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Everything posted by PAPPY HAROLD

  1. :huh: Well I finally did it. I pulled the 466 and tore it down. Machine work done and parts paid for I am starting the rebuild. Not much to it!!!! Eagle forged crank 4.5" stroke Eagle forged H beam rods 6.7" Mahle coated and dished 38cc Mahle rings and bearings Bullit cams custom grind cam. .636 gross lift on both int. exh. separation 114. duration at .050 248. 247. performer intake for clearance of hood recurved dist. to 36 @ 2500 guick fuel sp1050 carb calabrated to my engine specs and TFS power port heads 72cc cnc ported All done 545 cid with a street friendly 10.5 compression And now I pray.
  2. Well its been along time since I was here, but here I am asking questions again. doing an engine makeover on my big block, and has anybody ran a stealth 8012 without hood clearance problems Am taking the oldgirl to a 545 with a quick fuel 1050 and the stealth matches my port size on the head, but Im afraid it might be to tall
  3. NPD has the correct factory color. It is charcoal metallic in laquer. I used it on mine and it was perfect match Part# AP4464
  4. I agree with Boss 351. If you want to blast large volume areas you got to go big. I have a two stage 22cfm compresser that I have had for around 35 years. it will run multiple tools and painting is no problem but to put a blaster big enough to do a whole car keeps it busy, I don't have to stop but the compresser doesn't either.
  5. JUST WANTED TO SAY THANKS. I checked rock auto and saved a lot with the ACC carpet and sound deadner. One more thing off my list. Now to get to the shop and work on finishing the paint prep. THANKS AGAIN...
  6. If you can find it please let me know. I have been facing the same issue, I tried 2 1/2 with a pair of so called low restriction mufflers and the car was so rich I couldn't stand to be in the shop with it. Took them off and it was fine. I'm running 466 with all the trimings and an 850 double pumper, I really don't want to dump it under the body.
  7. When I did mine the first thing you will find is the motor mounts won't fit. Crites performance products, Ashville Ohio has the mounts. Then in my engine, first was the pistons of course, mine came with new flat tops so I left them. I then went with a comp cams big mutha thumper, hyd lifters, roller rockers and ford PI heads edelbrock performer intake and 850 double pumper. Now the cam is maybe alittle over kill, But damn does it sound good. I think the mutha thumper, not BIG mutha thumper would have been sufficient. Next the roller rockers will require longer studs but they are common to find as they are actually chevy studs. Then pushrods had to be changed in length to work proper geometry with rollers, still not a problem from comp cams and reasonable price. now for the heads, I purchased a set of police intersepters at the all ford swap meet in Columbus ohio for 375.00, then took them to a shop and had them magnafluxed and found a hairline crack between 2 chambers, fixed that for 100.00 then brought them home and ported myself. Heres the funny part the reason I stuck my nose in here is that I hooked up with scotty,Alias The mad porter, Alias Reincarnation performance..When it comes to head work and espeacilly 429-460 he is the man. On his site you can join for a one time fee and he will give directions on how to port your heads. Anyhow I don't know what I have yet for sure but it will run ok on pump gas but give it some 100 octane leaded aviation gas and you just smile. Now I just gotta get painted and going, oh and I have had it out on the road a few times and traction is at this point a problem. anyhow you'll love the torq and theres no mistaking the bigblock sound. Wishing you luck. P.s. police intersepter heads are what edelbrock used as a pattern for theres only in aluminum.
  8. http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm These guys calculators have worked well for me.
  9. COMPRESSORS are like trucks,your not going to pull a 6000 lb. trailer with an s10. You have to look at your future plans and what you want to do, and how much. I don't think I would even think of spraying a car with a compressor less than 12 or 14 cfm and that knowing Im going to have to watch how I spray cause I would have to wait on it. and as said check the needs of your tools. I personaly have a 80 gal 24 cfm but I use it constantly. It is never turned off. And also as said tank reserve is a factor
  10. There is a simple way to check for 28 or 31 spline without pulling an axle ,check this site. http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm
  11. I have seen it before. Especially on older original paint, and if you ever notice some newer ones also. (example dodge trk hoods and roofs) Its as tho the pigmet deteriates or even excessive rubbing and buffing over the years. Either way the finish is basically wearing thin.
  12. I have bought from Sherman in the past. Malibu parts but I had no problems with them and the service was good.
  13. I go every yearunless of catastrify. I hope it will be better than spring. It was not near as good as in the past. I'm only about 45 minutes from there so its a no brainer for me.
  14. To me its like drinking coffee, Its all your preference. I personally don't like to do final alignment until I have the car assembled enough to have the weight distributed as it will set when complete. I personaly like to assemble the drive train portion and then edge all the inner parts of the panels, door jams , inside doors, under hood ,etc. etc. Then assemble the body parts and align, then paint the entire exterior. This is espeacialy true with candies, pearls, and high metallics. The masking isnt that difficult, and wheels can be removed along with bumpers tailights and the like.
  15. X2 on the table. It appears you have skill, I would consider bracing the cowl to the 14 post at the top and even an X type brace from qtr post to qtr post. but I bet you already figured that. GOOD LUCK
  16. Many good responses here, but some I can't agree totaly with. In the day of the 70's we would sometimes order what we called factory pack paint, meaning the paint was mixed by the paint manf. Some stores would make slight miss match paint, so when trying to color match a factory pack was better. Overall jobs were no big deal. Also noone has mentioned the painter. I once won a bet that i could get 3 different shades out of the same can of paint. the wetter you spray the darker the color. this is true more for mettalics than solids but still feasible. GM used to teach spot repair in there schools and we would spray a small area so dry you could instantly rub it, we kept adding dry coats for coverage and then use a blending thinner to darken it, When you got the match you quit. This is my 48th year of paint and body work, so I am familiar with the old paint.
  17. IMHO, I don't think you have a major problem.If you feel the rust is concerning enough, try one of the cheap little hand held sand blaster, altho it takes alot of vacuming and cleaning. If not that bad wire brush it, use a nuetrilizing substance to kill the oven cleaner and then a rust preventive and a bead of automotive seam sealer and your ready for paint. DO NOT use latex household cauking as it is acidic and does'nt do well on metal.
  18. I haven't been on for sometime, due to no falt of the site. But tonight I got a chance to visit here and to my suprise I had a reputation boost and a couple awards. Man you guys know how to make a guy feel bad for being AWOL. But from the bottom of my heart I thank You all!!!!! This site has been a great help over the last few years and I only hope I have contributed something worth while.
  19. I have a oil thing that bugs me. When the engine was built evry bearing was checked to keep 2 to 3 thousands clearence, now when I start it it has 65 to 70 psi pressure, but within about 5 minutes it drops to 45, if I hit the gas it jumps right back up. So do you guys think I have a problem or just the wrong oil? currently running 20-40
  20. cazsper: Heck yes nothing wrong with MSD. Just cz was wooried about hieght and I and others offered our best info.
  21. I did not mean to P in your Wheaties.. But your in fla. and I'm in Ohio, all I have to go by is your pics. And the area I was talking about is clear to the ouside of the taillight hole. It appears to get closer to the opening the farther it goes. Now you have to understand I'm no expert I'm only 63 and started doing this stuff when I was 15 ,with yrs with GM, a little with Ford and even RollsRoice as an authorized warranty tech. But I'm sure you are going to figure it out, get r done my friend.. Just remember once they have been hit there are no rules and no right parts you have to make everything work as a unit
  22. Take a look at a ford Duraspark, it gives the best of both worlds--low profile and electronic. I'm running a recurved duraspark and altho the car hasn't had alot of miles yet it is working great, and if you need to recurve it , its simple to do. MANY OF THE fORD RACING GUYS ARE USING THEM
  23. In my humble opinionyou have multiple problems. 1. whenever the top section of the qtr was sectioned it appears to have been misaligned. If you look at the area above the taillight, it sags low in the seam where the taillight panel joins the filler panel, this would affect the height of the top of your qtr panel 2. when the new qtr was installed the one pic shows me that there isn't enough curve to the outside skin. all these little factors will change the overall fitment. I don't think you'll find and qtr extention that will fit as you wish. I read where one person said heat and shape. might wanna check the type of metal first. Good luck
  25. For your original question on what grit, I persoanaly prefer #80 grit on a DA sander and then #180 after that. This will give you a suffiecently smooth surface for your primer. You will probably find some spots of surface rust that will require more aggressive removal then back to the #80 and #180
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