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naa10104

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Everything posted by naa10104

  1. Hello, Sorry for the lateness in this response .... very busy of late. Yes, it has been resolved and long story short it was 90% wheel balance and 10% Pittman arm. Keep in mind I have had the wheels balanced at least 3 times by reputable garages with modern equipment. I took the Mustang to a smaller garage owned by the mechanic who has been wrenching on cars for many years and does a fair amount of work on drag cars and muscle cars. He currently races a 41 Willy's dragster. He took my car for a test drive and immediately said, " pretty sure it is wheel or tire related, probabl
  2. PS, I guess the only way to rule out the fuel pump would be to remove and inspect or just replace ? Thanks
  3. The fuel cap is NOS, but I'll check the gasket. Filler hose and tank grommet are new. Vent line to carbon canister is newer. Fuel lines from tank to carb I'll have to look at next time I have the car up in the air, but no evidence of gas on the garage floor. I'll check the vent lines also, but again no sign of any leaks. Thanks for your input.
  4. Hello, Checked all the plugs, they all look identical, dry and Brn/Gry in color. RE gapped to .35. PCV valve is functioning and all vacumn lines look fine. Checked choke while restarting today. Temp was app. 70 degrees, when gas pushed to floor choke plate closed to app. a 3/8" opening then rapidly opened as enging warmed, seemed fine. YOur thoughts ? Thanks
  5. I have pulled two plugs and they both look fine and the same. Dry sort of a brn/gry. I'll check them all and regap to .32. Trying to find the correct torque specs to reinstall.
  6. Ok ....will do .... I'll post what I find. If they are burning correctly they shoudl be brown/tan ? If that is what I see I guess I can reinstall them. If the carb is running rich or have a bad plug would I see black carbon appearance ? What would you recommend for a gap on my plugs ? Stock motor with dual exhaust. Thanks
  7. Hello, Will have to pull a few spark plugs and see what they look like .... should I pull them all initially or maybe one from each side ? If I go out at anytime and smell the oil I smell a light odor of fuel in it. All the vacumn lines and PCV valve are correctly attached and operational. Thanks
  8. Hello, Have checked many of the above items. Car runs well and performs well. No running on when shut off and no pinging. Choke operates properly and opens all the way when warmed up. Did have the carb professionally rebuilt a few years ago to stock set up. My reason for this post is that when I drive it and shut it off there is an odor of gas not overwhelming but more than I think should be present same when idling. Also, I change the oil every Fall .... if I smell the dipstick there is a faint odor of gas. Am running a Pertronix system in distributor with a hotter coil. The
  9. Thanks very much for the info. ... appreciate it ! Steve
  10. This would fit but you would have huge port miss match. This is made to fit the larger ports in 4-V head. The air would exit the intake and run into a step because your heads have much smaller ports. Edelbrock does make the Performer 4-V to 2-V head with smaller ports. Here is link to the non EGR model they also have an EGR model. https://www.cjponyparts.com/351c-2v-edel-perf-intake-non-egr-for-a-4bblcarb/p/EDL2750/?msclkid=3b5a2d2d79741e48807473a992e85993&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Dynamic%20Search&utm_term=%2Fp%2F&utm_content=Dynamic%20Search%20
  11. Hello, Thanks for all the comments. It is not perfect, but a well sorted out, as you said driver. Take care. steve
  12. https://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/d/ashburn-1973-ford-mustang/7096259439.html This vehicle is located in Ashburn, VA Happy to answer any questions ... thanks Steve
  13. Hello, Would this fit on a 73 351 c H code engine that came from factory with 2barrel carb ? Looking to upgrade to a 4 barrel. Thanks Steve
  14. Hello, looking for four barrel carburetor and intake that would fit on a 73 351 Cleveland H code motor currently has two barrel carb. Either original Ford equipment or aftermarket is fine. Thanks
  15. Hello, what I am feeling is definitely not normal. It really does feel like something in the front wheels it’s sort of a shake or oscillation....is still more back-and-forth. It really does feel like tire balance but I’ve had them balanced. I checked the rag joint today and I think it’s fine. If you turn the wheel very hard left or right the metal pins do hit the metal part of the steering linkage but very little play and I don’t think that’s it. Any opinion on what the magnum 500 wheels should be torque to ...the Lugnuts I mean. I may have to try to find a very highly recommended garage and s
  16. Hello, Just catching up on these most recent posts. When I last had the Magnum 500 wheels balanced I told the tech that they had to be balanced "lug centrically" He used an adapter that attached thru the 5 lug holes. Was this the correct way to balance ? I will look at my lug holes over the next few weeks and see if they have worn in an elliptical fashion. Also double check the torque, beleive they are torqued to 80 lbs. Am also going to check the steering coupler/rag joint for excessive play, believe it to be original to the car. Having trouble finding a reputable shop that
  17. Hi, Thanks for your info. I don't think a video would capture the vibration but I will drive later today and see if I can do that. THanks Steve If you have a go pro or a small video camera you can mount under the car you might see something. The front suspension on a Mustang is scary to watch on a video under the car shows how weak it really is. Hello, Drove it today with the top up made no difference at all. The cyclic vibration is definitely in the steering wheel only, not felt anywhere else. Not in the body, seat or pedals. It comes on then fades away as slow as 20
  18. Hi, Thanks for your info. I don't think a video would capture the vibration but I will drive later today and see if I can do that. THanks Steve
  19. THanks for all the info. All front end parts were replaced 4 years ago, the stiffening plate under the car is present, I installed new leaf springs a year ago, just stock replacements. The shocks are KYB, gas/hydraulic standard fit for my car. No sub frame connectors and everything else is stock.
  20. THanks for all the info. All front end parts were replaced 4 years ago, the stiffening plate under the car is present, I installed new leaf springs a year ago, just stock replacements. The shocks are KYB, gas/hydraulic standard fit for my car.
  21. Hello, had to step away from this for a while. Everything is back together correctly, new races, bearings, calipers, brakes bled. The brakes feel better then they ever have. Still have the vibration .... did some more research and found alot of information on Cowl Shake in convertible Mustangs. I will drive the car with the top up and locked in tommorow to see if there is any difference. I have included photos of my ynder hood area showing the stock bracing from fire wall to shock towers. That all seemed tight although might put a torque wrench on it tommorow for good measure. Of intere
  22. Hello, Can anyone advise the correct size/length of the two bolts on each side of the car that attach the bottom of the pressed metal plate to the caliper and steering knuckle ? Don't know what it is called but the brake line goes thru an opening in the bottom. Just discovered that who ever did last brake job did not install them .
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