to be in mint condition. Question for you guys. Will they bolt on to a 1968 stock 302? These heads have the factory fulcrum rockers & studs etc. Let me know your thoughts and suggestions.. Thanks
  3. We never had a problem in my shop with scuffing and priming over the "e-coating" sprayed on aftermarket sheet metal. Inspect the panel first for any signs of surface rust, or lifting before you prep it. Any good quality automotive type primer will work, along with a filler primer if needed. Paint as you prefer with a urethane or two part epoxy top coat.
  4. IMHO, yes it will make a slight difference. You may need to adjust the portioning valve to compensate for the additional drag of larger shoes. Test drive first prior to making any adjustments.
  5. Remove the upholstery yourself and take the damaged piece to your local upholstery shop.. A small cut or tear may only cost a case of beer or a few bucks for the repair.. These guys can work wonders with vinyl.. Just think of the fun you'll have putting it back together..
  6. At the top of the home page, look for Mustang Data. Click on it and you will see a link for wiring diagrams.. Click on that link and you will see links for wiring diagrams that pertain to your year, make and model..
  7. I went on line and Googled "how to re chrome plastic" and quiet a few techniques came up from having the parts professionally re chromed (very expensive) to the new paint processes.. I agree with you that the rattle can chrome paints look terrible.
  8. I've seen them come up on EBay from time to time..
  9. I live in Florida and went to Daytona Beach to pick up my windshield.. The company tells you to bring plenty of blankets and will put the windshield in your vehicle and help with placing it correctly on the padding for you. Great prices and very good product. I have not seen any distortion in the glass at all.. Very happy with the price and service.
  10. My suggestion is to post prices on what you have.. Readers can make an offer both are happy with.. IMHO
  11. Before installing new hinges (especially aftermarket) clamp them in a vise and lubricate the rivets and hinge points with oil, not grease.. Springs NOT installed.. Work the hinges up and down until they loosen up and do not bind.. We've done it all the time in the shop from a well learned lesson from the past..
  12. It's probably a carry over of the old Rusty Jones coating from the 70's .. Never seen it before, but if it works, go for it..
  13. The sheet metal on the re-pops is very thin, which allows them to be much lighter.. Also, most re-pops do not get seam sealed at the crimp joints. Should you wish to reinforce the hinge points, (if it were me) I would mig or tig weld a couple of 1/16" steel plates along the inside edge of the ribs that hold the plate nuts for the hinges. That will help a great deal in preventing that fold down buckle.. Make them long enough to exceed the hinge edge by an inch or so.. Grind them smooth, fill where needed and paint.. They won't show and will work wonders to strengthen the hood frame.
  14. The pieces do appear to be chrome plated steel.. Seems odd that Ford would do that vs using polished stainless. That said, perhaps someone with a fold down seat will chime in with what the original trim is.. I'm not sure.. The pieces you have should be sent out to be re-chromed. The rust will be removed with acid dip prior to the chroming process.
  15. You all know the drill.... There's an ass for every seat..
  16. There is a lot of info on the site pertaining to your suggestion... Enter what you are interested in thru the "Search" link.. I do agree that it could be simplified because I've run into the same situation of looking for info. Let's see what the moderators chime in with..
  17. Before spraying with WD40, clean and paint the areas you want that are exposed.. Paint will not stick to oily surfaces.. Rub WD40 or any micro thin oil onto the bare metal surfaces after painting.
  18. Mjlan is spot on... The remaining rods should be inspected for center line variance, crank and pin bore size.. If those two dimensions are within factory specs, go ahead and use them.. The rod bearings also tell a tale.. If any of them are scored or flattened (squashed out), then the engine was used with a heavy foot. Last but not least, find a very good reputable machine shop..
  19. I agree with Hemikiller.. During the manufacturing process, there could have been a mistake in labeling the springs using the same part number, but different tensions in the leafs.. It only takes a short time to pull those leaf strings back out and compare the arc. If the arcs are matching, then there is rear body damage.. The car could have been rear-ended at some point in it's life and has a bent rail.
  20. A cracked piston always leads to a cracked block. Grab the engine and have it checked out anyway, you never know.. If the block is cracked, sell the heads and get your money back.. IMHO
  21. I'm with the "don't fix it if it ain't broke" crowd.. Definitely pull the clutch and inspect it for wear and damage. If there is plenty of material left on the disc, leave it in. Most times, the throwout bearing wears because the clutch pedal was not adjusted properly, or the driver rests a foot on it all the time.
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