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naa10104

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    1973 Convertible, matching #'s H Code, Auto

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    Reston, VA

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  1. Hello, Have two Mustang mirrors, not sure of the exact model year. The first one appears to be lightly used, some very minor pitting in the chrome on the back of mirror. Part # on this one is D1ZB-17743-AA. The second one pictured is brand new with no Ford part #, a re-pop I believe. Please make me an offer. Thanks steve
  2. Hello, Sorry for the lateness in this response .... very busy of late. Yes, it has been resolved and long story short it was 90% wheel balance and 10% Pittman arm. Keep in mind I have had the wheels balanced at least 3 times by reputable garages with modern equipment. I took the Mustang to a smaller garage owned by the mechanic who has been wrenching on cars for many years and does a fair amount of work on drag cars and muscle cars. He currently races a 41 Willy's dragster. He took my car for a test drive and immediately said, " pretty sure it is wheel or tire related, probably wheel balance. My Mustang has brand new Cooper Cobra's, which by the way are excellent tires and much more reasonbly priced than Radial TA's. Also have Magnum 500 wheels, the right front is brand new as the one it replaced had a wobble in it. Magnum 500's are great looking wheels but are also two piece and as such are more prone to wobble and balance issues. I have seen this on other sites and heard the same issues from other owners. I ordered a new Magnum 500 from Jegs and when it showed up they checked it for balance without a tire and told me to return it as it was out of round. I then ordered one from Coker which they spun before they shipped it to make sure it was okay, It was. There are several manufacturers that produce Magnum 500's ... the two bought were made by Vintiques and the second is Specialty Wheel. When the mechanic put my car on the lift he checked all the front end components and found that they were all fine and that the alignmnent looked good, he did comment that the Pittman arm had a little play and should probably be replaced, not a safety issue, but would tighten up the steering al little. He still thought the balance was the main issue. He then commented that some of my wheels had excessive amounts of wheels weights stuck onto the inside of the rims. NO weights were installed on the outside of the rim. He advised that generally speaking you can not get a good wheel balance without placing weights on the outside of the rim. He understood why owners don't want to do this as they want there nice rims to look clean and free of weights but that contributes to poor wheel balance. He adivsed that if you don't place weights on the outside of the rim you are really only balancing half of the wheel. This is magnified especially on two piece wheels since there can be variances between the two pieces of the wheel. He re-balanced all wheels and tires, placing the correct weights on the outside of the wheels and we went for a test drive. I could immediately feel an improvement sitting in the passenger seat and he did also while driving. I would say the overall improvement to the vibration problem was app. 80-90 % I did have the Pittman arm replaced which tightened up the steering and made the handling feel a little better. In my case I am certain that the problem all along was wheel balance. If you get two piece wheels or mroe specifically Magnum 500's I would recommend doing some research to see which manyfacturer makes the best quality wheel and get them checked before they ship. Coker was very good about this at no extra charge. There you have it, something as simplet as wheel balance. Hopes this helps ! and thanks for all the input on this and other issues I have posted .... this is truly an amazing site !!!
  3. PS, I guess the only way to rule out the fuel pump would be to remove and inspect or just replace ? Thanks
  4. The fuel cap is NOS, but I'll check the gasket. Filler hose and tank grommet are new. Vent line to carbon canister is newer. Fuel lines from tank to carb I'll have to look at next time I have the car up in the air, but no evidence of gas on the garage floor. I'll check the vent lines also, but again no sign of any leaks. Thanks for your input.
  5. Hello, Checked all the plugs, they all look identical, dry and Brn/Gry in color. RE gapped to .35. PCV valve is functioning and all vacumn lines look fine. Checked choke while restarting today. Temp was app. 70 degrees, when gas pushed to floor choke plate closed to app. a 3/8" opening then rapidly opened as enging warmed, seemed fine. YOur thoughts ? Thanks
  6. I have pulled two plugs and they both look fine and the same. Dry sort of a brn/gry. I'll check them all and regap to .32. Trying to find the correct torque specs to reinstall.
  7. Ok ....will do .... I'll post what I find. If they are burning correctly they shoudl be brown/tan ? If that is what I see I guess I can reinstall them. If the carb is running rich or have a bad plug would I see black carbon appearance ? What would you recommend for a gap on my plugs ? Stock motor with dual exhaust. Thanks
  8. Hello, Will have to pull a few spark plugs and see what they look like .... should I pull them all initially or maybe one from each side ? If I go out at anytime and smell the oil I smell a light odor of fuel in it. All the vacumn lines and PCV valve are correctly attached and operational. Thanks
  9. Hello, Have checked many of the above items. Car runs well and performs well. No running on when shut off and no pinging. Choke operates properly and opens all the way when warmed up. Did have the carb professionally rebuilt a few years ago to stock set up. My reason for this post is that when I drive it and shut it off there is an odor of gas not overwhelming but more than I think should be present same when idling. Also, I change the oil every Fall .... if I smell the dipstick there is a faint odor of gas. Am running a Pertronix system in distributor with a hotter coil. The sparkplugs are original to the car when I purchased five years ago. I have never changed them and they have app. 3K miles on them. Should they be replaced and any recomendations ? Plug wires have been replaced in last couple of years. Otherwise the engine runs well and performs well. Thankš
  10. Thanks very much for the info. ... appreciate it ! Steve
  11. This would fit but you would have huge port miss match. This is made to fit the larger ports in 4-V head. The air would exit the intake and run into a step because your heads have much smaller ports. Edelbrock does make the Performer 4-V to 2-V head with smaller ports. Here is link to the non EGR model they also have an EGR model. https://www.cjponyparts.com/351c-2v-edel-perf-intake-non-egr-for-a-4bblcarb/p/EDL2750/?msclkid=3b5a2d2d79741e48807473a992e85993&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Dynamic%20Search&utm_term=%2Fp%2F&utm_content=Dynamic%20Search%20Ads Look around some place ad on Craigslist I picked one up used for $35.00. $332.95 is new price.
  12. Hello, Thanks for all the comments. It is not perfect, but a well sorted out, as you said driver. Take care. steve
  13. https://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/d/ashburn-1973-ford-mustang/7096259439.html This vehicle is located in Ashburn, VA Happy to answer any questions ... thanks Steve
  14. Hello, Would this fit on a 73 351 c H code engine that came from factory with 2barrel carb ? Looking to upgrade to a 4 barrel. Thanks Steve
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